^yc'^^^-i-ir?  r 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


ROUND  THE  WORLD 
IN  SILENCE 

BY 

ANNABELLE  KENT 


GRKAVES  PUBLISHING  COMPANY 

iNEW  YORK  CI  lY 
M  C  M  X  I 


Copyright  1911 

By 

ANNABELLE  KENT 


YORK    PHINTING    COMPANY 
YORK,     PA. 


Preface 

BOOKS  of  tra\el  are  Ici^'ion  now-a-days.  and  one 
has  l)ut  to  turn  to  the  sheh'es  of  lil)rary  or  l)ook- 
store  to  obtain  information  on  every  hind  and 
sea  under  the  sun.  Mv  excuse  for  adchng'  to  this  col- 
lection is  that  1  hope  to  offer  somethint;'  that  will  in- 
terest the  sta\'-at-honies,  revive  pleasant  memories  in 
the  s^iol)e-trotter,  and  t^ive  to  both  the  noxelty  of 
bein<4"  taken  around  a  soundless  world. 

A  deaf  young'  lady  made  the  remark  to  me  once  that 
it  was  a  waste  of  time  and  money  for  a  deaf  person  to 
i4"o  to  Europe,  as  she  could  g'et  so  little  benefit  from  the 
tri]).  ]  told  her  that  as  loni;'  as  one  could  see  there 
was  a  <4'reat  deal  one  could  absorb  and  enjoy.  Then, 
when  the  time  and  ()i)])ortunity  came  for  me  to  take  a 
tour  around  the  world,  there  ha])pened  to  be  a  }-ouni;' 
man  in  the  ])art\'  who  was  totallv  blind.  1  was  full  of 
s}-m])ath_\'  for  him.  but  he,  instead  of  feelint^"  ret^'ret, 
thon.ght  the  sym])athy  should  be  bestowed  on  me, 
since  I  was  deaf  instead  of  blind.  Cheerfulness  is  a 
Hue  trait,  but  I  could  not  bear  to  think  of  .q'oing"  to 
India  and  then  not  beiniL^'  able  to  see  the  i^lories  of  the 
Taj  or  the  ])athetic  beauty  of  the  Residencw  —  i.uck- 
now's  memento  of  the  .Mutiuw  h'eeling- that  1  was  full\- 
re])aid  lor  the  months  ol  strenuous  life.  I  ha\e  been 
mo\ed  to  rewrite  and  jjublish  the  letters  I  sent  home 
telling'  of  my  ex])eriences  on  the  tour  as  I  would  like 
to  slmw  others,  as  well  as  m  \-  deaf  bretlircu  and  sisters. 

(3) 


4  I'REFACF. 

Iiow  much  pleasure  and  profit  one  can  s^et  through 
tra\el  not  only  in  Euro])e  but  tlic  Orient.  I  am  not 
merely  hard  of  hearint;",  but  entirely  deaf.  Part  of  the 
time  I  was  with  friends  of  long  standing.  ])art  of  the 
time  with  almost  entire  strangers;  and  even  amid  the 
stress  of  travel  the\-  were  always  kind  and  ])atient  with 
me.  If  they  should  chance  to  read  these  ])ages,  J 
would  like  them  to  know  how  much  I  thank  them  all. 


Round  the  World  in  Silence 


( )n   Hoard  llic   I'riiicess   Irene. 


inisDand  is  sucn  a  nne  leiiow.  and  i)iuuiie  is  me  sweet- 
est, most  enL;'a,L;in!4-  tliree-}ear-ol(l  that  I  e\er  saw. 

Did  \()ti  e\er  know  I  wanted  to  j^o  round  the  worhl? 
J  (h<hi't  know  it  myself  till  Molly  told  me  she  was 
biiildini^'  stich  a  eastle  in  S])ain.  A  year  ai;"o  1  ne\er 
dreamed  of  such  a  tliini;':  and  it  is  wonderful  how  it 
came  about.  .Moll\-  came  o\er  from  Xew  lla\en  one 
day  last  s])riniL;'  and  '])hone(l  me  to  meet  her  in  W'ana- 
maker's.  We  had  a  tine  da\',  ])retendin<4'  we  were 
school  L^irls  a^ain.  W'liile  we  were  al  luncheon  she 
told   me  that   her  husband  and  she   were  talking-  about 


her  t(  I  be  sure  and 
\<  ir   I    wanted  to  be 


told   me  that   her  husband  and 
■■  .l^oin;;-  around  the  world".      I   told 
let  me  know  if  it  came  to  a  realilw 
one  oi  the  ])arty.      That  was  in  May:  in  .\uL;u>t.   I   wa- 
in  Troy.   \i-<itin^    Ivlith,   when  one  da\-    I    \\a^  thunder 

(5) 


ROLWD  Till'.  WORLD   I X  SIL]-:.\CK 


struck  lo  receive  a  letter  from  Molly's  husband,  sayint^- 
that  if  1  had  really  decided  to  take  the  trip  1  was  to 
telej^raph  at  once  to  a  man  in  Xew  \nvk  who  was  to 
reserve  a  berth  for  me  on  the  Isis.  from  llrindisi  to 
I'ort  vSaid.  and  on  the  China,  from  Tort  Said  to  Co- 
lombo, Ce_\-lon,  until  he  could  hear  from  me;  then  the 
sailing-  date  from  Xew  ^'ork  could  be  decided  later. 
It  was  necessarv  to  secure  ])assa!^e  on  these  two  steam- 
ers at  once,  as  the  lists  were  made  u])  in  London.  I 
did  not  see  how  I  could  i^'o.  If  1  had  had  a  little  time 
to  consider  the  ])ros  and  cons  I  was  sure  1  could  do  it. 
])Ut  there  was  no  time,  and  1  could  not  \enture  to  say 
■■yes"  without  time  to  see  if  all  m\-  alLiirs  could  be 
arrauL^'ed.  Thouj^h  1  was  deeijh'  disa])])ointed.  J  felt 
that  I  must  i^ix'e  it  uj).  and  wrote  to  Mr.  I'.rown  to  that 
effect,  'idirce  weeks  later,  at  home,  when  1  had  nearly 
foro'otten  all  about  it,  the  i)ostman  brouiiht  me  another 
letter  from  ]\lr.  I'.rown.  sayini^"  he  had  just  learned  that. 
throu_<;ii  a  mistake  made  at  the  Xew  \'ork  office.  I  was 
booked  tliroui^ii  to  Ce\lon.  and  as  we  did  not  sail  f' ir 
four  weeks.  I  would  ha\e  time  l<>  make  arrangements 
to  <^t).      I  I  urr\-  I 

I  am  on  Ixnird  the  I'rincess  Irene,  myself,  but  how 
man\-  thin^^s  necessary  to  mv  existence  sta\ed  at  home. 
I  ha\e  yet  to  learn. 

I'M]-  com  tort  there  is  nothinii'  like  the  C.erman  steam- 
ers. I'Xerytliinc^-  is  kv]){  >])otlessly  clean.  The  serxdce 
is  laultless.  and  the  dinner>  are  works  of  art.  Tluw 
learned  at  once  that  1  cannot  hear,  and  so.  e\  er\-  time 
the  meals  are  ready,  the  stewardess  or  steward  comes 
t'>  my  stateroom  to  call  mc-.  And  m\  stateroom  is 
mo-^i  Cduxeniently  arranged.  I  ha\e  two  lariat-  ward- 
ri  ibr,^  and   ])lenty   ni  draw  rr--. 


ROl'XD  THF.  WORLD   IX  STLHXCK  7 

On  Saturday  niornint^',  we  came  in  sight  of  the 
largest  of  tlie  Azore  Ishmds  and  passed  ((uite  close  to 
Ponta  Delgada.  the  Cai)it()l.  It  was  raining  when  I 
came  on  deck,  and  the  huge  brown  rocks  and  soft 
green  slopes  ^\■ere  \eiled  h}-  a  mist  of  rain.  lUit  as  the 
Irene  drew  near  the  citw  the  sun  shone  out  gioriouslw 


•I'll  I'.     KOCK    Ol"    CI  URAI.TAR 


All  the  buildings  on  the  island,  e\en  the  fences,  were 
a  brilliant  white.  The  city  itselt  was  crowned  l)v  a 
bright  rose-i)ink  clock  tower.  All  the  mummies  in  the 
deck  chairs  sudclenl}-  came  to  life,  and  there  was  high 
excitement  on  board  during  the  two  hours  while  we 
were  ])assing  the  island.  Mead  winds  ha\e  fought  us 
all    the    wa\-.    and    it    has    been    \  er\-    wet.      .M  \-    room- 


8  ROUND  THE  WORLD  IX  SILKXCK 

mate  says  it  is  roui^h.  but  this  is  licr  first  \-()yai^"e. 
When  1  remember  our  crossings  of  the  Xorth  Atlantic, 
it  seems  to  me  that  there  is  just  enouj^h  motion  to 
o-jve  zest.  For  me  it  has  been  drifting;'  from  one  o|)al 
(lay  to  another. 

What  a  wonderful  day  this  has  been  I  We  were 
called  before  daxlii^iit.  —  and  there  we  were  at  (jib- 
raltar.  As  I  dressed,  the  li.^ht  became  strdu^er  and  1 
could  see  the  hut^e,  gloomy  rock,  it's  top  hidden  in 
clouds.  Daylight  came  \ery  ([uickly  and  showed  us  a 
glorious  ])anorama  of  mountain  and  sea:  a  white  glim- 
mer of  a  distant  African  city  at  the  foot  of  grey  hills; 
a  glittering  bay.  crowded  with  warships,  ocean  steam- 
ers, steam  launches,  and  rowboats. 

'J'he  tender  started  for  the  shore  at  ten  o'clock,  and 
we  were  all  on  board  ;  dear  little  iUiddie  as  excited  as 
any  of  us.  On  the  dock  all  of  us  five  women  and 
]>uddie  scjueezed  into  one  of  the  odd  little  carriages  in 
waiting,  while  Air.  llrown  \vent  off  on  foot  to  find  the 
cable  office.  A\  hat  a  ride  we  had  through  the  ([uaint 
narrow  streets,  crowded  Avith  a  motlev  throng  of 
Arabs,  in  fiowing  white  robes:  English  soldiers:  ])ed- 
dlers.  with  baskets  of  fruit  and  flowers:  and  ])atient 
little  donkeys,  loaded  down  with  huge  panniers  of 
vegetables,  fruit  and  charcoal.  The  tall  houses  were 
painted  bright  ])urple  or  \ellow.  Dark-eved  beauties 
laughed  down  at  us  from  flower-decked  l)a]conies. 
They  looked  ]n"ett\'  at  a  distance:  but  a  closer  ac- 
(puiintance  showed  them  to  be  so  ])owdere(l  as  to  be 
almost  ghastly.  \i\cu  the  little  girls  looked  as  if  ihey 
had  been  white-washed.  The  streets  were  almost  as 
slee])  as  the  side  of  a  house.  MolK'  and  1  iumi)ed  out 
oi    the   carriage   an<l    followed    il    on    toot.      I"])   and    u]) 


o 


ROUXD  THE  WORLD  IX  SlLKN'CR  9 

we  panted,  until  the  driver  stopped  at  the  entranee  of 
the  fortitications.  11  ere  we  ret^istered  and  ])roeeeded 
on  foot,  with  a  tall  soldier  for  our  i^uide.  'J'hen  up- 
ward ai^ain.  along-  a  path  nicked  out  of  the  side  of  the 
mountain.  We  could  see  nothint^'  over  the  sides  of  the 
ravine,  so  we  plodded  ])atiently  alonj^"  until  we  came 
to  the  first  of  the  galleries  which  honeycomb  the  rock. 
Our  guide  lifted  lUuldie  to  his  shoulder  and  we  groped 
ur  way  along.  stop])ing"  occasionally  as  we  came  to 
an  oi)ening"  throtigh  which  big  gtins  thrust  incpiisitive 
noses.  si)ying  across  the  glittering  water  for  some 
sneaking  enemy.  The  huge  steamers,  far  below, 
looked  like  toys  :  yet  we  found  afterwards  that  we  had 
not  gone  anywhere  near  the  top  of  the  rock.  After  we 
had  gone  through  some  half  dozen  of  these  dark  galler- 
ies, the  gtiide  turned  and  took  us  l)ack  to  where  we  had 
left  the  carriage.  lUiddie.  riding  ha])])ily  on  the  guide's 
shoulder,  made  love  to  the  man.  patting  his  cheek,  and 
])utting  his  arms  around  his  neck,  blarneying  him. — 
■'  \'ou  dear  soldier!"  A\'hen  we  came  to  smooth 
ground  again,  lUiddie  was  ])laced  on  his  feet;  where- 
u])()n  that  young  gentleman  remarked.  "  Xow  we  men 
will  walk  together  !  "' 

Then  came  a  drive  through  a  lo\elv  ])ark.  where 
huge  oleander  trees,  thick  with  blossoms,  cacti.  ])e])per. 
banana,  and  ])ine  trees  mingled  with  tall  geranitnns 
and  flowering  shrubs  in  a  luxuriant  tangle.  Later,  on 
the  Xeutral  (jround,  where  vS])anish  ca\alr\-,  re- 
splendent in  black  and  vellow.  mounted  guard  on  the 
entrance  to  the  land  of  the  young  king,  we  found  Mr. 
Lrown  in  a  carriage,  returning  from  Liuuea,  the 
S])anisli  town  on  the  other  side  of  the  Xeutral  dround. 
The  cust<ims  officers  had   searched   him.  —  fun   for  the 


10  ROUXD  THE  WORLD  IX  SILEXCl^ 

rest  of  us!  As  we  were  somewliat  cramped  in  our 
wee  carriage,  Buddie  was  handed  out  to  his  father. 
We  had  only  two  hours  on  land,  and  came  near  getting 
left.  I)ri\-ing  along',  so  interested  in  the  no\'el  sights 
that  we  had  almost  forgotten  the  Irene,  we  happened 
to  see  a  clock.  It  lacked  only  five  minutes  to  ten,  tlic 
time  when  the  tender  was  to  leave.  We  whii)])ed  up 
our  horse,  and  as  we  Hew  along  we  caught  sight  of 
Mr.  r)rown,  who  had  also  taken  alarm,  lie  had  left 
his  carriage  somewhere,  and,  with  Ikuldie  tucked  un- 
der his  arm  like  a  bundle,  was  running  for  all  he  was 
worth.  Luck  was  with  us,  for  our  tender  was  still  at 
the  wharf.  The  gang  plank  had  been  taken  up,  but 
the  space  was  not  too  wide  for  us  to  jump. 


ROL'XD  THE  WORLD   I X  SIL1<.XC1'. 


11 


11 


Tlie  Princess    Irene. 


Ol'R  sail  on  the  Mediterranean  was  encliantint;- ! 
The  water  was  smooth  as  s^lass  and  a  heantiful 
l)lue.  One  nii^ht  we  had  a  grand  l)all  on  board. 
I<\)r  l)all  room  we  had  the  llag-draped  deck  with  its 
red  and  white  lights.  The  deck  was  sprinkled  with 
what  e\er\-  one  vowed  was  II.  ().  'Jdie  band  tuned 
up  ;  but  alas  1  the  ball  did  not  ])roceed.  'JTie  girls  were 
readv.  but  all  the  men  had  been  seized  with  stage 
fright,  and  had  betaken  themseh'es  into  remote  boiler 
rooms  and  other  such  masculine  retreats.  The  ship's 
officers  were  still  left  us.  and  they  would  ha\e  made 
the  swellest  kind  oi  ])artners.  but  —  the  rules  did  not 
])ermit  them  to  dance.  Well,  at  ten  o'clock  the  Cap- 
tain ordered  lights  out.  and  the  l)all  came  to  a  melan- 
choly end. 

h'riday  exening: — 'Idie  "  Ca])tain"s  Dinner"  is  just 
o\er.  and  to-morrow  we  shall  be  in  Xaples.  That 
dinner  made  u])  for  the  ball.  The\'  hung  the  dining- 
saloon  with  t1ags  and  banners,  dra])ed  the  ])illars  with 
bunting,  and  put  tlie  waiters  into  white  waistcoats. 
I'.ach  one  ol  us  had  a  sou\enir  in  the  shajjc  of  a  hat 
ribbon.  When  lime  lor  dessert  came,  and  we  were 
making  gay  with  ])a])er  caps,  and  swa])])ing  mottoes, 
the  lig]u>  went  out,  and  little  red  and  white  lights 
liaslu'd  u])  on  iIk-  miniatui'e  lighthouses  whiidi  ser\ed 
as  ceiUei^piece--.  Then,  in  the  >emi-dark-ness.  entered 
a    bi-illiant    i)rocc--,i(  m.      All    the    waiti'r^    and    stewards 


12  ROUXD  THE  WORLD  IX  SILFA'CK 

filed  in.  waiters  and  stewards  alternately.  Each  waiter 
carried  a  tray,  bearing-  a  \i\r<^Q  hollow  block  of  ice  with 
a  lit^iit  inside;  around  this  was  the  ice  cream,  molded 
into  little  seated  fii^'ures  holding;-  tiny  ja])anese  para- 
sols. Each  steward  carried  a  lari^e  ja])anese  lantern. 
The  i;a\-  ])rocession  circled  all  the  tables  and  then 
])asse(l  out.  .\tter  that  we  had  our  ice  cream,  and  each 
lady  was  L;iven  a  ])arasol  and  a  flat;'. 

Sunday: — ilere  we  are  in  the  liay  of  Xa])les.  Yes- 
terday the\'  woke  me  before  daylit^ht  to  look  out  at 
\'esu\ius.  The  sihery  i^rey-blue  water  was  banked 
l)y  dark  blue  mountains,  and  behind  the  mountains 
the  sky  glowed  red. 

Did  you  know  they  ha\e  strikes  in  Italy?  They  do. 
As  we  were  about  to  go  ashore  this  morning'.  \ve  heard 
that  it  was  uncertain  when  the  Irene  would  ])roceed 
to  (icnoa,  because  there  was  a  strike  amoni^'  the  deck 
hands,  and  the  cari^o  could  not  be  unloaded.  After 
waiting,'  around  for  an  hour  we  decided  to  land,  for  a 
while  at  least. 

There  ^vas  a  large  ])art}'  of  us.  and  we  engaged  a 
guicle.  —  one  who  \vas  ^•erv  ])roud  of  his  I{ngiish. 
After  we  had  looked  into  the  A(|uarium  and  a  few 
sho])s.  we  turned  toward  l'om])eii  to  s])en(l  the  rest  of 
the  (lav  there.  We  \\ere  all  crowded  into  oue  wagon- 
ette, and  the  sun  was  hot.  so  we  were  glad  enough  to 
sto])  tor  luncheon  at  an  out-of-door  restaurant.  The 
little  building  was  roofed  with  \ines,  and.  in  the  gar- 
den, real  oranges  and  lemons  hung  from  the  trees. 
Ilere  we  had  our  first  meal  in  tlie  land  (il  macaroni 
and  garlic;  but   we  left  out  tlie  garlic. 

Then  on  we  went  again,  jolting  o\er  unexen  ])a\'e- 
ments     walled    in    on    either    side    by    bright     ])ainted 


ROL'Xl)  THE  WORLD    IX   SILl-A'Cl*. 


13 


houses.  All  arcnind  us.  (M1  the  street,  cookinn'.  wash- 
ing', sewing,  ciuarrelling  and  ]()\e-inaking  were  going 
on.  One  glance  at  tlie  dirt  would  have  turned  Mari- 
etta's hair  white:  and  the  odors  were  not  of  cologne  I 
.\s  we  drove  farther  out.  open  archways  framed  fleet- 
ing glinij)ses  of  lo\-ely  gardens.  ( )ur  guide  told  us 
that  the  li\ely  street  we  were  on  had  been  buried  nine 
feet  deep  in  la\a  at  the  time  of  tlie  last  erui^ticui.  and 
for  a  week  it  had  been  so  dark  that  one  could  hardly 
see  one's  hand  before  ones  lace.  'Idiere  was  a  good 
deal  (^f  la\a  dust,  and  as  we  got  outside  of  the  cit}-  it 
grew  dee])er.  and  there  were  great  heaps  of  it  on  either 
side  of  the  road.  It  took  about  two  hours  to  co\er 
the  fourteen  miles  from  Naples,  and  when  we  left  otu- 
carriage  at  the  hotel,  outside  the  entrance  to  l*om])eii. 
there  was  no  sign  of  anything  like  our  ])reconcei\e(l 
notions  of  that  citw  A\'e  were  admitted  to  a  lo\ely 
])ark.  —  the  more  lo\e]\"  in  us  because  of  our  dust}' 
dri\e.  The  high  banks  on  either  side  of  the  ]:)ath  lead- 
ing to  the  ruined  cit\'  were  dotted  with  beautiful 
flowers.  The}-  say  a  king  of  Xaples.  digging  to  get 
water  to  the  cit^'  from  a  spring,  was  the  first  to  dis- 
co\-er  the  place.  l')\'  good  fortmie  we  had  l'omi)eii 
almost  to  ourseKes.  and  we  wandered  for  hours 
through  the  ruins.  Think  of  it  I  ruins  two  thousand 
}'ears  old.  The  narrow  streets  worn  in  dee])  ruts  b}- 
the  chariot  wheels  of  long  ago.  with  their  huge  step- 
])ing  stones  at  the  crossings.  s])oke  elocpienth'  of  the 
tide  of  life  that  had  once  flowed  through  them.  lv\- 
caw'iting  is  still  going  on.  as  the  ancient  cit\-  has  not 
}et  been  entirelv  uncoxcred.  I\eslorations  ha\e  been 
so  carelull}-  made  that  one  can  form  an  iwcellent  idea 
ot    what   the   cit\-    wa>.      Tliert'   are   bakeries    with    their 


14 


ROU  X  ] )  'J'  1 1  E   \\(  )RL  I)    1  X   vS  I  L  !•:  X  C I ', 


ovens  and  mills  for  j^rindini^'  tlonr,  wine  shops  with 
their  em])!}-  reser\-oirs.  chemists"  shops,  with  all  their 
A'essels  and  instruments.  In  the  houses  the  wall  ])aint- 
ing"s  are  as  ])rig-ht  as  it  fresh  from  the  brush.  The 
homes  of  the  wealthy  had  beautiful  flower  gardens  in 
tlie  inner  court,  and  on  pedestals  in  the  gardens  stand 
portrait  busts  of  the  long  dead  owners.  We  took 
some    snap    shots    of    each    other    in    the    h'orum    and 


'OM  I'l-: 


ivoman    Theatre,    and    had    drinking    water    offered    us 
from  a  well  in  the  tem])le  of  Isis. 

The  liaths  must  ha\-e  been  the  lieight  of  luxur\  . 
with  hot  and  cold  baths.  ])lunge  baths,  and  Turkish 
baths,  all  ])ro\i(le(l  for.  In  the  Museum  are  shown,  in 
glass  cases,  casts  ot  soiue  of  the  \MCtims.  made  from 
the   la\a-molds   that   formed   about    their   bodies.      The 


ROL'XD  TllK   WORLD    1\   SILKXCIC  15 

podr  creatures  are  (Unibled  up  or  Ixinj;'  on  their  faces 
evidentlv  in  tlie  xain  elTort  to  shield  themselves  troni 
the  awful  storm  of  la\a.  It  seems  cruel  that  their 
death  agonv  should  be  ex])osed  to  curious  s^azers. 
The  slielves  arcnmd  them  are  filled  with  things  they 
had  used  in  lite.  —  household  utensils,  jewelry,  i^lass- 
ware.  bronze  and  co])per  x'essels,  swords.  c(Mns.  vases, 
in  pathetic  array. 

Three  days  later: — We  have  just  left  Xai)les.  haxint;" 
had  four  davs  there  instead  of  one.  d'he  strike  made 
it  impossible  to  unload  the  Irene  on  time.  .\a])les 
was  swarmint;'  with  troo])s.  and  our  \esscl.  which  lay 
at  anchor  in  the  l)ay  about  a  mile  from  the  landing- 
stage,  was  guarded  b}-  a  number  of  Italian  officers, 
swell-looking  fellows,  all  red  and  silver  braid,  with 
feathers  on  their  flapping  bea\er  hats.  Jt  has  been 
interesting  to  watch  the  unloading,  and  the  ])eo])lc  who 
come  out  in  rowboats  at  night  to  sing  and  dance  for 
us.  I  wonder  how  they  manage  to  dance  in  those  row- 
boats  without  going  cn-erboard.  The}-  hold  up  a  big 
umbrella,  inverted,  to  catch  the  change:  and  they  al- 
ways catch  it.  too. 

We  have  gone  back  and  forth  from  the  city  every- 
day either  in  the  tender,  that  ])lies  regularly,  or  in  a 
rowboat.  ^'esterda\■  we  went  to  the  Monastery  ol 
San  Martino,  a  ])ictures(pie  landmark  on  the  to])  n\  the 
hill  behind  the  citw  There  is  cpiite  a  fine  musetuu  up 
there:  the  carriage  in  which  the  ])resent  king  was 
taken  to  his  christening  is  ke])t  in  the  museum.  lie- 
sides  the  museum  there  is  a  beautiful  church  on  the 
hill.  and.  best  of  all.  some  glorious  \ie\vs. 

We  ha\-e  also  \isited  tlu'  Cathedral,  and  se\ cral  of 
the    four    hmidred    C'atlmlic    churches    in     X'aples.    and 


16  ROUXD  THE  WORLD  IX  SILENCE 

taken  a  drive  out  to  I'uteoli.  where  Paul  landed  on  his 
\vav  to  Rome.  There  are  still  traces  remainini^  of  the 
ancient  Roman  wharf  on  which  he  landed.  Part  of 
the  four  days  we  have  spent  in  shop])ino-  for  corals, 
g'uide-hooks  and  photo,g"ra])hs.  and  in  watchin^^  the  in- 
teresting" street-life  of  the  city.  Altogether,  we  have 
enjovcd  ourselves  in  a  leisurely  way.  Puddie  has 
gone  \\ith  us  e\"ery  day.  and  has  been  as  good  and 
haj^py  as  a  king,  ha])pier.  probably,  and  better  too. 
judging  from  all  accounts  of  kings.  Jt  has  been  huge 
fun  to  go  about  ^vith  Mr.  I.rown.  Xo  difficulties  of 
language  daunt  him.  I  told  him  one  day  he  could 
soon  graduate  in  the  sign  language.  Yesterday  he 
bought  himself  an  Italian-lMiglish  Phrase  Pook.  The 
rest  of  us  stood  in  a  row  along  the  side  walk  while  he 
hunted  for  the  ])hrasc  he  wanted,  and  tried  it  on  one 
of  the  e\er-i)resent  soldiers.  Jt  was  amusing  to  watch 
them  I 

1  ha\e  been  out  sho])])ing  all  by  myself,  and  the  onl\- 
trouble  I  had  was  with  the  beggars  that  followed  me. 
\'()U  know  Xa])les  swarms  with  them,  'i'hev  dog 
e\ery  ste])  we  take.  "We  will  take  American  money'", 
they  say,  —  obliging  creatures!  An  intelligent  Italian 
told  .Mr.  Prown  tliat  tlic  soldiers'  i)a\-  was  onlv  two 
cents  a  day.  And  only  two  cents  a  da\-  was  ])ai(l  to 
the  men   unloading  and  coaling  the    Irene. 

We  are  due  at  Cenoa  about  the  middle  of  the  after- 
noon, to-morrow;  our  trunks  ha\-e  been  left  in  storage 
at  Xa])les,  and  we  are  to  tra\el  in  light  marching 
order. 


RO UXD  THK  WORLD   1  X   SILEXCK 


17 


111 


Rome. 


Ol'R  ship  sailed  into  the  liarbor  of  (jenoa  carly 
in  the  afternoon,  in  the  midst  of  a  storm.  As 
we  entered  the  liarbor.  lij^htnini;-  was  flashing" 
from  one  grey  hillside  to  another,  hut  by  the  time  the 
Irene  came  u])  to  the  (|ua}-  it  was  all  over,  save  a  light 
rain.  An  hour  later  we  left  the  steamer,  bag  and  bag- 
gage. Oh,  such  a  pile  of  stuff  as  we  se\en  people  had  ! 
Three  hand-bags,  four  suit  cases,  one  telescope  bag, 
one  huge  shawl-stra])])ed  bundle,  one  carryall  and 
lUuldie's  folding  go-cart,  and  his  horse,  —  a  dashing 
little   beast   who  travels  tucked   under  mv   arm.     And 


A  grand  ])rocession  of  stewards  ])araded  our  effects 
across  the  (|uay,  and  we,  with  a  last  fond  backward 
look  at  the  dear  Irene,  followed  after.  In  the  custom 
house,  steerage  ])assengers,  first-class  passengers  and 
second-class  passengers,  together  with  mountains  of 
baggage,  were  craiumed  ])ell-mell  into  one  small  room. 
It  took  a  long  while  to  get  all  our  scattered  baggage 
marked  with  the  little  labels,  like  ])ink  ])ostage  stamps, 
which  showed  that  we  had  ])assed  the  Customs. 
\\  hen  we  were  free  to  depart,  Mr.  ISrown.  with  the 
aid  of  a  Cook's  man  as  interpreter,  engaged  carriages, 
and  we  set  out  to  see  all  we  could  of  the  cit}'  in  an 
hour.  Cenoa  was  charming  to  me  with  its  air  of  old- 
lashioned  pomp,  its  streets  of  grand  ])alaces,  its  tine 
shops,    and    its    peace    from    beggars.      I    ])ut    this    city 


18  ROL'XI)  THK   WORLD    IX   SIIJ-'ACI'. 

down  on  my  list  of  air-casllcs  for  another  \isit.  After 
supper  at  a  (jenoa  restaurant,  we  took  the  ex])rcss  for 
Milan.  i>ut  out  in  the  open  country  our  engine  broke 
down,  and  there  we  staged  for  hours.  \\  ith  us.  on 
the  train,  was  an  American  who  was  returnint;'  to  his 
home  in  I'urma  with  his  wife,  two  small  children,  and 
two  lUu'mese  maids,  'idle  little  ones  went  to  slee]), 
and  the  rest  of  us  set  about  ^ettini;"  some  ftm  out  of  the 
situation.  The  train  liad  ^iven  an  aw  ful  jerk  when  the 
engine  broke  down,  and  Mr.  Ilrown,  who  ha])i)ened  to 
be  standing  up,  was  thrown  against  the  side  of  the  car, 
breaking  both  the  bows  of  liis  spectacles.  Tie  was 
dolefully  mourning  o\er  them,  when  1  asked  him  if 
he  would  be  willing  to  tr\-  mending  them  with  court 
])laster.  "Oh  }es,  anything!"  So  the  court  plaster 
case  was  hunted  u]),  and  heads  beiU  o\er  the  delicate 
bit  of  surgery.  Wonder  of  wonders,  it  held!  —  resvdt, 
a  ]:»erfect  pair  of  blinders!  Stich  a  sight  he  was!  W'e 
laughed  until  we  could  laugh  no  more,  then  discoxered 
we  were  sleepy,  and  most  overwhe!mingl\-  slee]iy  too. 
I  dimly  realized  that  a  kind  hand  was  tucking  an  oxer- 
coat  around  me,  and  after  that  I  knew  no  more  till  \\  e 
reached  Milan  at  half-past  two  in  the  morning.  Tum- 
bling out  on  the  platform,  babies,  baggage  and  all,  we 
trotted  slee])ily  after  the  three  ])orters  loaded  with  our 
impedimenta.  At  the  tall  iron  garden  gate  of  a  hotel 
across  the  wdx  a  concierge  a])])eare(l.  Xo.  lluw  had 
no  rooms.  Our  ])rocession  stumbled  on  to  the  next 
gate,  that  of  the  ilotel  d'ltalia,  where  we  were  soon 
comfortably  in  bed.  .Are  vou  sur])rised  that  we  were 
late  to  coffee  and  rolls?  It  was  raining  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  later  on  we  gazed  at  the  exterior  of  the 
cathedral    whh    lunbrellas   tip])ed   back   and   the    water 


koixi)  Till-:  woKi.i)  i.\  sii.i'.xci':  v) 

drippini;'  on  our  faces  while  we  craned  our  necks  to 
measure  the  catliedral's  glorious  hei<;ht.  inside,  its 
beauty  was  almost  hidden  by  the  darkness  :  but  I  had 
the  memory  of  a  perfect  summer  day  there  _\cars  as^o. 

From  the  cathedral  we  went  to  the  Santa  Maria  della 
Ciraccia  to  see  Da  \'inci"s  T^ast  v^ui)per.  The  master- 
piece is  fast  (lisa])pearin!4".  I  could  see  a  i^reat  chani;e 
in  it  since  ni\-  former  \isit.  A  few  hours  there  and 
then  came  the  loni^'  journe\'  to  \  euice.  .Much  of  the 
countr\-  we  i)asse(l  throus^ii  has  the  beaut\-  character- 
istic of  Southern  California.  I 'art  of  the  time  the  train 
ran  between  the  shore  ot  Lake  Como  and  the  i;iorious 
.\1])S.  There,  too,  we  found  some  steamer  friends  in 
our  com])artment.  and  the  ti\e  hoiu's  slii)])e<l  i;ail\-  ])ast. 
We  arri\ed  in  the  midst  o|  the  annual  storm;  this 
storm  lasts  several  da_\s.  a  hij^'h  wind  ])re\ails  during" 
it.  and  the  water  rises  to  its  i^reatest  heii^iit.  it  was 
\ery  wet  and  raw,  with  a  strong-  smell  of  salt  in  the 
air.  Coming'  from  the  station,  we  huddled  shi\erin<;" 
together  in  the  ^'ondola.  while  it  thundered  and  poured. 
'J1ie  hotel  steps  and  hall  were  Hooded  with  running- 
water.  'Idle  whole  ])lace  felt  like  an  acpiarimn.  (  )ur 
s])irits  were  of  the  best,  howexer.  and  there  was  amuse- 
ment to  be  fomid  in  e\erythini;- :  in  our  blunders  in 
tryini;-  to  make  our  wants  understood,  and  the  blunders 
oi  the  servants  trying'  to  miderstand  us:  and  in  the 
(piamt  old  house,  with  its  narrow  halls  that  ran  ;iround 
Corners,  and  into  all  sorts  of  une.\])ected  lal)\rinths  in 
which  we  wx-re  forever  losing-  ourselves.  (  )ur  beds 
were  so  hi,L;li  that  a  step-ladder  was  a  necessity  I 

.Morning-  dawned,  to  the  accompaniment  of  more 
rain  ;  but,  nothing-  daunted,  w f  set  out  on  foot,  through 
the  narrow  laiK>  in  the  n-ar  of  <  >\]y  hold,  to  St.   Mark's 


20  ROUXD  THE  WORLD   IX  SILEXCE 

Sciuare.  onh'  a  few  minutes"  walk,  'l^hc  water  was  ris- 
ing" ra])i(lly,  and  workmen  were  putting  up  a  temporary 
bridi^e  to  tlie  door  of  the  Cathedral.  Inside,  several 
inches  of  water  covered  the  \-estil)ule  floor.  In  the 
Cathedral  itself  there  were  several  small  lakes  in  the 
hollows  of  the  stone  floor,  where  the  j2;round  beneath 
had  settled  unevenly.  Ihit  who  cares  for  wet  feet  in 
St.   Mark's,  the  gorgeous,  the  incom])arable  ? 

It  was  All  vSaints"  Day,  and  we  were  just  in  time  to 
see  the  ])rocession  of  the  Patriarch  :  the  ])riests  in 
robes  of  cloth  of  gold,  pur])le  or  red,  and  the  ])atriarch 
himself,  in  his  white  rol)es,  seated  on  his  throne  of 
white  satin,  embroidered  with  gold.  Afterwards  we 
climbed  the  stairs,  and  spent  a  rapturous  hour  among 
the  wonderful  mosaics.  The  vScpiare  bv  this  time  was 
under  two  feet  of  Avater.  The  wind  was  blowing. 
Hats  were  sailing  through  the  air.  15(>\s  were  s])lash- 
ing  around,  and  everybody  seemd  to  be  ha\ing  a  great 
lark.  l*eo])le  were  being  carried  or  rowed  across  the 
Scpiare.  There  was  one  curious  makeshift  for  a  ferry. 
Two  chairs,  taken  from  one  of  the  cafes,  were  ])laccd 
on  a  little  platform  which  was  drawn  along  on  a  child's 
cart.  And  on  this  comical  and  precarious  structure 
perched  a  c()m])lacent  couple,  as  dignified  as  though 
they  had  been  in  an  orthodo.x  carriage. 

The  Doge's  Palace  was  closed:  so  were  all  the 
stores;  but  the  Royal  Palace  was  o])en  until  one  o'clock. 
This  Palace  was  so  ])lain  that  I  was  much  (lisa])])ointed. 
The  bedroom  for  their  Italian  Majesties  was  \er\- 
])lain  :  their  dressing-room  adjoining  has  an  ordinary- 
marble  slab  washstand,  like  that  in  mv  room  at  the 
hotel,  and  the  dressing  table  has  onl\-  a  simi)]e  white 
cotton  co\er  with  cheap  lace  edging.      Put  the   Palace 


ROUXD  THK  WORLD   IN'   SILKX'CK  21 

is  a  huge  place  :  it  lias  four  hundred  rooms  and  sixty- 
six  courts.  There  is  an  audience  room  for  each  of  the 
foreign  countries.  Attached  to  each  is  its  own  suite 
of  dining,  smoking,  hilliard  and  bedrooms,  but  the 
audience  rooms  only  are  shown.  In  that  for  the 
I'nited  States,  the  ceiling  has  medallion  portraits  of 
the  Presidents.  I  thought  (Greece  had  the  ])rettiest 
room,  with  its  dainty  ])ale  blue  and  gold  furniture  and 
hangings.  Idie  \veather  was  cold,  raw  and  windy,  and 
since  everything  was  closed  there  was  niching  but  the 
hotel  for  the  rest  of  the  day.  It  was  a  harsh  contrast 
to  ni}'  hrst  visit  to  X'enice.  That  left  me  an  enchanted 
memory  of  glorious  summer  days,  blue  sk\'  and  blue 
waters.  1  feel  sorry  for  the  rest  that  they  could  not 
have  seen  \  enice  in  a  more  charming  mood. 

The  early  morning  light  of  h'riday  saw  us  gathering 
u])  our  belongings  and  hurrying  to  the  station.  ( )\er 
here,  one  has  to  be  at  the  station  an  hour  ahead  of 
train  time,  for  one  can't  e\en  go  into  the  \\  aiting-rc^om 
without  a  ticket,  and  the  baggage  must  be  lot)ke(l  after 
])ersonally.  ( )n  the  train  we  beguiled  the  time  by 
making  tea.  with  one  of  us  on  watch  in  the  corridor  to 
give  warning  so  that  the  guard  might  not  catch  us 
with  a  lighted  s]jiril-lam]).  Hut  one  can't  drink  tea  all 
day.  and  we  were  glad  enough  when  we  reached  IHor- 
ence  at  hall-])ast  i\\i^'  and  clind)e(l  out  of  our  cramped 
(piarters.  just  as  we  dro\c  u])  to  the  hotel  door,  it 
began  to  rain  heaxily.  but  we  had  a  cos\  home\  e\en- 
mg  gatherecl  around  a  grate  hre  in  one  of  our  three 
big  ci  »mtortable  rooms. 

All  the  next  morning  we  s])ent  in  the  rfiizi  (".allery. 
i'.uddie.  riding  ha])]>il\-  in  his  little  go-cart,  was  much 
interoted    in    the    pictures.      Mow     ean    I    de'-cribe    thi> 


')1> 


ROL'XD  THE  WORLD   IX  SlLEXCE 


vast  collection  of  treasures  for  you?  The  thought  is 
overwhelming;' I  ( )f  the  lonj^'  i^alleries.  hlled  with  ])ic- 
tures  and  statuary  each  one  (leser\-ini;'  si)ecial  study. 
one  room  will  ever  stand  clear  in  ni}'  memory,  —  that 
small  round  a])artment  called  the  'I'ribuna.  which  holds 
some  of  the  world's  ])riceless  treasiu'cs  of  paintiui^-  and 
sculpture.  Here  are  the  \'enus  di  .Medici,  the  Wrest- 
lers and  the  Knife  (irinder.  Raphael's  Madonna  of  the 
Gold-finch  and  Titian's  X'enus  of  I'rbino.  In  the  Sala 
di  Lorenza  Monaco,  also,  are  collected  some  of  the 
finest  paintin,u,"s  beloui^ini;"  to  the  Gallery.  As  nearly 
all  the  largest  and  most  noteworthy  are  of  the  Ma- 
donna, there  is  an  amusing'  incongruity  in  Botticelli's 
luxuriant  "  llirth  of  X'enus  "  which  has  been  hunii"  in 
this  room.  Most  beautiful  of  all  the  ])aintins^'s  here  is 
Fra  AuL^elico's  .Madonna  with  the  twehe  angels. 
Ila\-ini4"  been  ])ainted  for  a  tabernacle,  it  is  in  the  form 
of  a  ])anel  with  a  surrounding'  arch.  (  )n  the  panel  are 
the  \'irj.;in  and  Child  against  a  back.^round  of  cloth  of 
i^'old.  and  on  the  surrounding'  arch  are  the  familiar 
often-copied  ani^els  with  trum])et.  or<4'an,  cxinbals  and 
l)saltery. 

After  luncheon  we  drox'e  to  the  I'itti  Gallery.  I 
s])ent  most  of  m_\'  time  here  before  l\ai)haers  tender 
Madonna  dello  Sedia  and  the  .Madonna  del  Granduca. 
In  another  room  is  Del  Sarto's  John  the  llaptist.  The 
Koval  a])artments  at  the  I'itti  I'alace  are  as  ^or^eous 
and  beautiful  as  a  kin,L;''s  ])alace  should  be.  The  walls 
of  the  (pieen's  luxurious  rooms  arc  hun^'  with  hea\-_\' 
cream  white  satin,  embroidered  entirelv  I)\  hand,  and 
the  dressing'  tables  are  co\ered  with  ex(|uisitc  Swiss 
embroidery:  it  is  a  ^i^reat  contrast  to  the  jjalace  at 
Venice.      W  c    asked    <iur    puide    to    show     us    tlic    ro\al 


ROUXD  THE  WORLD  I\   SlLHXCK.  2.^ 

nursery  ;  but  he  said  there  was  none,  the  children  beini;- 
left  at  Rome  when  the  court  came  to  Florence. 

Xext  morning-  we  had  such  an  early  breakfast  that 
we  were  ready  for  our  day's  sightseeing  about  half- 
past  eight.  First  came  the  Church  of  Santa  Croce, 
with  its  monuments  and  frescoes.  Some  one  has  a|)tl_\- 
called  this  church,  with  its  numerous  monuments  t(t 
wt)rld-renowned  Florentines,  "  the  Westminster  Abbey 
of  Florence".  One  walks  o\er  the  burial  ])laces  of 
the  first  disciples  of  St.  Francis,  treading  u])on  their 
worn  bronze  ef^gies.  iJut  for  many  years  ])ast  Santa 
Croce  has  been  reserved  for  the  illustrious  dead,  states- 
men. scul])tors.  scientists,  poets.  Among  the  man_\ 
monuments,  we  found  the  tomb  of  Cialileo  and  the  be- 
lated medallion  to  Machiavelli.  The  huge  empty  sar- 
cophagus of  white  marble  erected  in  hope  of  obtaining 
i)ante"s  body,  seemed  to  me  conspicuous  rather  than 
imi)ressi\e.  I  hit  Michael  .Vngelo's  tomb  interested  us 
deeply,  because,  it  said,  the  bust  was  considered  an 
excellent  likeness.  Other  monuments  to  men  less 
familiar,  were  worthy  of  admiration  because  of  their 
beauty.  Some,  to  ])hiloso])hers  and  scientists  of  whom 
we  had  ne\er  heard,  claimed  attention  because  of  the 
sculptors  who  designed  them. 

(  )f  e\en  greater  interest  were  the  frescoes  for  which 
Santa  Croce  is  noted  ;  they  are  e\eryw  here,  in  the  a])se. 
in  the  cha])els  and  the  cloisters,  in  the  arcade  on  the 
south,  in  the  refectory.  .Man\-  of  the  best  lia\e  been 
restored  alter  haxing  been  covered  with  whitewash. 
The  finest  are  b}-  Ciotto.  who  had  so  important  a  part 
in  the  building  of  Santa  Croce.  Then  there  are  man\- 
others.  —  scri])tural.  a]jocr\])hal  and  legendary.  -  by 
Ic-sser   painters;   bv    disciples  ot    Ciotlo.   bv    ihc    C.-iddis 


24  ROUXD  THE  WORLD  I X  SILENCE 

and  their  followers,  by  men  of  whom  one  knows  noth- 
in<:^.  In  the  Periizzi  chapel  is  Giotto's  most  beantifnl 
series.  They  are  arranged  one  above  the  other  on  the 
walls  in  three  divisions  ;  on  one  wall  scenes  from  the 
lives  of  John  the  IJaptist  and  John  the  Evangelist; 
l)elow  that.  Zacharias  and  Elizabeth,  and  lowest. 
Salome  with  Herod  and  with  llerodias;  ()p])osite  are 
the  A'ision  of  Patmos.  Dusiana  and  the  Resurrection 
of  St.  John,  in  like  order,  lint  in  our  haste  all  these 
])assed  by  like  pictures  in  a  panorama.  To  have  really 
seen  all  the  Santa  Croce  frescoes,  in  their  elaborate 
and  varied  detail,  would  have  taken  as  many  weeks  as 
we  had  hours. 

Then  came  the  Palazzo  X'ecchio  and  its  great  hall 
with  its  marble  statue  of  Savonarola  where  the  Italian 
Parliament  was  to  be  held  by  X'ictor  E.manuel.  (Jut- 
side,  the  cathedral  walls  are  covered  with  variegated 
luarbles  in  ])anels.  mosaics  and  frescoes:  the  countless 
niches  which  hold  statues  of  saints  and  i)r()phets  are 
lined  with  colored  marble  ;  elaborate  traceries  and  fret 
work  adorn  mouldings,  panels,  and  the  cano])ies  above 
the  statues.  One  cannot  wonder  that  six  hundred 
years  i)assed  in  building  this  cathedral,  which,  it  was 
ordered,  shoidd  be  "  the  loftiest,  most  sum])tu()us  and 
most  magnificent  ])ile  that  human  in\ention  could  de- 
vise and  human  labor  execute  "'.  We  slopped  a  few 
moments  to  watch  the  ser\ice  that  was  going  on. 
Crossing  o\er  to  the  r)a])tistery  we  were  just  in  time 
to  see  the  baptism  of  a  tinv  Italian,  ten  da\s  old. 
Think  of  growing  u])  under  the  shadow  of  Ghiberti's 
wonderfid  bronze  doors!  In  the  llargello.  now  a  mu- 
seum, but  once  the  residence  of  the  I'odesta  or  Chief 
Magistrate,  there  is  a  (piaint  inner  court  and  stairway. 


ROUXD  THE  WORLD  IX  SILKXCK  25 

At  the  Church  of  Santissima  Annunziata  a  service  was 
going  on,  so  we  turned  away  into  the  cloisters,  where 
there  is  a  very  beautiful  fresco  by  Andrea  del  Sarto. 
the  Madonna  del  Sacco,  painted  in  IrV^T).  Its  coloring 
is  still  soft  and  delicate.  Then  with  reverent  foot- 
steps we  trod  the  halls  of  the  Monastery  of  San  Marco. 
We  had  the  place  all  to  ourselves,  and  were  at  liberty 
to  wander  around,  meditating  on  the  scenes  enacted 
there  in  the  days  so  long  gone  by.  AN'hat  a  busy  com- 
munity it  must  have  been  ;  some  of  the  brothers  work- 
ing with  pen  and  brush  on  the  illuminated  manuscripts 
which  now  lie  under  glass  cases  in  the  library;  some- 
times a  little  band  going  forth  to  preach,  or  ])erhai)s 
to  buy  su]:)plies  ;  others  sitting  silent,  meditating  over 
the  next  sermon  ;  Fra  Angelico  busy  over  the  sweet 
faces  with  which  he  adorned  the  walls.  Saints  and 
angels  everywhere  look  down  in  benediction  from 
cloister  walls,  from  walls  of  Chapter  Mouse  and  from 
the  walls  of  the  corridors.  What  have  they  survived  ! 
What  could  they  tell  us!  How  the  brethren  must 
liave  loved  gentle  Fra  Angelico!  How  pure  and  noble 
his  mind,  to  conceive  such  sweetness  and  love  as  beams 
upon  us  from  these  faces  ! 

Here  is  the  little  room  to  which  great  Cosimo  de 
Medici  used  to  steal  away  when  he  wanted  a  cpiiet 
hour,  and  last  are  the  two  low  rooms  where  Saxonarola 
])rayed  and  studied.  llis  chair  and  desk  are  still  there. 
His  strong  face  looks  down  from  the  wall.  The  whole 
convent  seems  to  breathe  his  intense  ])ers(inality.  It 
was  in  the  scpiare  before  the  convent  door  thai  he  so 
often  ])reached.  .\11  is  still  and  deserted  out  there  now 
in  the  autumnal  sunshine,  h'rom  vSavonarola's  cell  we 
went    down    into    the    l*ia//.a    della    .Sionoria.      In    this 


26  ROUXD  THE  WORLD  IX  SlLEXCE 

square,  then,  as  now.  the  heart  of  tlie  city,  the  great 
soul  yielded  itself  uj)  to  its  Maker.  A  bronze  slab 
marks  the  place  of  his  martyrdom. 

We  turned  from  the  scene  oi  Savonarola's  death  to 
the  burial  place  of  his  enemies,  the  Chapel  of  the 
Medici.  Jn  spite  of  all  the  pomp  of  costl\-  marble  an<l 
mosaic,  it  does  not  touch  the  heart  as  does  that  lowlv 
slab  in  the  Piazza  della  Signoria.  Passing  on  to  the 
Xew  Sacristy,  we  stood  before  those  famous  figures. 
Michael  Angelo's  masterpieces.  Day  and  Xight.  Even- 
ing and  Dawn,  on  the  tombs  of  Lorenzo  and  Giuliano 
de  Medici,  over  whose  significance  there  has  been  so 
much  conjecture.  Some  say  ihev  were  left  unfinished 
purposely,  in  a  fit  of  picpie.  but  J  like  better  the  con- 
clusion of  more  thoughtful  minds  that  cverv  line,  everv 
touch  in  them  was  the  working  out  of  a  mighty 
thought;  that  in  them  Michael  Angelo  was  writing  in 
stone  his  despair  ()\er  his  beloved  Florence,  the  cit\' 
which  had  just  l)een  defeated  in  its  struggle  fcjr  inde- 
I)endence.  and  forced  t(^  bow  its  proud  head,  hitherto 
so  glorious  and  free,  under  the  _\'oke  of  mean  and  ctm- 
temptil)le  rulers.  He  foresaw  that  her  great  career  had 
come  to  an  end.  ne\er  to  rise  again;  henceforth  leth- 
argy Avas  to  be  her  fate.  'Jdie  figures  are  full  of  a 
mighty  life.  They  have  fought  and  struggled,  then 
sunk  into  oblivion,  not  into  rest. 

in  the  afternoon  we  had  a  long  (lri\e  u])  the  \'iale 
(lei  Colli  and  the  \'ia  Machiaxelli.  which  run  into  each 
other  in  a  fine  wide  road  winding  u])  a  long  hill.  On 
one  side  are  handsome  \illas  surrounded  with  gardens, 
and  on  the  other  one  looks  down  on  beautiful  \iews 
of  the  cit\-  below,  and  across  to  the  distant  hills.  (  )n 
the    top    of    the    hill    is    the    chm'ch    of    San    .Miniato    al 


ROL'Xn  THE  WORT,!)   1 X  S1IJ<:XCI\ 


Monte,  which  lias  a  glorious  \ie\v  from  its  terrace. 
This  is  where  the  v'~^])irit  in  ■"  RoniDhi  ""  stood,  wlien  he 
returned  to  i^aze  on  tlie  city  of  liis  fatliers.  There  is  a 
cemeter\-  close  to  the  church,  where  candles  burn  in 
little  shrines  on  the  praxes.  I'arther  on  there  is  an- 
other beautiful  \-iew'  from  the  IMazza  Michael  An^elo 
on  the  other  side  of  the  hill. 

Hack  in  hdorence  as^ain  in  the  early  dusk  of  the 
autumn  da\'.  we  insisted  on  s^oinL^'  to  the  Eni^lish  cem- 
eter\-  thoui^ii  our  dri\'er  said  it  was  closed  after  tour 
o'clock,  'idle  warden  let  us  in.  to  stand  beside  .Mrs. 
Hrowninj^'s  tomb  and  wonder  why  those  two  devoted 
lo\-ers  should  be  separated  in  death:  she  l>'inij,-  here  in 
their  beloxed  Italy,  and  he  far  away  in  Westminster 
Abbev. 


28 


ROUXD  THE  WORLD  IX  STLEXCE 


W 


International   Hotel.   Urindisi.  Italv. 


HOW  s^ood  the  sunshine  seemed,  that  first  morn- 
ing- in  Rome,  after  the  continuous  rain  we  ha\e 
had  since  we  landed  in  Italy  I 
'J'hough  we  were  only  five  minutes"  walk  from 
Trajan's  Tomb,  we  hurried  straii^ht  to  St.  i'eter's.  We 
rtished  throu,gh  the  streets  of  Rome  in  a  trolley  car. 
Think  of  taking"  a  trollev  in  Rome,  and  to  St.  I'eter'sl 
l>ut  at  the  time  the  incongruitx'  of  it  did  not  occur  to 
us.  We  thought  only  of  the  cathedral.  Was  it  really 
the  St.  Peter's  of  our  dreams?  ( )n  e\ery  side  stretches 
a  wilderness  of  marble,  marble  ])illars.  marl)le  walls. 
and  high  abo\e  one's  head  a  mighty  dome.  Jt  is  won- 
derful, it  is  disa])pointing.  if  beautiful  marble,  scul])- 
tures.  bronzes,  gilding,  height  and  breadth  could  sat- 
isfy, one  would  be  satiated.  One  aches  with  the  wear- 
iness of  trying  to  understand,  to  gras])  it  all.  .\fter 
spending  the  morning  there  we  felt  we  must  ha\e  the 
afternoon  out  of  doors.  So.  after  luncheon,  carriages 
were  ordered,  and  we  drox'e  out  to  the  I'incian  llill. 
The  beautiful  park-like  gardens,  with  their  wide 
stretches  of  green  turf,  were  restful  to  the  eye.  This 
is  a  fashionable  resort  in  the  latter  ])art  of  the  after- 
noon, when  the  band  ])lays  and  tlie  Italians  ])a\-  and 
recei\-e  \isits.  sitting  in  their  carriages.  We  enjoyed 
watching  them  and  looking-  at  the  beautiful  \iew  from 
the  crown  of  the  hill  until  the  sun  went  down:  then 
we  went  home  through  the  darkening  streets,  where 
handsome  shops  were  blazing  with  electric  lights. 


ROUXD  THE  WORLD   IX  SILIvXCE  29 

Xext  day  we  got  clown  near  the  heart  of  ancient 
Rome,  by  going'  early  to  Trajan's  Fornni.  There  is 
little  to  be  seen  there  except  the  Column,  which  is 
w(~)n(lerfully  preserved.  Aroimd  it  is  wreathed,  in  an 
ascending-  ]>rocession.  the  sculptured  story  of  Trajan's 
wars.  From  the  Forum  we  walked  to  the  Career 
Mamertinus.  one  of  the  city's  most  noteworthy  an- 
ticpiities.  The  Apostles,  Peter  and  Paul,  were  im- 
prisoned there,  being  thrust  down  through  a  hole  in  the 
roof  into  the  lower  chambers.  There  is  a  stairwav 
now.  down  which  we  crept,  to  the  dark,  damp  dungeon 
l)elow.  It  made  the  l)ible  seem  so  real  to  stand  on  the 
^•ery  spot  which  the  feet  of  the  apostles  had  ])resse(l  so 
long  ago. 

As  we  went  di^wn  the  A  ia  delli  Crazie  into  the 
Roman  Forum.  1  ])ersua(led  the  rest  to  go  on  and  lea\e 
me.  Once  alone.  1  sat  down  on  a  crumbling  column 
in  the  j'.asilica  Julia,  and  dreamed  that  the  empty  s])ace 
around  me  was  filled  with  the  Romans  of  olden  da}s. 
in  their  white  togas.  Ojiposite  were  the  three  graceful 
columns  of  the  'J'emple  of  Castor;  at  my  left,  the  Arch 
of  Septimus  Seyerus  ;  on  the  heights  aboye.  the  eight 
columns  of  the  Tem])le  of  Saturn.  F'lcecy  cloudlets 
dotted  the  tender  blue  of  the  sky.  Presently  a  real 
li\e  ancient  Roman,  wearing  the  badge  of  a  guide, 
came  along  and  tried  to  scrape  acciuaintance.  .My 
dream  Romans  ])eing  more  inxiting  than  this  realilw  I 
ottered  him  some  small  change,  hoping  he  would  de- 
part. The  rapidity  of  his  exit  was  amazing.  .Mo\ing 
on,  1  came  to  the  Palace  of  the  X'estal  X'irgins,  where 
there  were  prett\'  tlower  gardens  aud  a  founlain  in  the 
ruins  of  the  Court.  Pack  of  this  are  the  huge  ruined 
walls  of  the  Palace  of  the  C'esars.  and  larther  on  is  the 


ROUXI)  'IMII',   WORIJ)    l.\   SIIJ'XCI': 


Arch  of  Titus  with  its  sciil])ture(l  rc])rescntati()ns  of 
the  s])oils  broui^ht  from  tlie  sacred  city  of  the  Jews, 
the  seven-branched  candlestick,  tlie  truin])ets  of  tlie 
Jubilee,  and  the  table  of  the  shew -bread.  Here  also  is 
]:)ictured  Tittis  returning'  from  Jerusalem  :  his  face  has 
been  almost  destroyed,  not  ])\  the  tooth  of  time  it  is 
said,  but  by  stones  thrown  by  the  Jews.  To  this  (la\' 
no  Jew  will,  of  his  free  will,  ])ass  under  this  arch.  A 
little  further  on.  and  we  are  at  the  Colosseum.  It  was 
not  so  attracti\-e.  \-iewe(l  1)\'  the  liLi'ht  of  dax'.  as  when 
1  first  saw  it.  with  its  massixe  broken  arches  standing;' 
otit  clear  in  the  bright  mo()nli,uht.  Then  it  was  eas\- 
to  imagine  the  I\m])eror  in  his  chair  of  state:  to  see  a 
multitude  of  faces  looking  down  on  the  little  band  of 
Christians  in  the  arena:  to  hear  the  roar  of  ferocious 
humanit}-  drowning  the  roar  of  the  wild  beasts  below. 
Xow.  \iewed  by  light  of  garish  (la\-.  1  saw  nothing  but 
huge  bare  walls. 

Later  in  the  day  we  went  to  the  Church  of  San 
Clemente.  an  interesting  i)lace.  built  on  the  ruins  of  an 
early  Christian  Church  :  and  below  this  are  the  ruins  of 
btiilding's  of  a  still  earlier  age.  We  went  down  into 
the  lower  church,  which  our  guide  lighted  uj)  so  that 
we  could  see  the  frescoes,  some  of  which  were  \"er\ 
hue.  The  buildings  under  this.  —  that  is.  the  third 
stratum.  —  were  lull  ol  water,  and  we  could  onl\-  i)eer 
down  a  dark  stairway.  .\exl  came  a  \isit  to  the 
Church  of  San  I'ietro  in  A'incoli.  to  see  Michael  An- 
gelo's  wonderful  Moses:  and  then  we  went  to  the  Santa 
.Maria  in  .Vracoeli.  to  see  the  llambino.  which  is  a  doll 
carved  from  olix-e  Avood  brought  from  the  Ciarden  of 
(jethsemane.  The  ])riest  led  us  u])  to  the  altar,  and. 
opening  the  doors  of  the  shrine,  touched  a  spring  which 


Roi'xi)  Till-:  woRi.i)  IX  siij-.xci': 


.^1 


bnni,<i"ht  the  ,ylass  case  containing;'  the  luimbino  for- 
ward from  the  recess  l)eliin(l.  'Vhe  doll  is  coxered  so 
thickly  with  jewelled  rin^s  and  i)ins  that  it  is  a  mass 
of  ^ems.  These  jewels  are  votive  otfcrini^s.  and  are 
valned  at  $l,0()d.O()(i.  The  ])riest  i;ave  us  each  a  little 
picture,  which  he  first  wiped  on  the  s^lass  case,  thus 
makint;'  it  holy.  Ihuldie's  eyes  j^rew  very  larye  and 
round  when  he  saw  the  case  close  and  slip  back  out  of 
sio-ht. 

( )n  lea\in<T,'  this  church  we  drove  throu.yh  the  city, 
across  the  Tiber,  and  u])  a  lout;'  hill  to  the  Church  of 
San  I'ietro.  in  Montorio.  built  by  Ferdinand  and  Isa- 
bella of  Si)ain  on  the  s])ot  where  St.  Peter  is  said  to 
ha\e  suffered  martyrdom.  We  did  not  s^o  inside  this 
church,  however.  We  went  up  for  the  mai^nificent 
\iew  of  the  cit_\-  from  the  IMaza  before  its  door.  More- 
over, from  this  \antai4e  ])oint  one  is  able  to  sur\e\'  the 
whole  cit}-,  and  i^et  its  different  i)arts  well  fixed  in 
luind.  On  the  wa_\-  back  we  sto])])ed  to  \isit  the 
Methodist  ( )rphana<;e.  which  is  housed  in  an  old  con- 
\ent  on  the  \'ia  (jaribaldi.  The  lovel}-  j^ardens  of  the 
con\ent  make  the  i)lace  well  worth  \isitino'. 

( )n  Thursda}-  we  bes^an  with  the  Pantheon.  Il  is 
hard  to  realize  that  its  walls,  which  are  in  such  perfect 
j)reser\ation.  ha\e  stood  since  the  davs  of  the  i^m- 
peror  lladrian.  The  pecidiarity  of  the  edifice  is  that 
it  is  circular,  lighted  onl\'  1)\-  a  round  opening"  in  the 
roof.  \o  <;iass  ])rotects  this  o])enin^\  Peautifid  mar- 
bles make  the  interior  a  fit  restin«;-  ])lace  for  the  two 
Italian  kin^s.  and  the  .^reat  artist  l\ai)hael.  who  lie 
there  in  their  last  Ioul;-  sleep. 

We  turned  from  Ka])haers  tfuub  to  the  vSanta  Maria 
della    Pace,   where   are   his   yreat   paintings,   the   S\  bils. 


2,2  ROUND  THE  WORLD   1  X  SILK.XCE 

and  on  leaving  there  we  went  to  the  Santa  Maria 
Sopra  to  see  Michael  Angelo's  Christ  with  the  Cross,  a 
wonderful  marble  that  is  spoiled  by  the  addition  of  a 
bronze  drapery.  It  was  the  master's  intention  to  por- 
tray the  Risen  Christ,  hence  the  fig'ure  was  nude,  and 
the  prudish  monks  clothed  it  in  these  inharmonious 
t^arments.  'i'he  right  foot  has  a  bronze  shoe,  to  protect 
it  from  the  kisses  of  the  devout,  which  further  lessens 
the  majesty  of  tlie  figure. 

As  we  alighted  from  the  carriage  at  the  Church  of 
Santa  Maria  Maggiore.  a  picturescpie  ]:)easant  \\oman 
made  overtures  to  our  little  lUiddie.  who  wins  hearts 
everywhere  he  goes,  lie  was  highl}-  pleased  with  the 
bunch  of  \-iolets  she  gave  him.  This  church  is  one  of 
the  largest  and  handsomest  in  Rome.  Man}-  of  the 
Popes  are  buried  there.  What  interested  us  most  was 
that  the  ceiling  was  gilded  with  the  first  gold  brought 
from  America,  and  ])resented  to  the  church  bv  Ferdi- 
nand and  Isabella  of  S])ain.  In  one  of  the  cha])els  is 
an  ancient  ])icture  of  the  X'irgin.  now  almost  black,  re- 
j)uted  to  have  been  painted  by  v^t.  Luke. 

In  times  past,  San  (lioxanni  in  Laterano  was  the 
])rincipal  church  in  Rome.  I'nder  a  (lOthic  cano])y.  in 
the  centre  of  the  Transe])t.  a  number  of  relics  are  kept, 
among  which  are  said  to  be  the  heads  ot  Saints  l*eter 
and  i'aul.  This  church  was  undergoing  some  cleaning 
or  restoration,  and  ])art  of  it  was  boarded  oft.  'j'he 
Cloisters  are  beautiful  ;  there  is  a  little  garden  of  roses, 
surrounded  1)\-  fairy-like  twisted  and  inlaid  columns. 
The  IJaptistcr}-  on  the  ])la/-a  near  this  church  has  been 
used  as  a  model  for  all  buildings  of  this  kind  since  1  1<> 
.\.  1).  Think  of  it  I  .\  little  Roman  was  baptized  while 
we  were  there. 


ROL'XI)  rWE  WORLD  I X   SlLlvXCl': 


33 


Near  the  Lateran  is  the  edifice  which  contains  the 
Santa  Scala.  or  Jloly  Stairs,  a  fiiqht  of  t\vent}-ei<j;ht 
niarl)le  steps  which  were  l)roui;ht  from  the  palace  of 
Pilate  at  jerusaleni.  and  which  tradition  savs  our  Lord 
ascended.  They  were  broui^ht  to  Rome  by  the  J^ni- 
press  Helena  about  the  }ear  o2(i.  The}'  are  now 
co\-ered  o\-er   with   boards,  and   the   faithful   ascend  on 


KlIXS   Oi'    ■I'ill-:    I'.A'I'IIS   OI-    CARACAI.I.A 


their  knees,  sayin,^-  a  ])raycr  on  each  step.  After 
luncheon  we  dro\e  o\-er  to  the  Rei^io  I'alazzo  (Jniri- 
nali  as  we  had  a  ])ermit  to  see  the  ro\-al  ai)artinents. 
The  palace  is  so  un])retentious  outside,  that  it  is  liard 
to  realize  that  the  KiuL^s  of  Italy  ha\e  made  it  their 
home  for  the  last  twenty-five  years.  (  )nl\-  a  small  i)arl 
ol  the  palace  is  o])en  to  \isilors.  The  recei)tion  rooms, 
which  are  >hown.  are  \er\'  rich.     (  )n  lea\inu'  the  i)a]ace 


.u 


ROl'XI)  'I'll!'.   WORLD    1 X   SILIvXCl-: 


\vc  (Iroxc  out  of  tlic  cit}-.  ])asl  the  Colosseum,  lhrout;h 
tlie  Arch  of  Constantinc  and  aloni^"  the  Ap]Man  Way  to 
the  Catacombs  of  St.  Calixttis.  stoi)])inij,-  on  the  way  to 
visit  tlte  ruins  of  the  Ikiths  of  Coracalla. 

1  was  amazed  at  their  extent.  Walls  of  immense 
thickness,  Li'reat  halls  open  to  the  sky,  arched  i)assa;^"es. 
mosaic  ])a\emcnts,  and  frai^'mcnts  of  sculjjttu'ed  pillars 
still  remain.  Sixteen  hundred  ])eoi)le  could  be  ac- 
commodated at  one  time.  They  did  not  do  thing's  on 
a  small  scale  in  those  days  I 

The  dri\-e  to  the  Catacombs  is  cpiite  li>n^-.  I  had 
been  lookiui^'  forward  to  a  dri\e  in  the  cottntry,  and 
was  nuich  (lisa])pointed  to  tind  that  a  hii^ii  stone  wall, 
all  the  wa\-  on  each  side,  cut  off  the  \iew  entirel}'.  W'c 
ali_^iited  at  a  little  ,L;'ate  in  the  wall.  Inside,  a  br(Kid 
walk  leads  awa\'  across  the  fields  to  a  flower  !_;arden 
and  a  i^rotij)  of  little  stone  houses.  In  the  first  one  a 
monk  was  selling"  tickets  of  admission  to  the  Cata- 
combs. We  decided  that  we  would  all  .^o  down,  exen 
lUiddie.  I  was  a  little  bit  friiihlened,  for  I  had  heard 
harrowiuLi'  tales  of  ])eople  who  had  been  lo>t  in  the 
^ioom_\'  de])ths.  but  nothing'  could  ha\'e  made  me  cou- 
lees it.  Another  monk  joined  us  as  Li^uide,  and  ^axe 
each  one  oi  us  a  candle  the  size  of  a  lead  pencil  :  ihe^e 
were  all  lii^hted,  a  siL^ht  at  which  Ibiddie's  e_\  e--  ^rew 
lar^x-.  Then  we  started  for  the  next  little  >toiK'  house, 
which  turned  out  to  be  onK-  a  rodi  (ixer  a  de>cendiu^ 
stairway,  di)wn  which  we  crept  and  then  alimi;  a  ])as- 
^aL;'e-way  hewn  in  the  solid  rock.  .\'iche>  which  had 
once  been  tombs  hoiuwcombed  the  rock^  i  m  either  side 
Mere  and  theri'  were  chaml)er>  of  C(  m^iderable  --ize, 
containing"  >to]K-  cotyin>.  The  tloor>  in  the  ])a'^--a,L;c'- 
wa\    were   \ ciw    une\en.  and   thei"e    were   dark   ualK'rie^ 


ROUXD  THE  WORLD  IX  SILKXCE  35 

branching-  out  on  every  hand  :  our  candles  made  tiny 
spots  of  light  in  the  intense  darkness.  This  Catacomb 
has  four  galleries,  one  al)ove  another,  but  we  descended 
only  as  far  as  the  second,  'i'he  monk's  tales  of  the 
martyrs,  recited  in  those  black  tombs,  shook  us  with 
vi\i(l  realization  of  the  suffering  of  the  early  Christ- 
ians. So  many  were  killed :  in  one  niche,  a  whole 
family  of  seven  persons  had  been  found.  The  monk 
also  showed  us  the  spot  where  the  first  bishop  was 
laid.  All  the  niches  are  empty  now.  lUuldie  scorched 
his  hair  with  his  candle,  and  after  he  had  been  ])ut  to 
bed  that  night  was  heard  telling  his  horse  all  about  it. 
That  horse  goes  to  bed  with  him  every  night,  and  is 
becoming  a  most  highl}-  educated  beast.  llis  little 
master  tells  him  every  night  all  about  what  he  has 
seen  during  the  (la\-. 

A\'e  drove  along  the  A])pian  A\'ay  as  far  as  the  tomb 
of  Cecilia  Metella.  that  huge  circular  structure  with 
which  we  are  all  familiar  from  the  numerous  photo- 
graphs. Then,  as  the  sun  had  set  and  dusk  was  gath- 
ering, we  turned  back,  for  we  had  been  warned  not  to 
sta}-  outside  the  walls  of  the  city  after  dark. 

Another  morning  came,  and  was  devoted  to  the 
X'atican  (jaller_\-  and  ka])haers  Stanzo  and  Logge.  In 
the  first  named  there  is  not  a  great  collection  of 
pictures,  but  they  are  some  of  the  most  ])reci()us  in  the 
\\'orld.  The_\-  are  arranged  in  sexeral  rather  small 
rooms,  and  among  them  are  l\a])haers  glorious  Trans- 
tiguration  and  his  Madonna  da  h'oligno. 

The  I.ogge  is  a  gallery,  formerlv  open  to  the 
weather,  but  now  enclosed  with  glass.  The  ceiling  is 
divided  into  thirteen  sections  on  which  are  ])ainted 
scenes   irom   the    llible.     This  is  known  as  "  Kaphael's 


36  KOUXD  Till':   WORLD    l\   SIIJCXCI': 

l)ible  ".  P^irther  on  are  tlie  series  of  rooms  called 
Raphael's  v^tan/.e,  once  used  as  state  apartments  by 
the  Po])es.  The  frescoes  in  these  rooms  have  the  repu- 
tation of  bcinj^'  the  best  of  that  master's  work,  and  deal 
with  events  in  the  li\es  of  various  Poj^es.  After  this 
we  spent  a  ne\er-to-l)e-fori;"otten  hour  in  the  v^istine 
Chapel.  ( )n  our  last  afternoon  in  Rome  we  went  to 
the  Church  of  the  Ca])])uccini.  In  the  basement  of 
this  church  are  the  burial  vaults  of  the  Capuchins. 
I'nlike  most  of  these  ^•aults.  this  is  abo\-e  i^round,  and 
is  a  loni;-  i^allerw  clearl_\-  lii^iited  by  a  row  of  large 
grated  windows  along  one  side.  The  hoor  of  this  gal- 
lery is  of  earth  brought  from  Jerusalem.  —  a  burial 
])lace  not  onl\-  consecrated  but  holy.  Hut  in  this  lim- 
ited s])ace  there  is  not  room  for  the  bodies  of  all  who 
ha\e  lived  and  died  in  the  monastery  alone,  and  so 
each  new  Ixul}'  is  given  the  ])lace  of  the  one  longest 
buried.  Some  monks  of  a  long  past  generation  con- 
cei\-ed  the  idea  of  using  these  de])osed  skeletons  as 
decorations  for  the  room,  a  grotescpie  and  horril)le 
fantasy  \^•hich  has  been  carried  on  until  the  ])lace  now 
has  the  appearance  of  ha\-ing  been  built  up  of  human 
skulls  and  bones  geometricallv  laid,  .\ltar,  chande- 
liers, tlie  walls  whicli  mark  ott  the  burial  alcoxes.  the 
arched  entrance  to  the  recesses,  all  are  Iniilt  u])  of 
human  bones  bound  together  b\-  cement.  In  skull- 
lined  niches  stand  the  l)ro\\n-rol)e(l  and  hooded  skele- 
tons of  those  who  ha\'e  been  noted  men  in  the  order. 
The  monks  seem  to  rejoice  that  the\-  shall  some  (la\- 
rest  here:  but  to  us  the  ])lace  was  so  dismal  and  so 
unner\-ing  that  we  hurried  out  to  the  cheerful  shops 
and  di\-erte(l  ovu'  minds  b\-  tumbling  o\er  the  s<Tft. 
rich-colored    Roman  sashes;  aiul  after  that  a  tea  with 


ROUXD  Till*.   WORM)   1  X   SlLFA'CIv  37 

an  American  friend  and   a  \isit  to  Crandon    llall.  the 
Alethodist    ColleL;e    for    women.    (lro\e    away    tlie    last 

traces  of  gloom.     At  Crandon  J  Jail,  we  all  shook  hands 

with   the   granddaughter  of  Garibaldi.     She   is   one   (^f 

the  teachers  there. 


38 


ROUXi:)  Tll]<:  WORLD   IX  SILEXCK 


Tlic  Continental 


>tel.  C\'iin». 


R().M1^  was  just  waking'  u])  to  a  new  (la\  when 
the  "  l*"ainihie  lirown  ",  as  the  Italians  at  the 
hotels  call  us.  drove  through  the  city  to  take  the 
eis^iit  o'clock  train  for  Jirindisi.  There  was  conster- 
nation in  our  omnibus;  somebody  had  lost  a  ticket, 
and  a  wild  search  throui^ii  ])ockets  and  liandbaL^s  was 
carried  on  to  no  ])urpose.  A  tele])hone  from  the  sta- 
tion to  the  hotel  brous^ht  the  answer:  \'es.  somethinLi' 
had  been  found:  and,  after  ex])ectant  \vaitin<4',  a  smil- 
int;-  boy  on  a  bicycle  broui^ht  triumphantly  forth  from 
his  ])ockets  —  a  ])air  of  old  slippers!  And  thus  we 
lett   Rome. 

The  tri])  we  had  ])lanned  to  the  1  lol\-  Land  had  to 
be  L^ixen  u]>.  There  is  ])er])etual  (piarantine  between 
Lort  Said  and  jatia,  two  daws"  dela\-  at  each  ])lace. 
That  ^vo^dd  make  us  miss  the  China,  on  which  our  ])as- 
sai^'e  tor  Colondx)  had  been  taken  louj^'  ago.  h  miglit 
be  months  before  we  could  seciu'e  berths  again  for  our 
whole  ])art_\-.  and  we  had  no  desire  to  sojourn  long  in 
Lort  Said.  There  are  no  ])laces  of  interest  to  us  there; 
it  is  onl\-  a  sort  of  half-wa\-  station  for  tra\ellers  who 
come  in  on  one  steamer  and  lea\e  on  the  next.  The 
>treets  are  lull  ol  hurrxing  ])eoi)le  :  not  such  a  crowd 
as  one  sees  e]>ewliere.  —  all  nati\e.'>  exce])l  hw  a  lew 
I'.nglish  tourists.  Here  there  are  twenty  nationalities, 
and  there  are  men  on  business,  shippers  and  trader> 
and    agents,    as    well    as    mere    pleasure    seekers.       L    is 


ROl'X'I)  'IMll'.   WORLD    IX   SIIJ':\CI".  30 

aiiuisiti^'  to  read  the  sii^ns  aloni;'  the  street.  —  lM"eneh, 
IVirttii^iiese,  Diiteh.  —  iiiaiiv  in  strange  letters  tliat  we 
eould  not  ex'en  L;tiess  at.  h'nnniest  of  all  was  the  niee 
(li\"ision  ot  honors  on  the  street  cars;  "  Trainwax'  de 
I 'ort   v'^aid  ""  t]ie\-   were  lahelled. 

'Idle   train   ride   ol    toin"  and   a   half  hotirs    from    I  *orl 
."^aid   to  (.'airo  was  delii^ht  fid.  in   si)ite  of  the  fine  sand 


l'(  )IM'   SAI  I) 


that  hiew  in  at  the  windows  and  eoxered  e\-er\thinL;'. 
I'or  more  than  an  hour  the  Suez  Canal  was  in  si^hl  ; 
then  we  ran  alon^'  heside  wide  fu'lds  of  corn  or  eoltun. 
and  a>  w  c-  ate  our  Inneheon  in  tlu'  eoinlortahle  dininij, 
car  w  (.■  loiikt'd  out  ()n  lile  which  mnsl  ha\c'  been  nnudi 
tlu'  >ame  in  (  )ld  Testamenl  da\s,  the  fellaheen  plowing; 
<ir  di^L;inL;'  tln'ir  fields  1)\'  hand,  and  hiindfi  ildrd  cattle 
workinv   the   windlass  thai   drtw\    water  fri  nn    the   wi'll>. 


40 


ROUXD  TllK  WORLD  IX  SILHXCK 


Uetwecn  tlie  fields  and  the  train  was  a  wide  irrigating 
ditcli.  in  wliicli  thick  ])atclies  of  lottis  grew.  On  the 
other  side  of  tlie  (Htch  a  road  was  raised  liigh  above 
the  tiehls.  Along  this  road  tlowed  a  continuous  stream 
of  life,  —  camels,  donkexs.  ])eoi)le  on  foot  or  riding, 
children  ])la\ing.  m\-  lord  riding  a  loaded  camel,  mv 
lady  trudging  at  his  side.  It  was  the  time  of  the  great 
.Mohammedan  holiday,  the  least  ot  Ramadan.  Cairo 
was  the  centre  of  attraction:  and  at  e\er\-  station 
crowds  struggled  to  get  on  board. 

The  Continental  is  one  of  the  largest  of  the  Cairo 
hotels,  and  as  this  is  the  height  of  the  season,  one 
might  almost  fanc_\'  oneself  in  JCngland,  if  it  \vere  not 
for  the  -Arab  and  French  servants.  Cairo  is  a  fasci- 
nating ])lace.  It  woidd  be  long  before  I  sh(jtdd  tire  of 
watching  the  life  on  the  streets.  .Vrabs,  in  long  flow- 
ing robes,  jews.  Mohammedans,  tall  black  men  from 
the  Soudan.  J^ngiish  soldiers,  officers.  English  ladies, 
donkeys,  tram  cars,  and  handsome  carriages  all  mingle 
in  confusion.  Xew  Cairo  has  beautiftd,  wide,  shady 
streets,  and  handsome  btiildings:  but  old  Cairo  is  e\en 
more  interesting,  with  its  narrow  streets  swarming 
with  life,  its  tall  houses  with  their  dungeon-like  room> 
opening  directh'  onto  the  street,  and  their  u])])er  lloors 
of  Coarse  lattice  work,  through  which  dark  e\es  shine, 
its  bazaars  with  their  rtigs  and  oriental  ctu'ios.  and  the 
])eo])le  tliemsel\-es.  —  here  a  water-carrier  with  his 
goatskin  full  of  water,  there  a  swarthy  man  in  a  huge 
green  turban,  and  there  again  some  lledouius  in  llow- 
ing  bernouses.  The  street  is  a  mo\ing  mass  of  color. 
It  is  Comical  to  >ee  men  in  long  white  robes  riding  ( m 
doid<eys  so  small  that  the  man's  feet  almost  touch  the 
ground.     Then  there  are  scores  of  two-wheeled  (lonke\- 


ROUXD  THE  WORLD   IX  SIIJ-.XCK 


41 


carts.  (Ml  whicli  are  s([uattins;"  a  half  dozen  black-robed 
women,  uitli  black  \eils  fastened  to  their  noses  bv  a 
y'old  spiral.  lleside  the  (lonke_\-  walks  the  master  of 
the  harem. 

We  saw  the  s])ot   where   Moses  is  sui)])ose(l  to  ha\e 
been  tound.  and  a  hotise  Iniilt  where  .Mary  and  Joseph 


A  \i:ii.i:i)  MoiiAM  M  i;i).\.\  wo  max 


with  the  inlant  Jesus  are  said  to  ha\e  rested  on  their 
lliL^ht  into  l-",L;y])t.  We  ha\e  also  been  to  the  .Moscpie 
Stiltan  lla>>an.  a  colossal  building;',  but  in  a  rttiiious 
cnndition.  Workmen  were  there  restoriiiL;'  it,  and  they 
■-ho\\A'<l  U--  a  wonderlul  door  of  bronze  and  siKer. 
'rhi>  Abixpie  is  not  far  from  the  Citadel,  to  which  we 
proceed(.-(l    lu'xt,    .^oiiiL;'    through    tin-    L:,atiw\a\     and    uj) 


42 


ROfXI)  THE  WORLD  1  X'  SILK  NX  K 


the  steep  and  narrow  road  which  was  the  scene  of  the 
massacre  of  the  Marmeluke  lie^s.  Tliere  is  a  glorious 
\-iew  from  a  corner  of  the  fortifications.  Tlie  Alabaster 
.MoS(|ue  is  witliin  tliese  walls,  and  wliile  the  rest  went 
in,  l^)nddie  and  1  sat  in  the  carriaL^e  and  had  the  amnse- 
ment  of  watching"  jjctiple  take  off  and  pnt  on  their 
shoes  as  the\-  went  in  or  came  out.  W  hen  the  rest 
came  back,  we  took  our  turn,  Iluddie  in  his  stocking- 
feet,  and  I  \vith  a  hu^e  pair  of  yellow  slipi^ers  tied  on 
over  my  shoes.  'I'his  .Mos(|ue  is  the  btudal  place  of 
Mehemet  Ali,  the  Stdtan  who  ordered  the  massacre  of 
the  Marmehikes. 

Most  wonderful  of  all.  we  have  seen  the  Pyramids. 
I  can  hardly  realize  that  it  is  not  a  dream.  We  drove 
acr(.)ss  the  city  to  the  electric  tram\\a\'.  which  starts 
from  tlie  other  side  of  the  I\iser-en-Xil  brid^'e.  and 
were  soon  s]nnnin^'  awav  alonj^'  a  tine,  broad.  \vell-ke])t 
road,  on  one  side  shaded  by  lars^e  trees,  and  on  the 
(tther  side  flanked  1)\'  a  hiiih  stone  wall,  behind  \\hicli 
we  had  an  occasional  ])ee])  at  a  stuccoed  \illa  in  its 
L^'arden.  or  at  wide  areas  of  land  under  water,  h'ather 
Xile  is  doinj4'  well  for  the  c<iuntr\'  this  \ear.  .Ml  the 
while  the  distant  Pyramids  lured  us  on.  These  are 
known  as  the  Pyramids  of  (ihizeh.  .\t  the  end  of  the 
car  line,  a  crowd  of  l%;.4y])tians  with  camels  and 
donkeys  were  in  waiting",  and  our  i^uide  soon  had  u-- 
all  mounted  on  camels  with  a  boy  to  lead  t-acli  beast. 
I  had  a  nice,  clean,  intelligent-^  m  )kin^'  bow  but  I  ap- 
])roache(l  the  camel  allotted  me  with  some  tre])i(lation. 
It  was  >ittin,L;"  on  the  .ground  and  turned  a  kindh  e\e 
on  me  a>  I  came  u])  :  all  there  w  a>  for  me  to  do  was  to 
arrange  myself  in  the  saddle.  .My  boy  |(»oked  at  me 
eni'ouraL'inpK-,  showed  me  the  proi)er  wa\'  to  hold  on. 


ROrXD  Till':  WORLD   IX   SILKXCI-: 


43 


by  i^raspin^-  tlie  horn  of  the  saddle  in  front  with  i)ne 
hand,  and  that  in  the  rear  with  the  other,  v^o  far  all 
went  well,  then  came  the  sur])rise  of  my  life.  —  a  ter- 
ri])le  eartlu|nake  bes^an  as  m_\-  beast  untanj^led  his  front 
lei4S.  and  then  as  I  still  stuck  on.  thoiii^h  much  on  the 
bias,  another  earth(|uake  behind  followed  and  there  I 
was  away  up  in  the  air.  with  m\-  mount  standing'  on 
all  four  feet.  ( )nce  mo\in<4".  it  was  perfectly  delii^ht- 
fid.  Xo  ((ueen  u])<in  her  throne  cotdd  ha\e  been  ha])- 
j)ier  than  1  as  1  rode  up  the  hillside,  enjoyini^'  the  gentle 
motion,  and  the  beatitiful  view  that  unrolled  itself  as 
we  went  alon^-.  We  did  not  stop  at  the  Pyramid  on 
the  to])  of  the  hill,  but  went  on.  descending"  on  the 
other  side  into  the  hollow  in  which  the  S])hinx  lies. 
The  figure  has  been  so  luutilated  that  it  has  lost  much 
of  the  impassixe  character  it  must  ha\e  had.  Xear  by 
is  the  Temple  of  tlie  vS])liinx.  nearh'  cox'ered  bv  the 
drittim^-  sand.  —  a  wonderful  ])lace  built  of  huj^e 
blocks  ol  granite  lour  or  hxe  feet  thick  and  ti\e  or  six 
teet  loni^".  1  wonder  how  those  immense  blocks  of 
stone  were  brouiiiit  to  the  desert.  The\-  are  not  joined 
><|uarely.  but  with  the  corners  hewn  from  the  stone. 
(  )ne  of  the  chand)ers  was  lined  with  huL^e  blocks  of 
r(iu,!_;ii  alabaster. 

i\idin^"  around  the  (ireat  I'xramid  one  is  im])ressed 
by  it>  immcnsilw  It  is  said  to  cnxer  thirteen  acres  ol 
ground.  .Mr.  lirowu.  with  a  retinue  of  iy<4\ptians  to 
])U>h  and  ])ull  him,  be^an  the  ascent.  The  rest  ot  us. 
contcnl  to  allow  him  <dl  the  ^iorw  turned  our  laces 
cit\\\ard.  >top])in^'  (jII  the  tramwax'.  when  half  way 
ther(.\  to  \isit  the  Zoological  (larden.  Then  I'.uddie 
wa<  lia])])\- I  Such  a  beautilul  L^arden  it  was.  too,  with 
it--  luxuriance  of  tlowcr--.  huLic  hibiscus,  canna  six   leet 


44  ROUXD  THE  WORLD  IX  SILKXCE 

hig"li.  roses  and  jessamine,  its  \von(lerful  grottoes,  its 
walks  |)a\-e(l  with  mosaic  of  pel)l)les  of  different  colors. 
IWit  most  interesting-  of  all.  to  me.  was  the  crowd  of 
holiday  makers,  little  girls  in  ga}-  ruhied  dresses,  black- 
clad  women  with  \cils  across  the  lower  part  of  the 
face.  —  does  that  s])iral  fastening'  the  \'eil  to  the  nose 
hnrt.  1  wonder.  —  men  and  l)oys  attired  in  red  fez. 
red  sli])])ers.  and  an  l{nro])ean  coat  over  a  flannel  or 
calico  ".Mother  llnhbard""  that  came  down  to  the 
ankles.  \'esterda\-  we  took  the  trip  to  v^akhara.  I 
had  breakfast  \er\  early  in  order  to  have  time  to  go 
and  bu}-  a  straw  outing  hat  before  starting.  There 
were  several  P>ench  milliners  near  the  hotel,  but  all 
their  attendants  were  Orientals.  Perha])s  Madame  had 
not  }-et  risen,  anyway  J  had  an  interesting  time  trying 
to  make  ni}'  wants  understood.  'Jdiey  insisted  on 
showing  me  their  most  elaborate  creations,  but  per- 
sistence, plain  ]{ngiish,  and  some  French  n(jt  so  plain, 
finally  won  the  day.  and  I  hurried  back  to  the  hotel 
much  elated.  The  express  train  for  IJedrasheen  leaves 
Cairo  at  half  past  nine,  and  it  is  a  ride  of  an  hour.  We 
left  the  train  at  a  little  station  full  of  natives,  and,  as 
the  donke}s  for  which  our  guide  had  arranged  were 
waiting,  we  were  soon  mounted  and  cantering  away. 
Iledrasheen  itself  is  on  the  bank  of  a  little  ri\-er.  and 
is  a  t}'])ical  nati\e  xillage  of  low  mud  houses,  whose 
inhabitants  were  ])ursuing  their  \arious  occu])ations 
in  the  narrow  street.  Thev  e\ed  us  with  great  curi- 
osity as  we  ])assed.  To  add  to  the  interest,  a  train  of 
loaded  camels  came  aroimd  a  corner:  the  inhabitants 
already  on  the  groinid  ])aid  no  attention  to  recpiests  to 
nio\e.  and  as  the  camels  stayed  not  for  man  or  beast, 
we  had  almost   to  climb  the  walls,  donkeys  and  all,  to 


ROUXI)  Tlll^   WORLD   1  \   SIIJ-.XCI-.  43 

get  out  of  the  way.  ( )nce  clear  of  the  \illai4e  the  road 
lav  along"  a  high  hank,  looking"  down  on  flooded  fields 
on  either  hand,  where  men  were  at  work  in  the  thick 
hlack  nuid.  One  could  hut  marvel  at  their  exceeding 
patience,  digging"  over  those  wide  fields  hy  hand. 
After  half  an  hour  of  riding  along  this  high  hank, 
which  wound,  serpent-wise,  across  the  fields,  we  came 
to  more  level  ground  dotted  with  scattered  palm  trees. 
Two  colossal  statues  of  Rameses  II.  the  I'haraoh  of 
the  Israelites,  are  in  this  grcne.  A\'e  came  first  to  the 
smaller  statue,  standing"  free  and  unwatched  in  the 
open  air.  A  little  farther  on  is  the  other,  which  has 
heen  covered  by  a  high  wooden  shed  in  order  that  an 
admission  fee  may  be  charged.  It  reminded  me  of  a 
ponderous  side  show  left  stranded  by  some  circus.  An 
undignified  idea,  wasn't  it?  lUit  it  was  still  more  like 
one  inside,  where  a  stairwax"  led  up  to  a  bridge  from 
which  we  looked  down  at  the  great  statue  fiat  on  the 
g"round.  After  leaxing  the  little  grove,  our  path  lay 
through  the  ruins  of  Memphis,  one  of  the  oldest  cities 
in  the  world.  The  prophecy  of  Jeremiah  that  Memidiis 
should  become  a  desert  has  been  fulfilled.  Almost 
nothing  reniains  of  the  city.  After  leaxing  Mem])his 
\\"e  soon  came  to  high  sand  hills,  and  rode  through  the 
desolate  sand,  u])  and  on  in  the  l)urning  sun,  imtil  we 
came  to  a  dee])  cut  in  the  hill,  walled  with  masonry  on 
either  side.  This  was  the  entrance  to  tlie  Tond)  of 
.\lera,  who  was.  according  to  the  guide  book,  an 
lygyptian  ofiicial  of  rank,  about  .'i(Mi(i  |',.  C.  its  cham- 
bers are  richl}-  decorated  with  ])aintings  and  bas- 
relief:-  recording  the  \"arious  interests  and  occu])ations 
of  the  dead  Mera.  In  one  painting  Mcra  is  ])laying 
chess.  —  chess    three    thousand    \-cars    before    Christ  I 


4() 


ROL'XI)  Til  I',   WORLD    1  X   SILK.XCl': 


One  can  trace  tlie  whole  life  of  the  ancient  l^j^'^-ptians 
here.  eatiuL;'.  fis^'htin^',  holdins:^"  a  lotus  tl()\ver.  In  some 
])laces  Mcra  is  colossal,  surrounded  by  smaller  fi^'ures. 


(  ).\    Till-;    WAN     •!(  )    M  l-:.\l  I'll  I: 


a    naixe    \\ay    of   ])ointin<4'   out    the    ditterence    between 
him  and  his  subordinates. 

Mountini^'  a^ain.  we   rode  on   to  the  Tomb  of  i)riest 
Thi.  which  is  almost  coxered  with  sand:  ihe  excaxation 


ROUXD  THE  WORLD  IX  SILEXCE  47 

to  tlic  entrance,  like  that  to  the  '1\mii1)  of  Mera.  is 
l)anke(l  up  with  masonry  to  hold  back  the  drifting 
sand.  Inside,  also,  this  tomb  resembles  that  of  Mera. 
but  it  is  more  elaborate,  and  the  colors  of  the  paintings 
are  wonderfully  vivid,  while  those  in  M era's  tomb  are 
rather  dull.  Another  ride  over  the  drifted  sand,  and 
we  came  to  the  excavation  before  the  entrance  to  the 
Serapeum,  where  the  mummies  of  the  sacred  bulls 
were  buried.  Inside  there  is  a  high,  wide  gallery,  with 
rockv  walls.  Our  guide  was  provided  with  candles 
and  a  torch,  which  shed  a  feeble  light  on  the  intense 
darkness  :  and  we  stumbled  over  the  uneven  floors  and 
through  long  dark  galleries,  until  we  came  t(^  the  series 
of  chambers,  on  either  side  of  a  gallery,  in  w  hich  the 
mummies  were  found.  There  are  over  twenty  of  these 
chambers,  each  containing  a  huge  stone  sarcophagus 
about  fourteen  feet  long  and  ten  feet  high,  in  one  of 
the  chambers  a  ladder  had  been  ])lace(l  at  the  side  of 
the  coffin,  and  its  co\-er  had  been  moved  back.  One 
1)_\-  one.  we  climbed  the  ladder,  to  look  down  on  — 
em])tiness.  This  mausoleum  was  discovered  l)y  Alari- 
ette.  the  celebrated  Egyptologist,  in  LSfid.  and  the  stone 
coffins  are  said  to  weigh  sixty-five  tons  each.  What 
wonderful  skill  and  restnircefulness  those  ancient 
J{gy|)tians  had  I  The  guide  told  me  that  when  Mari- 
ette  first  entered  one  of  these  tombs  he  found  in  the 
sand  that  cox'cred  the  floor,  the  footprints  of  the  work- 
men wIk).  thirt\-se\en  hundred  }ears  before,  had  laid 
the  mumm\-  in  its  tond)  and  closed  the  tond).  — 
never,  the}-  thought,  to  be  o])ene(l. 

We  ate  our  luncheon  in  the  loneK'  little  house  in  the 
desert,  once  used  b\-  Marielte.  It  was  a  rude  little 
place,    stable   and    rest-house   all    imder   one    mof.      (  )u 


48 


ROrXI)  THE  WORLD   IX   SILI".XCI<: 


dismountins^'  from  our  donkeys.  \vc  walked  into  a  lar^-e 
room.  0])en  on  tliree  sides,  and  furnished  with  loni;" 
wooden  tables  and  benches.  This  was  already  ])retty 
well  tilled  with  t(mrists.  Our  j^uide  captured  the  first 
em|)t\-  table,  and  was  soon  arran,L;inii"  linen,  china  and 
silver  from  the  lunch  crates  he  had  brouj^ht  from  the 
Continental  Hotel.  It  was  a  nice  luncheon,  and  our 
strenuous  morning-  had  ])rei)ared  us  to  do  it  full  jus- 
tice. 1  Avas  very  anxious  to  i^xT  some  pictures  of  our 
])art\-  on  the  donkevs.  but  our  i^'uide  would  not  stop 
for  anvthing':  he  hustled  tis  on  to  our  donkevs  and 
started  the  cax'alcade  as  soon  as  ^\•c  finished  eating'. 
1  wish  \'ou  could  have  seen  our  ])rocessi()n !  There 
A\ere  the  six  of  us  on  donkeys,  and  the  guide  on  an- 
other, a  man  to  run  beside  and  belabor  each  beast, 
two  more  men  to  carr\-  the  crates  of  luncheon,  another 
man  to  carry  my  twine  bag'.  It  was  a  \vonder  that  no 
more  men  had  insisted  on  g'oing  with  us.  We  made 
the  return  journey  b\'  a  shorter  and  easier  wa\-.  and 
])assed  the  Ste])  I'}-rami(l.  su])pose(l  to  l)e  the  <_)!desl 
historic  l)uil(ling'  in  the  world.  W  hen  we  reached  the 
road  again,  oiu'  donkex'  bo\'s  whi])])e(l  up  our  beasts 
to  the  best  of  their  speed,  and  as  the\-  e\identl\-  knew 
the}'  were  on  the  home  stretch  thc\'  were  willing  to 
g'o.  We  l)um])e(l  and  ])ounded  along.  It  was  great 
lun.  and  \  am  sure  that  for  ])eo])le  \\'ho  had  ne\er  been 
donkc}'  riding  before,  we  did  remarkabl\'  well,  liedra- 
shecn  station  was  reached  about  fifteen  minutes  before 
our  train  \vas  due.  and  on  the  homeward  ride  we  had 
beautiful  \'iews  of  the  sunset  on  the  .X'ile  and  the 
Pyramids.  At  one  ])lace.  when  the  train  sto|)pe(l.  I 
saw  a  .Mohanimedan  sa\'ing'  his  i)ra\ers  while  waiting 
lur  his  train,      lie  spread  out  a  bit  of  cari)el.  and.  la_\  - 


ROLWI)  Till';   WORIJ)    l\   SIM'.XCI': 


49 


iii!^-  liis  I)iiiulk'  and  stall  down  l)esi(le  il,  knell  there  in 
the  midst  ot  the  erowd.  ]lis  train  eoniint^'  as  lie  was 
in  the  midst  of  his  dexotions,  he  slathered  uj)  hnndle, 
staff  and  earpet  and  made  a  wild  lea])  aboard. 

The}'  tell  me  it  is  most  interesting-  to  hear  the 
\arious  lanL^tiayes.  h'm^lisli.  h'rench.  Arable.  Rnssian 
and  Soudanese  bein^'  spoken  around  us  all  the  time. 


x   i;c.xi''i'.     ■  ox  •nil-;  w  \x'  'I'o  sakiiaka 


The  l'",i;\i)tian  nionex'  is  more  ditfieult  to  understand 
than  an\-  I  e\er  saw  belore.  I  do  not  know  what 
woidd  ha\e  beeome  ot  me  il  1  liad  not  had  a  eard 
;_;i\-en  me  at  I 'ort  v^aid  with  i)ietures  of  the  \-arions 
coins,  thc'  exaet  size  of  the  real  article.  These  cards 
ha\c  hel])ed  me  through  man\-  a  diriiculty.  We  have 
a  .L;'uide  who  .L;oes  e\er}- where  with  us,  but  I  ha\-e  been 
out   ^hoppiuL;  alone  twice  in  the  region  near  the  hotel. 


50 


ROL'XI)  'IMIIC   WORIJ)    IX   SILICXCI", 


1  boui^lit  ])()stal  cards  yesterday  at  a  tin}'  sho])  near 
])\  :  tlie  1)<)\'  was  \er\'  intelligent,  I  had  niv  coin  card 
A\ith  me.  and  1)\-  its  means  we  i^'ot  on  niceh-  oxer  tlie 
mone}-. 

'Idiis  morning'  e\ery  one  e.\ce])t  me  went  to  clun'cli. 
The  serxice  was  all  in  .Arabic,  they  say.  1  )own  the 
middle  of  the  eluirch  ran  a  red  cnrtain.  di\idin<^'  it  into 
two  ])arts.  On  one  side  of  this  cm'lain  sat  the  men. 
on  the  other  side  the  Avomen.  Onite  an  imi)ro\ement 
on  Onaker  fashion,  isn't  it?  ( )ne  can't  e\en  look 
across  the  aisle. 


ROL'N'D  THE  WORLD   IX  SILE.XCK  51 


VI 

P.  and  O.  S.  S.  China,  in  the  Indian  Ocean. 

BEFORE  we  land  in  Colombo,  1  want  to  tell  you 
about  the  rest  of  our  time  in  Egypt,  and  about 
our  voyage. 
We  had  to  rise  betimes  that  last  morning  of  our 
sta_\-  in  Cairo.  On  account  of  the  fete  of  Ramadan,  the 
world-famed  Afuseum  had  been  closed  ever  since  our 
arrival,  and  it  was  to  reopen  that  morning.  After  we 
had  wrestled  with  the  Turkish  money  in  paying  our 
hotel  bills,  and  pre])ared  evervthing  for  our  departure, 
we  set  out  for  the  Museum.  'J'he  fact  that  its  official 
catalogue  tills  ten  Nolumes  will  gi\e  vou  an  idea  of  its 
size,  consecpiently  \vc  tried  to  see  the  part  of  the  col- 
lection most  interesting  to  us,  the  mummies  of  the 
I'haraohs  and  of  the  sacred  bulls  whose  tombs  we  had 
in\aded  at  v^akdiara.  It  was  hard  to  realize  that  we 
were  actually  gazing  on  the  features  of  the  Pharaohs 
of  the  Op])ression  and  of  the  Exodus,  'idiere  is  no  hint 
of  the  mightiness  and  glory  of  the  Egyptians  in  these 
shri\-elled.  soulless  bodies,  stacked  and  labelled  for 
cooll}-  interested  ins])ection.  It  was  getting  dark  when 
we  got  out  of  otu"  rowboats  at  the  China's  gangway, 
and  ascended  to  her  crowded,  brillianth'-lighted  decks. 
.My  roommate  is  a  jolly  voung  kjigiish  lady  en  route 
I'rom  London  to  join  her  husband  at  liangkok.  ( )m- 
room  is  large  and  well  situated,  but  not  as  con- 
\enienll_\-  arranged  as  the  one  I  had  on  the  Irene: 
there    are    no    wardrobes,    S()    we    ha\e    a    great    time 


52  ROUXD  THK   WORLD   I  X   SILEXCF. 

jnillint;"  our  trunks  out  frc^m  under  the  l^erths  when- 
ever we  want  anything-,  and  then  ])ushin,g-  them  back 
again.  Luckilv  for  us.  we  ha\-e  an  upper  deck  room, 
so  the  heat  has  not  l:)een  unbearable  but  our  friends 
whose  rooms  are  on  the  lower  deck  have  suiTered  all 
the  way.  ddiere  are  only  ten  of  us  Americans  in  the 
first  cabin. 

The  dining  saloon  is  really  a  very  ])retty  sight.  The 
English  ladies  all  wear  such  beautiful  dresses  and 
jewels.  The  China  plies  between  London,  Australia 
and  Xew  Zealand,  so  it  is  a  long  journey  for  some  of 
these  i)eople.  I  had  ni}-  introdtiction  to  the  punkah 
the  first  evening  at  dinner.  It  is  a  long  board  done  up 
in  a  ruffled  case,  and,  by  an  arrangement  of  ropes,  it  is 
kept  in  motion  by  a  boy  outside  the  door;  the  cooling- 
breeze  it  makes  is  most  welcome. 

The  steamer  waited  at  Port  Said  until  afternoon  for 
the  arrival  of  the  Osiris  with  the  mails,  and  all  morn- 
ing the  decks  looked  like  an  Oriental  bazaar,  for  the 
people  fron-i  shore  were  allowed  to  bring  their  wares 
on  board  and  there  \\-as  such  an  array  of  jewelry,  laces, 
embroidery,  glittering'  sih'er-wrought  shawls,  and 
postal  cards  spread  out  on  the  deck,  that  we  had  to 
n-iove  carefully  not  to  ste])  on  something.  Over  the 
side.  ])0}-s  were  di\-ing-  for  pennies,  and  boats  with 
screnadcrs  surrounded  us.  About  two  o'clock  the 
decks  were  cleared,  and  we  began  to  move.  It  to(-)k 
us  all  night  to  go  through  the  Caiial.  though  it  is  only 
a  hundred  miles  long.  The  man  who  knows  e\-ery- 
thing  told  us  it  costs  .SHi.noo  to  get  a  shi])  the  size  of 
the  China  through,  and  that  it  was  not  I  )c  Lesseps. 
but  an  I'jiglishman  named  A\  aghorn  who  c*)ncei\'ed 
the  idea  nf  that  canal,  but  as  he  died  some  \ears  before 


ROUXD  TMK  WORLD   I  X  SILEXCK  53 

the  work  was  begun.  De  Lesseps  had  all  the  glory. 
About  nine  o'cl(K^k  \ve  came  to  a  stop,  and  had  a  long 
wait  while  a  number  of  war  vessels  passed  us.  Thev 
came  out  of  the  darkness  into  the  glare  of  our  search- 
light, and  faded  into  the  darkness  again,  like  phantoms. 
There  was  not  a  soul  visible  t)n  their  decks. 

W  hen  1  woke  in  the  morning  we  had  stopped  at 
Suez,  in  the  Red  Sea.  at  the  end  of  the  canal.  What 
we  could  see  of  the  town  from  the  ship  was  alluring, 
but  the  sto])  was  n(^t  long  enough  to  allow  going 
ashore.  1  think  the  Red  Sea  must  have  taken  its 
name  from  the  beautiful  coloring  of  the  low  uKJuntain 
ranges  that  border  its  shores,  for  its  waters  are  a 
brit^ht  sap])hire  blue.  The  only  sign  of  life  anywhere 
was  at  the  Wells  of  Moses.  The  hills  around  there  are 
sandy,  and  a  little  fringe  of  trees  marks  the  fountains 
or  wells.  This  is  the  spot  where  tradition  places  the 
crossing  of  the  Children  of  Israel. 

We  reached  .Vden  at  six  o'clock  in  the  evening.  A 
few  mimites  later  the  mcxjn  rose.  We  could  see  onl\- 
the  sihery  ripjde  of  the  water,  the  dim  harbor  outlines, 
and  the  dark  mountains  on  the  shore,  dotted  with 
twinkling  lights. 

The  llombay  steamer  was  at  anchor  near  us.  and  a 
hundred  and  twenty  of  our  ])assengers  were  trans- 
lerred  to  her.  The  guide-book  speaks  of  this  trans- 
shipment as  being  \ery  un])leasant  ;  but  it  cerlainK' 
did  not  look  so  at  this  time,  for  when  the  tender 
sailed  awa_\-  trom  us.  full  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  in 
e\-ening  dress,  it  seemed  as  if  the\-  were  merel\-  going 
over  for  a  dance.  I  was  greatl\-  interested  in  watching 
the  unloading  of  the  cargo.  Huge  baskets  filled  with 
long   whitish   blocks   were   beinu'  raised    from    the   hold 


54 


ROUXl)  TlIK  WORLD  TX   SILEXCK 


and  carefully  lowered  ox'er  the  side.  ISelow  were  sc\'- 
eral  hui^e  tlal-bottomed  Ixiats.  in  which  some  half 
dozen  busln-lieaded  nati\-es,  simpl}-  attired  in  brace- 
lets, were  dancini^'.  and  at  intervals  ^iancini^-  n])  at  the 
descending'  baskets.  W  hen  the  baskets  came  within 
reach,  they  would  i)ause  in  their  dance  lon^'  enough  to 
seize  them,  take  out  the  blocks,  and  lay  them  in  rows 
that  i^'listened  in  the  moonlii^ht.  We  ([uestioned  a 
])assinf4'  officer.  "  liar  siher  from  America",  he  an- 
swered. Further  alons^'  more  black  men.  in  a  row- 
boat,  were  doin^'  a  brisk  trade  in  ^aily-colored  ^rass 
baskets,  which  were  beini^'  drawn  u])  to  our  deck  bv  a 
ro])e,  the  monev  beini^"  lowered  in  another  1)asket. 
Other  natixes  had  inxaded  the  deck,  and  were  selling;" 
ostrich  feathers  and  fans.  Now  the\-  had  manaj^ed  to 
climb  the  towerini^'  side  with  their  fragile  burden  was 
something-  1  could  not  understand.  Altogether  the 
three  hoiu's  of  our  sta\-  at  Aden  were  full  of  excite- 
ment and  interest. 

Tliis  shi])  has  almost  no  motion  and  the  heat  has  in- 
creased with  each  daw  The  steward  i)ut  a  bii;'  metal 
tunnel,  s]ia])ed  like  a  tloiu'-scoo]),  into  otu"  ])orthole. 
It  is  s])len(li(l  at  catching'  the  l)reezes  and  brin^in^' 
them  into  the  room,  and  it  is  also  t^ood  at  brin^in^'  in 
the  water,  as  we  fotuid  the  other  nij^iit.  Tlie  China 
must  ha\'e  i^'one  into  a  swell,  for  about  two  ()"cIock. 
when  we  were  all  slee])in^'  soundh",  1  was  awakened 
by  a  s])lash  of  water  on  m\-  face.  I  sat  u])  w  itii  a  start. 
l')Ut  before  I  realized  what  had  ]ia]»])ent-(l,  the  little 
I'ji^iish  woman  had  switched  on  the  li.L;"lit,  pulled  out 
the  funnel,  and  closed  the  ])ort  hole.  W  ater  drij)])!,'!! 
Irom  the  ceilini;',  and  e\'er\'thin;4"  was  wet.  We  cami)tMl 
(lut    the    best    wa\'    we    could    until    nuirniuv',    when    we 


ROUXD  Till':  WORLD   1 X  SILEXCK 


found  that  little  daniat^e  hatl  l)een  done,  exce])t  that  a 
pretty  lace  hat  tliat  \vas  hanging"  on  the  wall  was 
streaked  with  rust. 

There  is  a  \-ery  lively  set  in  this  cabin.  'rhe\-  have 
s])orts  "  on  the  deck  e\'ery  afternoon,  and  dancing 
every  exening.  when  there  is  not  a  concert  or  a  ball. 
The  ]"ancy-dress  I  Jail  the  other  night  was  a  \-ery 
])retty  affair,  and  the  beauty  and  \arietv  of  the  cos- 
tumes shown  would  ha\-e  done  credit  to  any  occasion. 
My  roonnnate  has  a  }(nmg  nephew,  seventeen  or 
eighteen,  whom  she  dressed  ti])  as  a  baby  in  a  white 
frock,  a  lace  cap  which  I  made,  a  blue  sash  and  blue 
shoulder  knots.  The  bow  who  has  ])ink  cheeks  and 
infantile  blue  e\es,  looked  so  "  cute  '"  that  the  jtulges 
could  not  resist  awarding  him  a  ])rize.  These  iMigiish 
peo])le  are  ne\-er  still:  the\-  are  not  hai)i)y  unless  they 
are  doing  something,  and  doing  it  with  all  their  might, 
too.  It  seems  to  me  too  hot  for  any  exertion,  but  they 
are  ha\ing  cricket  on  deck  now,  with  a  net  arottnd 
them  to  keep  the  balls  from  going  o\er1)()ard  or  doing 
execution  among  us.  I^x'ery  day  they  ha\-e  a  tug  ot 
war,  and  races  of  all  kinds  :  and  the  women  join  heart- 
i]\-   in  e\'er\tliing. 

We  ha\e  just  ])assed  the  .Maldixe  Islands,  and, 
])ointing  u])ward,  like  a  slender  white  finger,  Irom  a 
sand\-  streak  in  the  blue  water,  is  the  light-house  the_\' 
call  the  ■■  bight  of  Asia."  Tomorrow  we  shall  land  in 
C'l  il<  ind)o. 


56 


ROL'XT)  Till*.  WORLD   IX  SILKXCI', 


\]l 


-Madras. 


TllF.Rlv  was  such  exciteinent  on  board,  on  our 
last  da\-  on  the  China.  Stewards  were  i)ackin^" 
deck  chairs  and  ])ihn!4"  them  u])  on  tlie  deck, 
uutih  l)efore  noon,  there  was  hardl}-  a  seat  to  be  founch 
Down  l)elo\v.  otlier  stewards  were  taking-  the  l)at;'i4'ag'e 
from  tlie  rooms  and  liea])ini4'  it  in  the  ])assa!.;"e-way. 
I'assens^ers  were  rushins^'  hitlier  and  thither,  rcstoriui^' 
l)orrowed  traps,  collecting"  their  belonging's,  sayint;'  the 
last  \ital  thini^s  which  could  not  be  left  unsaid:  e\en 
those  who  were  not  .going'  to  land  caught  the  fe\-er, 
and  tore  about  on  a  thousand  ins])ire(l  errands.  Jt 
grew  liotter  and  hotter.  Juirl}'  in  the  afternoon  we 
sailed  into  the  harbor,  and  the  anchor  was  lowered. 
Then  arose  a  turmoil  compared  with  which  the  morn- 
ing's excitement  seemed  peace.  The  gangway  had 
hardly  been  let  down  before  the  crowded  decks  were 
mx'aded  b\'  a  fresh  swarm  from  the  shore,  health- 
officers,  runners  from  the  different  hotels,  curio  deal- 
ers, tea  i)lanters  come  to  meet  their  wi\es  and  fami- 
lies, young  fellows  to  meet  their  sweethearts.  It 
looked  so  hot  on  the  water  that  we  told  the  man  from 
the  llristol  llotel  we  would  wait  until  his  launch  made 
Us  second  iri]).  so  that  by  the  time  we  left  the  shi]).  it 
was  nearly  deserted;  e\er\d)o(l\-  had  gone  oil  to  stay 
n\cr  night  for  the  Cdiina  ball  at  the  (lalle  l'"ace  llotel. 
I'.}-  the  time  we  landed,  darkness  had  fallen.  The 
llrislol    is    close    to    the    (|ua\-.    and    I    turned    from    the 


ROi'xi)  'nil'.  WORLD  IX  siij-:xci': 


57 


sweet-scented  nii;ht  \uto  its  wide  halls,  \vith  arcade 
open  t(»  the  street,  wliere  all  sorts  of  fascinating'  thins^s 
were  for  sale  and  brii^ht-faced.  ([uaintly-dressed 
Cingalese  bes;\ge(l  ns  to  "  Come  bny  "". 

'Idien  we  mounted  the  stairs  to  our  large  cool  rooms, 
furnished  with  electric  fans,  rugs  that  1  co\eted.  and 
white  beds,  shrouded  in  mos(|tuto  netting.     The  arclied 


.  '^<*,  ^j^   ■..:-.■'  : 

^j^.r..- '::  ^' ' '  '''"^i^s^^Rp^  HpO 

^                                                  '" — 'fiiMnLiM^ 

,u 

I^H^                                                                           *  '^  '^^A^^^^^^l 

l.\    (,'()I,(  ).\1  IK  ) 

windows,  guiltless  ol  glass,  looked  out  on  green  tree- 
to])S.  and  down  on  an  electric  street  car  line  and  a 
score  ol  ■■  jinrickisha  boys  "".  their  satin-like  brown  skin 
>hining  in  the  lani])  light. 

it  is  at  Colombo  that  the  wilchery  of  the  iv'ist  takes 
hold  u])on  one.  Already  I  am  ])lanning  to  come  again, 
il  possible,  'j'here  is  a  "  ])ull  "  about  the  place  that  is 
irresistible.        it     is     eml)owcre(l     in     ^reen     trees     and 


58 


ROrXD  THE  WORLD   IX   SILICXCE 


shrubs,  with  fragrant  Howers  excrywhcre :  the  roads 
are  fine  and  hard,  the  streets  are  Hs^hted  witli  j;as.  hut 
most  hewiteliinj^'  of  all  are  the  ])eoi)]e.  They  are  so 
(|uaint  as  to  elothes.  or  laek  of  them,  so  brit^'ht-eyed 
and  smiliui^'.  Men  and  women  alike  wear  their  l)eauti- 
fnl  silk\'  hair  loni^'.  and  do  it  u])  in  a  knot  at  the  back. 


^-C-   . 

S'l'ki;i".T   SCKXl'    I.V  Coi.OMliO 


with  a  curious  round  cond)  around  the  to])  (if  the  head. 
All  of  them  are  handsome. 

I  lound  it  difficult  tn  ,L;"et  accustomed  to  the  swarm 
ol  serxants  at  tlie  hotel.  S(|uatted  on  the  hall  lloor 
ovuside  each  door  were  two  men  dra])ed  round  about 
with  yards  and  \ards  of  white  stuff.  TIieN'  are  alwaxs 
ready  to  bounce  in.  at  an\-  instant.  Ilitherto.  hji^land 
has  been  alwaxs  with  us.  but  here   I   realize  that    I   am 


ROL-\'l)  Till':  WdRLl)   IX   SlLF.XCl-:  59 


60 


ROUXD  TIIH  \\ORLD   I X  SIUvXCl-: 


in  the  l£ast.  ]  had  a  l)eautiful  (lri\e  to  Mount  Lavinia. 
where  there  is  a  pretty  Httle  liotel  on  the  seashore,  in 
the  midst  of  pahns  and  tlowers.  The  wav  lav  through 
X'ictoria  Park,  once  the  Cinnamon  Gardens,  and  then 
through  a  subtud)  of  thatched  cottages,  surrounded  hv 
tro])ical   growth.      The   road   swarmed   with   \\ic.   slow- 


i;.\TR.\.\ci-;  TO  •nil-;  'i'I'MI'ij:  of  •rin-;  lloI.^■  'I'oo'i'ii. 
KA.\i)\'.  c■l•;^■|.o^ 


moxing  l)ullock-carts.  jinrickislias,  women  on  foot  with 
tat  Ijrown  l)abies  astride  their  liips.  Such  a  ga\-, 
Ijright-eyed.  lightly-ckid  people.  'Idie  women  and  httle 
naked  children  in  the  doorways  waxed  their  hands  and 
called  out  '"  vSalaam  I  '"  J  ne\-er  saw  so  man\-  prett\' 
children.  Little  bovs,  dressed  in  a  string  of  beads 
around  the  waist,  and  bracelets  on  arms  and  ankles. 
ran  long  distances  beside  our  carriage  begging.     Most 


Rouxn  Tm<:  wori.d  i.\  sili-.xci-:  oi 

of  them  seemed  to  do  it  more  for  the  fun  of  it  than 
anything  else.  Molly  said  one  of  them  called  to  me 
over  and  over  attain.  "  Be  my  good  mother  and  t;ive 
me  money !  "  Another  one  said.  "  (i<^(l  bless  you. 
ladv.  give  me  money  !  "'  This  seemed  to  be  the  extent 
of  their  English. 

Another  day  was  spent  in  an  excursion  to  Kandw 
We  left  Colombo  at  half  past  seven,  and  for  more  than 
four  hours  the  train  carried  us  througli  a  luxuriant 
tangle  of  green,  climbing'  heights  from  which  we 
looked  down  on  wide  stretches  of  terraced  rice  fields. 
—  a  land  of  strange  and  interesting  things.  We  had 
breakfast  in  the  dining'  car,  and.  later,  at  the  toy  sta- 
tions, embowered  in  flowers,  where  they  sold  strange 
fruit,  we  bought  cocoanuts.  from  which  the  seller 
deftly  cut  a  portion  of  the  top.  showing  the  interior 
full  of  milk.  To  drink  from  the  nut  without  pouring 
the  contents  all  over  oneself  was  an  art  that  had  to  be 
accjuired. 

l'ictures(iue  Kandy  nestles  in  a  hollow  ar<jund  a 
gem-like  lake,  and  is  as  dear  to  lUiddhists  as  Jerusa- 
lem to  Christians  and  Mecca  to  the  Mohammedans; 
for  this  is  where  the  treasured  relic,  lUiddha's  to(^th  is 
kept,  shrined  on  a  lotus  flower  of  ])urest  gold,  tmder 
se\'en  bell-shaped  shrines,  each  one  m(~»re  richly 
jewelled  and  ornamented  than  the  last,  the  whole 
within  a  rich]\-  car\-ed  tem])!e. 

The  time  for  dej^arture  came  all  too  soon,  and  the 
ride  back  in  the  heat  of  the  afternoon  was  warm  and 
tedious;  but  the  jinrickisha  ride  from  the  station  to  the 
hotel  was  ])m'e  delight.  After  dinner  three  of  us  grew 
homesick,  and  went  o\er  to  the  cable  office  near  by 
to  sen<l   word  of  in(|uir\-  iK.ime.     'I'he  answer  to  mine 


62 


ROL'xu  Tin-:  woRij)  i.\  siij<:.\ci<: 


was  brcnis^'ht  nic  as  I  was  lea\ins4'  my  room  at  half  ])ast 
ei^iit  tlie  next  morning'.  T^rom  Colonilx)  to  Xew  \'ork 
and  back  inside  of  twelve  hours!  What  a  little  old 
world  it  is  after  all ! 

'Jdiat  last  day  at  Coloml)0  was  a  busy  one.  I  went 
out  sho])pini;'  all  by  myself  that  niornins;-,  ha\"ini^-  the 
hotel  d()()r-kee])er  eng'aj;"e  a  jinrickisha  for  me,  and  in- 
struct mv  man  where  to  f>'o.     A  uati\e,  nnnu'u"'  aloni-' 


'''*'*'*v*W' 


riiH  'riv.Mi'ijv  OF  Tiiic  ll()r,^'  'rooTir.    -K.\XI)^',  CI■:^'T<o^' 


beside  my  coiueyance,  attached  himself  to  me,  and 
|)ro\e(l  useful  as  a  ^uide.  it  was  i^reat  fun.  for  the 
two  men,  the  man  who  ])ulled  the  carriage  and  the 
L;"uide,  were  so  brii^ht  that  thou,!.^ii  none  o|  us  under- 
stood a  word  that  was  said  they  knew  what  I  wanted 
at  once.  J''or  instance,  when  I  ])retended  to  wind  u]) 
my  kodak,  they  instantly  started  oh  and  in  ti\e  min- 
utes ]  was  ])ut  down  at  a  ])hotoi^ra])her"s.  wliere  I 
fotind  the  films  I  wanted.     .Matches  and  alcohol  lor  m\- 


ROL'XI)  Till-:   WORLD    I X   SILl-lXCI'". 


(K^ 


lamp  were  a  little  more  diffieult  to  find,  but  were  also 
obtained. 

Cini^alese  eurrency  is  not  at  all  diffieult  to  under- 
stand ;  and  in  the  stores  the  salesmen  oblis;in<4ly  tell 
one  the  amount  in  English  money,  with  which  most 
])eoi)le  are  more  or  less  familiar. 

T^ate  in  the  afternoon  of  our  last  dav  at  Colombo, 
we  went  down  to  the  wharf  to  u'o  out  to  the   Pundua. 


- 

=^ 

^ 

^J^ 

<r^-^-^ 

"^^v 

Lir^«^^ 

, 

7--:^^ 

^^1^^ 

-" 

- '    '^ . 

■^^^i^^C 

^^ikjSt  wt^^^ 

■***>  -                       .  ■ 

~  '^              ••  . 

'  -^                      1** 

■^QHhI^h  W^ 

■■-  im.'mi 

I^H^H  r 

-— -  jttm 

•  ■- 

■■^^^ 

^^ 

A    CATAMAKA.V.  —  COLOMIU) 


which  coidd  be  seen  at  some  distance  out  in  the  harbor. 
Tliere  was  no  tender,  and  the  onl\-  \\a\-  to  reach  her 
was  by  rowboat.  The  waxes  ran  hii;ii,  threatening;"  to 
swam])  our  little  boat:  and  the  lour  natives,  with  their 
(|ueer  s])oon-sha|)ed  oars,  seemed  unable  to  make  an\- 
headway.  The  boat  bobbed  up  and  down  until  we 
were  nearl\-  seasick;  then  at  last  we  came  near  the 
steamer,  only  to  be  swe])t  away  a^ain.  (  )ne  b\'  one 
we   had   to  jumj)   for  tlie  <4anL;\\a\'  as  the  boat    was  la- 


64  ROUND  Tlli<:  WORLD   I  X  SILE.XCE 

boriouslv  hroui^ht  into  positifMi.  W'c  liad  to  he  (|uick 
about  it.  too.  1)efore  it  was  s\ve])t  away  aL^ain.  It  was 
a  tlirillint^'  time.  One  man  had  his  Httle  1)0}'.  who  had 
l)een  verv  ill.  on  a  ])ii'ow  in  his  arms,  as  lie  made  the 
leap.  I  thougiit  of  you  all  at  home,  with  a  l)i^-  lump 
in  mv  throat  ;  and  oh.  liow  thankful  1  was  w  hen  we 
were  all  safe  on  board.  The  boat  ])ite]ied  about  so 
dreadfull}'  all  ni^ht  that  there  was  not  much  sleep  for 
us:  Ijut  towards  morning'  we  ,Li'ot  into  smoother  water. 
and  anchored  off  Tutierjrin  about  se\-en  o'clock.  We 
were  taken  ashore  in  a  steaiu  launch  which  lurched  so 
much  that,  durini:;'  most  of  the  half  hour's  ride,  our 
chairs  were  sliding'  back  and  forth  and  we  were  clutch- 
ing desperately  at  an}-thing  and  e\er_\thing  thai  came 
in  our  way.  ( )ur  entry  into  India  was  scarcely-  what 
rosy  dreams  had  pictured.  —  a  scramble  from  launch 
to  wharf,  and  a  walk  down  the  long  i)ier  to  the  land, 
where  a  ])icket  fence  ke])t  us  from  stra^•ing.  an<l  held 
back  Ijegging  nati\-es.  There  was  no  l)eaut\'  in  the 
landscape.  We  saw  just  a  flat  sandy  plain,  a  waiting- 
train,  two  little  ])lastered  houses,  some  I^ngiish  Cus- 
toms inspectors  and  an  army  of  sad-e_\ed  nali\es.  A 
])rocession  of  natives  follo\ved  us  u])  the  ])ier.  each  man 
laden  with  trunks  and  bags:  they  carried  e\"erything 
on  their  heads.  e\en  the  heaxiest  of  the  trunks.  At 
the  teet  of  the  ins])ectors  the  luggage  was  all  (lumi)ed 
on  the  sand,  in  the  burning  sun.  Suit-cases  and  hand- 
l)ags  were  o])ened  :  each  trunk  had  to  be  weighed.  It 
was  a  long  time  before  all  tlie  steamer  jjassengers 
were  dismissed  to  the  ])atient  train.  (  )ur  carriage, 
being  tirst-class.  pro\-ed  \-er\-  comfortable:  along  each 
side  of  the  com])artment  ran  a  long.  wide,  thickly 
cushioned  leather  seat,     'i'he  car  was  entered  from  the 


ROL'xi)  Till-:  woRij)  IX  siLi-:xci-: 


()5 


side,  and  at  one  end  was  a  little  dressing'  r(_)oni.  at  the 
other  a  window  opened  into  a  "  Servants'  C(^ni])art- 
ment  "".  I""rom  Tntieorin  to  Ma(h'as  is  an  a]l-(Un-  and 
all-nii^ht  ride.  Tlie  country  was  at  tirst  \-erv  flat  and 
well  cultivated,  but  as  the  day  w(M-e  on  it  became 
wilder  and  mountainous.  Dinner  was  serxed  in  tl"<' 
station  diniui^'  room  at  'rrichino])ol_\-  Junction,  the 
train  waitin;^'  meanwhile. 

As  nigiit  came  on  we  beii'an  to  feel  lonely :  the 
IJrowns  had  been  left  at  Kand}-.  and  all  at  once  it 
seemed  to  come  to  us  that  we  were  four  women  far 
from  home,  and  that  oiu"  little  com])artment  was  bare 
and  comfortless.  There  was  no  giitter  of  mirrors  and 
g'ildini^'.  no  soft  ])lush  cushions,  no  lordlv  brown  ])orter 
to  unearth  a  hidden  store  of  sheets.  ])illows  and  warm 
blankets,  as  in  our  luxurious  "  Oxerland  "'  trains.  The 
train  s])ed  on  throu<.;ii  the  dark  :  but  as  no  one  ai)])eare(l 
to  do  anything  for  us.  we  climbed  u])  to  in\-estig"ate  the 
stra])S  that  held  the  two  u])])er  berths  to  the  ceiling, 
found  the_\-  were  not  difficult  to  manage,  and  made  up 
Dur  beds  with  our  store  of  wadded  (piilts.  ])urchase(l 
at  Colombo,  steamer  rugs,  and  ])ilIows.  .Morning 
broke  dark  and  rain_\-.  and  the  tea  l)asket  the  (ira}s 
had  bought  in  Colomlx)  was  o])ene(l  and  we  grew 
clieerfid  oxer  its  contents.  Madras  was  reached  at 
eight  o'clock  in  a  i)ouring  rain  which  continued  the 
whole  time  of  our  stay.  We  were  met  by  some 
American  residents,  and  1)\-  an  arm_\'  ol  coolies  who 
fairh'  fought  over  our  ])aggage.  It  seemed  as  if  we 
-should  ne\er  get  it  all  sorted  out  and  labelled,  as  wa-< 
necessarx-  to  shoxx'  that  \xe  had  ])assed  the  customs  at 
Tntieorin.  .\t  last  all  that  was  oxer,  and  \xe  lour 
.--(jueezed    into    one    of    the    smallest    cabs    1    exer    sa\x. 


66 


ROUND  'IMI1-:   WORU)    I X   SIL1•:.\C1^ 


drawn    1)v    one    of    lliosc    miserable    little    horses    that 
seem  to  be  a  s])ecialt_\-  of  Madras. 

Our  friends  took  us  first  of  all  to  see  a  Christian 
native  weddini^',  where  the  l)ri(le,  dressed  in  white  and 
barefoot.  Avas  attended  by  a  seore  of  i)retty  little  ^irls. 
as  demure  as  ])()ssible,  all  barefooted,  like  the  bride. 
and  dressed  alike  in  full  white  skirts  and  turke_\-red 
jackets.  As  soon  as  the  ceremony  was  o\er.  our 
friends  took  us  to  the  Voun^"  W Omen's  Christian  As- 
scKMation.  A\-here  they  had  ent^at^-ed  rooms  for  us.  This 
was  an  attracti\e  buildini;"  in  the  midst  of  extensixe 
walled  grounds  ot  its  own.  ( )ur  rooms  were  \ery 
l)lcasant  and  nicely  furnished.  A  i)retty  nati\c  t^irl 
brout^ht  us  tea.  The  cement  doors  of  our  rooms  had 
"  just  been  washed  '",  she  said,  and,  m\'  dear,  those 
doors  were  still  as  wet  as  c\'er  when  we  lelt  .Madras 
the  next  day,  driven  away  bv  the  weather.  If  one  da}- 
of  the  monsoon  is  like  that,  how  intolerable  months  of 
it  must  be  I  A\'e  had  to  wear  our  rubbers  all  the  time 
we  were  in  the  rooms,  and  all  the  l)rass  work,  locks, 
and  buckles  on  our  ba^'^'af^e  became  tarnished  or  rusty 
at  once.  (iIo\-es  and  shoes  had  the  uncomfortable  fecl- 
\u'^  of  wet  leather.  Our  one  (la\'  in  .Madras  we  s])ent 
trying"  to  direct  the  stu])idest  driver  ]  ex'cr  saw.  A 
ijharry  was  called  to  take  us  to  \isit  the  v^chool  of  Art. 
The  (lri\-er  misunderstood,  and  took  us  to  the  ^^chool 
ot  .Music;  so  it  was  some  lime  bclore  we  L;'ot  aroimd  to 
the  ri^lit  ])lace.  lint  when  we  did  find  il  wc  were  well 
rei)aid  for  our  trouble.  It  was  so  inlcresliuL;'  to  see 
tlie  boys  at  work  modelling'  in  i)laster,  doin^-  wood- 
carxini;",  en,i4'ra\-ini;-  on  brass  and  makiuL;'  designs. 
Some  ot  them  were  making-  \er\-  beautiful  and  i)erfcct 
drawings    ot    an    c.\(|uisite    repousse    brass    dish     with 


ROL'XI)  Till-:   WORM)    IX   SIIJ^XCJ-: 


()7 


cit\cr.  l'"roiii  llic  School  wc  wenl  to  the  Moore  Mar- 
ket, a  hui^e  red  brick  l)uil(liii!4\  where  proN'isions,  fruit, 
dry  i^'ood^.  and  millinery  were  all  dis[)layed  in  little 
stalls.  We  had  been  told  before  we  left  the  house  that 
we  would  be  taking"  otn*  lives  in  our  hands  il  we  did 
not  ])urchase  tou])ees  (i)itch  hats)  at  (Mice,  so  we  went 
to  the  market  for  them.  Think  of  it!  They  are  hard. 
hea\}'.  ui^iy  thint^s  that  wobble  aroimd  on  our  heads; 
howe\-er.  anything;'  is  better  than  having"  a  sunstroke. 

We  wanted  to  see  the  Cathedral  and  the  Museum: 
but  the  man  was  so  stu])id  we  could  do  nothing'  with 
him.  and  after  dri\-in<4'  around  in  ])ur|)()seless  fashion 
for  an  hour  or  so.  in  the  \ain  ho])e  that  a  ra\-  of  lii^ht 
would  dawn  u])on  him.  we  j^axe  it  u])  and  went  home, 
deciding'  on  the  wa\'  to  lea\e  tor  luini^alore  the  next 
ex'enin^'.  So  mv  memories  of  .Madras  will  be  —  wet 
roads.  <lri])i)in!.;"  trees,  and  lon^'  stretches  of  stuccoed 
garden  \valls  of  a  uniform  discolored  and  mouldy  yel- 
low-, all  seen  Irom  the  front  seat  of  a  "■harrw 


68 


ROUXI)  'I'lll".   WORIJ)    !.\   SILKN'CI-: 


\JI1 
The  Taj  .Mahal   I  h)tel.   Iloiiibay. 

IllAh)  just    lime   lo   seal    u])   m\-    letter   at    Madras, 
when   they   called   me   to   leax'e    for   the   train.      We 
tra\-elled    second-class    this    time;    the    onl\-    ditter- 
ence  in  the  car  is  that  instead  of  fonr  berths,  there  are 


(iru  •i'ui\ix>   Ki-.ixc,  i.(  >Ai)i;i ).      iiaxcai. 


ti\-e:  and  one  can  ha\e  more  lu^"^'aL;e  on  a  tir--t-class 
ticket  than  on  a  second-class.  It  was  six  o'clock,  and 
still  (|uite  dark,  when  onr  train  came  to  a  >to])  at 
l'>anL;alore  >talion.  Xol  knowing-  thai  we  were  --o  nt'ar 
onr  destination,  we  were  insl  ahont  to  make  ^ome  tc-a. 


ROL'XI)   Till".   WORIJ)    IX    SIIJ'.XC'I-: 


69 


and  had  to  throw  away  the  hot  water  and  liurr\-  ont 
on  tlie  ])hittorm.  'Idic  liand  of  a  ^ood  Samaritan 
stretclied  fortli  from  the  eliill  (hirkness  :  a  kind  mis- 
sionary gathered  n])  otir  helonoin^s,  and.  stowing"  ns 
in  a  _<;harr\",  sent  ns  to  the  Ciirls"  llii^h  School,  a  l)oard- 
inii'  scliool.  where,  as  it   was  \acation  time,  the\'  conhl 


riii-;  iioisi-,  wiii:i>;i-:  wi'.  s'l'A^■|■:l)  wiii;.\  .v\'  i'.axcai.ori-; 


L;"i\e  ns  rooms  and  l)iiar(l.  It  was  here  that  we  l)e,L;an 
ha\inL;"  meal>  at  huhan  liotn">.  — cliota  liazari  or  little 
breakfast,  of  toa>t  and  tea.  at  se\en  o'clock.  l)reakta>l 
at  ekwen.  tiffin  at  three,  dinner  at  se\en.  We  l)eL;an 
til  i^et  ac(|naitned  with  cnrrw  too.  It  was  serxed  on 
exerythiii^-.  We  ale  ^"inL;erl\-  at  tir>t,  but  after  a  little 
])ractit\-  we  conld  >wall(iw  whnU'  iniuithlnls  withont 
a  tear.  I  was  taken  to  see  tln'  school's  kitclu'n.  which 
\\a--    in    a    little    h(in>e    1)\     itst-lf.    a-^     Indian    kilcdien^ 


70 


ROfXI)  THE  WORLD   IX   STLl-.XCE 


always  are.  There  was  no  stove  and  no  chimney, 
nothing-  bnt  a  sort  of  rang'e  l)uilt  np  of  nuul.  Hke  a 
large  S(|uare  box  with  holes  in  the  to]).  The  fire  is 
made  inside  this  box.  It  is  ])ast  my  nnderstanding 
how  the  cooks  can  turn  out  such  excellent  lood,  and 
that   so  ])rom])t]y. 

llangalore   is  a  summer   resort,  three  thousand   feet 


IX    'I'll  I-;    l.AI.    KAC.ll.         I!.\XC.A1.(  )KI-: 


al)o\e  the  sea  le\el.  The\-  call  it  the  Ciarden  of 
Southern  India.  Tlie  cil\'  has  a  l)cautilu]  ])ark  with  a 
small  menagerie,  tine  ])ublic  buildings,  excellenl  r(iad:-. 
and  good  khigiish  sho])S  that  are  like  unr  (le])artment 
--tores  on  a  small  scale,  with  drugs,  slatinnery.  and 
t'anned  goods.  —  e\-er\thing  seems  to  be  canned  here. 
I'll]-  dry  goods,  one  must  go  to  the  nali\e  ba/aar. 
Some   ot    these  shoi)s   are   beautifulK'    arranged.      After 


ROUXD  TIIK  WORLD   IX   SILKXCF.  71 

a  cmiple  of  da^s  spent  in  resting-  and  trying"  to  get  our- 
selves accnstonied  to  this  strange  land,  we  started  for 
llyderahad.  The  road  to  the  station  was  ga}'  with 
])ainiers,  and  lined  with  natixe  eaxalry  ;  the  station 
ilselt  was  sereened  with  ean\as  and  deeorated  with 
])iitted  ])lants  and  l)eautilnl  rugs.  Tlie  nati\e  prinee 
was  ex])ecte(l  ;  l)ut.  to  ni\'  disai>])()intnient.  he  did  not 
;irri\e  l)el()re  our  train  left. 


\\ii,\ii:\   i;i;si i)i-;  'nil-;  road.    -  i'.axc.ai.ori': 


Imha  i>  a  lan<l  nl  niagnitieent  distances.  WC  were 
twenty-lour  liours  on  the  wa\-  to  I  I  xderahad.  At  six 
o"eloek  in  the  morning  we  had  to  eliange  ears,  and 
again  at  oui'  o'eloek.  At  tlu'  station  tluw  sell  meal 
tiid<et>  which  art-,  except  for  color,  exaclK'  the  sanu' 
;!•-  tin-  railway  ticket^,  and  one  tweuing,  when  the  light 
wa^  dim.   I    ga\e  u])  the  wrong  ticket.     TIkw    followed 


72 


ROUXl)  Tili-:  WOKIJ)   IX   SILEXCK 


me  to  tlie  train  and  ex])lanations  nnder  difficulties  fol- 
lowed. The  nati\-e  manai^ier  of  the  dinintj-room,  beini;- 
a  ])ers()n  of  sour  (lis])()sition,  was  unkind  enoui^ii  to 
think  I  would  cheat  him  e\en  after  he  recei\'e(l  his 
meal  ticket.  It  took  a  i^ood  deal  ol  ])ersuasion  to  ^et 
him  to  i^ixe  u])  my  train  ticket,  lie  was  so  un])]easant 
that  1  was  oxerjoxed  when  om-  train  moved  awa\-  and 
I   saw  the  last  of  him. 

At  Hyderabad  we  met  with  that  Indian  institution, 
the  string'  bed.  It  is  a  sim])le  Irame  work  of  ])oles. 
across  which  is  stretched  a  closeh'-wox'en  netting'  of 
coarse  twine,  which,  al)out  a  foot  from  the  frame  at 
the  lower  end.  narrows  to  a  twisted  ro])e.  It  looks 
like  a  hammock  cut  in  two  crosswise  and  laid  on  a 
trame  which  in  tin"n  is  su])i)orte(l  b\-  four  le<4"s.  (  )ne 
sees  string'  beds  ex'erywhere.  in  the  buni^'alows,  in  the 
yards  ot  the  natixe  houses,  and  sometimes  on  the 
streets.  Those  i^'ix'en  us  at  I  Ixderabad  were  the  ne 
])lus  ultra  of  string-  beds,  made  of  broad  stri])s  of  web- 
biui.;'  wo\-en  on  hea\_\-  frames.  The\-  are  as  com  foil- 
able  as  any  sprins^'  bed.  Thous.;h  we  were  sta\in<4-  at  a 
])ri\'ate  house,  and  nearl\-  half  the  bungalow  had  ])een 
L;'i\-en  u])  to  us.  our  rooms  were  furnished  onl\-  with 
beds,  dressins^'  tables,  and  bathing'  a])])aratus  :  such 
things  as  bedding",  towels,  and  soa]).  we  were  e.\i)ected 
to  su])])ly  ourseK'es.  according"  to   Indian  custom. 

Hyderabad  is  tlie  ca])ital  of  the  territor\-  of  His 
-Majesty  the  .Xizam.  and  is  (|uile  a  lar^e  ])]ace.  We 
had  some  l)eautiftd  drixes  in  the  I'ublic  IMeasure- 
(/round,  and  to  Secunderal)ad.  Tlie  road  to  Secunder- 
abad  is  (|uite  a  lashionable  drixe.  Tlie  wide  riiad,  willi 
its  xillas  and  ;_;ardens,  \x  as  tilled  witli  elegant  e(|ui- 
])aLies   and    tine   horses.      Aloni^-   the   rixer   tlu'   dh(i])ie.s, 


ROrXI)  Till-:   WORLD  IX   SILKXCl' 


73 


or  washermen,  were  at  work  at  lar<;e  stone  tanks.  'J'he 
ji^Tound  near  was  etivered  with  the  elean  garments 
■^jjread  out  to  (h'v  :  and  as  much  of  their  washiui^'  was 


-    - 

«.  .;^^ 

0              ? 
AriH 

w'-"^ 

ft 

^^ 

.^ 

■?^#I 

x;"f,'^  mH%                ■%      "?  •P' 

{ 

^\\^ 

^^^^^' 

IMSIIOl'S    I'OSS,   'I'llOlUKX    AM)   Ol.DIIAM 


rom])osed   ol    tlie   lou!,;'   strips   ol    red    clotli   the    women 
use  tor  chuddahs.  it  looked  \-ery  <;ay  in  the  sunshine. 

(  )ne  da\-   llislio])  (  )ldliam  took  .Miss  (ira\'  and  me  out 
in   one  of  tlie   funn\-   litllt'  two-wheeled   carts  thev   call 


74  ROUXD  Tin-,  WORLi:)   TX   STLEXCE 

tongas.  We  got  out  in  the  erowded  bazaar,  to  see  the 
gra\-es  of  the  Xizams  in  the  (juadrangle  of  the  .Mecca 
Mos(|ue.  which  was  l)uilt  in  Kill  A.  1)..  and  is  said 
cl()sel\-  to  resemble  the  ]\los(|ue  at  Mecca.  .\  small 
crowd  followed  us  around,  and  there  was  great  excite- 
ment when  I  attempted  to  stc])  within  the  enclosure, 
for  to  enter  it  \\  as  an  act  of  sacrilege.  lUit  we  could 
see  ver\-  well  from  the  top  of  the  ste])s,  and  our  native 
con\'ov  so  far  fax'ored  us  as  to  give  us  r(^ses  from  the 
garlands  on  the  tombs.  J  did  not  know,  then,  that  it 
was  not  so  many  years  ago  that  it  was  unsafe  for  a 
loreigner  to  be  within  the  natixe  cit\'  witliout  a  guard 
ol  soldiers;  and  1  was  disa])])ointed  1)ecause  I  was  not 
allowed  to  stroll  about  at  will  and  inx'estigate  the 
contents  of  all  the  fascinating  little  booths.  The 
I'.isho])  i)leaded  lack  of  time,  as  we  were  going  to  the 
liouse  of  a  Ivajah  or  natixe  ])rince  of  the  .Xizam's  court. 
(  )n  driving  into  the  court  of  the  ])alace.  we  found  it 
lull  of  carriages  and  elejjhants.  The  stout  elderl\- 
kajali  was  standing  at  the  head  of  the  ste])s.  recei\ing 
\isitors.  As  refreshments,  tlie\-  brought  us  shallow 
red  earthenware  bowls  Idled  with  something  that 
looked  like  \\hi])i)ed  white  of  egg.  and  round  cakes  of 
thin  ])ie  crust,  the  size  of  a  tea  ])late.  The  Rajah 
showed  us  how  to  break  olt  ])ieces  of  the  cake  to  use 
as  spoons  x\-ith  wjiich  to  eat  the  frotlu'  meringue. 
Xext  came  hot  curr\-  ])ntls,  which  we  were  to  eat  wilh 
our  lingers.  Two  of  the  Rajah's  children,  a  girl  arid 
boy  ol  lour  and  se\en.  gorgeous]\-  arrayed,  appeart'd 
just  tlien  with  their  attendants.  Me  greeted  them 
\ery  affectionateh'.  taking  the  little  girl's  face  between 
]]']>  hands  and  ])atting  it.  1  was  nibbling  at  \uv  cake 
w  luMi   tlu'    llishop  came  nj)  to  me,  and  said.  "  ^'on   can 


ROUXD  TllK  WORLD  IX  SILEXCE  75 

eat  that  as  we  walk  along-.  We  are  to  see  the  palace  ". 
So,  having  handed  over  the  rest  to  one  of  the  swarm 
of  attendants.  1  made  my  adieux  with  half  that  cart 
wheel  still  in  my  hand.  —  J  can  imagine  vonr  horri- 
fied face  as  you  read  this!  —  and.  with  Miss  Oray 
and  the  liishop,  followed  the  guide  to  whom  the  Rajah 


ixxi'.R  corirr  i.\  iiorsi-;  oi'  .\.\'n\'i';  ri-irxcic  .vv  \\\\)V.K.\\'..\n 

'I'lic    i'rincc   stands   (in    tin-   slf|is    in    tlu-   centre,    with    two   of    liis   cliildicn 


commilled  us.  through  a  series  of  low  dark  rooms  and 
galleries  furnishetl  wiih  shabh}'  iuiro])ean  furniture 
and  ])hotogra])hs  of  nati\e  dignitaries  in  tarnished  gilt 
Irames.  (  )ur  guide  seemed  to  ex])ect  us  to  be  o\-er- 
awed  b\'  the  splendor!  We  went  com])]etel\-  around 
the  court.  I  fell  behind,  while  at  the  op])osite  end. 
and  had  the  luck  to  gX't  a  good  ])hotogra])h  of  the  o])en 


76 


ROl'XD  'I'm-    WORLD    I  X   SI  LI". X CI-, 


t^allery  in  wliich  \vc  had  been  reeeived.  with  the  Rajah. 
Ills  cliildren  and  suite  standing'  there. 

We  readied  l!()nil)a}-  early  this  morning',  after  two 
nii^hts  and  a  (hiy  on  tlie  train.  Tliese  loni^'  hours  on 
the  train  are  ratlier  techous.  We  tour  women  are  shut 
in  one  e()m])artnient  toi^ether.  and  no  raih"oad  offieial 
is  e\'er  seen,  excejjt  wlien  we  come  to  a  sto])  at  some 


•Illl':   AI'OLLO    i!i-.\i)i;u. 


station,  when  the  door  is  unlocked  and  the  ticket 
l)uncher  a])])ears.  When  we  retire  we  mu>l  make  u]) 
our  own  beds,  as  well  as  proxide  tliem  :  and  it  is 
always  cold  here  at  ni^ht.  often  below  fon\-  dej^'rees, 
thou.^ii  it  is  hot  in  the  middle  of  the  day.  The  sido 
ot  the  car  seem  to  be  full  of  cracks,  throui^h  which  the 
wind  blows  all  ni,^iit  kniL^'.  1  am  alwax's  ^iad  when 
daxliuht  come>. 


ROUXI)  TIIK   WORM)    IX   SILKXCl*.  11 

Our  train  rolled  into  the  station  at  Uonibay  at  six 
o'clcK^k  in  the  niornint^-.  and  it  was  an  eerie  drive 
throus;h  the  deserted  streets  in  the  dim  lio-ht  of  early 
(lav.  Uombay  is  indeed  a  beautiful  eity.  with  its  Inroad 
a\enues  and  stately  l)uildings.  This  hotel  is  one  of  the 
finest  buildings  in  the  ])lace  ;  the  floors  are  of  mosaic, 
and  there  are  electric  lit;hts  and  every  modern  com- 
fort, 'idle  house  is  directly  on  the  harbor,  and  a 
stone's  throw  from  the  famous  A])ollo  [kinder,  the 
old  landini^-place.  The  three  windows  of  our  room 
look  out  on  the  bay.  and  1  ne\er  tire  of  the  changing^ 
scene  there.  The  sunrise  has  been  wonderful.  —  a 
]MCture  1  shall  never  forget.  The  Indian  sun  is  some- 
what lazy  :  and  instead  of  beginning  work  at  five,  as 
our  does,  does  not  rise  until  seven  o'clock.  The  purple 
hills,  rising  from  the  steel-grav  water,  with  the  flush- 
ing sk}-  behind,  make  a  gloriously  colored  picture;  and 
against  this  glowing  background  the  white-sailed 
yachts  and  magnificent  ocean  steamers  come  and  go. 
or  lie  at  anchor.  There  is  nothing  mean  or  siiabby  to 
be  seen  in  this  ])art  of  the  harbor.  e\'en  the  rowboats 
glitter  in  fresh  white  ])aint.  and  instead  of  dirt\" 
\vliar\es,  there  is  a  handsome  stone  sea  wall.  ■ 

They  gi\e  us  the  best  coffee  here  that  we  liax'e  had 
since  lea\ing  Italw  As  for  fruit,  the  banana  is  not  as 
good  as  ours.  There  are  \er\-  small  ones,  half  as  large 
as  ours,  that  are  good:  but  the  large  ones  taste  verv 
rank  to  me.  I  ha\e  tried  the  mango  and  the  custard 
ap])Ie.  but  what  1  like  is  the  little  Tangerine  orange  : 
they  ha\-e  the  best  here  that  I  e\er  ate,  —  juic\-  and 
oi   delicious  f1a\'or. 

I  ha\-e  been  out  sh<ip])ing  all  1)\-  nu'self  several  times, 
and    found    it    ^reat    fun.      h'irst.    I    made    a    list    of   the 


78  ROL'XD  Till-:  WORLD   IX  SILENCE 

stores,  with  the  hel])  of  the  guide  1)Ook ;  then  I  had 
the  clerk  in  the  hotel  office  call  a  carriage  and  read  the 
list  to  the  dri\-er  for  me.  and  on  the  return  1  had  the 
same  clerk  settle  with  him  for  carriage  hire. 

We  went  out  to  the  Towers  of  Silence,  the  Parsee 
burial  place,  yesterday,  having  our  chota  hazari  at 
half  past  six  so  that  we  could  start  at  seven,  —  for. 
you  know,  all  Indian  sight-seeing  is  done  in  the  earl}- 
morning.  The  drive  around  Pack  Uay  through  the 
Queen's  Road  and  Malabar  Hill  Road  is  most  beauti- 
ful. One  passes  English,  Alohammedan  and  llindu 
Cemeteries,  and  the  quaint  "  Marine  Lines  ""  and 
Church  Gate  "  Stations,  one  of  which  has  an  elabor- 
ately car\-ed  front.  The  road  u])  [Malabar  Hill  is  lined 
on  l)()th  sides  with  villas  and  gardens,  and  there  are 
beautiful  \'iews  of  the  harbor,  its  islands,  and  the 
mountains  beyond.  We  j^assed  scores  of  Hindus 
coming  from  the  temple  of  the  \\'alkeshuar.  or  "  Sand 
Lord  "".  \\-ith  their  foreheads  freshh-  colored.  One  of 
the  most  hideous  things  in  Lidia,  to  me.  is  seeing  the 
throngs  of  people,  men.  women  and  children  with  the 
marks  upon  their  foreheads.  The  red  and  white  lines 
in  the  shai)e  of  a  \',  or  red  spots,  denote  that  the  ])cr- 
son  thus  marked,  is  a  worshi])])er  of  the  god  X'ishnu. 
while  horizontal  white  lines  mark  a  follower  of  Si\a. 
These  and  the  nose  jewels,  —  ornaments  worn  1)\-  all 
the  women  and  little  girls,  —  are,  apart  from  their 
signihcance,   utterh'   disfiguring. 

lie^-ond  the  \-ilIas  with  their  gardens  and  around  tlie 
cur\e  of  the  l)av  lies  the  inclostu'e  in  wliich  are  the 
fi\-e  T(n\ers  of  Silence.  On  entering  a  gatewaw  one 
comes  to  a  long  flight  of  ste])s,  at  the  base  of  which 
the   carriau'cs  are   left.      At   the   head   of  the   tliuht    is   a 


Rcu'XD  'riii<:  WORLD  IX  siij':xci':  79 

,erc    met    1)\-    an 


TOWlvR    OF    SI^KXCi-;.  "- KOMIiAY 


J4limi)sc  ol  wliitt'-waslu'd  walls,  with  a  row  of  oniiiioiis- 
lookini;'  black  birds  ])erclic(l  on  the  to]).  Xear  1)\'  is  a 
larc^e  o\al-slia])e(l  biiildint^".  which  we  were  not  al- 
lowed to  enter.  It  is  the  lore  Teniple,  where  the 
^acre<l  hre.  hroiiL^ht  by  Zoroaster,  is  still  biu'nini;-.  In 
anotlier  bnildini;"  is  a  lar^e  model  of  one  of  the  Towers. 
The  ti\e  'i'owers  are  all  alike,  and  are  i)ro\i(led  with 
L^ratini^s  inside,  on  which  the  bodies  are  laid.  (|nite 
nnde.      In   a   short    lime   the    \nltures   ha\e   comi)lelcd\- 


80  ROUXI)  Till':  WORLD    IX   SILKX'CE 

devoured  all  the  flesh,  leaxiiii^'  only  the  skeleton,  whieh 
is  east  into  the  well  in  the  eentre  of  the  tower  to 
erumble  to  dust.  'I'hink  of  sittinjj,'  in  the  s^arden  near 
by  to  meditate  on  that  I 

'IMiere  are  many  I'arsees  in  Uombay.  Their  (jueer 
hats,  resend)lin^"  a  ])ieee  of  sto\e  pipe,  one  sees  every- 
^vhere.  Exeept  for  the  hat,  the  Parsee  dresses  like  an 
ICnj^^'^lishman  or  an  Ameriean. 

On  the  way  baek  to  the  hotel,  we  visited  the  jain 
Animal  JJospital.  We  alii^iited  in  a  lar<;'e  and  \ery 
dirty  eourt-yard.  throus^h  wdiieh  a  i;ate  leads  into  the 
hos])ital.  —  a  feneed-in  sj)aee  where  there  were  eages 
for  the  siek  animals.  ])otted  ])lants,  trees  and  shrubs, 
stables  for  eattle.  and  ])ens  in  whieh  the  eattle  eould 
take  the  air.  The  Jains  are  a  seet  that  will  not  kill  an 
animal  of  any  kind.  The  eontrast  between  the  eom- 
fortable  cpiarters  for  the  l)irds  and  animals  in  the  hos- 
])ital  and  the  habitations  of  the  lumian  l)eings  in  the 
miserable  eourt  outside  was  great  I 

Driving  through  the  swarming  erowds  in  the 
bazaars,  we  stopped  to  look  at  the  .Monke_\-  'iVmi)le. 
This  building  is  almost  eo\ere(l  with  cpiaint  car\ings. 
We  were  not  permitted  to  enter,  only  to  stand  at  the 
door  and   look   in. 

Another  dcW  we  went  to  the  \  ietoria  (hardens,  on 
the  wav  ])assing  through  a  street  where  the  i)a\ement 
between  the  trollev  traeks  was  l)eing  relaid.  Men  and 
women  were  working  at  it  together,  the  men  tilling 
baskets  with  earth,  whieh  they  ])laeed  on  the  women's 
heads  to  be  earried  awa_\-.  The  X'ietoria  dardens  are 
very  ])rettilv  laid  out  and  seemed  \ery  po])ular.  W'c 
were  u\)  and  off  \ery  early  this  morning  lor  a  Iri))  to 
Elephanta   Island,  six  miles  out   in   the  bay.  to  see  the 


ROL'.Xl)  Till':   WORLD    1 X   SllJCXCI': 


SI 


Caves.  W'c  were  the  only  luiropeans  in  the  small 
steamer  i^cinL;'  oxer.  .\s  we  neared  the  island  we  had 
to  Li'o  down  the  ladder  to  the  crowded  third-class  cabin, 
to  he  lowered  into  the  sailboat  which  came  out  to  take 
us  ashore.  The  landin*;"  place  was  a  low  tlii^iit  of  wet 
and  sli])])er\'  ste])s.  The  island  seemed  to  be  unin- 
habited, but  on  the  road  we  met  foiu"  wil(l-lookin<;" 
men  with  a  roui^h  sort  of  a  sedan  chair  which  we  put 
to  nse  amon^-  us.  The  road  was  wild  and  ])ictures(|ne. 
with  a  tin\-  \illa^"e  of  thatched  huts  hidden  among-  the 
trees  about  half  wa\'  u]).  I')\"  and  1)\-  we  came  to  a 
wall,  just  inside  its  gate  is  a  bungalow  with  a  rustic 
arbor,  and  a  little  farther  on  are  the  Ca\es.  The  main 
ca\e  is  a  huge  scpiare  room  hewn  from  solid  rock,  its 
roof  sup])orted  1)\-  large  round  columns.  ivxtcnding 
entirely  across  the  end  wall  are  colossal  llindu 
sculptures,  chiet  of  which  is  the  ■"Three-faced  lUist. 
nineteen  feet  in  height  (to  (|uote  .Murray)  a  repre- 
sentation of  v^i\a.  the  front  face  is  Si\a  in  the  char- 
acter ot  lirahma.  the  creator,  the  east  tace.  v'-^ixa  in 
the  character  of  l\udna.  the  destroyer,  and  the  west 
lace.  Sixa  as  \  ishnu  the  preserxer."  (  )n  each  side  of 
tliis  middle  comi)artment  there  are  other  mxthological 
carxings.  Then  on  eacli  side  of  this  large  hall  are  txxo 
smaller  ones.  In  the  main  hall  is  a  large  shrine. 
What  time  and  labor  must  haxe  been  recpiired  to  cut 
all  thi<  from  the  rock  I  These  caxes  are  sui)])osed  to 
haxe  been  n>e<l  as  hermitages.  W  e  had  tea.  at  l\s.  1 
I-'!;!  cts.)  a  cu]).  and  some  bread  and  butler,  in  the  little 
arbor  at  the  gate\xay  :  and  then  had  to  hurry  a\xa\-  for 
lear  ol  mis>ing  the  steamer  back  to  l')ond)ax-.  We  are 
packing  to  leaxe.  to-night,   for    liariida. 


R()L'.\I3  THE  WORLD   IX   SlIJ-lXCK 


IX 
Wcllcslcy  (lirls"  v^cliool.  Xaini.  Tal. 

Ill.W'l^.  been  leading"  a  strenuous  life  since  J  left 
Moinbay  :  sleeping  on  the  train,  doing  sight-seeing 
all  da_\-.  and  then  going  back  to  another  train  at 
night.  Several  days  were  spent  at  Daroda.  the  ca])ital 
of  the  Maliratta  state,  and  though  it  has  a  ])opulation 
of  o\-er  ]()(». 00(1  there  is  no  hotel  there.  Thev  took  us 
in  at  the  AJetiiodist  Mission,  and  made  us  comfortable. 
'I'he  accommodations  for  the  traxclling  ])ublic  at  these 
Indian  cities  and  towns  are  not  inxiting.  .\b)st  of  them 
ha\e  what  they  call  a  Dak  I  bungalow,  furnished  with 
string  beds,  dressing  tables  and  toilet  ap])aratus.  such 
as  thev  are.  but  the  tra\eller  must  carry  his  own  bed- 
ding and  towels  and  haxx  his  own  serxant  to  cook  for 
him.  In  some  of  the  railway  stations  there  are  slec]")- 
ing  rooms  upstairs,  and  meals  to  be  obtained  in  the 
station  dining-room.  The  best  things  a1)out  tliese 
meals  are  the  tea.  l)read.  butter  and  jam.  and  the  rice 
serxed  with  currv.  (  )ur  cows  would  faint  away  il 
the\-  could  see  the  milk.  h'\cry thing  is  serxed  table 
d'  bote,  and  if  \'ou  yearn  tor  eggs  or  toast,  instead  ol 
the  bill  of  fare,  you  are  likely  to  ha\e  e\erylhing  else 
in  the  establislnnent  otiered  you  belore  you  can  man- 
age to  make  vour  desires  understood,  h'.ach  of  these 
station  dining-rooms  has  a  large  cabinet  tilled  with  a 
sup])l\-  of  canned  tilings,  such  as  crackers,  fruit  and 
])oimd  cakes.  Cadbury's  Chocolates,  lleinz  Uaked 
I  leans,  and   at   manv  oi  the  stations   the   waiters   come 


ROUXl)  'PHI':  WORLD    l\   SILlCX'Cl':  83 

lo  the  windows  of  the  compartment  with  tra_\'s  of  hot 
tea.  One  can  also  bny  l)ottle(l  soda  and  fruit  on  the 
car.  but  we  are  warned  to  l)cware  of  the  tea  soUl  tlius 
as  one  cannot  l)e  sure  the  water  has  been  properly 
boiled  and  filtered.  We  are  continually  beini;-  warned 
not  to  touch  water  or  milk  that  has  not  been  boiled 
or  filtered,  and  warned  against  t^'cttiui;'  in  the  sunshine, 
ai^ainst  an\-  plusical  exertion,  and  in  fact,  are  warned 
about  so  man\-  thini^s  that  it  (|uite  makes  one  nervous, 
thougii  we  are  L^ratefid  for  the  kindly  thoui^ht.  We 
carry  a  bottle  of  boiled  water  in  our  tea  basket,  and 
kee])  a  su])])ly  of  Malted  Milk  and  Meat  Extract,  for 
use  on  the  trains,  and.  as  a  A-ariet\',  drink  bottled  soda, 
\vhich  is  horrid  tepid  stuff. 

I  am  ^ettiui^'  to  understand  the  money  at  last.  'iMie 
banks  cash  oiu'  American  b'xpress  Company's  checptes 
with  Eni^lish  t^'old  in  so\-ereii4'ns.  \'ou  can  imat^ine 
how  hea\-_\'  twent\'  of  these  arc.  In  Italy  we  could  i^'ct 
pa])er  money,  and  g"o  to  the  bank  often:  but  in  India  I 
ha\e  twice  alread\'  had  mv  funds  run  almost  to  zero 
before  1  could  ,L;'et  a  chance  to  re])lenish.  so  I  find  it 
necessary  to  carry  large  sums.  Then  the  nati\-e  mone_\- 
is  all  in  coin,  and  so  hea\y ;  and  a  su])])ly  of  small 
change  is  an  absolute  necessity.  (K^ing  to  the  bank 
here  is  a  serious  business,  as  it  takes  so  long.  \'ester- 
day  it  took  Miss  ("ira\'  and  me  exactl}'  one  hour  to  get 
two  tilt\-dolIar  checpies  cashed. 

While  at  luiroda  our  hosts  took  us  to  see  the 
Maharaja's  elephants,  one  afternoon.  There  were  half 
a  dozen  of  these  huge  creatures  with  ])ink  and  white 
ears  and  faces.  The}-  were  \ery  obedient  to  their 
kee])ers.  and.  on  the  word  being  gi\en.  one  of  them 
would  raise  a  forefoot   in  the  air.  on   which   the  nind)le 


84 


R()l;.\i)  'nil-:  world  i.\  siij-:.\ci': 


keeper  lca])C(l.  to  walk  u])  on  its  l)ack  and  down  ai^ain. 
One  of  them  had  a  larj^e  1)rass  disk  fastened  to  its 
head,  and  its  keeper,  seated  on  its  l)aek,  liad  a  siniihir 
(Hsk  before  liini.  A  baton  was  i)lace(l  in  v^ir  I'*le])liant"s 
trunk,  and  the  ])air  ga\e  us  some  beautiful  music.     The 


SXAKK   CIIARMIvRS.       I'.AKODA.    IXDIA 


howdahs  and  trappini^s  were  mai^nificent.  The\'  filled 
a  house  in  the  centre  of  the  court.  Iiowdahs  of  .L^old.  of 
siK'er,  ol  \-el\et  with  solid  .^old  and  silxer  embroidery. 
trap])in^"s  oi  xcKet  com])letel\'  co\ered  with  rich  em- 
broider\-   ol    L^old   and   siKer   thread.      Tlierc    were   lad- 


ROUXl)  TIIK  WORLD    IX   SIIJ'.NXH 


85 


(lers  and  t^oads  ot'  siKcr,  aiul  exerything  iov  use  in 
elep'nant  ridint;'  in  the  same  rich  metal. 

The  Laklishimi  X'ilhis  I'alace  tcnvers  over  the  dusty 
city,  from  tlie  midst  of  a  beautiful  coc^l  t;reen  i;arden. 
This  is  not  the  i)alace  where  the  Maharaja  resides,  but 
the  ])lace  where  his  jewels  are  kept.  They  are  dis- 
played in  i^iass  cases,  and  consist  of  a  mai^'niticent 
array  of  diamonds,  several  necklaces  of  live  or  seven 
rows  of  the  kinj^iv  jewels,  each  row  diminishint;-  in  size 
toward  the  back,  those  in  front  beino^  as  large  as  my 
thumb  nail,  bracelets.  fin<^"er  rings,  aigrets,  epaulets  of 
dianmnds  and  siher.  long  ropes  of  pearls  and  jewels 
of  e\ery  kind  in  every  shape. 

In  another  glass  case  against  the  \vall  there  was  a 
large  ])iece  of  excpiisite  end)roi(ler}'  made  entirely  of 
till}-  ])ear]s.  turcpioises  and  rubies.  —  most  wonderful, 
beautilul.  and  useless. 

In  a  guard  house  outside  the  garden  gate  of  this 
])alace  the  gold  and  siher  cannon  of  the  state  are  kept, 
each  (ine  weighing  two  hundred  and  eighty  ])ounds  of 
solid  gold  or  siher.  and  drawn  bv  milk-white  bulkicks 
that  are  ke])t  in  a  stable  near. 

( )ur  friends  next  gratified  our  desire  to  see  the 
-Maharaja,  the  owner  of  all  these  riches,  bv  gix'ing  a 
garden  ])arty.  the  inxitation  to  which  he  acce])ted.  (  )n 
the  c\enttu]  day  the  .Mission  grounds  were  beautifullv 
decorated  with  scores  ot  tUittering  ])ennants  I  luge 
garlands  oi  green  leaves  were  lestooned  from  post  ti» 
post  all  around  the  Com])ound.  (  )\er  the  gatewav  an 
arch  was  erected:  bunting  and  llags  added  a  note  of 
ciilor.  .\ati\e  ca\alr\'  were  stationed  along  the  road 
a>  the  .Maharaja  dro\r  up  in  a  s])lendi(l  carriage  with 
out-rider>.    accom])anie(]    b\-    his    eldest    son,    a    bright- 


86 


ROUXD  THI-:  WORLD   IX  S1IJ£XCI<: 


cved  vixacioiis  young"  fellow.  Prince  Faltesing  l\ao,  in 
conii)lete  European  array  except  for  his  turban,  which 
was  a  most  wf)n(lerful  editice  of  ])alest  laxender  gauze. 
The  Maharaja  himself  was  in  the  nati\e  dress,  wearing 
a  surcoat  of  finest  while  linen  with  sleexes  of  crei)e. 
lie  carried  a  curious  little  boucpiet  made  of  one  whole 
tlower,  surrounded  1)\'  rows  and  rows  of  sections  <il 
other  flowers  with  a  row  of  lea\-es  on  the  outside,  lie 
twisted  this  around  in  one  hand,  and  finally  ga\e  it  to 
the  ])retty  little  daugliter  of  one  of  the  missionaries. 
This  Maharaja  is  considered  the  most  intelligent  and 
])rogressi\e  of  the  natix'e  Indian  rulers.  lie  made  a 
tour  of  our  country  accomi)anie(l  h}-  his  consort,  the 
Maharanee,  a  coui)le  of  years  ago.  Ills  heir  was  edu- 
cated at  ( )xford  and  Cand)ri(lge.  and  his  other  son  is 
now  at  I  larxard. 

W  hen  darkness  fell,  the  ])retty  scene  was  made  e\en 
more  attractixe  l)y  the  multitude  of  twinkling  little 
lam])s  that  were  strung  from  tree  to  tree,  and  bv  the 
added  glow  of  the  colored  Chinese  lanterns. 

At  last  1  have  had  my  wish  to  ex])lore  a  native 
bazaar  to  m\-  heart's  content,  in  comi)an\-  with  the 
housekee])er  and  one  ot  the  \-oung  ladx'  hel])ers  from 
the  Mission  School.  We  went  from  one  little  hole  in 
the  wall  to  another,  until  I  had  accumulated  a  full  set 
of  natixe  jewelry,  ear-rings,  toe-rings,  nose  jewels,  and 
glass  bracelets.  At  another  little  box  of  a  ])lace.  in  the 
search  for  Decca  Muslin,  the  storekee])er's  a>sistant 
handed  down  to  him  as  he  sat  cross-legged  on  the 
lloor.  bundle  after  bundle,  tied  u])  in  white  cloth, 
which,  on  being  un\\ra])])e(l.  showed  such  treasures  of 
sheer  tabric.  embroidered  or  glittering  with  gold,  as 
would    deliuiit    the    heart    of    an\-    ^irl.       I    was    ^realK" 


ROUXI)  Till-:   WORLD   IX   SILl^XCl-: 


87 


interested  in  \vatchin<;'  the  women  stamping'  cotton 
cloth.  The  whfile  len^tli  of  one  street  they  were  at 
work  on  the  floor  of  the  piazzas  —  to  call  them  by  a 
])retentions  name.  —  in  front  of  their  houses,  with  the 
cldth  on  a  board  before  them.  stami)in<;"  it  all  o\er, 
yard  by  yard,  with  a  stani])  a  few  inches  s(|uare. 
i\\er\- where  there  were  festoons  of  lea\es  hani^ing'  in 
the  doorways  and  across  the  front  of  the  lupuses,  as  a 
charm  against  e\'il  s])irits. 

'i'ell  the  children  that  one  of  the  ladies  at  Uaroda 
broiii^ht  a  mosc|nito  net  with  her,  and  as  there  were  no 
supports  for  the  net  on  her  strin;^'  bed,  she  dra])ed  it 
o\er  her  oi)en  mubrella,  like  a  ])la\-  hcnise. 

h'rom  ilaroda  we  went  on  to  Ajmere.  an  important 
cit\-  in  l\ai])Utana.  another  all  da_\-  and  all  nii^iit  ride. 
Alis^iitinn'  from  the  train,  in  the  lam])-lit  station,  in  the 
earlv  hours  of  Christmas  morning-,  and  again  as  1  sat 
shixering  in  the  gharry,  watching  the  da\-  lu'eak,  dur- 
ing the  (lri\e  to  the  Mission,  my  thoughts  flew  otf  to 
\'ou  dear  ones  lar  away,  and  I  wondered  what  xou 
were  all  doing.  .\  beautiful  welcome  awaited  us,  kind 
hands  drew  us  up  to  the  grate  fire  and  hel])e(l  us  off 
with  our  wrajjs.  After  breakfast  we  all  went  to 
church.  A  uund>er  of  nati\e  ])aslors  took  part  in  the 
^er\ices,  and  it  was  interesting  to  watch  their  ha])])y 
faces.  Church  o\er.  we  were  taken  to  see  the  city,  it 
is  situated  at  the  toot  ol  a  rock\-  and  ])ictures(pie  hill. 
There  is  an  artificial  lake  with  white  marble  pa\ilions 
along  it>  bank,  that  were  erected  1)\'  the  l{m])eror  Shah 
bdian  :  ])rett\-  \illas  with  gardens,  a  \er\-  handsome 
white  stone  building,  the  .Maxo  College  lor  the  educa- 
tion   ol     \oinig     l\ai;)ut     ])riuccs.    surronnile(l    b\'     fine 


S8  ROl-XD  Tnr<,  WORLD    IX  SILKXCI-, 

l)uil(liniis  u>V(\  as  dorniitorics.  and  a  curious  jain 
tem])le. 

It  (lid  not  seem  one  hit  like  Christmas,  tliouL^ii  the}- 
had  the  dinner  tahle  decorated  with  red  ])a])er  and 
holly,  and  i,;a\e  us  a  real  J'jii^Iish  ])lum  ])U(l(linL;'. 

It  was  noon  the  next  da\-  when  our  train  rolled  into 
Jaipur    station:    and    we    had    had    no    hreakfast.      The 


eoru'i'  i\  'I'lii-:  maiiaraia'S  i'ai.aci;.      iaiitk 


])lace  swarmed  with  merchants,  laden  with  wea]ions 
and  the  inlaid  brass  that  is  so  ty])ical  of  the  ]\ast. 
Thex'  lav  in  wait  lor  us  as  we  ate:  and  beyond  lay 
Jaipur  callin.L;"  loudly  of  her  charms.  It  is  the  \-er_\- 
(|uaintest.  ])inkest  cit\-  in  the  world!  A  crenellated 
wall  of  masonr\-  surrounds  its  rows  of  bright  rose-])ink 
iKHises.  with  bold  ])atterns  ol  wliite  stencil  on  their 
fronts.       'Idle    crowded    bazaars    are    ])iclures(|ue.    the 


ROUXl)  Till-    WORLD    IX  vSILEX'CK  89 

public  i^ardens  are  the  finest  in  India,  and  a  fine 
nuiseuni  of  oriental  works  of  art  and  anti(|nities  is 
hotised  in  a  handsome  modern  building  in  the  midst 
of  this  garden. 

Jaipur  is  the  residence  of  the  .Maharaja  of  Rajput. 
11  is  ])alace  is  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  high  wall,  inside  this  there  are  a  series 
of  courts.  The  gem  of  the  palace  is  the  marble  "'  hall 
of  ])rivate  audience  "" :  its  effect,  however,  is  s])oiled  bv 
the  gaudil}-  u])holstered  chairs  with  Avhich  it  was 
filled.  This  ])alace  has  beautiful  gardens,  pleasure 
grounds,  and  a  fern  house  that  made  a  delicious  green 
retreat  from  the  dust  and  glare  outside. 

We  peeped  into  a  so-called  factory  for  brass  wtjrk. 
It  was  just  a  tiny  court-yard,  with  the  workers  sitting 
at  tables  under  co\er  on  the  side;  and  in  one  corner  a 
little  corkscrew  stairway  led  upstairs  to  a  room  where 
the  finished  work  was  displayed  for  sale.  I  could  have 
spent  the  da}-  looking  over  the  fascinating  things  there, 
but  was  called  to  start  at  once  for  the  drive  to  Amber, 
the  old  capital.  —  Jaipur  is  the  modern  capital.  — 
about  fi\e  miles  away.  It  woidd  ha\'e  been  an  enjoy- 
able dri\e  if  it  had  not  been  for  the  choking  dust. 
After  (lri\ing  about  tor  an  hour,  we  came  to  the  foot 
ot  a  long  hill,  where  we  were  to  lea\e  the  carriage,  to 
finish  the  tri])  nu  elephants.  To  get  u])  to  the  howdah, 
we  had  to  clind)  u])  a  small  ladder,  which  was  then 
hooked  on  beUtw.  and  oiu"  big  elephaiU  started  off. 
Mis  gait  was  not  im])leasant,  —  just  a  gentle  swing- 
ing mo\ement.  —  and    I    enjoyed   the   ride   immenselw 

The    road    was    very    steej).      We   clind)e(l    sexeral    hills, 
and   then    we  turned   into  the   court\ard  of  the   ])alace. 

There    we    dismounted,    asct'uded    the    grand    stairwav. 


90 


ROUXI)  THK  WORLD  IX   STLEXCE 


and  tlien  was  J  in  tlie  i)alace  of  my  dreams.  There 
were  halls,  i^lorious  with  mar])les  and  mosaics.  0])en- 
ing'  on  gardens  in  which  fountains  threw  up  their 
glittering  s])ra\- :  rooms  adorned  with  panels  of  ala- 
baster inlaid  with  flowers,  the  roofs  glittering  with 
mirrors  inlaid  among  the  car\ing:  rooms  all  of  white 
marble,  with  latticed  balconies,  and  windows  through 
wdiich  we  could  look  down  on  the  dreaming  lake 
below,  and  away  on  the  high  hills  that  girt  the  valley 
around.  'Jdie  sun  had  set,  and  the  shado\v\-  corners 
were  ])eo])le(l  with  the  gh.osts  of  those  who  had  li\-ed 
and  lo\'ed  there,  so  long  ago. 

The  moon  rose  as  we  got  into  our  carriage,  the 
witchery  of  its  light  ])rolonging  the  s])ell  that  had 
fallen  u])on  us  in  the  old  ])alace.  Inside  the  cit\-  walls 
again,  we  sto])])e(l  where  torch-lights  flared  out  tmder 
some  trees,  to  turn  o\er  the  curious  things  spread  out 
on  some  stalls  there.  Then,  going  on  to  the  station, 
we  had  dinner,  hunted  u])  our  car,  —  which  was  on  a 
siding,  —  and  went  to  bed.  The  train  came  and  car- 
ried us  away,  long  after  we  had  entered  the  land  of 
dreams.  .\ext  morning,  when  the  sto])  for  breakfast 
came,  tor  the  hrst  time  we  ha])])ened  ou  a  dining-room 
where  no  one  knew  an\-  hjiglish  ;  so  we  had  to  take 
\vhate\er  we  could  get,  which  turned  out  to  be  bread 
and  butter  only.  W  ith  this  we  had  to  be-  couteiit  until 
we  reached   Delhi  at  two  o'clock. 

1  had  been  looking  forward  more  to  I  )elhi  than  to 
an\thing  else  in  India  excej)!  tlie  'I'aj  Mahal:  but  the 
])alace  was  a  disai)i)ointmeut ,  so  much  of  it  had  been 
remo\ed  since  the  mutiny  that  it  was  not  eas\-  to 
imagine  it  as  it  had  been  then.  The  beautiful  l)ewan 
Khass,  famed  a>  our  oi   ilu'  mo>l   Lirat'elul  buildiuL'^  in 


ROUXD  THK  WORLD   TX  SILFAXR  91 

the  world,  had  its  marble  eohimns  white-washed  and 
was  turned  into  a  hospital.  Jt  has  now  been  some- 
what restored.  The  precious  stones  with  which  its 
walls,  arches,  and  pillars  were  completel}-  inlaid  ha\e 
been  replaced  by  colored  ^lass.  Jt  is  over  one  of  the 
arches  in  this  hall  that  the  Persian  inscri])ti()n  ai)])ears 
that  is  translated. 

"  If  there  be  a  paradise  on  the  face  of  the  earth, 
This  is  it,  this  is  it,  this  is  it." 

The  peacock  throne  was  in  this  hall.  This  throne 
has  two  peacocks  with  tails  expanded,  and  a  mass  of 
tliamonds,  sai)])hires.  rubies,  ])earls  and  emeralds  re- 
present the  natural  colorint^".  On  either  side,  between 
these  ])eacocks.  was  a  life-sized  parrot,  said  to  have 
been  cut  from  a  single  emerald.  'i'hink  of  this 
wondrous  hall  as  it  was,  the  soft  sheen  of  the  marble 
and  i^iitter  of  s^ems  on  its  walls,  the  peacock  throne 
restored,  with  the  (ireat  AIoi^ul  upon  its  i^'olden  seat, 
his  crown  with  its  twelve  diamonds  surmounted  b_\' 
the  I\(»h-i-noor,  his  jewelled  ])erson  and  dazzliui^'  crowd 
of  courtiers  I  Another  reminder  of  the  ancient  splen- 
dor are  the  Royal  IJaths,  three  lar^e  rooms  floored 
with  white  marble,  with  channels  throui^h  which  the 
water  ran.  luich  room  has  beautifull}-  inlaid  walls  and 
a  fountain  in  the  centre. 

In  an  outside  court  stands  the  beautiful  little  "  I'earl 
.Mos(|ue"'.  built  entirely  of  white  and  L;re\-  marble. 
There  was  absolutely  nothing'  in  the  little  ])earl-white 
room  but  a  tlij^ht  of  ste])S  leadirn^'  to  a  low  ])latform 
running"  across  one  end  of  the  room,  h'ach  slab  in  the 
marble  lloor  is  just  the  riL^ht  length  for  one  to  kneel 
ujion  and  bow    tin-  forehead  to  the   lloor.  as  is  the    .Mo- 


92 


ROUXD  TllK  WORLD    I  X  SILEX'CE 


hamniedan  fashion  for  prayer.  We  were  shown  the 
Maharaja's  own  prayini^'  shil). 

Leavint;-  bcliind  the  Palace  and  the  f(^rt,  the  strong- 
hold of  the  ]\Iogul  Em])erors.  with  its  red  sandstone 
walls,  we  turned  our  faces  toward  the  great  Jama 
Masjid,  sui)posed  to  be  the  largest  nioscpie  in  the 
world,  built  of  red  sandstone  inlaid  with  \\  hite  marble. 
and  aj^proached  l)y  a  grand  flight  of  steps  with  a  great 
gateway  on  each  of  three  sides.  In  the  inside  is  a  huge 
(juadrangle  with  a  fountain  in  the  centre :  an  open 
cloister  surrounds  three  sides,  and  the  Alosepie  itself 
is  on  the  fourth,  entered  by  a  short  dight  of  steps,  at 
the  foot  of  which  attendants  wait  to  co\-er  the  feet  of 

unbelie\ers  '"  before  allowing  them  to  enter. 

Jn  one  corner  of  the  court  is  a  shrine,  in  which  are 
ke])t  relics  of  the  I'ro])het  .Mohammed.  TheN-  are  an 
impression  in  marble  of  his  foot,  and  a  glass  case  con- 
taining one  red  hair  from  his  beard  I 

l)y  this  time  the  sun  was  setting;  and  thougli  I 
longed  to  see  the  Koodsia  (lardens.  the  h'lag-stalT 
'J'ower.  and  other  ])laces  in  Delhi  interesting  as  con- 
nected with  the  Mutiny,  the  rest  of  the  ])art_\-  were  sure 
we  should  return  to  the  station,  consoling  me  with  the 
prospect  of  a  return  to  Delhi  later.  Indian  cities  are 
really  no  ])lace  in  which  to  be  abroad  after  dark. 
.-\fter  dinner  we  amused  ourseK'cs  as  well  as  we  could 
in  the  dingy  waiting-room  until  our  good  .\lr.  Lee 
brought  us  the  welcome  news  that  our  car  was  oi)en. 
The  lights  had  not  been  connected,  so  he  went  oiu  to 
the  bazaar  and  bought  some  candles,  thus  enabling  us 
to  uni)ack  our  bedding  and  make  ourseK'es  comfort- 
able. Don't  \ou  think  wh'  are  getting  (|uiU'  <easiine(l 
to  makinsj'  the  best  ol  exerxthins'' .' 


R(n".\i)  'I'lii-:  woRi.i)  i\  siU'.xci': 


9^ 


It  was  noon  llic  next  day  when  we  readied  llareillx-, 
where  we  had  \ery  eonifortable  (|uarters  at  the 
.Metho<Hst  ( )r|)liana!:4"e.  and  settled  down  for  a  rest. 
( )ur  hostess  was  kinchiess  itself.  1  am  stire  there  ne\er 
was  tea  and  toast  that  tasted  better  than  that  she  sent 
lip  for  our  chota  ha/.ari  each  morning-.  The  l)ank 
where   our   mail    had    been    collectinu'    for   two    months 


rill';  .Miri'iioDisT  ori'hax.vc.k  .\r  ]\.\r\:\\.\,\' 


was  closed  for  the  holidays,  l)ut  in  some  way  or  other 
she  managed  to  o^t  our  letters  for  us  at  once.  The 
house  was  the  most  home-like  ])lace  we  had  seen  since 
lea\ini;'  America,  the  ])arlor  coziness  itsell  with  its 
blazing'  wood  lire,  its  eas\-  chairs  with  their  ])retly 
cushions,  il>  labk-  with  I)ooks  and  papers,  and  its  \ase 
ol  beautilul  r()Si'S,  fresh  each  morning'.  In  our  bi^ 
upper  room,  which  opened  on  a  ])iazza  encircliuL;  three 


94  ROL'XI)  'IMIIC  WOklJ)   1\   SILI'INCI'. 

sides  of  the  liouse.  the  doors  —  there  were  doors  in- 
stead of  windows  —  stood  o])en  all  day  lonL;".  and  the 
S([iiirrels,  eunnini^'  little  thin!:;s.  ran  in  and  out. 

'Jdie  Methodist  l^pisco])al  Mission  at  liareilK-  is 
(juite  a  little  \illaL;e,  ownin;^'  o\-er  sixt\-  aeres  n\ 
14'round.  and  ha\in^'.  beside  the  or])hanai4'e.  a  ehureh,  a 
hospital,  and  a  theoloi^ical  sehool.     The  homes  of  the 


■rill',  oKi'iiAXAC.i';  ciRi.s  AT  l!ARl••.rr.l.^' 


missionaries  are  ])retty  l)nn,L;'alow-s  with  beautiful  .gar- 
dens, it  is  some  distanee  Irom  the  eani])  of  the  \\nix- 
lish  soldiers  and  homes  of  their  offieers.  the  h'nj^iish 
ehureh  and  hos])ital.  'idie  natix'e  eit\-  lies  in  the  other 
direetion.  llareilly  has  not  mueh  to  otter  in  the  way 
ot  sii^iit-seein^".  Miss  (ira\'  and  I  had  some  excitement 
ridin,!4'  in  an  ekd<:a.  1  must  send  xou  a  ])ieture  of  one. 
We  had  to  double  up  on  those   little  side  sheKes  and 


ROrXI)  'IMII".   WORLD    IX   SILl'.XCK  95 

liold    on    tor   all    \vc    were    worth.      ( )h.    a    camel    is    a 


leather-bed    in    ci  unpariM  in    with    an    ekka.      We    w  fr^ 


96 


ROrXI)  Till".   WORLD    IX   SILl'-XC]*: 


havinj;-  the  native  tailor  at  the  bazaar  make  us  some 
waists,  and  as  the  ekkas  seemed  to  be  the  only  sort  of 
])ublie  eomevance  to  be  had  in  the  city,  we  had  to 
patronize  them  se\-eral  times,  cmert^ino-  from  the  fray 
with  e\erv  bone  dislocated,  but  with  two  very  pretty 
waists  as  a  reward.  The  axenues  of  bamboo  trees 
were  es])ecially  beautiful,  and  families  of  monkeys  sat 
on  the  ed^e  of  the  road,  staring'  solemid}-  at  us  as  \\c 
bumj)ed  past  them,  and  seeming  to  say  to  each  other. 
"  Did   \-ou  e\er  see  an\thino'  like  those  (lueer  Ameri- 


I{ach  (la_\-  we  would  emerge  froni  the  house  to  find 
the  i>iazza  and  lawn  ])e()ple(l  with  uatix'e  merchants 
with  wonderful  rugs,  shawls,  brass  work  and  eni- 
broiderw 

I  am  finishing  this  letter  up  abo\-e  the  clouds.  We 
are  now  at  N'aini  d'al.  a  beautiful  s])ot  on  the  slo]>e  of 
the  llimalavas.  We  came  u])  from  I'areillv  vesterdaw 
A  ride  of  more  than  four  Ikuu's  brought  us  to  Kath- 
godam.  the  end  of  the  railwav  line,  where  there  is  a 
prett}'  little  station  covered  with  ])ur])le  l)ougain\illea  : 
these  Indian  country  stations  are  often  \ery  ])ictiu'- 
es(|uc.  All  our  baggage  exce])t  hand  bags  and  bedding 
was  left  in  the  car  read}-  for  the  return:  and  after 
haxiug  breakfast  in  the  station,  we  were  i)Ul  into  ton- 
gas. —  two-wheeled  carts  seating  four  persons,  —  our 
bedding  was  lashed  on  the  sides,  and  the  rest  of  the  im- 
])e(limenta  were  tticked  in  arotmd  us.  Then  the  ca\-al- 
cade  started.  The  stiu'dy  hill  ])onies  were  fresh,  and 
ke])t  u])  a  gallo])  all  the  way:  the  road  was  hue.  with 
a  gradual  ascent.  W  hen  an  h'ngiishman  makes  a  road 
it  is  a  good  one.  .Monke\s  chattered  at  us  trom  the 
trees,   bii"'   urex'    comical-U>oking    tellows.    with    a    bush 


ROUXl)  THE  WORLD   TX  SlLEXCl* 


97 


9cS 


ARoL'xi)  'nil':  WOULD  i.\  siijcxci': 


of  white  liair  around  llicir  faces,  just  like  a  ruflled 
ni<iht  ca]).  Olorioiis  \ie\vs  unfolded  at  e\er\-  turn. 
The  (hstant  mormtains  were  not  so  s:;reen  and  thickl\- 
wooded  as  I  had  e.\])ected  :  1)ut  tlien,  it  was  januarw 
They  also  lacked  the  lo\"ely  colorini^'  of  our  California 
mountains ;  but  they  rise.  ])eak  after  ])eak.  in  threat 
majesty,  and,  cominii'  u])  from  the  dust\'  ])lains,  the\- 
arc  es])eciall\-  attractixc. 


A  l).\\l>^' 


(  )ur  toni^a  led  the  way,  and  we  sto])])ed  ti\e  times 
lo  chanj^c  horses.  There  were  I  wiMity-lixe  in  our 
partv,  so  we  made  a  lon^'  ])rocession.  At  last  a  hall 
came,  and  a  transfer  to  the  dandies  that  were  to  take 
us  the  remainin,^'  three  miles.  These  dandies  look 
somethiuLi'  like  a  little  boat,  hold  one  i)erson,  and  ours 
were  carried  bv  four  coolies,  two  in  Iron!  and  two  be- 
hind, with  the  ])oles  of  the  dandy  resting;'  on  their 
shoulders.     The  rest  of  the  way  was  uj)  a  path  so  stec]) 


ROL'Xl)  Till'.   WORLD    IX   SlLICXCl-: 


99 


as  to  he  almost  ])cr])ciulicular  in  places,  and  with  sharp 
turns.  1  held  my  hreath.  at  first,  as  I  watched  the 
men  feelinj^'  for  a  footint.;.  It  was  mid-afternoon  by 
this  lime  and  \er\-  cold.  The  thick  i;olf  cape  T  wore 
on  top  of  my  coat,  with  a  steamer  rus;"  tnckcd  in  o\er 
all,  was  none  too  warm.  1  was  so  sorrv  t'or  the  poor 
coolies,  who  were  carr_\inj4'  ns  so  carefully  and 
patiently,  for  the_\-  were  barefoot  and  half  clad  in  the 
bitini;-  air.  h'inall}-  a  shar])  turn  in  the  path  brotii^ht  tis 
out  close  to  a  beautiful  lake,  siu-rounded  by  hills,  all 
dotted  o\er  with  houses.  This  house,  the  Welleslc}- 
Ciirls'  vSchool.  is  half  way  u])  the  hill,  and  beautifully 
situated  on  a  small  ])lateau.  The  ^irls  are  all  away  on 
a  vacation  and  the  \  ice-princii)al  came  up  yesterday  to 
open  the  house  and  is  entertaining'  us  rovallw  \\v 
room  is  at  the  end  of  a  loni;"  (juter  jailer}-,  and  has  a 
bay  window  looking'  down  on  the  garden  and  the  lake, 
with  a  inlorious  \-iew  of  the  distant  i^a])  in  the  hills 
through  which  we  had  come  on  otu"  wav  ii]).  Jt  be^an 
to  rain  while  we  were  at  dinner,  with  thunder, 
lii^'htninj^',  and  a  hea\-y  down-pour  all  nit^ht,  makiui^'  us 
thankful  for  oiu"  snu^"  (piarters.  It  was  the  first  rain 
we  had  had  since  we  left  .Madras,  and  this  mornins^' 
we  woke  to  find  a  thick  foL;-.  It  has  rained,  hailed,  and 
snowed  in  turn  all  da\-.  but  the  blazing'  m'rate  fires 
make  it  cheerlnl.  There  are  i)lent\-  of  books  and  late 
ma,i;azines.  and  what  with  xisitiuL;'  toj^ether  in  tlu' 
])leasant  home-like  rooms,  and  e.\])lorin^'  the  bij^'  house 
with  il^  sun  ])arlor.  dormitories,  courts  and  odd  little 
rooms  tucked  on  ontside  and  gained  1)\'  an  oiUside 
stair.  \\e  ha\e  siK'ut  a  delightful  daw 


II II I 


ROL'XI)  Tllli   WORIJJ    i.\   S1LKXC1-: 


X 


S.  S.  r.ano-ala. 


I 'J'  seems  a  loni;-  lime  since  that  evening'  at  Xaini 
Tal  \\iicn  I  wrote  sitting  cosily  at  a  lamp-lit  table 
beside  a  glowing  grate  fire.  Xow  1  am  in  the  cabin 
of  a  steamer  on  the  llooghly  Ivi\-er  en  route  from 
Calcutta  to  Rangoon,  and  am  thankful  that  there  is  no 
tire  near. 

We  had  a  glorious  ride  down  the  momitain  from 
Xaini  Tal.  The  morning  was  ])erfeet  :  the  air  crystal 
clear  after  the  storm  of  the  da}'  before:  a  light  fall  of 
snow  coN'crcd  the  garden.  J  had  been  u])  and  around 
earh',  all  excitement,  taking  i)ictures  and  enjoying  the 
fresh  air  and  lo\'ely  \'iews.  About  ten  o'clock  our  long 
])roccssion  of  dandies  mo\-ed  oft,  amidst  thntering 
handkerchiefs  and  grateful  last  words.  The  sun>hiiie 
on  the  melting  snow  made  e\'er_\'thing'  s])arkle.  l'leec\ 
cloudlets  sailed  through  the  blue  sk\'  that  o\-erhung'  a 
g'lad.  beautiful  world.  (  )ur  dandy-1)earers  cre])t  down- 
^\■ard  o\-er  the  slii)per\'  ])aths  with  greatest  caution. 
sto])])ing  once  or  twice  to  rest  and  exchange  ga\'  words 
with  the  sturdy  hill  women  with  nose  rings  as  large  as 
bracelets,  who  were  taking  down  our  bales  ol  ])edding. 
The  tongas  were  \\  aiting  where  we  had  left  them  :  our 
bedding  was  again  lashed  on  the  sides  and  soon  we 
were  speeding  along.  The  downward  ride  was  e\en 
niore  enjoxable  than  the  ascent.  It  was  two  o'clock 
when  we  reached  Kathgodam,  and  there  was  iu>t  time 
enough    to    eat    our    luncheon    comfortabK     befori'    the 


ROl'XD  Till-:   WORLD   1  X  SILEXCF.  101 

train  started  lor  l.ucknow.  There  was  no  railway- 
restaurant  on  the  \\a\-.  so  our  exeuint;'  meal  had  to 
eonie  out  of  the  tea  ])asket  and  the  ever-useful  eracker 
box.  The  ni^hl  was  bitterly  eold.  with  a  searehin^' 
wind  that  eanie  in  throut;]i  exery  eraek.  and  1  was  ^iad 
when  inornin^'  eaine.  (  )ur  train  was  lour  hours  late 
in  reaeliinj;'  Lueknow  ,  where  our  kind  friends  had  been 
waitiui^-  all  thai  time.  They  took  us  to  the  Isabel 
'Idioburn  CoIIej^e,  where  a  warm  weleome.  ])leasanl 
rooms,  and  a  t^ood  breakfast  awaited  us. 

Of  eourse  the  hrsl  thini^-  we  wished  to  see  was  the 
l\esi(lene\-.  that  uKMuunent  of  hjii^land's  enduranee  and 
braverv.  It  stands  inside  extensixe  park-like  grounds. 
The  houses  that  \xere  near  at  the  time  haxe  been  taken 
do\xn.  We  droxe  throuLih  an  ()])en  i^atexxax'  in  a  loxv 
xxall  and  u])  to  the  ruins  of  the  liailey  (lUard  (lateway, 
\xhere  xxe  left  the  earriaii^e  and  xxalked  on  to  tlie  Resi- 
denex'.  the  ruins  of  whieli  rise  Irom  i^rassv  slo])es  and 
are  elothed  with  brilliantly  tlowering'  \-ines.  It  is 
almost  a  eom])lete  ruin,  l)ut,  surrounded  with  loxely 
gardens  and  ke])t  with  teuderest  eare,  it  is  xerx'  beau- 
tiful, h'.xerx'  ste])  w  a>  full  of  sad  interest.  At  a  little 
distanee  from  the  Ke^idenex-  is  the  ISegam  Kothi. 
whieh  \x  as  almost  in  the  eenlre  ol  the  detenses  and  has 
lofix-  underground  riMiiiis  with  many  little  rooms  or 
reeesses  in  their  walls.  It  was  here,  in  these  under- 
ground rooms,  that  the  two  hundred  and  filtx'  women 
an<l  fixe  Inmdred  t-hildren  were  ke])t.  Thex'  xxere  so 
crowded  tliat,  as  one  ol  them  alterwards  xxrote,  xxhen 
thcw  lax'  do\xu,  Ixing  on  the  lloor,  tluw  htled  into  each 
other  like  bit-^  in  a  pu/zle.  Thex-  ate  the  coarsest  food, 
and  w-ere  clad  in  whati-\er  ihex'  liap])cmed  to  be  \xear- 
mv   \x  In-n  the  (-;lII  Iij  rcli-cal   i-ame.     (  )ne  I'an  imaijine  a 


102  ROUXD  Tin-:  WORLD    IX   SlLl-'-N'OE 

little  of  the  heat  and  misery  of  th(xse  lon^'  siininicr 
(lays.  I'ieture  the  weary  little  ones,  the  brave  and 
])atient  mothers  torn  with  fear  for  the  husband  and 
father  ti^L^htini^"  o\-erhead  and  for  the  hel])less  little  ones 
with  them  :  imai^ine  the  torture  of  hearing'  ineessant 
noise  of  firini^'  all  around,  'idiere  is  a  model  in  one  ol 
the  rooms  whieh  shows  the  buildings  and  their  sur- 
roundini4S  at  the  time.  When  one  studies  it  and  real- 
izes how  elosely  the  enemy  invested  the  ])laee.  it 
seems  mar\-ellous  that  any  one  esea])ed.  The  room  in 
which  Sir  Henry  I^awrence  died  is  a  ruin.  His  i4'ra\e 
is  in  a  cemetery  near  bv,  surrounded  b\'  those  of  two 
thousand  f)thers  killed  at  the  time. 

Lucknow  was  the  capital  of  the  l\in*4S  of  Oudh.  and 
is  full  of  the  i)alaces  the  different  kini^'s  built  for  them- 
sehes.  The  last  kini^"  had  a  thousand  wives,  each  lady 
having"  her  own  a])artments  and  attendants;  conse- 
(juently  his  zenana  palace  was  the  lari^est  of  all.  There 
IS  a  collection  of  ])ortraits  of  these  kiuL^s  in  the  Taluk- 
dars  Hall,  'idiey  are  all  fat.  u<4'K'.  and  covered  with 
jewels.  There  was  one  ])()rtrait  so  remarkably  ui^iy 
that  we  slathered  around  it  to  look  well  at  the  ugliest 
man  we  had  e\er  seen.  .\  few  moments  later  1  looked 
back  and  obser\-ed  that  the  attendants  had  drawn  the 
curtains  that  huni;,'  from  the  frame.  It  was  the  only 
one  with  curtains:  and  when  1  asked  about  it  1  was 
told  it  was  a  ])ortrait  of  W'ajid  Ali  Shah,  the  last  Kin^' 
of  ()udh.  and  his  ])ortrait  was  ke]>t  covered  by  order 
of  the  I'jii^iish  ( jo\ernment. 

The  \eranda  adjoiniuL^"  this  Hall  looks  down  on  a 
l)ictures(pie  reservoir,  and  on  a  hue  clock  tower  at  a 
little  distance.  .\'ear  ])\  i>  an  untinished  tower,  com- 
menct'd    1)\-    Mohammt'd    Ali    Shah.       He    planned    that 


Rorxi)  'v\\\-:  WORT, I)  ix  silexck 


103 


this  should  l)e  tlie  lii^hcst  tower  in  tlic  world,  but  died 
when  he  had  built  onlv  four  stories.  The  Alachli 
llharran  or  l*alace  of  U.^ht  was  built  by  this  same 
.Mohanmied  as  a  l)urial  ])lace.  It  stands  in  a  lar^e 
(|uadran_i;le.  through  the  centre  of  which  runs  a  lout.;" 
and  wide  marble  reser\-oir  ftdl  of  water,  surrounded 
bv  lam])s  and  crossed  1>\'  an  arched  iron  bridge.  The 
ettect  of  the  liL^iited  lam])s  on  the  water  was  most 
beatitiftd.  The  huunbarah  I  lall  is  tilled  with  mirrors 
and  chandeliers.  'idle  t;ra\es  of  the  kin^-  and  his 
(|ueen,  in  the  paxement.  are  surroimded  b\'  a  tence  of 
beaten  sih'er.  with  a  canoi)\-  of  the  same.  .\t  one  end 
of  the  hall  stands  the  kind's  throne,  which  is  simj)l\'  a 
fli^iit  of  eii^iit  ste])s  coxered  with  beaten  siher.  the 
to])  step  beint^'  the  kind's  seat.  It  looked  anythiu!^-  but 
comfortable. 

Jn  another  part  of  the  hall  is  a  curiotis  edifice,  se\en 
feet  hi,nii.  in  a  ])latform  about  ti\e  feet  scpiare.  It  is  a 
miniature  tem])le.  made  of  isini^iass  and  wax.  'idle 
.Moliammedans  carr\-  these.  e\er\-  \-ear.  in  the  h\'sli\al 
ol  Li^lit.  and  afterwards  the  wax  teni])le  is  btiried 
under,L;round.      l'",acli  year  a  new  one  is  made. 

liefore  the  i^reat  Inambarah  is  a  \-ast  courtyard 
with  arcades  all  around  the  wall,  where  the  Moham- 
medans ]i\e  when  they  come  here  tor  a  .Mela  or  h'air. 
W  liat  an  interesting;'  si^ht  it  must  be  when  it  is  tilled 
with  ])eo])le!  (  )n  the  west  side  of  the  courtyard  is  a 
]oft\-  nios(|ue  with  two  minarets,  and  on  the  south 
>ide  is  the  \ast  structure  of  the  Inambarah.  It  was 
^ettiu^'  dark,  so  we  spent  only  a  few  minutes  in  the 
^reat  hall,  which  lias  one  of  the  highest  \aulled  ^al- 
lcrie>  in  the  windd. 

(  )n  ihr  ca>l   si(U'  nf  the  (piadran^le  is  a   hn^f  rmmd 


104  ROUXD  Tlllv  WORLD  IX  SILENCE 

tower  with  arched  galleries  on  each  floor  around  the 
well  that  fills  the  middle  of  the  tower.  Standing  there 
in  the  dusk,  looking  down  on  the  black  ^vater,  it 
seemed  as  if  we  could  really  see  the  unhapj^y  ladies 
who,  when  their  Mohammedan  husbands  had  become 
tired  of  them,  were  thrust  into  this  well,  'i'he  three 
of  us  were  alone,  and  the  dim  galleries  around  us  were 
\ery  eerie. 

'Jdie  call  to  prayer  was  sounding  from  the  mos(|ue 
opposite  just  as  we  emerged  from  the  tower,  and  my 
companions,  hearing  it  for  the  first  time,  stopped  to 
listen. 

Our  friends  took  us  to  \'ictoria  Park  for  a  picnic 
under  the  trees,  close  to  the  house  once  occu])ied  by 
the  first  missionary  to  Lucknow.  They  were  exceed- 
ingly kind  to  us  at  the  College,  'idle  princi])le.  \icc- 
princijial,  and  the  four  bright  attractive  young  lady 
teachers,  were  ever  ready  to  entertain  us,  answer  any 
(|uestions.  or  do  anything  jjossible  to  make  our  stav 
delightful.  The  college  girls  themsehcs  were  like 
college  girls  the  world  o\-er,  —  the  most  attractixe 
of  girlhood. 

Cawnpore  is  only  thirty-fi\e  miles  from  Lucknow, 
and  we  started  for  that  place  earlv  one  morning,  but 
it  was  nearly  noon  when  our  train  rolled  into  the  sta- 
tion. Iveaving  our  hea])  of  hand  baggage  in  the  care 
of  a  native  woman  in  the  waiting-room,  the  six  of  us, 
in  two  carriages,  went  out,  surrovmded  bv  a  cloud  of 
dust,  to  see  all  \ve  could  of  the  city,  —  a  most  unat- 
tractive ])lace.  There  were  more  idols  there  than  we 
had  seen  anywhere.  Xearl_\-  every  house  liad  its  little 
outside  shrine,  with  a  hideous  red  idol  and  bunch  ot 
flowers.      l-'rom    hot    and    dust\'    streets,    our    carriages 


ROL'Xl)  Till':   WORLD    i  X  SILKXCl':  105 

turned  into  the  i^recn  enclosure  of  the  Memorial  (lar- 
(lens.  They  are  not  large,  but  are  well  kept  and  very 
beautiful,  luicli  carriage  is  required  to  proceed  at  a 
walking  pace,  in  accordance  with  the  solemnity  of  the 
])lace.  in  the  centre  of  the  gardens,  on  a  mound  sur- 
rounded by  a  screen  whose  gateway  is  continvially 
watched  by  an  hjigiish  soldier,  a  beatitiful  marble 
angel  has  been  ])laced  over  the  well  where  the  bodies 
of  the  women  and  children  were  thrown  on  the  day  ot 
the  massacre,  'i'he  little  house  where  the  massacre 
took  place  has  been  destroyed,  and.  as  far  as  possible, 
all  painful  exidences  ha\-e  been  remo\-ed.  .Ml  is  ])eace 
and  beaut\'  now. 

The  Memt)rial  Church  is  some  distance  away,  built 
on  part  of  the  ground  that  was  within  the  hastil_\- 
thrown-u])  entrenchments.  .\s  one  follows  the  line  of 
defence,  and  realizes  that  only  a  wall  four  feet  high, 
a  few  cannon,  and  a  handful  of  l)ra\e  men,  kept  back 
an  army  ot  nearl}'  ten  thousand  men,  it  seems  abso- 
lutely incredible  that  they  were  able  to  hold  it  for  three 
weeks.  It  makes  one  thrill  with  pride  in  one's  luighsh 
cousins,  and  boil  with  rage  at  the  ])erfi(ly  of  the  .\ana 
Sahib. 

The  church  is  full  of  memorials.  W  ithin  the  choir 
the  walls  are  co\ered  with  slabs  on  which  are  the 
names  of  a  thousand  men,  women  and  children  wdio 
])erished  here.     We  turned  away  sick  at  heart. 

I  >honld  ha\e  liked  to  dri\e  down  to  the  ri\er,  but 
\\e  had  a  good  deal  ol  (lit"tictdt\-  in  making  om"  car- 
riage drixers  understand  what  we  wanted,  ^^o  we  de- 
cidetl  wc  had  better  go  back  to  the  station  after  ttur 
baggage,  and  get  it  and  ourseKes  oxer  Id  the  stalitm 
on   the  other  side  oi   the  citw   from    which   we   were   to 


106 


ROUXD  Tni<:  W'ORIJ)   IX  SIIJ'.XCK 


leave  that  nii^iit  before  tlie  short  (la_\'  closed  and  dark- 
ness fell.  Outside  of  these  stations,  the  one  by  which 
we  entered  Cawnpore  and  the  one  b}-  which  we  left,  a 
crowd  of  jMlgrims  sat  on  the  t^round.  i)atiently  waiting,- 
for  a  chance  to  ,g()  on  to  Allahabad  to  the  i^reat  Mela. 
( )ur  train  did  not  lea\'e  until  after  nine  o'clock  at  nii^iit, 
but  we  were  allowed  to  l;'o  into  our  car  an  hour  earlier. 
It  was  a  larL;e  car.  with  eii^'lit  berths  for  the  seven  of 
us.  1  was  so  cold  and  uncomfortable  on  mv  hard,  nar- 
row shelf  that  1  could  not  slee]).  E\ery  time  the  train 
caiue  to  a  stoj)  I  could  see.  throui^h  the  small  o])en 
window  in  the  door,  the  rush  of  ])ilt2,-rims  seekini.;'  to  ii,"et 
on  the  train.  'J'he  Mela  at  Allahabad  is  estimated  to 
ha\e  broui^ht  out  from  si.x  hundred  to  eis^iu  hundred 
thousand  i)eople.  it  was  dark,  of  course,  and  there 
were  no  li_g'hts  in  our  car.  but  the  station  lam])s  enabled 
me  to  see  everythiui^'  outside.  I'inalK'  the  train  made 
another  \nn<^  sto]).  and  fresh  crowds  flocked  ])ast  our 
door.  The  ])oor  creatures.  —  in  their  tiutterim;-  rami's. 
and  bare  feet  and  limbs  in  the  chill  nii^ht  air  I  Thcx- 
i^'o  hand  in  hand,  so  as  not  to  i^'et  se])arated  in  the 
crush.  Many  heads  were  thrust  in  at  our  window,  and 
at  first  J  thoui^'ht  nothinj^'  of  it.  knowing-  the\-  were 
looking  for  a  third-class  car.  lUit  presenth-  a  ])air  of 
bare  limbs  came  through  the  window,  and  their  owner 
followed.  S(.)me  one  outside  ])ulled  him  out  again. 
Soon  there  came  another  rush  outside,  and  another 
man  waxed  bold  and.  ])iUting  his  stall  and  bundle  in 
through  the  window,  began  to  follow.  I  was  the  on]\- 
one  awake  in  the  car,  and  1  called  out  "  (',o  awa\  I 
(jo  awa\' I  "  As  he  ])aid  no  notice,  and  no  one  else 
seemed  to  hear.  I  reached  out  and  shook  tlie  nearest 
slee])er,    who    added    to    the    contusion    b\     thinking    it 


R(K'Xl)  rWK   WORLD   IX   STLF.XCK  107 

was  the  man  himself  who  had  shaken  her.  lie  was 
now  heiny"  assisted  out  of  the  window  by  the  guard. 
After  this  we  closed  the  window. 

In  the  nK)rnin<;-  1  found  on  the  floor  a  pair  of  brace- 
lets \vhich  our  midnight  \isitor  had  evidently  dropped 
in  his  flight.  It  was  such  a  pathetic  little  souvenir,  — 
the  beads  were  made  of  mud  from  the  bank  ot  the 
sacred  ri\er.  and  strunL^'  on  straws.  Later,  when  1 
opened  my  carryall,  1  discovered  that  some  of  my 
warm  wraj^s  had  disap])eared.  l^vidently  the  woman 
at  the  Cawn])ore  waiting'  room  had  been  investii^atint^'. 

Muttra  is  such  an  ui^K-  ])lace.  —  no  grass,  no  flow- 
ers, anywhere;  nothing  but  sun-baked  yellow  earth, 
and  yellow  stucco  houses  where  shrines  with  red- 
daubed  idols  made  a  startling  note  of  color.  The  ri\er 
bank  is  lined  with  temples  which  look  most  pictur- 
es(pie,  but  '"  distance  lends  enchantment  to  the  view  " 
here.  The  citv  abounds  in  monkevs  !  ^'ou  see  them 
running  u])  and  down  the  walls  of  the  houses  every- 
where, or  sitting  along  the  edge  of  the  roof,  their 
babies  clasped  in  their  arms  I 

We  went  down  to  the  river  one  evening  to  see  the 
serxices  in  the  h'ire  \\()rshi])])ers'  Tem])le.  The  sun 
had  set  just  as  we  reached  the  ri\er,  and  the  sk\-  and 
water  were  a  beautiful  rose  color.  A  large  tiat- 
bottomed  boat  was  waiting,  and  rugs  had  been  s])rea(l 
out  to  sit  upon.  As  we  tloated  down  the  jumna.  the 
twilight  lent  a  mysterious  charm  to  the  tem])les,  with 
their  (|uaint  domes,  and  gables  which  hung  out  o\er 
the  ri\er. 

W  hen  we  reached  the  h'ire  \\'orshi])])ers'  'j\Mnple, 
the  boat  was  anchored  where  we  cotdd  watch  the  rites. 
'Ilii--  temple  i>  in  the  lorm  of  a  hollow    scpiare.      In  the 


108 


ROL'XD  Til!':  WORLD   IX   SILl^XCE 


centre  is  an  altar  with  an  arched  canopy,  and  from  the 
altar  a  tlight  of  steps  descends  to  the  water.  Temi)le 
and  steps  were  full  of  ])eo])le  mo\-ini4'  around,  tlie  four 
sacred  Ijulls  mingling'  with  them;  and  exerywhere,  nn 
stejjs,  walls  and  lea]Mng"  troni  roof  to  roof,  were  swarms 
of  monkeys,  some  of  them  imitating  the  actions  of  the 
worshippers,  kneeling"  at  the  ri\er's  brink  to  laj)  uj)  the 
water  to  drink,  and  touching  it  to  their  foreheads  o\er 
and  o\er  again.  Many  of  the  women  liad  l)rouglii 
little  rafts  of  straws,  which  held  four  or  h\e  tiny 
earthen  \-essels  filled  \vith  oil,  with  a  minute  wick  in 
each  vessel,  'idiese  were  lighted,  and  the  little  rafts 
were  carefullv  ])ushed  out  into  the  stream,  some  to 
carrv  messages  to  the  s])irits  of  the  dead,  some  as  an 
(jtlering  to  the  goddess  of  the  rixer.  The  gentlemen 
with  us  ])icked  up  several  (if  them,  and  one  was  gi\en 
to  me.  As  twilight  dee])ened  into  darkness,  the  exer- 
cises began.  Two  men  held  up  before  the  altar  a  red 
cloth,  through  \\hich  we  could  see  (ittle  twinkling- 
lights  dashing  out:  then  the  cloth  was  taken  away, 
and  disclosed  a  priest  standing  u])on  the  altar,  holding 
up  a  candelabrum  with  a  ])yrami(l  of  lights,  lie  held 
it  high  aloft,  swinging  it  back  and  forth.  The  i)eo])le 
in  the  boats  around  us  were  looking  u]).  with  hands 
clasped  in  adoration:  and  those  in  the  temjile  were 
throwing  a  rain  of  tlowcrs  at  the  lights,  and  rushing 
to  gather  them  u])  as  the\-  fell,  for  touching  the  sacred 
fire  made  tliem  also  sacred.  After  a  while  the  jiriest 
ste])])e(l  down  and  ])lace(l  the  candelalirmn  on  the  altar, 
instanth'  all  the  worshii)])ers  rushed  forward.  >tretch- 
ing  hands  and  arm>  into  the  tlame.  saluting  the  light-> 
ii\er  and   o\cr  again,   in   a  jiertect    Irenz}'.   in   ihc   etiorl 


ROL'XI)  Till'.  WORLD    IX  SlLl'.XCl'. 


109 


to    ahsorl)    holiness    from    tlicin  ;    while    o\er    liead    ihe 
pure  lii;iil  of  the  moon  shone  eohlly  clown. 

.\nother  (la\-  we  took  a  trij)  to  r)rin(lal)an.  a  ])hice  six 
miles  awa_\-.  where  there  are  some  famous  Jlindu 
temples.  The  ten  of  us  started  at  dawn.  There  was 
nothing;'  in  an\-  wa\-  attraetivc  about  the  dri\-e,  and  I 
was  yetting'  tired,  \vhen  we  eame  to  a  forlorn  \illai;e 
oi  dirty  houses.  The  temples  \vere  also  disa])pointini;'. 
The  first  one  \isited  was  modern,  with  a  \ery  i)rett_\' 
ijarden  and  white  marble  pavilions,  but  we  were  not 
alUnxed  to  ^o  further  than  the  j^arden.  The  next  one 
has  a  ^'olden  ])alm  tree  in  a  shrine  within  a  eourt.  It 
was  \-isil)le  throui.ih  the  o])en  door;  Init  as  we  were 
starting'  to  ascend  the  ste])s  the  nati\es  louni^in^- 
around  became  ^ahanized  into  lite,  and,  barring'  our 
way,  held  uj)  a  larj^e  ])lacard  on  which  we  read  that 
there  was  "no  admission  to  \isitors  of  another  faith, 
and  they  were  be^j^ed  not  to  insist  on  enterint^'.  as  that 
would  entail  the  necessitx'  of  i)ro\idinLi-  new  furniture 
for  the  kitchen  I  "'  What  a  serious  affair  that  would 
be  I  We  hesitated;  and  the  scowls  around  us  became 
hercer.  so  we  decided  to  retreat.  The  third  temi)le  had 
a  most  tascinatiuL^'h'  car\ed  roof,  with  wooden  stalac- 
tites. reseiubliuL;'  the  roof  of  a  ca\e.  The  attendant 
allow  t'(l  us  to  take  a  pc'cp  into  the  inner  room,  which 
read}-  looked  like  a  kitchen.  (  )n  ,L;e 1 1 i n I.;-  into  the  cai"- 
riai;'es  a^ain,  we  were'  taken  to  tlie  .L^ate  of  a  small  com- 
pound, so  neat  as  to  be  in  greatest  contrast  to  the 
^urroundiuL;"  dirt  and  disoi-der.  This  was  the  Mission; 
and  there  we  were  in\ited  to  partake  of  a  (laint\- 
breakla--t.  The  neat  com|)()und  and  cool  daint\-  order 
ol  the  hou--e  L^reatly  impre>sed  ww  with   wliat  could  be 


11(1  ROUXD  THK  WORLD   IX  SILKXCE 

(lone   by   even   one   missionary,  when   lier   home   made 
sueh  an  attractive  spot  in  a  forlorn  drearv  village. 

(3ur  last  afternoon  at  Aluttra  was  made  most  de- 
lij^htful  by  an  invitation  to  a  t^arden  party  at  the  home 
of  some  charming-  people  we  had  met  in  Bareill}-.  As 
onr  carriage  turned  in  at  their  gate  it  seemed  as 
though  Ave  had  entered  Fairyland  for  it  did  not  seem 
l)Ossible  there  could  be  any  spot  so  cool,  green,  and 
beautiful  in  Aluttra's  yellow  desolation,  lluge  trees 
shaded  the  Avide.  green  lawns,  hedges  bordered  the 
drive,  and  there  were  roses  everywhere.  At  the  hos- 
pitabl}'  oi)en  doors  of  the  big  bungalow,  one  of  the 
daughters.  —  there  were  twelve  of  them,  and  one  son. 
—  a])peare(l.  to  lead  the  way  to  another  beautiful 
green  lawn,  where  the  ])retty  dresses  of  the  ladies  and 
children  around  the  tea-table  made  a  mo\ing  mass  of 
color.  Cro(|uet  and  all  kinds  of  games  were  gc)ing  on 
merrilv  all  around.  I'nfortunately  we  had  to  lea\e 
N'cry  early,  as  we  were  going  on  to  Agra.  Sunset 
gior}-  filled  the  sky  as  our  train  mo\-C(l  out.  The  moon 
rose,  and  pee])ed  in  through  the  windows  at  us:  hour 
after  hour  passed  and  we  were  a])])arentl}-  as  far  from 
Agra  as  e\er.  It  was  after  midnight  when  we  coxered 
the  last  of  the  thirt_\-three  miles  between  Muttra  and 
A-ra. 


ROL'XI)  'I~I1I':  WORIJ)    I.X   SlLl-.XCl': 


111 


XI 


S.  S.   lUuii^ala. 

ON.  to  waken  and  realize  that  1  was  actually  in 
At^ra.  the  city  of  many  a  dream.  It  was  not 
\et  daylit;ht  when  we  started  on  our  six  mile 
(lri\e  to  Akbar's  toml).  The  air  ^vas  bitterly  cold,  and 
we  were  bundled  in  all  our  extra  vvra])s  and  huddled 
together  in  the  s^harr}-,  eatinj;'  crackers  as  we  dro\e 
alon^'.  Now  you  would  laus^h  to  sec  the  twine  bat;'  I 
carry,  in  which  1  ha\e  my  kodak,  t;uide  bot)k.  and  a 
tin  box  of  crackers.  'Jdiere  is  no  st_\le  about  Jndian 
travel. 

The  road  was  the  (Mie  on  which  Akbar  himself  used 
to  dri\e,  and  is  shaded  1)\-  i^rand  old  trees.  The  tomb 
is  in  the  midst  of  a  i^'arden  enclosiu'c,  two  miles  s([uare  : 
—  it  seems  that  what  they  call  a  "  t^arden  ""  in  India 
means  only  i^rass  and  trees,  not  a  place  for  flowers  as 
w  ith  us.  As  a  i^ateway.  the  "  garden  ""  has  a  hand- 
some building'  of  red  sandstone  inlaid  with  white  mar- 
ble, with  a  white  marble  minaret  at  each  corner. 
W  ithin  the  c^atewa}-,  a  broad  ])a\-e(l  walk  leads  up  to 
the  maus(»leum,  which  is  built  of  red  sandstone  with 
an  entire  to])  story  of  white  marl)le,  the  effect  beini4' 
somewhat  odd.  There  are  four  stories  in  all.  the  lower 
floor  ha\in^'  arches  north  and  south,  as  entrances  to 
the  tond)  chand)er.  The  \estibule  has  been  ])artiall\- 
restorecl,  and  its  dark  blue  and  ,!:;'old  is  exceedin^iv  rich 
in  ap])earance.  h'rom  this,  an  incline  leads  down  to  the 
dark  chand)er  where  the  L!reat  .\kl)ar  rests.     (  )n  either 


ROUNT)  THE  WORLD    I X  SILE.XCl-: 


side  of  the  \-estil)ule.  small  rooms  are  screened  off.  and 
contain  toml)s  of  Akbar's  famil}'.  his  chihh'cn.  i^rand- 
cliil(h"en.  and  a  sister.  These  white  marble  tombs  are 
covered  with  most  beautiful  car\in!.^'.  Steep  narrow 
stairways,  against  the  \valls  outside,  lead  to  the  wh.ite 
marble  giorv  u])  above.  A  cloister  with  lattice  work 
of  fort\--four  arches,  no  two  alike,  surrounds  this  floor. 
They  told  me  that  the  gentle  wind  sighs  an  excjuisite 
refrain  through  those  marble  arches.  In  the  centre, 
just  al)o\-e  where  .Vkbar  sleeps  in  his  ^•au]te(l  tomb, 
is  a  marl)le  cenota])h.  completcK-  c(>\-ered  with  most 
beautiful  carxdng.  J  remend)er  noting  at  one  end  a 
wonderful  s])ra}'  of  iris  with  lea\es  and  llower.  cher- 
ries with  leaves  and  stem,  and  a  brancli  from  a  rose 
bush.  At  the  f()ot  of  the  cenota]))!  is  a  ])illar.  about 
four  feet  high,  wdiich  was  once  co\ered  with  gold  on 
the  top.  in  the  middle  of  which  the  Koh-i-noor 
sparkled.  Akbar  had  three  wi\es.  —  Mohanunedan. 
Hindu,  and  Christian.  A  building  close  to  the  tomb 
was  pointed  out  as  the  burial  ])lace  of  his  Christian 
wife. 

As  we  sat  around  the  l)reakfast  table  on  our  return. 
\vith  all  the  doors  o])en.  —  for  there  were  no  win- 
dows. —  little  birds  flew  in  and  ont.  ])erche(l  on  tlie 
cornice,  and  had  to  be  chased  away  from  the  scrxdng 
table.  Ueautiful  emerald-green  i)arrots  made  streaks 
ol  \i\i(l  col(ir  as  tluw  Hashed  around,  out  in  the  gar- 
den. (  )n  the  \erandah.  the  nati\e  merchants  had 
taken  ])ossession.  and  the  llo<u'  was  co\'ered  from  end 
to  end  with  ])eautiful  things.  —  rugs,  embroideries, 
brass  work.  siK'er.  jewelr\'.  ])ostal  cards.  ])hotogra])lis. 
inlaid  marble.  soai)Stone  carxdng.  han(l-])ainted  i\-ories. 
The  merchants  were  connni''  and  ijoiu"'  all  the  time,  so 


ROL'XI)  TIII<:   WORLD    l\   SIIJCXCIC 


113 


\vc  had  a  continual  \ariet}-.  It  was  threat  fun  to  l)ar- 
i^ain  with  the  men.  We  had  a  standing  joke  on  some 
of  the  ])art\-  A\ho  boni^ht  no  less  than  six  models  of 
the  Taj.  besides  several  pieces  of  carved  soapstone. 
and  a  most  wonderful  black  marble  chess-board.  The_\- 
left  -Vi^ra  so  loaded  down  with  wooden  boxes  that  we 
call  the  collection  their  "  marble  vard  ". 


Zi:.\".\X.\  IX  TIIK   FORT  AT  AGRA 


The  h'ort  is  in  the  heart  of  the  cit\'.  on  the  bank  of 
the  ri\er  jumna.  Its  red  sandstone  walls  ])rotect  the 
Palace  and  the  I 'earl  Mos(|ue,  and  are  of  themsehes 
a  s]dendid  slight,  they  are  so  majestic,  and  so  fulfill 
one's  i<lea  of  a  fort.  The  I 'earl  Aloscpie  was  built  b}' 
Shah  jehau.  grandson  (if  Akbar.  It  is  all  red  sand- 
stone without,  and  white  marble  within,  and.  as  one 
conies   in    Irom   the   glare  (if  the   red    walls   to   the   C(  lol 


114 


RoLxi)  'nil-:  WORLD  i.\  siij'.xci': 


t^rc}-  and  A\liite.  the  cdiilrasl  i^i\-cs  one  an  nnnsual 
iin])ressi()n  of  serenit\'  and  ])cace.  A  cloister  rnns 
aronnd  tln'ee  sides,  and  tlie  Alos(|ne  has  three  aisles 
surmounted  by  three  domes.     An  inscription  of  black 


A    ZICX.WA    WOMAN 

marl)le  says  that  the  M()S(|ue  may  be  likened  to  a 
precious  i)earl,  as  no  other  nioS(|ue  is  lined  throui^iiout 
with  such  marble  as  this. 

The  I'alace  is  another  dream  of  white  marble  lo\eli- 
ness  :  ])ut  it  i;"i\-es  onl\'  a  faint  idea  of  what  it  must 
ha\e    been.      The    precious    stones    lia\e    all    been    re- 


Rorxi)  'nil".  woRij)  i.\  siijcxc 


•lllr;   J  I'.SSAM  I  XI-:    TOWI-.K 

])lac'i'(l    witli    ,!4la>.s.    except    one    ciiKTald.      Tlu'    ])ri\aU' 
inos(|Uf  <)\  tlie  ladies  of  the  court,  the  "  C.cni   .\los<iue  ". 


\\()  ROIWI)   'I'lll'.    W'OKi.l)    1\    SIIJ'.XCI'. 

thcv  call  it,  is  near  the  room  wliere  Shah  jehan  was 
kept  a  ])ris()ner,  fed  on  coarse  Lorain,  for  se\-en  years. 
J-)elow  is  a  small  conrt^ard,  where  merchants  came 
to  show  their  goods  to  the  ladies.  Jn  the  "  Fish 
Square  "  there  was  a  large  tank  where  the  em])erors 
could  amuse  themsel\"es  fishing.  In  the  two-storied 
cloister  that  surrounds  this,  an  ojjcu  terrace  fronts 
the  Jumna.  On  this  terrace  is  a  black  marble  throne 
with  a  long  fissure  in  it.  which  cracked,  they  told  us. 
wdien  a  usurper  sat  on  the  throne.  (  )n  the  other  side 
of  the  cloister  the  pavement  re]iresents  a  Parchesi 
board,  wdicre  the  Emperor  used  living  men  with  which 
to  play.  I)elow  is  an  enclosure  within  the  walls,  where 
contests  between  elephants  and  tigers  used  to  take 
place,  ddie  llall  of  Private  Audience  is  a  glory  of 
marble  car\-ing  and  precious  stones  ;  a  stairwav  leads 
from  this  to  the  beautiful  Jessamine  Tower,  where  the 
Emperor  lived,  in  exquisite  rooms  o\er  the  river. 

His  pri\-ate  moscpie  is  said  to  be  the  smallest  in  ex- 
istence. Xear  by  is  the  "Mirror  Palace  "",  two  dark 
rooms.  A\-ith  walls  and  ceiling  inlaid  with  mirrors. 
The}'  were  lighted  u])  for  us.  with  most  beautiftd 
effect.  There  are  troughs  in  tlieir  marble  floors, 
through  which  rose  water  ran. 

On  one  side  of  the  {ira])e  (lardens  are  the  (lolden 
Pa\-ilions.  so  called  from  the  roof  being  coxered  with 
glittering  ])latcs  of  copi)er.  These  tin\-  round  rooms 
were  used  by  Shah  jehan's  daughter,  and  there  are 
holes  in  the  walls,  in  which  she  ke])t  her  jewels  ;  these 
openings  are  so  small  that  onl\-  a  woman's  arm  can 
reach  the  contents.  In  another  corner  of  the  (/rai)e 
(/ardens  are  three  rooms,  which  were  the  ])ri\-ate  apart- 
ments of  Shah    lelian  :  and  there,  in  the  most  beautiful 


ROL'XI)  r\\]'.  WORLD    IX   SIIJ^XC1^  117 


<)l  all.  In-  (lii-d.  l()<)l<in,^-  out  across  the  fields  and  llic 
n'\cr  lo  till'  Taj  w  liiidi  ri^i'-^  iiiajc'slicalK-  riuuid  a  curxc 
in  tjif  ri\cT. 


118  ROUND  THE  WORLD  TX  STLKXCK 


'I'here  are  more  t^rand  halls,  and   another  ])alaee  all 
hnilt    of   red    sandstone,    within    the    fori,    with    \aulted 


R(U-XD  TIIK  \V(^RL1)  TX  SILKXCK  119 

rooms  underneath  to  be  used  as  a  retreat  front  the 
summer  heat.  ( )utside.  elose  to  the  Delhi  t^ate,  is  the 
g'reat  Ah)S(|ue  l)uilt  1)}'  Shah  Jehan  :  but  all  these  won- 
ders ])ale  to  insignificance  l)efore  the  'J'aj,  where  Shah 
Jelian  buried  his  most  loved  wife.  It  is  certainly 
worth  the  iourne\-  to  India,  simpl}'  to  see  this  glori- 
ously beautiful  building'.  J  haxQ  left  it  to  the  last,  for 
it  is  so  far  l)e}-ond  all  the  other  beautiful  things  in 
As^ra.  ( )ne  dri\es  throus^h  ])ark-like  i^rounds  to  the 
_^ran(l  gateway  leading-  to  the  gardens  in  which  the 
Taj  stands. 

'Jdiis  gateway  is  a  fine  l)uilding  of  red  sandstone, 
inlaid  with  extracts  from  the  Koran,  and  with  orna- 
ments of  white  marl)le ;  the  whole  surmotmted  l)y 
white  marl)le  cu]K)las.  I'ut  who  can  stop  to  examine 
the  gatewax'.  when  the  wonder  of  wonders  itself  is 
l)efore  us?  Arched  in  the  red  sandstone  doorway,  it 
rises  like  a  ])icttn'e  in  a  frame,  a  piece  of  jewelled 
marble,  carxed.  burnished,  fit  onlv  to  be  shrined  in  a 
jewel  casket.  It  is  so  glaring  white  in  the  sunshine 
that  it  seems  somewhat  garish;  but  later,  when  the 
sun  has  set  and  the  light  fades,  it  becomes  ethereal- 
ized.  —  a  dream,  a  \ision  of  car\-ed  cream-colored 
i\or}-. 

There  is  an  a])])roach  of  water  in  a  marble  water 
course,  where  tlie  building  is  reflected;  stone  walks, 
and  a  ])attern  <»l  stone  blocks  on  the  grass,  form  i)arl 
of  the  a])i)roach.  I  lalf  way  down  there  is  a  ])latform, 
with  seats  and  a  s(piare  marble  tank,  where  water 
again  mirmrs  the  lo\-el\'  building,  which  stands  on  a 
high  marble  ])latform.  ( )ne  enters  the  doors,  around 
which  are  panels  of  wonderful  white  marble  car\ing, 
■ —  ln-re  an  iris  with  leaxcs  and  Ibiw  ers  as  lar^e  as  lile. 


120 


ROl'XD  TH]-:  WORLI)   IX  Sn.EXCK 


l)erfect  in  e\crv  detail,  there  a  sprav  of  roses,  and  in 
front  is  the  screen  wliich  surrounds  the  tombs.  —  for 
Shah  jehan  too  is  buried  here.  This  screen  is  neither 
more  or  less  than  a  ]jiece  of  jewelled  "  lace-work  "". — 
a  marble  lattice,  as  thick  as  mv  tinker,  set  with  real 
])recious  stones.  The  tond)s  are  in  a  \-ault  below.  le\el 
with  the  surface  of  the  i^round.  The  tond)s  are 
cox'ered  with  flowers  and  lea\es  in  jewelled  inla\-.  J 
coimted  thirtv-twt)  garnets  in  one  po])])v.  ()verhead 
rises  the  ex(|uisite  dome,  and  around  are  a  series  of 
other  rooius. 

Outside,  there  is  a  su])erb  \ie\v  across  the  river,  to 
the  Fort  and  its  ])alaces.  We  wandered  around  for 
hours,  watchin*^-  the  sun  set  and  the  moon  rise.  The 
beautifitl  building'  became  e\'en  more  tairy-like  in  the 
moonlii^'ht.  It  seemed  to  i^row  larj^'er  and  larger,  and 
to  draw  nearer  and  nearer,  with  its  glorious  central 
dome  risini4".  li.^iit  as  a  bid)ble.  ( )ne  felt  it  must  break 
loose  from  its  fastenint^s  and  float  away.  W  hen,  at 
last,  we  turned  awa\-.  J  looked  backward  e\er\-  few 
ste])S.  and  each  time  it  seemed  to  ha\e  j^rown  more 
ethereal.  1  shall  ne\er  forget  my  last  look  l)ackward  ; 
the  dome  was  surely  doatins^'  toward  me  in  the  moon- 
lij^ht.  and  J  had  but  to  reach  out  and  take  it.  to  bear 
away  and  be  my  own. 

J  ha\-e  a  l()nL^'  list  of  the  mmiber  of  precious  stones 
<4i\-en  by  Kin*4S  and  Xawabs  for  use  in  the  Taj  when 
it  was  beinj4'  built.  Amonj^'  them  are  six  hundred  and 
se\enty  tiu'cpioises.  se\"ent\'-tour  sai)])hires.  lorty-two 
eiueralds.  six  hundred  and  twenty-h\e  diamonds,  and 
one  hundred   thousand  ])ieces  of  mother-of-i)earl. 

We  had  the  most  micomlortable  nii^ht  ol  our  whole 
sta\-  in  India  on  the  \\a\-  fntm  Aura  to  Allahabad,     'i'o 


ROUXl)  Till".  WORLD    IX   SILI^XCI^ 


121 


hej^in  with,  we  had  t(t  lca\e  As^ra  a  little  before  mid- 
iii<^ht,  and  t(^  change  ears  half  an  hour  later.  All  went 
merrily  enonLjli  until  we  left  the  train  to  ehanj^e  ears. 
We  were  in  a  hnj^e  station,  with  a  few  lamps  making- 
dim  s])ots  of  li,iiht  in  the  darkness,  a  lon^-  platform  to 
tra\erse.  and  a  bridge  to  be  crossed:  and  as  there  were 
hardl\-  enouL^h  of  the  nati\e  ])orters  around  to  carry 
half  our  mountain  of  hand  ba_ij,i^a!^e.  we  all  i)icked  uj) 
as  much  as  we  could  carry,  and  started  for  the  train. 
There  had  been  no  com]jartments  eni;ag"ed  for  us.  and 
the  two  s^entlemen  of  our  partv  and  the  luirasian  ^uard 
hustled  up  and  down  in  \ain  search.  It  seemed  for  a 
while,  as  if  we  would  l)e  unable  to  ^o  on  that  train. 
.\t  last  a  lar^e  second-class  com])artment  was  found, 
and  we  were  so  L^iad  not  to  ha\e  to  stav  behind  or  ha\'e 
strans^ers  with  us.  that  we  were  (juite  cheerful  at  the 
])ros])ect  ot  sitting'  u])  all  nij^iit.  (  )ur  suit-cases  were 
set  out  in  a  row.  and  on  to])  of  these  the  carr\alls 
were  laid,  makini;'  (piite  a  comfortable-looking'  couch 
on  which  we  took  turns  to  rest.  (  )ur  wooden  boxes 
ol  Ai;ra  marble  and  tin  cans  of  ])laster  figures  were 
])iled  u])  in  one  corner,  more  carr\alls  were  utilized 
as  pillows,  and  soon  all  were  asleep.  In  the  morning' 
we  had  some  ])o(jr  tea  at  a  station,  jjatronized  our 
cracker  bii.xes,  and  ""  existed  ""  until  we  reached  .\lla- 
habad  at  ele\en  o'clock.  Mr.  Lanc\-  was  waitinj^'  there 
to  take  us  to  his  home,  wliere  a  L;ood  breakfast  was 
ready  lor  us.  This  o\er.  we  dro\e  out  to  the  h'ort. 
The  rixers  Jumna  and  (lan^es  meet  just  outside  its 
wall>.  l/dikiuL;'  down  from  the  ram])arts.  the  difter- 
t'uce  in  the  color  ol  the  water  is  stron^T'  marked.  The 
(ianL;e>  w  a>  muddy,  and  the  Jumna  tdear  blue,  a^  tluw 
tlowdl  ali)n,i;\  (piiti-  di.-.tinct    fruni    each   iiiIrm". 


122 


ROUXl^  TIIK  WORLD  TX  STLFA'CK 


Tlie  ]\lela,  or  religious  Fair  of  the  I  Hndiis,  is  lield  on 
the  narrow  strip  of  hmd  l)et\vcen  the  walls  of  the  lM)rt 
and  the  river.  There  were  between  eii^iit  and  nine 
hnndred  thonsand  ])ilqrinis  there  the  week  before  we 
eanie,   and   some   of  our   friends   had    lione   over    from 


Ik^ 

1^ 

^  i}M 

BBiA>. 

i          ■'dBE 

fv 

u*^:':.,  '-I^^^ 

i 

1, 

in 

.tfii 

f'JI 

^:^\m 

lhg;-^j~^-g?*^ 

ffvjHi^vi 

)^M'- 

*9ivl 

ii 

^  V  n^^Hiiiiii^H 

/  ^'^ 

^L         '     ' 

'  ^^^'^blI'^  ' 

.*  * 

^m.             7;  •'■1*- 

mm   ^ 

^  JHH^hmb^    — ..     "^  *"■ 

bI  i.M 

*i  '%i 

.18?=^,  - ' 

k      :.. 

1!K1.\I)AI!.\.\    M  i;i,A,  l'.:(>.s 

art     of    ]]i(>ccssinn     with    i(hil     car    in     ci-ntri-.       I'litsts    on     left     marked 
forclieacls     witli     N'islmu's     mark.       lma,m>     of     Krishn.a     .ami     liis     mi^tri 
Kadlia    aix-    inside    tlic    car.    which    is    bciny    drawn    alon^    witli    rope    fi( 
the    'I'emidc    to    the   (".aiden. 


Liieknow  to  see  the  ])roeee(hn,^s.  I  he  ])ilj^rims  eome 
lonj4'  distanees,  and  eani])  on  the  banks  to  batlie  in  the 
saered  river,  —  thinkini;-  thus  to  wash  their  sins  aw  aw 
We  walked  around  anioni;'  them.  There  was  a  num- 
ber of  fakirs,  or  so-called   hoK-   men,   who  sal   on   liltle 


ROL'XD  TITK  WORIJ)   IN'   SILT^XCIC 


1_'3 


wooden  platforms  full  of  shar])  spikes,  with  tires  blaz- 
in_Q'  around  them.  thout;h  the  heat  of  the  sun  was  so 
intense  that  ]  eould  hardl\-  endure  it.  Thev  were  dirtv 
and  unkempt,  with  matted  hair  hanj^ins^"  over  their 
shoidders;  and  they  looked  at  us  with  didl.  luiseeiuii" 
e\es. 

'jdiere  was  an  underground  temple  there,  where  a 
thatehed  roof  eo\ered  a  stairway  t^'oins;'  down  to  where 
a  hideous  red-painted  idol,  with  s^iass  eyes,  lay  on  the 
i^round.  coxered  with  masses  of  fragrant  white  flowers. 
The  stairway  was  eovered  with  worshippers.  —  poor 
thinL^s  ! 

'Die  British  have  held  this  fort  since  1T9S.  and  have 
adapted  it  to  modern  needs:  and  as  the  I'alace  in  the 
fort  is  used  as  an  arsenal  now,  there  was  nothing'  of 
s])ecial  interest  there. 

After  tiftin.  1  had  a  dri\e  around  the  city,  and  was 
delighted  with  it.  It  is  more  iMigiish  than  any  ])lace 
1  ha\e  seen  in  India  except  r)ond)ay.  There  are  fine 
shady  dri\es.  ])rett}-  himgalows  with  gardens,  good 
hjiglish  stores,  and  interesting  native  bazaars. 

We  resumed  oiu"  march  once  more  that  night,  taking 
the  ten  o'clock  train  for  ISenares.  We  had  not  much 
chance  for  slee]).  as  we  had  to  change  cars  at  three, 
reaching  lienares  in  the  first  glimpse  of  daylight;  but. 
remarkable  to  relate,  we  were  realK'  (|uite  fresh  when, 
after  our  earl\-  breakfast  at  the  station,  we  started  out 
to  see  the  wonders  of  this  famous  city.  —  which  is  the 
hol\-  cit\-  of  India  and  one  of  the  most  ancient.  The 
boat  ride  on  the  (langes  is  the  greatest  attraction  ot  the 
place  for  a  loreigner.  Seated  in  comlortable  basket 
chairs  on  the  up])er  deck  of  a  large  llat-botlomed  boat, 
we    Moated    up   and    down,    watching    the    ])eo])le.       The 


124 


ROUXl)  Tfll<:  WORLD   TX  STI.FAXE 


river  l)ank  is  covered  with  tenii)les,  with  steps  down  to 
the  water,  or  little  ]:)latfornis  built  out  over  it.  JJank, 
platl'orms.  steps,  and  water  were  packed  with  ])eo]^le, 
hathiiii^'  or  washing'  their  i^armcnts,  and  prayini;'  to  the 
ri\-er  and  the  sim.  Some  of  them  were  ha\-in<;'  the 
caste    marks    on    their    foreheads    renewed.      We    were 


JU'KXIXO   C.IIA'I', 


lil'.XAI-II'.S 


told  that  no  less  than  a  million  pilgrims  annnalK-   \-isit 
1  ienares. 

At  the  Asi  (diat  a  wooden  ])_vre  was  burning,  and  the 
attendants  were  ])ilin!4"  wood  oN'cr  a  cor])se  that  had 
just  been  i)laced  on  another  ])}'re.  A  third  IxxK'  was 
l)rout;iit  u])  on  a  char])oy  and  lifted  from  that  to  its 
l)}re,  face  down.  it  was  then  looscK-  coxered  with  a 
white    cloth,    wood    was    ])iled    u])on    it,    and    the    ])vre 


K()l"\l)  'IMII':   WORLD    l.\   SI  l.l'.WI''. 


lit;litcil  ;  while  beside  it  a  youni;'  lad  stimd  and  we])!. — 
a  most  ])atlietie  simht  I 

Tlie  leiii])les  and  Liiiats.  or  landing-  ])laees,  aloni;-  the 
ri\er  are  of  most  xaried  and  pieturescjne  arehiteetnre. 
After  a  eouple  ot  hours  on  the  boat  during'  \\hieli  we 
were  .^iad  of  the  white  umbrellas  and  pith  hats  be- 
tween us  and  the  scorehins^'  sun.  we  went  baek  to  the 
earria^es  and  dro\e  to  the  (lolden  'rem])le,  which  is  in 
the  midst  of  a  maze  of  streets  so  narrow  that  it  was 
necessary  for  us  to  leax'e  the  carriage  and  proceed  on 
foot.  I  shall  ne\-er  fori;et  that  walk.  We  picked  otir 
wa_\'  oxer  stones  slip])er\-  with  wet  flowers,  throui^ii  a 
crowd  of  curious.  ha]f-anii'r\-  faces.  All  ar(Tund  were 
hideous  idols  decked  with  flowers:  and  the  dirt,  scpialor 
and  smells  all  combined  to  make  one  heartsick  and 
anxious  to  ^et  awaw  We  liad  to  jjass  throu,^'h  a  sho]) 
where  the\-  sold  flowers,  and  climb  some  break-neck 
stairs  to  an  u])i)er  balconx'  on  a  le\el  with  the  roof  of 
the  temi)le.  whence  we  could  look  down  on  the  inte- 
rior: then,  descendin!^'.  we  threaded  our  wa\"  throuiih 
the  narrow  alle\s  ai^ain.  and  1  drew  a  lonj^'  l)reath  of 
relief  to  be  sate  back  in  the  carriage  once  more. 

The  l)ur_i;a.  or  .\lonke\-  'rem])le.  is  at  some  distance. 
On  entering'  a  i;"atewa\'  in  a  hii^h  wall,  one  finds  one's 
self  in  a  courtxard  where  there  is  a  small  temi)le.  witli 
curiously  car\ed  i)illars.  The  i)lace  swarms  with  mon- 
keys. The  attendants  called  tliem  toj^'ether  and  ti'd 
them   for  <  mr  amusement. 

The  Central  lliudu  Collei^e  and  ScIkioI  was  founded 
b\-  .\lr^.  Annie  lu^aut  lor  the  pi"i  mK  )ii(  )ii  (if  ihe  lliudu 
ndi^ion.  to  combine  the  tc'achin^  (if  that  faith  with  a 
W  e^tt'rn    education.      The    scIkkiI    is    Inm^ed    in    a    fiiu' 


iC) 


ROLXIJ  'IMiK   WORLD    1 X   SIIJ'.XCI-: 


building",  and  there  were  a  i^ocxl  many  l)ri^lil-face(l 
yount;'  men  and  l)()_\s  aronnd. 

The  raihva}'  ride  from  lienares  to  Calcutta  took 
twenty-four  hours:  and  this.  m_\-  last  journev  in  India, 
was  the  most  comfortable  of  all.  It  was  \erv  inter- 
esting;' to  \vatch  the  change  in  the  country.  The  \eL;e- 
tation  i^rew  more  tropical,  and  little  \illages  a|)])cared 
on  the  shores  of  tiny  lakes  in  the  iuni^ie.  As  we  went 
further  south,  the  i)eo])le  became  cleaner  and  neater  in 
appearance.  Their  white  garments  were  snoww  in- 
stead of  din,i;_\-.  It  ,^rew'  hotter  and  hotter,  and  we 
si<4iied  for  the  lii^iit  t^arments  in  our  trunks.  At  last 
the  loni;"  hours  \vore  away,  and  we  reached  llowrah. 
where  the  railwa}-  station  is.  on  the  other  side  of  the 
ri\-er  from  Calcutta. 

Calcutta  was  not  a  bit  like  what  1  had  imagined  it 
would  be.  The  plai^ue  was  spreadini;  in  the  cit_\-.  and 
whencNcr  we  went  out.  our  anxious  friends  warned  us 
to  be  careful.  To  add  to  our  ner\-ousness  we  saw 
man_\-  le])ers  on  the  streets. 

Calcutta  cab  dri\'ers  are  the  most  stupid  in  the 
world.  We  had  to  be  on  the  alert  all  the  time  to  see 
where  we  were  .^oins^";  and  we  found  it  necessar\-  to 
incjuire  the  way  oursehes  ot  the  ])assersby.  —  who 
often  sent  us  wron^^'.  I'nder  the  circmnstances.  it  took 
such  a  lon|4'  time  to  oet  anywhere  that  our  outiuL^s  were 
not  of  unalloyed  delij^ht. 

The  Maiden  or  Esplanade  is  most  beautiful,  tlie 
,^Teen  of  its  hus^'e  trees  and  the  sward  beneath  them, 
blendin,^-  with  that  of  the  Ivlen  Cardens  and  the 
^'rounds  of  the  (jo\-ernment  House,  is  a  continuous  re- 
freshment to  e\es  tired  u\  sun-dried  brick.  l)aked  earth, 
and   u'larinij'  sk\'. 


ROL'Xl)  'iMil*.   WOIU.I)    IX   SILl'.XCI': 


ij; 


It  was  in  Calcutta  that  I  first  saw  a  crowd  of  Mo- 
liammedans  at  c\ciiin^'  ])ra\cr.  I  was  drixini^'  alonjj; 
tlie  Cho\vin<4iiec  Koad.  when  my  attention  was  at- 
tracted l)y  a  crowd  of  well-dressed  ])eoi)le.  standing"  in 
front  of  an  o]hmi  space,  facing'  the  sunset.  Wdnderint; 
what  it  was  that  held  their  interest.  I  continued  to 
watch  them,  and  was  amazed  to  see  them  all  droj)  on 
their  knees  and  l)t)w  down  to  the  L^'round,  re[)eatinf4' 
the  ])rostration  o\-er  and  o\er  aj^ain. 

The  Kalii^hat  'rem])le.  after  which  Calcutta  was 
named,  is  on  the  hank  of  the  old  bed  of  the  C.an.^es.  and 
is  su])])osed  to  ha\e  been  built  three  centuries  aj^o. 
Two  lumdred  _^"oats  are  sacrificed  here  each  (la\-  as  an 
offering'  to  the  L^'oddess  Kali.  M  \'  companions  were 
much  disturbed  by  their  ])itiful  cries  as  the\-  were 
slaui^htered. 

The  Royal  liotanical  Cardens  are  reached  1)\-  a  hot. 
dusty.  uninxitiuL;'  dri\e  of  more  than  three  hotu's.  but 
they  are  well  worth  the  discomtort  e.\])erienced  in 
reachiuL^'  them.  The  ferneries  and  orchid  house  would 
interest  e\en  the  most  jaded.  The  (^reat  l!an\an  tree, 
with  its  lour  hundred  and  sixt\--four  roots,  is  a  small 
forest  in  itself:  these  curious  roots  hani;"  down  from  the 
branches  and  make  sup])lementar\-  tree  trunks  of  them- 
>el\es.  The  Creat  lianyau  is  a  hundred  and  thirty 
\ears  old. 

Calcutta  shops  are  ex])ensi\-e  and  not  \er\-  attractixe. 
We  found  it  the  best  fun  to  i^o  to  the  "  .Market"  —  a 
liu^e  bnildiuL^'  where  there  were  arcades  of  nati\e  sho])S 
lull  ol  lascinatiuL;"  thinj^^s. 

.\n<l  now  ni\  days  in  India  are  oxer  —  ])oor,  sad. 
fa--cinat iiiL:    India. 


12.S 


ROUXD  'I'lll':   WORLD    IX   SlLEXCl'. 


XH 

v^.  v^.  Macedonia,  in  llie  China  v'^ea. 
(1   interest,    \\•a^ 


INDIA,  in  spite  of  its  eliarni  and  interest,  was  so 
de])ressinii'  that  we  felt  no  dee])  reL;ret  wlien  the 
Ilanj^'ahi.  l)oun(l  for  Rani^oon  sH])])e(l  down  the 
tloo^^'h]\'  ri\er.  with  ns  on  hoard.  ( )nr  two  (hi\s  on 
tliat  nice  clean  little  hoat  were  \er\-  i)leasant  and  rest- 
ful, and  its  hreez}'  deck  was  douhly  delij^iitful  after  the 
heat,  crowd  and  dust  of  Calcutta.  The  llooj^hU'  is  a 
treacherotis  ri\er.  and  so  difficult  to  na\i,L;ate  that  no 
\-esse!  sails  on  it  at  nis^iit.  We  met  with  no  delays, 
hut  the  hoat  on  ^\hich  the  lirowns  left  Calcutta,  two 
daws  ahead  of  us.  ran  ai^round.  and  did  not  reach  Kan- 
;^-oon  until  a  few  liours  hefore  we  did.  The  llani^-ala 
passed  l^le])hant  I'oint  early  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
second  da}-,  and,  leaxdnt;'  the    l'>ay  of   Heni^al.  sailed  uj) 


second  da}-,  and,  leaxint;'  the   l'>a\-  ol 

"'•"  " "' nd  ancho"  ■ 

It  was  ([uite  dar 


> .K._.  ,  ^> . . . ,,  . ^ ^1 .  . . . V,   u . . ^    .  -.i_ 

tlie  Rant^'oon  l\i\er  and  anchored  ahou 
the  citv.  at  sunset. 


t  t(  )ur  miles  fr(  )m 
when  the  tender 
We  had   ])er- 


LII^      \.ll\,     CIL     .^LMl.^l^L.  IL       \\(l.^      VILIIL*^       Vl<lil\       Wllkll       LIIL       L^IIVIL 

^vith  the  health  officer  came  out  to  us.  We  had  ])ei 
mission  to  i;'o  up  to  the  city  on  it.  hut  as  the  transfer 
rinii"  from  shi])  to  tender  in  the  dark  was  not  in\-itini 
the  \'ote  to  remain  on  hoard  tmtil  morniui;'  was  unani 
mous. 

Rani;'oon  strikes  one  as  an  unfinished  sort  of  town; 
the  landiui^'  ])lace  was  an  ordinary  wooden  slied.  and 
^\•e  had  to  wade  throui^ii  dee])  sand  to  reach  our  ghar- 
ries. There  are  handsome  stone  huildin^s  dotted  here 
and  there  amou^'  the  rows  ot  common  wooden  huild- 
in^s.      Tlie    L^reat    Shwe    I'a^oda    dominates    the    town. 


ROL'XD  Till".  WORLD   IX  SILKXCE 


1_'9 


130 


ROUXD  rWE  WORLD    l\   SILI'A'Cl'. 


and  the  i^ieani  of  its  i^'oldcn  ti  can  l)c  seen  from  alar. 
The  streets  are  full  of  cheerful  VUc  and  l)ustle.  and  one 
is  at  once  attracted  1)}"  the  l)rin"ht-e}"ed.  clean,  and  in- 
telHfi'cnt-lookinii'  Burmese.  We  (h'o\e  around  and  \is- 
ited  \-arious  shops.  l)oth  J<",n_^lish  and  native.  'Idie  ISur- 
mcse  wood-carving'  is  \-ery  aml)itious.  mostl}-  larj^e 
hea\'v  pieces.  re])resentin:4"  animals  and  tit^'ures.  ((uite 
(litlerent  from  the  Indian  car\ini;'.  'Jdieir  sih'er  work 
is  Aery  fine. 

In  the  European  cpiarter  are  miles  of  \\ell-ke])t  roads, 
with  \'illas  and  gardens.  The  dri\e  through  Dalhousie 
Park  and  around  the  Royal  Lake  was  most  attractixc. 
The  roads  around  this  lake  are  so  cunningly  planned 
that.  whene\er  we  turned  a  corner,  there  was  a  fresh 
vista  or  charming  xdew  of  the  lake  with  the  sunset 
skies  and  glimpses  of  the  (ireat  Pagoda  across  the 
water. 

'Jdie  visit  to  the  Timber  ^'ards  was  a  no\el  ex])eri- 
cnce.  Oiu"  carriage  halted  at  the  edge  of  a  wide  held 
of  half  dried  mud.  across  wdiich  la\'  a  trail  of  huge 
logs,  and  o\-er  them  we  ])icked  our  wax.  cree])ing  care- 
full}'  along  so  as  not  to  lose  our  balance  and  go  off  in 
the  mud.  as  one  ])oor  girl  in  our  ])arty  did.  s])lashing  in 
abox'c  her  shoe-tops.  (  )n  the  other  side  of  llie  held 
two  elephants  \\-ere  at  work,  harnessed  by  huge  chains 
with  which  the\-  were  dragging  the  hea\'\-  leak  Ings 
slowl}-  along  to  stack  them  at  the  further  end  of  the 
field. 

The  great  Shwe  Dagon  I'agoda  is  the  oldest,  finest 
and  most  \-isited  of  all  the  liuddhist  temples.  Pil- 
grims come  from  all  o\er  the  world  to  worshi])  there. 
It  stands  on  a  hill,  and  is  reached  1)\-  a  long  tliglit  nf 
ste])s.  at   the   foot   of   which   are   two  giant    leogr\])hs. 


ROL'XD  Till".  WORIJ)   IX  SILKXCI". 


131 


132 


ROL'XI)  'JMNC   WORLD    I X   SIIJCXCI': 


iiiRM  i;m-:  sii  kixi-: 


willi  red  t()iiij,iu'S  IdlliiiL^-  fn  mi  llu'ir  w  i(l(,'-o])(,-n  nioiitlis. 
Tliis  stairway  is  enclosed  and  niofcd.  with  (.nirious 
])ainlinj4>  under  tlic  ca\cs.      At   the   second   lli^ht,   one 


ROUXD  Till-:  WORLD  IX  SI  LlvXCI' 


133 


comes  to  the  older  part,  ^vllere  the  ])assaj4e\va\"  is 
floored  with  cement,  and  is  \-ery  slip])ery,  with  a  stej) 
here  and  there  breaking-  the  slo])e.  The  whole  w;u'  up 
is  lined  with  stalls,  where  flowers,  ])ra}er  liases,  brass 
tem])le  ^on^s,  cigars,  and  man\'  other  things  are  tor 
sale.  At  the  summit  is  the  i)a^'()da,  three  hundred  and 
se\ent_\'  leet  hif^h,  coxered  with  thin  i^'old  ])late,  and 
surmounted  1)\-  a  i^ilt  ti.  or  umbrella,  on  which  ai'e 
Iiuul:"  multitudes  of  u'old  and  siher  bells. 


AM  )K\i\c,    rK.\>i:  k. 


:WI':     DACoX     I'ACODA 


Aniund  it  is  a  broad  si)ace.  It  is  lett  o])en  lor  the 
wor>hi])pers.  and  all  around  on  the  outside,  shrines  are 
rrowdc'cl  ha])hazard,  —  lar^e  and  small,  o])en  and 
clo'-i'd.  Souk-  (iI  tlu'in  were  coNcred  with  dark'  red  or 
blue  .^la>s  mo>aic,  with  beautilul  cllect;  otheis  were 
carxi-il  nr  L;ildcd,  and  still  others  were  iif  plain  stoue. 
l',\  c-r\ wln-rc  were  ri^ure>,  lari^e  and  >mall,  (il  (lautama 
llic    I'.nddlia,   ]■(■])r^■~^^nted   a>  >landin^,   >iuinL;.  or   lyin^' 


134  ROUXD  TITI".  WORLD  TX  STLl-A'CK 

down  ;  all  of  them  sniiliiii>',  swcetlv  and  \acanil 


V.         IjC- 


forc  ncarh'  c\er\-  shrine,  a  slout  cross-beam  snjjporled 


ROUXD  TH1-:   WORLD   IX   SILKXCl': 


135 


a  nunil)er  of  l)rass  discs  or  bells,  which  the  worshi])i)er 
struck  to  call  the  attention  of  men  to  his  piety  and  the 
attention  of  the  li'ods  to  his  prayer. 

Anioni^st  the  shrines  with  which  the  i^reat  ])latforni 
is  crowded  are  stalls  for  the  sale  of  curiosities.  WOr- 
shi])pers  were  kneeling'  or  arran^ins^'  flowers  in  tiny 
terra-cotta  \ases  before  the  shrines,  it  was  a  scene 
of  greatest  animation  and  interest.  Here  also  is  the 
hu^e  bell  that  is  considered  the  third  largest  in  the 
world.  The  I^n^iish  started  to  carry  it  away  as  a 
troi)hy  after  their  war  with  lUtrma.  bttt  by  some  niislui]) 
it  was  simk  to  the  bottom  of  the  Rangoon  Ri\er. 
'Idien,  as  the  I'jii^iish  eni^ineers  did  not  succeed  in 
raisinii"  it,  the  lUu'mese  were  L;i\en  permission  to  raise 
it  if  they  pleased.  The  JMii^iish  had  no  ex])ectation 
that  an\thin^"  could  be  accom])lished,  but  the  liurmese 
succeeded,  not  only  in  ^ettin^'  the  bell  u])  from  the 
ri\er,  but  also  in  han^in^-  it  aj^ain. 

Ivan^oon  was  so  interesting'  1  was  sorr\-  to  lea\e. 
The  boats  for  I'enan^"  onl\-  run  fortnii.;htl\-.  and  the 
regular  boat  had  just  i^one,  but  the  Dtmera  was  mak- 
ing- a  >])ecial  tri])  to  brin^'  u])  an  i-'ni^iish  Royal  !)uke 
and  I  )uchess.  thus  L;i\ini.^'  us  a  chance  to  connect  with 
the  .Macedonia  for  llon^'  Kon^'.  it  seemed  s])eciall\' 
intended  lor  us,  so  we  went  ^'ail\-  down  to  the  tender, 
but  our  L;'aiet\-  died  awa\-  when  we  i!;nl  on  board  and 
di--co\cre(l  h(»w  small  and  crowded  the  cabins  were. 
h'.\ery  one  ot  the  lour  berths  in  each  stateroom  had 
been  taken:  and  the  heat  was  intense,  I)oih  da\-  and 
ni^ht.  .\lan\-  of  the  ])as>enL;ers  liad  iheir  bed^  taken 
up  on  (K-ck  :  and  to  tliose  of  us  who  cIuul;"  to  our  berths, 
the  ni.^hts  seemed  endless.  Al  last  the  three  days 
Wore  awa\,  and  earl\   ou  Sunda\   morninL:  w  r  anchored 


136 


ROUND  THK  WORLD  IX  SILFAXE 


off  L'enaiiL^-.  An  hour  later,  when  the  tender  eanie.  we 
\vere  all  ready  to  lea\-e,  with  no  lin^erini^-  this  time. 
The  harbor  was  full  of  (jueer  little  Chinese  rowhoats. 
Avith  hni^e  eyes  i)ainted  on  the  stern.  You  know  the 
Chinese  sa_\'  their  boats  ean'l  see  where  tlie\  are  i^oin^', 
il  the\-  ha\-e  n(  >  eves. 


■nil-;  i.AXDixc.    •  I'lcx.wo 


I'enan^"  lascinated  nie  Iroin  the  moment  \  set  foot  on 
land,  h'ine  stone  bnildinj^'s  surround  the  broad  o])en 
sjjaec  on  wdiieh  the  landing-  fronts.  In  drixiuL;'  throuL^h 
the  streets,  I  bobbed  baek  and  forth  in  a  \ain  effort  to 
take  in  all  the  strange  sights.  — the  Chinese  stores, 
with  llutterini^'  red  ])ai)er  tai^s  all  o\er  the  front  ;  Chi- 
nese women  in  blaek  ^ia/.ed  cotton  trousers;  funn\- 
little  almond-e\ed  babies;  eoolies  with  basket  hats  and 


R(3U.\D  'rill>:  WORLD   rx  SILF.XCK 


13; 


two  more  baskets  sus])en(le(l  Irom  a  ])()le  l)alanee(l  on 
tlieir  shoulders;  Ceylonese  with  their  round  hair 
coml)s  ;  Inchans  in  white  turl)ans  :  fat  Chinese  men  in 
l''!uro]>ean  s^arl).  rithni^'  in  jinrickishas:  Chinese  houses 
with  i;()r<4eous  carx'ed  and  i^ilded  doors  oi)enini4'  (h- 
rectly  on  tlie  street;  elegant  carriages,  (h"awn  1)\-  fine 
horses,  and  tilled  with  (|uaint  slant-eyed  children,  who 
were  co\ered  with  jewelry;  beautiful,  wide  streets, 
shaded  by  wonderful  tro])ical  trees,  bordered  1)\'  rows 
ot  \-illas.  where  Chinese  babies,  with  thickly  ])owdered 
laces,  ])la}-ed  on  the  i^rassy  lawns.  These  babies  were 
the  most  comical  little  thini^'s.  'idieir  little  bald  heads 
were  literally  white-washed  with  powder.  —  sometimes 
it  was  the  little  face,  and  sometimes  the  whole  head. 
The}-  tell  me  it  is  necessary  in  this  hot.  moist  air.  to 
])rotect  the  tender  skin.  Some  of  the  babies  went  in 
for  a  touch  of  color,  and  instead  of  ha\-in_^'  the  head 
totally  sha\e(l.  had  a  "  bani;' "  all  around  the  top.  and 
Irom  tliis  huni^-  a  seal])  lock  tied  with  red  ribbon. 

I'enan^'  is  only  eif^'hty  miles  from  the  e(|uator.  but. 
the_\-  sa_\'.  the  thermometer  ne\-er  rises  his/her  than 
eii^lity-eii^iit  de,!:^"rees.  Xe\-ertheless  I  felt  the  heat 
more  than  on  any  .\u,^tist  day  in  .Xew  \'ork.  thotit^h 
oiH'  (piarters  were  most  airy  and  comfortable.  (  )ur 
hosts  tried  to  teach  us  how  to  eat  all  sorts  of  strani^e 
iruit.  —  such  as  durian.  which  smells  like  kerosene  oil. 
and  looks,  when  o])ened.  like  i)ieces  of  halibut,  and 
chi])o,  that  makes  one  think  of  baked  jjotato.  and 
tastes  like  rotten  a])])]e.  Tlie  ])umelo.  jack  fruit, 
and  man,^o>teen  were  a  few  more  thai  w c  lasted.  1 
counli-d  scwen  dilTerent  \arieties  of  fruil  mi  our  table 
at  one  meal.  It  w  a>  the  limt-  of  the  C'hinese  Xew 
^  ear.   and    nt'arh-    e\cr\-    daw   ijifls   of   C"liiue>e   dainties 


138 


ROL'XT)  TliK  WORLD  1  X  SlIJ-A'CK 


were  sent  ns.  Tlie  sea-weed  jellw  rice  candv,  and 
cakes,  were  delicious. 

On  Febrnar\-  l^tli.  wliicli  is  the  Chinese  New  N'ear's 
])a}',  we  went  calhn^',  —  a  lon^'  jjrocession  of  us.  —  in 
oin-  jinrickislias.  It  was  nine  o'clock  wlien  we  slarteck 
and  it  look  us  all  the  rest  of  ihe  morning;'  lo  make  three 
calls.  The  first  was  at  a  Christian  Chinese  lionie. 
We  ])assed  through  a  drui^'  store  into  a  lar^e  room. 
e\-i(lently  the  famil\-  lixin^'-room,  wdiere  the  two  ladies 
of  the  house  c^'reeted  us.  When  we  had  all  keen  seated, 
they  withdrew  to  a  corner,  where  stood  a  lart^'e  cabinet 
full  of  nealK'  arranj^'cd  soda-water  bottles,  tins  of 
J-Cn^dish  l)iscuit  and  a  \ariet\-  of  Chinese  dainties. 
While  they  were  l)us\-  there,  we  had  time  to  ins])ect 
the  room.  The  tiled  lloor  was  dei)ressed  in  one  corner 
about  a  foot  lower  than  the  rest  of  the  floor,  and  on  the 
ledi^e  around  it  were  llowerin^'  plants  in  liandsome 
stone  jars.  There  were  ])ort raits  on  the  walls,  and  the 
chairs  and  settees,  ranged  alon^"  the  walls,  were  ot 
handsome  car\ed  el)on\-.  contrasting'  oddK-  with  the 
common  deal  dinin;L;'-ta])le  and  chairs  in  the  middle  of 
the  room.  (  )ur  hostess  came  back  laden  with  ti"a\s 
full  of  little  round  dishes  of  delicious-lookinL;-  things, 
amber-clear  sea-weed  jelK',  stri])s  of  candied  ])um])kin. 
crx'stallized  Iruit.  and  \arious  unknown  delicacies. 
The\'  i)ressed  us  to  tr\-  e\er\thini4\  and  ])resentc(l  the 
trays  ai^ain  and  aj^ain.  Con\-ersation  languished,  as 
they  knew  little   hjii^iish.  and  we  less  Chinese. 

'Idle  second  house  was  a  heathen  home,  and  the 
hea\y  carx'ed  and  gilded  door  was  o])ene(l  1)\-  m\  lad\ 
hersell.  who  fluttered  awa\-  as  we  came  in.  and  llut- 
tered  back  accom])anit'd  1)\'  her  mother-in-law  and  ful- 
lowed  b\-  her  husband,  a  vouul'"  man  in  daintx'  la\en(h'r 


ROUXD  TMF.  WORLD    IX   SILKXCE  139 

silk.  A\'e  sliook  hands  all  around  and  sat  down.  'Ihe 
two  ladies,  who  were  evidently  hij2,"hly  delig'hted.  ran  in 
and  out  with  entirely  superfluous  chairs,  while  the 
husband  busied  himself  ])ouring'  tea  for  us.  The  ro(Mn 
was  ])eautifull\-  furnished.  All  the  furniture  was  of 
car\ed  ebon\'.  inlaid  with  pearl,  and  there  were  s^old- 
embroidered  scarlet  satin  cushions  on  the  chairs. 
( )d(lly  enoui^ii.  the  brick  lloor  was  unco\ered.  .\t  one 
end  of  the  room,  a  lari.;e  ancestral  tablet  huni;'  on  the 
wall,  and  under  it  was  an  ebony  table  set  out  with  a 
feast  for  the  s])irits  of  the  i^randfather  and  i^rand- 
mother:  about  the  table  chairs  stood  in  waitint;'  for  the 
Li'hostl}-  \isitors.  There  was  an  ordinary  round  dinin^- 
table  in  the  middle  of  the  room.  and.  when  cane  chairs 
had  been  set  out  around  it.  we  were  inxited  to  occupy 
them  and  ])artake  of  sweetmeats.  (M'ani^'es,  ])reser\-e(l 
manLi'osteens  and  candied  fruit.  Our  little  hostess, 
wlio  was  \er\-  sh\-.  could  speak  hjit^iish.  for  she  had 
been  at  school  for  si.x  ^■cars.  as  she  proudl\-  informed 
us.  We  had  been  left  al(_)ne  to  eat  :  but  w  hen  the  little 
wile  was  cauj^ht  ])ee])ini;4"  in.  we  coaxed  her  to  come 
and  sit  with  us.  Iler  jewels  were  L;'orL;'eous.  and  the\- 
tell  me  that  the  Chinese  ne\-er  wear  imitation  ^ems. 
This  little  woman  wore  a  red  and  \ello\v  striped  cotton 
skirt,  a  white  cotton  jack';i  with  ])ink  llowers.  slii)])ers. 
but  no  stockings,  and  hea\'\-  i^'old  anklets.  Iler  jacket 
\\as  lastened  b\'  fom*  larj^e  diamond  ])ins.  the  lari^est 
beinj^'  at  least  three  inches  in  diameter.  In  her  hair 
were  >ix  pins  co\-cred  with  diamonds.  Diamonds 
twinkled  in  her  ears,  and  on  her  tini^ers.  around  her 
nc'ck  was  an  ex(|m'>ite  .L^idd  lilii^ree  chain,  and  on  her 
wri>ts  ma^niticent  bracelet>.  The  iamilx  hirtuni' 
-eemed  to  \\;i\v  all  been  hun^'  n])on  hei",  a>  llu'  moiluT- 


140 


ROUND  T!IK  WORLD  TX   SlDl'AXK 


in-law  had  only  a  few  jewelled  pins  in  her  hair  as  orna- 
ment. The  little  wife,  when  we  admired  her  jewels. 
])olitelv  returned  the  compliment  o\'er  onr  modest  ar- 
ray, and  then  asked  if  we  would  like  to  i^o  upstairs. 
We  all  followed  her.  u])  a  steep  narrow  stair  in  the 
next  room,  into  a  bed  room,  where  there  was  a  lar^e 
musical  box  and  sexeral  xoun^-  Chinese  ladies,  all  more 
or  less  i^iitteriui;"  with  t^X'ins.  We  admired  each  other's 
jewelry,  hair  and  dresses:  the  musical  box  was  wound 
up  for  our  l)eneht,  and  the  Chinese  ladies  were  much 
interested  at  seeinj^'  me  listen  to  the  music  by  ])uttini;" 
my  hands  on  the  box.  They  showed  us  some  beauti- 
lul  bead-work,  and  took  us  into  a  real  Chinese  l)ed- 
room,  all  furnished  in  red  lac(pier  and  i^ilt.  The  little 
wife  was  the  only  one  that  could  speak  I{nL;,iish  :  but 
with  the  aid  of  natural  sij^ns  we  made  the  others  under- 
stand us. 

renans^-,  like  many  other  cities,  boasts  the  "most 
beautiful  botanical  i^'arden  in  the  world".  The  Ayer 
Itam  Tem])le,  one  ol  l'enani;"s  show-places,  has  a  small 
l)()n(l  in  its  grounds,  where  there  are  a  nund)er  of 
sacred  tortoises,  cared  for  bv  the  monks.  To  h;i\e 
one's  name  carxed  on  the  back  of  one  of  these  rei)tiles 
insures  lia\"in^"  one's  sins  forj^ix'en  as  loni^'  as  the  crea- 
ture li\es,  and.  as  the\'  olten  li\e  to  be  oxer  a  hundred, 
this  means  lor  a  louij,"  xxhile.  A  1amil\-  name  insures 
the  whole  familx'.  (  )f  course  this  means  a  fat  fee  to 
the  ])riest. 

I  called  one  day  on  .Mrs.  T ,  a  xerx'  sxxeet  Chinese 

lady,  \xhose  sister,  an  attractixe  xoun^'  .^irl,  who  has 
since  died,  xisited  mx'  home  some  x'cars  a^o.  Iler 
beautilul  home  \xas  Cliinese-h'n^iish.  the  l(iwer  lloor 
willi    its    carxc'd    ebonx-    furniture    and    arram^ement    ol 


^OL'XI)  Till".   WORLD    l.\    SIIJ'.XCI", 


141 


rooms  was  (|uite  Chinese:  ui)stairs,  I  was  uslicrcd  into 
a  (listincti\el\-  I'ji^iisli  drawint^'-room.  willi  easy  cliairs, 
l)ictnrcs,    and    l)ric-a-l)rac.      J    liad    lo   pinch    myself,    to 


realize  that  1  was  not  in  London.  That  realization 
c-ame  :-hMrtl\-,  when  some  Chinese  children  t'alled.  'I  he 
little  thin,L;>  wc-re  so  loa<led  with  ji-wels  that  it  ilid  not 
>eem  a>  ii  there  were  room   for  a  sin.^le  s])an^le  k'll  on 


142  ROUND  THE  WORLD  IX  SILEXCK 

their  small  ])crsons.     Airs.  T herself  was  dressed 

most  simply  and  daintily  in  ]:)alc  blue  challis.  Her 
little  son.  ten  months  old.  in  his  Xew  Year's  array  of 
tinv  trousers  and  coat  of  pale  blue  brocaded  satin, 
trimmed  with  black  velvet,  and  a  Idack  velvet  Tam 
o'Shanter.  which  she  had  made  with  her  own  fair 
fingers,  made  the  very  "  cutest  '"  ])icture  I  e\-er  saw. 
Her  husband  is  a  brilliant  man.  a  graduate  of  the  L^ni- 
versitv  of  Edinburgh,  with  a  long  list  of  honors  from 
various  European  unixersities. 

On  our  last  night  in  I'enang  we  took  dinner  with  an 
American  famih'.  thus  having  a  delightful  bit  of  home 
life.  'Jdie  long  table  was  surrounded  by  children  of  all 
sizes.  A\-ho  had  been  out  in  the  country  on  a  picnic,  and 
were  full  of  tales  of  Avhat  they  had  seen  during  the 
day.  ]  had  a  chance  to  look  over  home  magazines  and 
])apers  that  1  had  not  seen  for  months,  and  later  they 
took  me  to  see  an  old  Chinese  lad}',  with  bound  feet, 
who  was  at  work  embroidering  a  new  pair  of  shoes  for 
herself.  Our  hostess  came  to  see  us  oft  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  finding  me  in  despair  because  the  laundr\-- 
man.  in  s])ite  of  most  faithful  promises,  had  failed  to 
return  luy  i)rcttiest  bk^use  waist,  ^•olunteere(l  to  go 
after  it  :  she  met  us  at  the  dock  with  a  dripping  1)undle. 
fresh  from  the  tub.  The  beautiful  l)ig  Macedonia,  the 
same  boat  which  we  had  watched  sail  from  Port  v^aid 
for  Australia  three  months  before,  left  I'enang  at  noon 
with  us  on  board.  Jt  is  now  en  route  from  I^ondon  to 
v^hanghai.  l)ut  ^\•e  lea\e  it  at  Hong  Kong.  1  ha\-e  a 
deck  stateroom  all  to  mwself.  and  am  enjoving  e\erv 
luoment.  At  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the  dav 
after  leax'ing  i'enang.  we  came  to  anchor  at  Singa])ore. 
near  the  I'.  vS.  warship  I'.altimore  which,  as  well  as  all 


ROUXi:)  Till':  WORLD    IX   SlIJvXCl': 


143 


the  other  shi])i)ini;"  in  the  harl)or.  was  coxercd  with 
flag's  and  l)nntin!^".  Salutes  were  heiiii^"  hred.  and 
e\-er\-thini^'  was  excitement  o\-er  an  hjigiish  royal  duke 
who  was  sailing"  around  the  harhor  inspecting  the 
craft. 

After  we  had  wa'ted  an  hour,  the  tender  to  take  us 
ashore  hnall\-  a])i)eare<l.  and  the  whole  crowd  of  us 
wedg'ecl  in  on  the  little  craft.  'Idiere  were  no  seats  ; 
and  l)etween  the  heat  of  the  sun  and  that  of  the  ma- 
chiner\-  we  were  all  done  l)roAvn  hy  the  time  we  landed. 

Our  ])art\'  had  gone  ashore,  expecting  to  take  a  ride 
around  the  cit}'.  do  a  little  shop])ing,  and  then  return 
to  the  shi]).  hut  on  the  dock  one  of  the  Methodist  mis- 
sionaries was  waiting  to  take  us  to  the  Puhlishing 
J  louse,  which  is  almost  oi)posite  the  dock.  liere  Ave 
were  told  that  e\ery thing"  had  l)een  arranged  for  us  all 
in  sta\-  o\er  night  on  shore,  and  that  inx'itation  had 
alrea(h"  heen  gi\"en  for  an  afternoon  rece])tion  at  which 
the  I"  v^.  Consul  and  his  wife  would  be  present. 

v^ing"a])ore  is  a  \ery  attractive  city,  and,  being  near 
the  greatest  tin  mines  in  the  world,  is  a  great  trade 
centre. 

( )ur  (lri\-e  terminated  on  the  crown  of  vSo])hia  ilill, 
where  we  \\"ere  to  spend  the  night.  It  is  a  beautiful 
s])ot,  with  a  glorious  \iew.  o\er  the  trees,  of  the  city 
below,  and  the  l)a\-  with  our  (|ueenl\'  .Macedonia  at 
anchor.  l\ece])tion  and  dinner  oxer,  a  ])art\-  of  us  went 
out  to  one  ol  the  sid)url)s.  to  a  .Malax'  .Mohammedan 
xxedding.  We  Axent  doxxn  tiie  hill  bx"  wax-  ol  a  stair- 
way on  the  to])  of  a  stone  wall,  xxhich  terininated  near 
a  trolley  line.  It  was  so  long  sinct'  1  had  been  on  a 
trolley  car,  thai  the  rai)i(l  ride  in  llu'  sdlt  \xarm  air, 
ihrouuh    the    L'ailx-lii'hted    streets    of    Chinese    stores 


144 


kOL'XI)  Till".  WORLD    IX   SILl^XCl': 


decked  with  liui^e  lanterns  was  \•er^•  deliL^iitful.  At 
the  edfi'e  of  tlie  cit_\'  we  left  the  car  and  felt  our  wa\' 
aloni;'  a  dark  country  road  to  the  foot  of  a  loni;-  hill, 
and  then  u])  a  wide  terraced  ])ath.  with  Chinese  lanterns 
strung;'  aloni^-  each  side  up  to  the  house  on  the  to]). 
The  male  element  ot  the  occasion  was  ctMi^reyated 
outside  the  door,  waiting;'  for  the  hridci^Toom.  'rhe\- 
i4"reete(l  us  with  much  cordialit}-.  and  ushered  us  into 
the  house,  or  rather  into  a  small  room,  neatlv  furnished 
witli  new  mattini^-  and  a  number  of  cus])i(l(.)rs.  At  a 
door  in  the  further  end,  tlie  lady  oi  the  house  welcomed 
us  into  the  inner  room,  where  there  were  a  number  of 
.Malay  women  sitting'  on  the  floor  all  alouL;'  the  walls. 
We  sat  down  near  the  door  and.  as  eti(|uette  seemed 
to  demand  silence,  we  had  am])le  time  to  obserxe  our 
surroundinL^s.  The  tloor  was  coxered  with  stri])s  of 
Hrussels  car]^et,  laid  just  to  ht  into  each  other,  and  not 
fastened  down.  There  was  a  small  ])latform  at  one 
end  of  the  room  tor  the  lu'ide,  and  at  the  other  end  a 
lar_^e  ])latform,  extending-  all  the  wa\'  across  the  room, 
with  ste])S  and  a  wide  cushion  i  ir  mattress  on  top. 
'Jdiis  was  to  be  the  bridal  bed  and  was  com])letel\-  co\'- 
ered  with  Turke\"  red.  ornamented  with  wide  bands  of 
handsome  j^'ilt  leather  cut  work:  at  one  end  was  a  lar,i;e 
])ile  of  ])illows.  similarl}-  cox'cred  and  ornamented:  and 
in  the  middle  was  the  small  lace-co\-ered  pillow  the 
Chinese  ha\'e  in  the  luiddle  ot  all  their  beds.  TIkw  call 
it  the  ■■  l)utch  wife".  liack  of  this  ])latform  a  hea\\- 
curtain  hid  the  rest  of  the  room,  and  we  were  told  the 
bride  was  behind  it.  Chine>e  weddings  last  three 
da\s  :  and  the  L^rooni  is  not  allowed  to  see  his  wite  until 
the  third  daw  This  was  the  second  day  ot  this  wed- 
ding.     The  women  around  us  sat  immoxable.  chewiui^' 


RorXI)  'IMII".   WORLD    l\   SIIJ'.XCI'.  145 

]ian.  luicli  \vt)nian  liad  l)csi(lc  her  a  small  wooden  box 
holding-  two  brass  bowls  and  a  bunch  of  i^rcen  lea\cs  : 
she  also  had  a  brass  cus])idor.  She  \vould  pluck  a  leaf 
from  the  bunch,  and  ])lace  thereon  a  betel  nul  and  a 
portion  of  white  ])aste  frc^ni  one  of  the  bowls,  and  chew 
the  whok'  industriously.  I'll  draw  a  \q{\  o\-er  the  rest. 
An  hour  ]-)assed  :  and  the  small  room  with  its  one 
window-,  that  had  been  swelterin;;-  at  the  bet.;imiiuL;-. 
became  almost  too  much  for  tis.  Suddenly  thini^'s 
woke  up:  the  curious  candelabra  of  wax,  wire  and 
worsted,  were  lighted  on  the  ])latform,  and  the  ctu'tain 
o\er  the  door  was  lifted  for  the  bridej^'room,  who  came 
in,  lollowcd  1)\'  his  best  man,  a  handsome  bo}'  ol 
twehe.  most  L^'or^eously  arrax'cd.  'rhe\'  sat  down  on 
the  ])latlorm.  tacini^'  the  room,  incense  was  lighted,  and 
a  tray  covered  with  little  brass  bowls  was  set  out.  The 
l)ride"s  father  came  in  and.  seating'  himself  jtist  below 
the  bridegroom,  took  a  ".^reen  s])rit.i'  from  the  tray, 
dii)])ed  it  into  the  difterent  inL^redients  in  the  diti'erent 
trays  and  touched  u])  the  groom's  hnj^'ers  and  the  ])alms 
of  his  hands  :  this  done,  he  departed,  and  a  i)riest  with  a 
>hawl  o\-er  his  head  to  kee])  him  from  the  sin  of  seeing- 
any  women,  sttunbled  in  and  ^'roped  his  wa\'  to  the 
])lace  \acated.  repeatini;-  the  ])rocess  the  father  had 
^'(ine  throuL^ii.  The  ^'room  seemed  to  think  this  x'cry 
amu:-iuL;',  lor  he  ]auL;he(l  lieartiK'  with  a  brilliant  dis- 
])]ay  of  white  teeth,  while  tlie  ])riest  made  his  wa\- 
out.  Another  ])riest  in  a  beautiful  ])ink  silk  robe  that 
came  down  to  hi--  heels,  then  made  liis  a])i)earance,  and 
took  his  ttirn  at  paiiuin^-  tlie  groom's  hn^er  nails  and 
palm,^.  When  he  went  iiut.  the  masculine  i)art  of  the 
ccr(.'mon\  >eemcd  to  be  iiwr.  for  the  L;riiom  and  h\> 
bc-,^t  man  lol](  iwt'd  him. 


1-lf. 


ROl'XI)  'IMII':   WORM)    l.\   SILICXC]'". 


'I'hc  curtain  oxer  llic  dour  lia\iii^'  l)ccn  tastcncd,  tlial 
behind  the  ])latlorni  was  Hfted.  and  the  bride,  who 
seemed  to  ha\e  l)cen  sitting'  on  the  otlier  side  of  the 
])latforni  all  the  time,  was  shifted  around  to  face  us. 
ller  eves  were  closed  and  she  seemed  almost  insensi- 
ble. A  -woman  behind  held  u])  her  head  with  both 
hands.  The  front  of  her  L;-own  L^iittered  with  jewels, 
and  on  her  head  blazed  and  s])arkle(l  a  beautiful  dia- 
mond crown,  while  a  mass  ol  tlowers  in  ,L;'old  and 
l(>wels  stood  u])  from  the  back  of  her  head.  al)o\e  the 
crown.  TIkw  sa}-  Chinese  brides  often  faint  under  the 
wciii'ht  ;)f  their  jewelry,  and  certainK-  this  ])o(tr  ,L;irl 
looked  as  if  she  were  onl\-  half  ali\e.  She  was  held 
up  by  the  women  around  her  while  three  old  women  in 
turn  repeated  the  process  with  her  hands  that  had  been 
L^one  throu_^'h  with  the  bridegroom.  Then  she  was 
shifted  round  attain,  the  ciu"tain  was  drawn,  and  the 
incense  and  candelabra  were  extinguished. 

We  thoui;iit  it  was  now  time  to  .^o  :  but  it  ai)i)eared 
that  the  ste])s  leading'  down  to  tlie  otUer  room  jiad 
been  taken  away,  as  part  of  the  ccremou}-.  so  we  had 
to  wait  until  thev  were  re])laced.  The  hostess,  in  the 
meantime,  appeared  with  trays  of  tea,  sea-weed  jelly 
and  delicious  sponge  cakes  tor  us.  which  we  ate,  with 
all  the  other  women  looking-  on  with  ^reat  iiUerest. 
After  we  had  eaten  we  shook  hands  with  the  hostess, 
and  climbed  over  the  cane-bottomed  chair  the}-  liad 
])laced  imder  the  door.  The  men  seemed  to  think  this 
])erformance  a  i^reat  joke,  for  they  all  doubled  u])  with 
lau,L;-hter  as  the\'  Avatched  us  descend.  We  went  1)\- 
trolle\-  and  jinrickisha  back  to  the  end  of  the  road  on 
So])hia  llill.  where  it  was  so  \ery  dark  that  we  had  to 
feel  (jur   way   aloni;'  lo  the   house,   where  a   s])ook   in   a 


Korxi)  'nil',  WORM)  IN  siij'.xci': 


147 


while  gown  let  us  in  at  a  trap  door  o\er  a  stairway 
which  led  uj)  from  the  piazza. 

They  called  us  \ery  early  in  the  morning',  and  we 
had  our  Chota  1  lazari  while  dressinj;',  so  as  to  be  ready 
to  start  on  the  rickisha  ride  to  the  liotanical  hardens 
at  se\en  o'clock.  This  is  another  garden  which  the 
nati\'es  ])roudl}-  term  "the  most  beautiful  in  the  world" 
—  and  it  cerlainK-  was  \er\-  hue. 

.\t  ele\en  o'clock  we  were  steaniiuL;'  out  ot  Simj.a- 
])ore's  beautiful  harbor  into  the  i;reen  water  of  the 
Straits  of  Malacca,  which  was  as  smooth  as  the  water 
of  a  lake.  'I'he  \'o\a;j,e  has  been  delightful.  it  was 
hot  at  hrst.  but  has  ^rown  colder  as  we  ha\e  journex'cd 
northward,  so  oiu"  winter  wra])s  ha\-e  been  unpacked, 
and  our  ])ith  hats,  which  we  all  dislike  most  heartil}-, 
ha\e  been  discarded.  We  shall  lea\e  the  steamer  at 
Moni^'  Koni;'  in  full  winter  array.  We  are  due  there 
to-morrow,  and  1  can  hardly  wait.  I  do  so  ho])e  we 
shall  Liet  in  before  banking"  hours  are  o\er.  .M  \-  letters 
ha\-e  been  accunudatiuL;'  at  the  International  liankinj.;' 
Company's  office  there  for  nearl\-  two  months,  and 
when  I  tell  _\i)U  that  1  ha\e  not  had  a  letter  from  home 
for  o\-er  a  month  }"ou  will  imderstand  m\-  impatience. 

1  am  sf)  sorry  lor  the  (>ra\s.  TIkw  were  in  such 
haste  to  ^et  to  the  bank  for  their  mail  when  we  reached 
Sini^apore  :  but  the  tender  was  so  late  that  we  did  not 
land  tintil  after  the  banks  were  closed.  (  )ne  of  the 
Sinii^apore  gentlemen  \-ohnUeered  to  l;o  to  the  cit\'  for 
them  the  first  tiling'  in  tlu'  morning",  which  he  did. — ■ 
and  then  forgot  all  about  _L;i\in^'  the  mail  to  them. 
-Molly,  who  came  out  on  the  last  boat,  said  that  as  it 
lelt  the'  dock  >In'  >a\\  him  M'anlicalK'  pull  letters  (lui 
ot  his  ])o(,d<et>  and  wax  <.•  tlnMii  :  but  it  was  tim  late,  and 
the   (irays   were  billerK    disapi)oiuted. 


148 


ROL'XD  TllK  WORIJJ   1 X   SILKXCK 


X  1 1 1 

( )n  l5oai"(l  llic  v^.  S.  Macedonia,  lloiip-  Koiu 


T  }{[':>  lias  been  such  an  intcreslinL;'  da}- 1  Jf  only 
you  could  ]ia\-e  1)cen  here  to  enjoy  it  willi  nie. 
Our  shi])  sailed  into  this  harbor,  —  riLj;iul_\-  called 
the  most  1)eautiful  in  the  world.  —  and  came  to  anchor 
at  dawn  this  mornini^".  The  ceasini^'  of  the  \-il)ration 
of  the  machinery  woke  me.  and  1  ^ot  u])  to  peep  out 
l)etwcen  the  slats  of  my  shuttered  window,  for  the 
wonder  of  \\-akin;4'  in  a  new  land  ne\-er  loses  its  fascina- 
tion for  me. 

'Jdie  hills  around  the  l)a\-  rise  so  near  the  water  that 
there  is  onlv  a  little  stri])  of  lex'el  i^round.  and  all  the 
l)uildin_^'s  face  toward  the  l)a\-,  and  ha\'e  rows  of  ])iazzas 
enclosed  in  arches  across  their  fronts  all  tlie  way  up  to 
the  roof.  'Phis  type  of  architectiu'c.  thev  sa_\'.  is  l)est 
adapted  to  the  peculiar  climate,  where  the  heat  is  so 
intense  in  sunnner.  and  all  the  breezes  come  from  tlie 
water:  the  surroundiui:^'  hills  cut  ott  all  the  land  breeze. 
I!ut  from  the  water  these  arched  recesses  hax'c  a  most 
])ecu]iar  look,  f^ix-ins^'  the  im])ressi()n  of  hundreds  ol 
\-acant  ex])ressi(jnless  eyes  staring;'  at  one. 

When  1  went  on  deck,  ready  to  i^"o  ashore,  the  wait- 
in^;'  i^-rou])  ])v  the  rail  had  an  oddly  unfamiliar  look. 
Stran^^X'.  what  a  difference  ones  ]iead-;^ear  makes  I 
After  so  man\'  months  of  seeing'  e\ery  f.uropcan  tace 
surmounted  bv  a  ])ith   liat,  the  disa])pearance  of  these 


R(U'XI)  r\\]\  \\(^RT.D   IX   S1L1':\'CE 


149 


liats  lu'li)cil  iiic  to  realize  thai  I  had  left  llic  impics 
l)ehinil.  (  )f  course  we  were  all  in  a  Iwilter  of  excite- 
ment o\er  landing'  in  '"  far  Callia_\"  "".  The  first  no\'elty 
that  strtick  us  on  reachini^"  the  broad  I'ra^a  or  sea-wall 
was  the  disco\er\-  that  llonjj,'  Ixoni;'  had  no  carriages 
of  any  sort,  sedan  chairs  and  jinrickishas  beinj;'  its  onlx' 
means  of  trans])ortation.  The  jinrickishas  are  by  lar 
the  most  delii;iitful  :  the  sedan  chairs  are  carried  by 
three  men,  who  swin<;-  the  chair  from  side  to  side  as 
they  trot  rai)idl\-  alonj^'.  and  scowl  menacini;ly  if  one 
does  not  sit  perfectly  still.  'Jdie  i^rcN-  stone  buildinL^s 
of  the  foreii^n  cit\'  look  \-er\-  bji^iish.  llon^"  Kon^'  is 
realh-  the  name  of  the  island,  and  X'ictoria  that  of  the 
cit\-  thereon.  II on^'  Kon^".  and  Kowloon.  on  the  other 
•-ide  of  the  l)a\'.  belong'  to  (ireat   llritain. 

We  were  just  in  time  to  see  the  ceremonies  incident 
to  the  landinL;'  of  the  jai)anese  I'rince  h'lishimi.  A 
troo])  (it  red-Coated  ICn^iish  soldiers  came  marching- 
down  to  the  landing'  ])lace.  where  the\'  o])ene(l  ranks 
to  form  a  lane,  in  the  midst  of  which  mo\-ed  their 
ofticers,  res])lendent  in  L^old  lace.  The  centre  of  all 
this  was  a  ])lain  little  brown  man.  whom  the\'  con- 
dttcted  to  a  sedan  chair,  in  which  he  was  borne  awaw 
The  soldiers  disa])])eared.  and  we  settled  down  to  the 
business  of  ^L^ettin^-  our  ba^'.^a^e  taken  to  the  Canadian 
I'acitic  (  )fHce.  Our  imijcdimenta  (lis])osed  of.  Mollw 
r.ud  and  I  went  off  to  Chinatown  sho|)])inL:'.  This 
Chinatown  does  not  look  a  bit  like  the  Chinatown  we 
--aw  at  San  hrancisco.  Its  streets  are  wide  and  clean. 
The  latticed  windows  and  i;a\-  red  and  .^old  wooden 
■-iL;ns  arc-  the  same,  but  the  store<  are  much  more  at- 
lracti\x',  e>]iecialK'  the  jeweller^"  with  their  ^old  and 
^il\c-r    tdi^ree     work,     wducU'rlul     i\or\     c-ai'\  in<4s,    and 


150 


ROUXD  THE  WORLD  TX  STLHXCR 


array     of    translucent     screen     jade.     Molly     says    the 
Chinese  are  as  fond  of  iade  as  \vc  are  of  diamonds, — 


and   it   is   almost   as   exi)ensi\-e.      Then   there   are    lasci- 
natins;-   i)laces    where    they    sell    drawn-work    and    em 


ROL'X"])  Till-:  WORLD  IX  siij':xci-: 


151 


I)roi(lcrc(l  blouses  and  rol)es.  The  Chinese  dry  floods 
stores  are  unlike  an\'  others.  The}'  ha\e  no  si<;n  of 
an\thini;'  for  sale,  —  nierelv  a  eounter.  and  some 
shelves,  whieh,  instead  of  liax'int;'  ])iles  of  i^oods.  show 
nothing"  hut  a  mass  of  brown  paper  streamers.  Ivieh 
])ieee  of  i^oods  is  kept  wrap])ed  in  sott  wliite  paper, 
with  an  outside  wrapjjini;'  of  brown,  and  a  deserii)tion 
tai^'  ot  tou^h  brown  pa])er  daui^iiui^'  from  one  end  o1 
the  bundle.  \'ou  would  ha\e  been  in  ecstasies  o\-er 
the  beautiftd  shinnneriuL;"  brocades,  soft  silks,  and 
trans])arent  ,^auzes  wliich  they  unwrapped  for  our  in- 
s])ection. 

The  trolley  ride  uj)  the  Peak,  which  we  took  later, 
after  luncheon  in  a  (lerman  restaiu'ant,  would  surely 
ha\e  delighted  \-ou.  It  was  a  thrillini;'  e.\])erience,  the 
inclined  railway  is  so  nearly  per])endicular.  lialf  way 
u]).  the  car  sto])ped  and  slip])ed  backward.  —  or  was  it 
my  excited  fancy?  —  btit  the  end  of  the  line  was 
reached  in  safety.  This  was  not  at  the  top  ot  the 
mountain,  howexer;  the  rest  of  the  ascent  lias  to  be 
made  b\-  sedan  chair.  The  \iew  is  sti])er]).  —  the  bay 
with  its  shi])])inj4'.  surrounded  b\-  mountains,  and,  be- 
low us,  the  hillside  covered  with  terraced  gardens  and 
hands(  )me  residences. 

To-ni^ht,  from  the  salon  window  beside  which  I  am 
sitting-,  the  illuminated  Teak,  the  brij^iit  lii^hts  of  the 
citv  and  the  shi])])in,!.;'  around  us,  make  an  e\en  more 
beautifid   ])iclure. 

(  )ur  i)art\-  is  to  transfer  to  the  Ja])anese  steanicr 
.X'ikkon  .Maru  earl\-  to-morrow,  and  sail  for  Manila  at 
eleven  o'clock,  while  the  .Mact'donia  leaves  lor  Shang- 
hai an  In  )ur  later. 


152  ROUXD  THE  WORLD   TX  SILEXCE 

Lope  dc  A'ag'a  St.,  Manila. 
Later. — 

The  little  Xikkon  Alaru  was  a  marvel  of  neatness. 
Everything  possible  had  been  provided  to  make  the 
staterooms  comfortable,  and  in  the  tiny  saloon,  with 
its  cut  velvet  pictures  and  strange  dwarf  plants,  enter- 
tainment in  the  shape  of  albums  of  Japanese  water- 
colors  had  been  provided,  and  I  promised  myself  some 
pleasant  hours  over  them.  I  kit  ^ve  were  hardly  out- 
side the  harbor  before  it  became  ^■erv  rough  :  the  fly- 
ing spray  beat  against  the  saloon  \\indows,  and  it  was 
necessary  for  our  chairs  to  be  lashed  to  the  rail.  I  am 
never  sea-sick,  but  once  ensconced  in  my  steamer  chair 
it  seemed  best  to  stay  there,  and  it  really  was  a  delight 
to  sit  there,  snugly  wrapped  up  from  the  flying  spray, 
and  watch  the  huge  waxx's  thundering  around  our  little 
boat,  wdiich  rode  them  like  a  bird.  The  second  day 
was  more  moderate,  and  at  noon,  forty-eighty  hours 
after  leaving  ]long  Kong,  the  Xikkon  slipped  ])ast 
Corregidor  Island  into  the  bay,  and  two  hours  later 
came  to  anchor  in  the  harbor.  liefore  this  1  had  gone 
down  to  the  cabin  to  do  the  repacking  for  my  sick 
roommmate  and  myself.  This  A\-as  no  joke  with  the 
trunks  sliding  around  with  exery  movement  of  the 
ship.  1  had  to  dodge  the  one  wdiile  1  held  on  to  the 
other  and  crammed  things  into  it.  However,  I  was 
alive  and  ready  to  sec  all  there  was  to  be  seen  when 
we  came  into  the  harbor;  but  there  is  nothing  to  be 
seen  of  Manila  from  a  distance,  the  buildings  and 
shores  lie  so  low.  vSix  of  our  beautiful  wliite  battle- 
shi])s  were  at  anchor  in  the  bay,  and  the  llutter  of  our 
glorious  flag  made  it  like  a  home  coming.  And  such 
a  xvelcome  our  shi])  had  I      llalf  tlie  ])o])nlation  of  Ma- 


ROl-.Xi:)  TIU'.  WORLD   IX  STLF.XCK 


153 


nila  must  liax'c  had  lonj^'  li»st  broiliers  or  sisters  on 
l)oar(l  :  such  a  crowd  of  stcant  hiunclics,  tilled  with 
black-e\ed  senors.  seiioritas,  and  beautiful  little  chil- 
(b'cn  Leathered  around  I  'rhe\-  were  all  laus^hin^'.  talk- 
in^',  sniokini;'  and  calling  to  their  triends  on  board.  It 
was  a  L;a_\'  scene:  and  some  ot  the  welcome  was  tor  tis. 
for  our  hosts  had  come  otit  with  a  launch  to  meet  us. 
So  54'reat  was  the  crowd  of  I)oats  slathered  around  that 
we  had  to  climl:)  o\er  the  decks  of  sexeral  to  reach  oiu" 
own. 

Manila  is  a  stirprise  to  me.  Instead  ol  the  slee])y 
Spanish  town  1  had  expectcch  here  is  a  btistliui^'  wide- 
awake cosmo])olitan  city,  with  electric  lights  and  elec- 
tric trolle\'.  American  ])olicemen  keep  order  on  tlie 
h'.scolta.  —  the  cit\'"s  llroadway.  —  where,  in  American 
>tores,  one  can  i^et  an  outfit  rii^'ht  from  "the  States'", 
or  next  door,  where  nothing;'  btit  v^])anish  is  s])oken.  one 
can  tr\-,  as  I  did.  to  la\'  in  a  su])i)l\-  of  note  i)a])er,  or  a 
Manila  hat.  Then  there  is  real  .\iuerican  ice  cream  to 
be  had  at  Ckirke's.  'Idle  (pieer  conxeyances  are  a 
ne\er-failin,i4'  sotu'ce  of  interest:  there  were  carts  with 
Solid  wooden  wheels  a  foot  in  thickness:  sleds  made  ol 
brandies  lashed  to^etlier.  drawn  b\-  the  slow-mo\in^' 
bullock:  the  natixe  cabs  here  take  the  torni  of  ])liaetons 
with  the  hood  and  seat  \er\-  far  l)ack,  a  wee  seat  in  tlie 
mi(hlle  of  tlie  front  serxin^'  for  the  dri\-er.  wliere  lie 
--its  witli  his  leet  out  in  the  cohl  world.  The  ])eople 
are  mo>t  interotin^'  ol  all:  lMli])iuo  .L;irls  in  bi^'  ])om])a- 
dours  and  ^au/.x'  \xaists.  crowds  of  >chool  boxs.  im- 
maculate in  \xliite  duck,  khaki-clad  soldier  box's  Ironi 
homc'.  the  l'"ili])ino  witli  liis  beloxed  ^ame  cock  in  Ins 
arm--.  an(l  the  nexer-eiidiuL^'  stream  (if  wtmien  with 
markelini;'   ba>kel>    u])(in    iheir    ln-ad>.      The    xarielx     in 


154 


RDUXI)  Till-:   WORTJ)   IX  .SIIJ-:XCE 


tliese  l)askcts  is  ^rcat.  and  I  am  ci  )ntinuall\-  twistint^' 
ni\'  neck  tnini;'  to  i^'cl  a  lull  \ic\v  nf  the  contents. — 
fish,  \-ei;'etables.  I^ananas,  some  bri^ht-lnied  goods 
thread,  worsted  and  cakes  are  ])art  of  the  collection  I 
saw  in  one  basket.  Another  source  of  wonder  is.  how 
they  mana^t^e  to  keej)  those  heel-less  sli])])ers  on  their 
bare  feet.  There  are  not  so  many  junior  Adams  and 
I'A'es  without  their  l\'^  lea\es  as  there  are  in  India  and 
Jeylon.  The  demure  little  .girls  are  the  \er\-  counter- 
)arts  of  their  mothers.  e\en  to  the  trained  skirt  and 
lair  coiled  on  the  ton  of  the  liead. 


hair  coiled  on  the  to])  of  the  liead. 

'Jdiis  is  just  at  the  end  of  what  they  call  the  "  cold 
season"',  and  Irom  sundown  until  ten  o'clock  in  the 
morning  the  air  is  deliglitftd.  After  that,  the  mercury 
goes  ti])  among  the  nineties.  .\t  tweK'e  all  the  stores 
close,  and  e\ery  one  goes  into  siesta  until  three  o'chjck, 
—  a  sur\i\al  of  the  old  S])anish  rule. 

(  )ur  kind  hosts  made  ti])  a  ])artv  to  tak'e  us  to  Caxdte. 
the  other  da}-.  We  crossed  the  ba\'  on  a  (io\ernment 
steam  launch.  ])assing  o\er  the  exact  s])ot  where 
Dewey  fought.  Jt  was  a  glorious  da\-.  and  the  sail 
o\-er  the  s])arkling  water  was  one  ne\er  to  l)e  forgot- 
ten.     l'"rom    time    to    time    rowboats    from    the    I'nited 


ten.  rrom  tmie  to  tune  rowboats  Irom  the  I  nited 
States  battleshi])s  hailed  us.  to  receix'c  or  delixer  mail. 
;)r  to  transler  the  officers  the\-  had  as  passengers. 
Admiral  I'.rownson  was  one  ol  these.  We  were  landed 
at  the  na\\-  yard,  where  the  officers"  houses,  with  their 
pretty  gardens,  looked  \'er\-  attracti\e.  The  machine 
sho])s  did  not  interest  me  as  much  as  the  outlook  from 
the  ram])arts,  to  get  to  which  1  co\'ered  m\self  with 
])rickl\-  btu^rs.  We  had  sticli  a  lot  of  fun  o\er  our 
])icnic  lunch,  which  started  with  a  bag  of  sandwiches, 
eaten  in  the  big  room  used  as  a  librar\    and  recreation 


R()r\I)  Till'.   WORLD    IX  SILl-XCK  155 

hall  by  the  soldiers.  Those  sandwiches  were  disap- 
pearinn'  ra])idly.  when  .Mr.  I  larper  rose  and  sH])ped  out. 
to  appear  aL;ain  shortly,  with  a  loaf  ot  bread  and  a  can 
of  llein/.  beans.  f(tllo\ve(l  bv  a  man  loaded  with  bottles 
of  aerated  water.  The  men  cnt  bread  and  o])ene(l  the 
btittles  with  their  jack  kni\es.  and  we  all  \(»ted  it  the 
I)est  Innch  we  liad  e\er  eaten.  The  sail  back  was  e\en 
more  deliijiutnl  than  tlie  one  cominu'. 


rm^^'^ 


A  ii(  )M  I-;  i.\  'III  !■:  I'll  I  I.I  rrixi-s 


\'esterda\-  we  had  a  little  tri])  into  the  interior;  sonu' 
of  ns  ,^oin,^'  to  I'asi^'.  starting'  early  in  tlie  morning",  by 
train.  (  )n  tlii>  railroad  the  first  and  second  class  car> 
are  like  tho>e  in  l-",nro])e.  and  the  third  cla>s  are  liki' 
onr>.  l'".\er\thinL;'  was  new.  Iresli,  and  clean,  and  the 
ride  throu^li  the  ])rett\-  conntr_\-  with  its  L^reeii  rice 
tields  and  ])ictnre^(|ne  xilla^es  was  all  to()  short. 

Thi>  wa>  loll(iwed  b\'  anotlier  ride  in  a  t  wo-w  jieeled 
nati\c  cart  ihronijli  Iti'antitnl  ciinnliw    lanes  and  streets 


156 


ROUXD  Till'.  WORLD   I X  SILFA'CK 


of  nipa  houses.  W'c  alii^hted  outside  au  old  ehvu-eli, 
whose  interior  \\as  as  like  as  ])ossil)le  to  the  old  ]\lis- 
sion  Chureh  we  ex])l()re(l  toi^ether  in  Southern  Cali- 
fornia. After  a  \\hile  1  wandered  out.  leax-ini;-  the  rest 
in  one  of  the  eha])els.  The  streets  \vere  eni])t\-.  and 
our  drix'ers  both  aslee]).  I  was  about  to  turn  baek. 
when   ]  eaui^ht  sii^'ht  of  one  r)f  the  ladies  of  our  ])arty 


XATIXI';   ClUi,    IN    I'ASIO.    1'.    I. 


on  the  u])stairs  x'erandah  of  the  house  ()])])osite,  and, 
thinking-  it  an  opjxjrtunitx'  to  see  the  inside  of  a  natixe 
house.  1  ealled  U)  ask  il  1  niii^ht  eonie  in.  (  )n  reeeix'iuL!,' 
an  ailinnatixe  re])ly,  1  found  nix'  wax'  throu,L;ii  a  eourt- 
yard  xxhere  a  slee])y  eat  halt  o])ene(l  an  exe,  and  some 
droxxs}-  ehiekens  sto])|)ed  seratehini;'  at  ni\-  ai)i)roaeh. 
In  the  bi^-  kitehen  at  the  head  of  the  stairs  the  ladx-  of 
the  house  greeted  \\\v  eordiallx,  offcTinu'  uie  cigarettes. 


ROL'Xl)  'IMll'.   WORLD    1  X   SlIJ'.XCl': 


157 


We  were  smiling'  aiiiic;i1)l\'  at  cacli  other,  when,  iroiii 
across  the  street,  the  call  came  for  nie  to  return  to  the 
church,  where  a  Catholic  i)riest  was  l)a])tizin^'  six  little 
l-"ili])inos.  h'.ach  tin^'  mortal  was  such  a  l)un<lle  of  lonu,- 
silk  robes  and  :_ia\-  eml)roi(ler\-  that  there  was  nothing' 
to  1)0  seen  of  the  habw  When  this  excitinj^-  e\ent  was 
o\er.  tlie  xilla^e  went  to  slee])  ai^ain.  and  we  set  out 
for  the  rixer  to  wait  for  the  steamer  i^oin^-  down  to 
Manila.  The  nati\e  ferr\-  liad  its  landing'  at  the  foot 
of  the  street,  and  tliere  was  a  steady  stream  of  i)eo])le 
coming'  and  L^oini;'.  All  the  women  carried  baskets  on 
their  heads,  and  when  the\'  ])aid  the  lerry  due.  the  man 
in  chari^e  made  them  take  down  their  l)askets  and  sho\\- 
him  the  contents  before  he  let  them  Li,'o.  'Idle  ferry 
boat  was  a  limL^'.  narrow  affair,  hollowed  otit  ol  a  l(\n'. 
in  wliich  the  ])eo])le  stood  up  in  a  row.  and  the  boat, 
instead  of  .s^oini^'  straii;ht  across,  made  a  wide  cur\e 
uj)  tlie  stream,  comini;-  down  at  the  ste])i)ini;'-stones  on 
the  other  side.  I  amused  myself  takin,^'  ])ictures  of  it. 
and  of  tlie  nati\es  sittin,^'  around  in  their  doorways, 
busih"  en^ai^ed  in  doini.^'  nothing",  hdnally  we  ^'ot  tired 
of  waiting'  for  the  steamer,  and  eml)arked  in  two  of  the 
])anca.  or  nati\e  boats,  that  were  lyin^'  at  the  bank. 
These  boats,  also,  were  liolldwed  out  of  1ol;s.  out- 
ri^'j^ers  ke])t  them  steadx".  band)oo  slats  co]u])osed  the 
tl'ior  (in  which  we  sat.  and  a  bamboo  matting'.  o\rr- 
Iiead.  ke])t  oil  the  sun.  I  was  enjoy iu^'  myselt  hui^idy 
wlien  the  v'ww  steamer  a])])eared  and  we  were  ])ulled 
alongside.  The  men  of  nur  i)arty  clind)ed  up,  and  the 
ri'^t  of  us  were  ])u]led  ami  ])uslieil  until  w c  reached  the 
deidN'.  And  what  a  >i,L;hl  tliat  deid<  was  1  lA  er\-  inch 
<>\  ^pace  wa--  crowded  witli  produce,  fai'min^;-  imi)]e- 
ineiil.^,    and    uali\i-->.    .'ind    a    >tretclier,    holding'    a    1)1  Kir 


15S  ROL'Xl)  'PHI':  WORLD    I\   SIIJ'.XCI', 

creature  coxcrcd  witl',  lcrril)lc  sores,  filled  the  middle 
of  the  deck.  There  seemed  to  be  no  room  lor  us:  hut 
the}-  wedded  u])  a  little  more,  and  even  found  a  couple 
of  chairs.  The  i^reen  l)anks  of  the  rixer  were  very 
pretty  :  here  and  there.  huf;'e  carabao  were  wallowiuL^' 
in  the  mud  near  the  shore.  Xear  the  cit\-  we  ])assed  a 
beautiful  residence,  facini^"  tlie  water.  Avith  ste])s  lead- 
int;"  down  from  its  spacious  sliady  t^rounds  t(_)  the 
water. 

I  wish  }ou  and  I  could  ex])lore  the  Tntranuu-os.  or 
walled  cit\-.  toL;ether.  It  is  the  lieart  of  Manila,  and 
all  the  old  churches  and  relics  of  the  daxs  of  v^panish 
rule  are  there.  Its  old  walls  are  sui.;"t4"esti\-e  of  mys- 
terious secret  chaml)ers.  undcrj^round  dungeons,  and 
all  sorts  of  n'ruesome  thing's.  Xo  one  knows  ^vhat 
may  ha\e  ha])pened  there.  Perhaps  the  Padres  do.  but 
the}'  tell  nothini;".  The  natives  do  not  care:  and  thus 
far  the  .\mericans  have  been  too  busy  \\ith  their  work 
of  makin,^'  the  cit\'  clean  and  healthful  to  del\e  into 
])ast  nnsteries:  l)Ut  the  time  will  come. 

The  modern  Church  of  the  Jesuits  on  the  Calle 
Arzobis])o  is  re])ute(l  to  be  the  most  beautiful  of 
Afanila's  man}-  churches.  Its  exterior  is  ])lainness  it- 
self, but  the  interior  is  full  of  ra\'ishin<4i\-  beautiful 
wood-car\-inj4' :  the  ceilini:^-  is  coxered  \vith  jjancdlin^'. 
columns  and  arches  are  wreathed  with  ,^arlands.  and 
the  ])td])it  is  coxered  with  excpiisite  work.  1  was  in 
ra])tures.  for  \'ou  know  how  interested   1  am  in  the  art. 

We  tried  to  ,^et  into  St.  AuLiUstine"s  Church,  the 
oldest  in  .Manila.  It  cox'crs  a  whole  cit\-  l)lock.  and  we 
(Irox'c  around  and  around  lookiuf^'  lor  an  o])en  door. 
.\  smiling'  I'adre  a])])eare(l  in  res])onse  to  our  rajjs  at 
(jne  of  the  doors,  but  he  merely  spread  out  his  arms  to 


ROIXI)  'IMll",   WORLD    1\   SI  l.l-'.Xn'.  l.V) 

bar  the  way.  sliiniLi'i;c(l  liis  sliouldcrs  and  sliook  his 
hca(h  when  wc  asked  tor  achnission.  l{\identl\  lie 
■■  had  no  h'.nt^iish  "".  We  then  tried  i^estures,  ])()intinL;- 
to  ourseh'es  and  to  tlic  interior.  l)Ut  he  onI\'  shook  his 
hea(k  and  ])kinte(l  himself  more  firml\-  aj^'ainsl  the 
door.  There  was  no  "  o])en  sesame"  for  ns.  and  we 
had  to  ui\'e  it  un. 


I'Ac'o  CI•;.\ll•■,•n•:R^'.    -  maxila 


Mamla  has  ont'  of  the  strani^est  i)laees  in  the  world 
in  whieh  to  hnry  its  dead.  (  )n  the  last  dax'  of  our  stay, 
a  friend  scMit  my  roommate  and  me  out  to  Taeo 
Cemetery  in  her  earria^c.  (  )n  entering-  a  ^att'wax'  in 
a  hi,L;h  white  eirtmlar  wall,  we  foinid  onrseKes  in  a 
rin,L;-like  encdosure  between  this  wall,  whieh  was  ei.i;hl 
leet  or  more  in  thicds'ness.  and  an  inner  wall.      Uetween 


1()()  ROUXI)  'I'll  I-:  WORLD    IX   SILICXCJC 

the  two  were  grass,  trees  and  a  walk.  The  inner  waH 
surronncLs  a  garden  with  a  small  chapel  in  the  midst, 
in  which  are  the  tombs  of  the  Ciovcrnors.  Generals, 
and  ['relates.  The  vaults  are  in  the  two  walls.  Avhich 
are  covered  from  top  to  bottom  on  the  inner  side  with 
inscriptions,  sculptures  and  flowers.  It  is  all  very 
carefully    kept,    and    there    were    a    number   of    people 


i'ACO  ClCMlC'I'lvRV.      •  MAXTI.A 


there,    busy    arranging    Iresh     llowers    and    replacing 
candles. 

Wdiile  we  Avere  eating  dinner,  on  the  last  night  of 
our  stay,  the  two  men  of  our  ])arty  returned,  dusty 
and  tra\el-worn.  from  their  two  days'  trij)  to  i)agui)an. 
The}-  were  full  of  enthusiasm,  dis])la_\ing  hats,  a  real 
bolo.  and  (_)ther  curiosities.     I   was  S(j  enxious  of  their 


ROUXI)  Till".  WORLD    IX   SILl'XCiC 


1()1 


]ia\in,q'  seen  more  of  the  interior  than  I  had  that  the_\- 
tried  to  console  me  1)\-  assuring  me  1  wouhl  ha\e  l)een 
l)Iack  and  l)]ne  from  head  to  foot  from  the  loni;'  ride. 

1  was  so  loth  to  lea\"e  Manila  that  1  would  have 
])ost])one(l  m\-  departiu'e  if  mv  courai;"c  had  been  e([ual 
to  the  transhipment  alone  at  11  out;'  Kon-^';  hut  it  could 
nut  stand  that  strain,  and  so  1  was  one  of  those  who 
saluted  the  v'^tars  and  Stripes  as  we  passed  under  the 
walls  ot  old  h'ort  Santiago  on  the  wav  down  the  ri\"er. 
A  new  htiildin^'.  on  to])  of  the  old  walls,  is  the  head- 
(|uarters  of  the  I'nited  States  Army  of  the  rhili])])ines. 
A  moment  later  the  lon^'  harbor  wall  built  1)\'  the 
Americans  to  kee])  back  the  tide.  —  which  o\er- 
tlowed  the  streets  in  the  old  (la\"s,  —  was  rounded, 
and  Manila  x'anished  from  our  sig'ht.  Another  minute 
and   I   was  climbinf;'  the  ladder  to  the   Rubi. 

It  was  interesting'  to  watch  the  se\en  hundred  and 
tifty-se\en  steera^'e  ])assen^'ers  come  on  board.  They 
were  all  Chinese.  Two  customs  ins])ectors  stood  at 
the  head  ot  the  ladder  and  i)ounced  on  them  as  the_\' 
came  on  board,  ran  incpiisitixe  tinkers  o\er  them  in 
search  for  concealed  wea])ons.  and  opened  the  um- 
brellas they  carried.  —  for  each  man  had  one.  — 
sometimes  a  whole  bundle  of  them.  Wasn't  that  odd." 
Well,  those  ins])ectors  shook  out  e\er\-  one  ot  those 
umbrellas,  opened  their  boxes  and  cnunted  their 
money,  and  thon_!.;h  the\-  were  lii^htnini^'-like  in  ra])id- 
ily.   UMthiuL;-  esca])ed   them. 

The  >hi])  was  to  sail  at  halt  jjust  nine,  but  did  not 
mo\t'  until  line  o'clock.  Then  be^an  the  most  woetul 
time  of  my  whuk'  trij).  I  ne\er  want  to  hear  of  that 
boat  a^ain.  The  Chinese  ""Ixixs"  were  cross:  -  no 
matter   how    ukl    a    C'hinese    steward    is.    he    is    dubbed 


162  ROL'XD  'PI  IF.  WORLD  IX  SILKXCl-: 

"  boy  '".  W'c  (lid  not  get  enough  to  eat.  Some  of  tlie 
folks  (lid  not  want  to  eat;  but  I  did.  The  deck  was 
too  wet  for  comfort,  and  in  the  saloon  it  was  im])(_)s- 
sible  to  keep  out  of  a  draught,  and  oh.  the  "  stunts  " 
that  boat  did  perform!  We  had  to  hold  on  somewhere 
all  the  time,  and  then,  after  all  our  efforts  to  kec]) 
warm,  wdiat  did  the  steward  do  1)ut  serve  ice  cream 
every  morning  at  eleven  o'clock,  instead  of  the  good 
hot  broth  for  which  e\cn  the  sick  ones  longed.  The 
very  sight  of  that  ice  cream  was  enough  to  freeze  the 
marrow  of  one's  s])inal  column.  It  was  so  late  at  night 
when  the  Rubi  got  into  llong  Kong  bay  that  we  could 
not  go  ashore  until  morning.  Two  of  the  ])artv  had 
been  dreadfully  sea-sick  all  the  wa}'  from  Manila;  and 
altogether  we  were  a  most  forlorn-looking  lot  when  we 
landed. 


ROUXI)  Till':  WORIJ)   l\   SILI'IXCK 


163 


Xl\' 

The  I',  and  ().  S.  vS.  Malta. 

M^'  last  letter  had  to  eome  to  an  abrupt  end: 
and  I  am  writini^'  now  from  the  steamer  on 
m\  way  to  Shan<;hai.  ]  ha\e  slept  on  land 
only  sexen  times  since  we  left  Penani^'.  so  }-ou  see  I 
am  luuini;'  some  experience  of  a  sea-farini;'  life.  The 
Malta  is  almost  as  comfortalde  as  the  Macedonia  was. 
and  the  food  and  attendance  are  of  the  best.  iUit 
l)efore  1  i.;'o  on.  I  must  tell  }()u  of  the  tri])  to  Canton 
we  took  on  reaching'  J  Ion"'  Kon^'  on  the  return  fr(^m 
Manila.  The  Feng'shaw,  the  Chinese  ri\cr-l)oat  on 
which  we  left  lloni^'  Kon<;"  at  nii^ht  for  Canton,  was 
\ery  clean  and  well  arran<;"ed,  with  lart^e  staterooms, 
almost  like  those  on  the  Hudson  Ri\-er  ni<;"ht -boats, 
and  jinishecl  the  ninety  miles  between  lloni;"  Konj.;'  and 
Canton  during'  the  nis^iit.  W  hen  1  awoke,  we  were  at 
anchor  in  the  middle  of  the  ri\-er,  and  surrounded  by 
a  swarm  of  the  most  curious  boats  1  had  e\-er  seen. 
We  had  such  a  "  swell  "'  ^uide  that  day  :  —  a  real 
Chinese  gentleman  in  a  lon;^"  black  broadcloth  robe, 
and  black  satin  shoes  and  ca])  I  Me  s])oke  iCn^lish 
well,  and  was  dignity  itself.  The  neatest  of  the  Sam- 
jtans  cr<  i\\  diuL;'  around  came  u])  to  the  i;ani^\\ay  at  his 
call,  and  1  was  .^lad  to  ha\e  a  chance  to  see  the  inside 
of  oue  of  the  boats  in  which  thousands  ol  C'liinest' 
s])end  their  li\es,  —  some  ol  them  ue\er  L^oinj^"  on 
>hore  at  all.  We  crawled  under  the  bamboo  rooi  iu 
the    middle    of    the    oue    we    iusi)ected.    and    found    that 


164 


kOUXl)  'iMlli   WORLD    1\   SlLlvXClC 


an  idol  and  some  ])icUircs  decorated  llie  wall.  Women, 
children,  cats,  dos^s.  fowls  and  cookini;'  a])])aratus  filled 
the  s])aee  at  the  ends.  I'ater  familias  exidentlv  li\'es 
ashore,  for  the  boat  was  manaj^ed  1)\'  a  woman,  and  an 
attracti\'e  ])ictnre  she  made,  with  her  satin-smooth 
black  hair,  filled  with  a  brij^iit  array  of  hair])ins.  her 
immaculate]}'  clean,  if  faded,  blue  linen  jacket  and 
trousers,  and  bare  feet.  She  was  the  i)ersonification 
of  i.;"race,  as  she  stood  on  the  swayini^'  i)lank  in  the 
middle  of  the  boat  and  worked  the  sini^ie  lon^'  oar 
projecting-  from  the  stern. 

We  landed  at  a  stairwa\-  in  a  broad  stone  wall,  in 
the  Shameen.  or  foreii^n  settlement.  The  walk  aloni^' 
the  rix'cr  is  \-ery  ])rett_\-.  It  is  bordered  bv  fine  stone 
residences  with  trees  and  i^'ardens.  After  a  short  walk 
throuL^ii  the  "  forei^^n  ""  settlement,  we  crossed  a  ])rid_^'e 
o\er  a  canal,  and  were  in  the  Chinese  city,  ilere  our 
L^'uide  had  sedan  cliairs  in  readiness,  and  our  (la\-  in 
the  maze  of  Canton's  streets  be,^an. 

The  first  ])lacL  we  xisited  was  the  hall  of  fixe 
hundred  Cenii,  where  fi\e  hundred  figures  re])resent 
the  disciples  of  liuddha.  Thex-  are  (piaint  and  amus- 
ing'. All  arc  made  of  i)laster.  made  to  rei)resent  i^'ill 
l)ronze,  and  each  one  is  shai)e(l  to  e.\])ress  the  idea 
which  it  eml)o(lies.  h'or  exam])]e  :  one  has  a  i^reat 
many  e_\es,  to  si!j,-nify  that  he  could  see  ex'crxlhinj^' ; 
another,  with  extra  lon^^  arms,  could  reach  anxwhere. 
We  all  shouted  o\er  the  figure,  dressed  in  so-called 
loreiL;n  "'  clothes,  that  was  introduced  to  us  as  .Marco 
i'olo,  the  _u,'reat  traveller.  These  fii^'ures  are  arrant^ed 
on  sheKc's  around  the  walls,  and  on  the  tables  which 
filled  up  nearly  all  the  si)ace  in  the  middle  of  the  room. 
In    the    \er\-    centre   was    a    sort   of    a    i)aL.'(jda    with    a 


R(U'XD  TIIK  WORLD  I X  SILKXCl 


165 


di\'iiiity  on  each  side,     lieside  this  sat  a  priest  l)eatin!4' 
a  drum,  \vhile  another  wanted  arounch  saxini^'  ])ra}ers. 

'idle  Doctor  'reni])le  is  near  this  had.  and  is  de(H- 
cated  to  the  j^od  of  niethcine.  There  are  sixty  idols 
there,  and  one  ])rays  lor  reco\er\'  l)elore  the  idol  whose 
nnnd)er  corres])onds  with  his  own  a^e.  ll  he  be  o\er 
sixty  he  must  bei^^in  to  count  aj^ain.  Xumhered  ])re- 
scri])tious   are    sold    at    this    tem])le.   and    the    would-be 


A  coiKT  ()i'  •i'iii-;  Axci-.s'i'oi;  ■i'i':.\i  I'l.i;.    (.'ax'i'()X 


])tu"cha>er  selects  a  mun])er  at  random  from  a  \ase, 
and  the  ])rescrii)tioii  corres])ondintj,'  with  this  nund)er 
is  then  i;i\(.-n  him.  'Idle  .L^lorx'  of  the  ])lace  is  some 
wonderlul  car\  ini^s  cut  out  of  brick,  and  there  is  a 
Collection  ol  banner>  and  standards  thai  are  t-arried 
in   the  ])ri  n-e-->i(in   w  ln-n  the  idul   i>  taken  muI. 

Our  Muide   w  a>  nn-rcilul.  and  tonk  n>  to  oid\-   two  ol 


166 


ROUXD  THK  ^^■ORLD  TX  STLEXCR 


the  hundred  and  twenty-four  of  Canton's  temples,  — 
the  one  just  described,  and  the  Ancestor  Temple, 
where  they  showed  us  a  hui^e  board  closely  covered 
with  little  wooden  ancestral  tablets.  ]  su])pose  they 
dated  that  family  back  to  Xoah  I  There  was  some 
Li'ood   carx-inu"   in    the   courtvard.    where   a    well-dressed 


IX   Till-;   .\.\C1'".ST()R   TI'^M  I'M-;.      CAX'I'oX 


lady  was  walking"  around  with  her  child  and  nurse. 
The  bab_\-  had  on  such  a  funny  ca]).  with  little  fu/./.y 
ears  standin<4"  off  on  the  side,  just  like  the  ears  on  a 
cat.  I  was  smitten  with  loni^in^'  to  ^et  a  i)icture  ot 
the  i^rou])  ;  but  the  mother  was  so  haudsomcK-  dressed 
that  I  feared  she  mii^iu  feel  insulted  if  I  offered  her 
money.  I  need  ha\e  had  no  (|ualms  :  tor  on  showing' 
her  the  camera  and   a   coin,   she   shook   her  head,   indi- 


ROl"Xn  'IMIK  WORLD   IX   SILFA'CR 


167 


catiiii;'  that  there  must  l)e  two  coins  if  tlie  nurse  and 
l)al)y  were  included  I 

Tlie  Flowery  I'a^oda  is  nine  stories  liii;ii,  and  there 
arc  no  flowers  an\-\\herc  near  it.  It  is  only  a  tall  white 
tower,  at  which  we  i;a/.ed  from  a  coiu'tyard  at  its 
base. 

The   "  Cit\-    of   the    Dead  '"    was    e\-en    more    stransje 


oii<.  c.riDi-;  i.\  'nil".  c\y\  oi-  Tin-;  di-.ad.    t'.wrox 


than  the  cemetery  at  Manila.  —  hcin^'  neither  more 
nor  less  than  streets  of  tiny  one-roomed  houses,  all 
open  in  Iront.  The  room  was  dixided  into  two  coni- 
Ijartmenls  h\-  a  red  curtain,  which  hides  the  hu^e 
hlack  hn-(|uer  coffin.  The>e  houses  rent  for  iwenty- 
fi\e  dollar^  for  ihe  fii'>l  three  months:  after  thai  the 
rate  i>  rt-(luced.  Tea.  cake>.  fruil,  and  the  faxnrite 
fi "  )d   I  if  tile   <U-ad,   renewed   each    morning',  are   laid   oul 


1^'«  ROUXD  THK  WORLD  IX  STLKXCE 


ROUXD  TIIF.   WORLD   IX  SILKXCE  169 

oil  a  table  in  fr^nt  of  the  eiirtain.  and  a  wash-stand 
with  water  and  towels  occu])ies  one  corner.  Life- 
sized  ])a])ier-niache  servants  are  in  readiness  to  wait 
on  the  spirit,  antl  strint^s  of  paper  prayers  hang'  on  the 
walls.  \\'e  were  shown  one  coffin  that  had  been  there 
tor  a  hundred  years.  This  little  picture  shows  our 
.guide  on  a  street  in  this  City  of  the   Dead. 

J  clind)ed  a  fiiglit  of  steps  to  see  the  Water  Clock. 
It  is  fi\e  hundred  }ears  old.  and  consists  of  sexeral 
copper  vessels  placed  one  above  another  on  platforms. 
A  fioat  with  an  indicator  rises  in  the  lowest  vessel  as 
the  water  tiows  in,  and  thus  shows  the  time. 

The  ascent  to  the  h'ive-Storied  Pagoda  is  very  long 
and  steep.  We  went  ))art  way  up  t)n  foot,  and  were 
glad  to  ha\-e  the  sedan  chairs  take  us  the  rest  of  the 
wa_\-.  .\rri\ed  at  the  door,  our  guide  said  we  would 
better  go  u])  to  the  Tem[)le  on  the  top  floor  for  our 
luncheon,  as  the  tea  and  cakes  they  had  for  sale  u]) 
there  were  \er\-  good.  There  were  four  long  tlights 
to  be  clind)e(l.  and  thev  were  more  difficult  to  mount 
than  any  I  had  e\-er  seen  before.  They  do  not  know 
liow  to  build  stairwavs  in  the  Iv'ist  :  the  ste])s  are  made 
M)  high  and  narrow.  ( )in"  tea  and  cakes  were  ser\ed 
on  a  table  at  the  foot  of  the  altar,  where  we  ate.  with 
idols  all  around  us.  ]*'rom  the  outside  verandah  the 
\aniens  of  the  Co\'ernor  and  Tartar  Ceneral  were 
])oimed  out. 

It  i>  the  streets  that  make  Canton  the  most  curious 
city  in  the  world.  The\-  are  so  narrow  that  1  was  sure 
I  could  touch  the  walls  on  either  side  as  I  was  carried 
al'Mig  in  in\-  >edan  chair:  but  e\er\-  little  mii\cment  i  m 
my  part  drew  ^ncli  fu'rce  scowls  from  m\-  ihixx-  beart-r^ 
that   I  L:a\e  ui)  the  attemitt  to  see  Imw    far  I  i-ould  reach. 


170 


ROUXD  TTIR  WOr^iLD  TX  STLKXCE 


and  spent  the  day  wonderins^'  what  would  happen  if 
our  ])rocession  of  sedan  ehairs  were  to  meet  another 
i)roeession   cominy"  from   the  other  (Hrection.      We   (hd 


AT  ■nil':  I'ooT  oi"  •riiK  fini'.-S'i'ouji;!)  i'acoda.    caxtox 


meet  a  wedchni;-  ])r()cession,  'j;i\.y  witli  l)anners  and  a 
red  l)ridal  ear.  and  in  order  to  see  it  we  let!  the  ehairs 
and  minified  witli  tlie  erowch  hut,  except  lor  tlie  hricUil 
ear,  tlie  procession   was  all  i  m    toot. 


ROUXD  THE  WORLD  IX  SILEXCE  171 

In  some  of  the  streets  the  house  roofs  nearly  met 
overhead,  and  everywhere  the  space  above  the  street 
was  filled  with  hut^e  red  and  i^old  sii^ns.  I  ha\e  a 
])ermanent  twist  in  my  neck,  contracted  in  my  effort~^ 
to  take  in  all  the  strani^e  sit^hts.  In  one  street  there 
was  nothing-  but  clocks.  —  American  clocks,  too. 
Another  street  was  i^iven  o\-er  to  fruit,  vci^etables  and 
nuts,  in  greatest  variety,  all  clean  and  nicely  arranged. 
Then  came  a  region  full  of  butchers"  shops.  Avhere 
liaKed  fowls  and  pigs,  roasted,  or  bleached  whole  to 
an  unearthly  whiteness,  hung  mingled  with  dried 
■■  rats  ""  and  entrails  of  animals.  There  were  heaps  of 
dried  fish,  tubs  of  water  filled  with  living  fish  frc^m 
which  slices  had  been  cut,  and  barrels  of  curious  little 
brown  things,  no  doubt  the  dried  cockroaches  which 
they  say  the  Chinese  call  "'  vellv  good  "". 

We  met  many  men  with  tubs  of  water  hanging  from 
a  ])()le  carried  across  the  shoulder.  T  was  so  thankful 
1  was  not  on  foot:  and  hea\e(l  a  great  sigh  of  thank- 
fulness when  we  left  these  horrors  and  came  to  the 
streets  of  the  furniture  makers,  where  there  was  an 
endless  array  of  beautiful  things  made  of  ebony, 
carxed,  or  inlaid  with  ])earl.  Crowds  of  peo])le.  every- 
where, fiattened  themsehes  against  the  wall  as  we 
came  along.  1  grew  \-ery  weary  of  the  yellow  faces 
staring  so  boldK-  and  curiously,  and  began  to  under- 
stand what  1  had  heard  of  the  hatred  of  the  Chinese 
for  the  foreigner.  All  d'dv  the  men  scowled  at  us 
menacingly:  the  women  seemed  to  take  a  great  lancy 
to  something  on  my  hat,  they  ])ointed  at  it  e\erywhere 
I  went.  1  sup])ose  I  shall  ne\er  know  what  it  was 
that  attracted  them,  —  those  black  feathers,  or  the 
uilt   buckle? 


172  ROUXD  THK  WORLD  TX  SILKXCE 

I  wish  you  could  lia\-e  i^'onc  with  us  into  the  Httle 
(lark  den  where  a  patient  creature  was  wea\'in<;'  won- 
derful silk  l)r()cade.  and  int(j  the  silk  and  linen  stores, 
where  our  chairs  stojiped  before  a  barred  door  in  a 
blank  stone  wall.  The  wooden  bars  tlew  back  as  some 
one  inside  ])ul]e(l  the  striuL^'  of  some  curious  nieclian- 
ism,  and  we  were  conducted  into  a  room,  lighted  from 
the  ceiling",  and  adorned  with  ])otted  plants.  Around 
the  ^valls  were  i)resses.  from  which  the  silks  and  em- 
broideries \vere  taken.  unwra])])ed  from  the  white 
])a]K'r  in  which  they  were  kept,  and  spread  out  on  a 
table  for  our  ins])ection.  We  found,  howexer,  that 
I  long"  Koni4'  was  a  Ijetter  ])lace  for  shop])ini4':  haxin^;," 
a  t^reater  \-ariety  at  more  reasonable  prices.  As  we 
emerg'ed  from  the  last  store,  a  i)rocession  was  seen 
ai)])r()achini4',  and  our  t4'uide  informed  us  the  Tartar 
(icneral  was  cominj.^'.  lie  had  such  a  shabb\-  retinue  I 
llalf  a  dozen  soldiers  led  the  way:  then  came  a  man 
on  a  lorlorn  old  nai;'.  followed  l)v  the  i^'reat  man  liim- 
selt  in  a  close  sedan  chair;  then  more  soldiers;  an<l 
such  unmartial-lookin;^'  creatures  as  those  soldiers 
were  J  ne\'er  saw.  If  it  had  not  ])een  for  their  uniforms 
I  should  ha\e  taken  them  for  a  rabble.  This  finishecl 
our  day,  and  we  went  back  to  the  Fen^"sha\v.  The 
next  morniui^'  saw  us  in  Ilonj^"  Konj^'  at^'ain.  re\-ellini4-  in 
the  loxely  llotanical  (rarden  on  the  hill,  where  the 
flower  beds  are  full  of  the  dear  home  flowers.  ])ansies. 
,L^'eraniums.  and  candytuft.  Thick-lea\"e(l  rubber  trees 
shaded  the  winding-  walks  from  which  there  were 
loxely  x'iexxs  of  the  bay.  Then  followed  a  iinricki>ha 
ride  to  lla])i)y  X'alley,  xxhere  there  is  a  race  course, 
i^'olf  links,  and  cricket  grounds.  The  surrounding'  hill- 
si(k-s  are  co\  ered  with  cemeteries,  —    I'arsee,   .\loham- 


ROrXI)  'nil".  WORLD   IX   SILI'.XCIC  173 

niedan.    Roman   Catholic,   and    I'roteslanl.  —  rather   a 
sad  setting-  that   for  recreatitin  grounds! 

J  loni;'  Kong's  tlowcr  market  was  a  joy,  —  a  riot  of 
color  and  fragrance  heaped  on  the  paxement  just 
helow  the  corkscrew  stairwa}'  that  led  uf)  to  our  hotel 
door.  I  carried  away  an  armful  of  mignonette,  for 
which   the\-  asked  onl\-  ti\-e  cents  I      Late  in  the  after- 


•iiii-:  i"i,o\\'i-:r  MAi^Ki-yr.    iioxc,  koxc, 

noon  wc  came  on  board  the  Malta.  It  has  been  grow- 
ing colder  as  we  get  farther  north,  and  all  the  wa\-  it 
ha>  been  loggy.  I  was  writing  in  the  saloon,  night 
belore  la>t.  when  a  (pieer  buni])ing  and  grating  began, 
and  the  .Malta  ceased  to  mo\e.  We  had  reached  the 
mouth  of  the  W  hangixia  or  \\'o()>ung  ri\er.  and  our 
car"elul  cajuain  had  amdiored.  on  acc(ium  of  tlu'  thick 
log.      .\--    it    did    not    lift    until    the    next    afternoon,    we 


174  ROUXD  THE  WORLD   IX  SlLlCXCl-: 

(lid  not  ni()\e  until  then,  when  we  came  up  the  river 
with  the  tide,  to  anchor  attain  about  ten  o'clock.  The 
Malta  does  not  i^o  any  further  up  the  ri\-er.  and  we 
are  to  be  taken  oti"  by  another  boat  some  time  this 
morninp'. 


ROLXI)  'IMII'.   WORLD    1 X   SILKXCI' 


X\ 


l'\)()ch()\v 


AJ<"ri"'J\  waitiii,^'  iin]);ilieiitl\-  on  the  Malta,  iinlil 
tlie  middle  of  ihc  mornini^',  a  small  steamer 
came  down  from  Shan_i;liai  for  us.  and  after  a 
two  hours'  sail  u])  the  ri\er  we  were  landed  at  the 
(|uay.  The  wind  was  strong'  and  bitterly  cold,  and 
the  banks  of  the  deserted  ri\er  not  attractive,  so  e\ery 
one  crowded  into  the  cabin.  Mollv's  brother  met  us 
at  the  (|uay  and  I  was  i^'lad  to  leave  him  to  i)tit  my 
bai^'^^ai^e  throui^h  the  custom  house,  and  hurrv  alon^' 
to  the  warm  comfortable  (juarters  alreadv  en<4'a,L;ed  at 
a  ])leasant  ])()ardin^'  house.  It  seemed  to  me  that  I  had 
ne\er  felt  the  cold  so  much  before,  but  that  was  to  be 
ex])ected.  comin;.;'  from  the  tro])ics. 

v^hani^iiai  was  so  raw  and  cold  that  we  were  all 
homesick,  and  almost  willini^'  to  take  the  first  steamer 
for  America.  The  "  folks"  were  all  tired,  and  did  not 
leel  like  i;"oin^"  out  in  the  cold  unless  the\'  had  to  ^'o 
sho])])ini4\  TIkw  would  not  let  me  j^'o  alone,  so  I  saw 
\erv  little  ol  v'^han^hai  ])etore  coming'  down  here.  Hut 
as   1  am  to  return,  there  is  time  enoii,^h  for  thai  later. 

The  exeninj^'  we  started  lor  Foochow  a  gentle  rain 
was  lading',  and  it  had  been  raining'  all  <la\-.  As  my 
jinrickisha  man  trotted  alon^'  through  the  wet  streets 
with  me  on  the  wa\-  t(»  the  ri\er-l)()at .  1  was  alternately 
tilled  with  ])]t'asure  at  the  ])ict ures(|ue  bits  I  cau^lit  as 
I  went  aloiiL;'  and  with  fear  lest  I  lose  the  rest  of  tlie 
])arty   in   the  dark.      The   swin^inL;'  jjaper   lanleiMis  car- 


176  ROUXD  THE  WORLD   IX  SILEXCE 

ried  l)y  the  coolies  lent  s])ots  of  ligiit  and  color  to  the 
little  puddles  on  the  pavement,  and  turned  ni}'  coolie's 
naked,  swiftly-moving'  limbs  to  bronze.  'I'here  Avere 
four  in  our  ])art^'  this  time.  —  Mrs.  and  Miss  Gray. 
Dr.  \'an.  and  myself.  A\'e  had  a  good  deal  of  trouble 
to  find  the  right  boat.  The  coolies.  e\-i(lently  thinking- 
any  boat  would  do.  took  us  wrong  twice  :  and  at  last, 
after  much  wandering  l:)ack  and  forth  on  the  ri\er 
bank.  \ve  left  our  jinrickishas  and  followed  Dr.  \'an 
and  the  bobbing  paper  lanterns  across  a  bridge  into 
the  tin}-  cal)in  of  the  little  Chinese  steamer,  half  freight 
and  half  passenger  l)oat.  The  staterooms  were  the 
size  of  ])ill  boxes,  and  the  berths  so  low  that  1  raised 
several  new  lumps  on  my  cranium.  The  dining  table 
filled  up  most  of  the  saloon,  where  an  upholstered  seat 
at  one  end  was  all  the  luxury  the  steamer  afforded. 
Onlv  coast  steamers,  or  those  de\-oted  mainl\-  to  the 
carrying-  of  freight.  ])ly  between  Shanghai  and  Foo- 
chow.  and  thev  ha\'e  no  fixed  date  for  their  sailings. 
Wdien  he  is  ready  to  start,  the  captain  sends  out  word 
to  waiting  ])assengers  ;  and  even  then  he  makes  what 
changes  he  sees  fit.  no  matter  if  the  ])asseng-ers  are 
alreadv  on  board.  Mr.  ISrown  spent  a  da\-  and  night 
on  board  before  his  l)oat  even  had  its  anchor  u]).  We. 
ho^vever.  were  m()re  fortunate,  as  we  ^\•ent  on  board 
in  the  evening-  and  sailed  son-ie  time  during  the  night. 
])roceeding  at  the  rate  of  ten  miles  an  hour  in  a  calm 
sea.  Shut  uj)  in  the  Unv  cabin,  with  nothing  to  d<i 
but  read,  the  three  dax's  seemed  almost  interminable 
to  us.  Still  we  were  not  exactly  joyful  to  have  the 
"  bov '"  wake  us  at  half  past  six  on  the  fourth  morn- 
ing, to  be  reach-  for  an  eight  o'clock  breakfast,  just  as 
the  boat  came  to  an  anchor.     After  a  while  a  sailboat 


ROUXI)  'IMll'.  WORLD   IX   SIIJ^XCE  177 

came  »nit  from  the  \-illas;'e  on  the  shore,  with  two 
laches  and  a  i;entleman  on  board  for  Avhom  we  had 
l)rou!^'ht  mail.  'J'he  ladies  retnrned  to  the  shore,  but 
Mr.   Jlinman  stayed  to  accompany  us  up  to  the  city. 

Foochow  is  on  the  ]\Iin  river,  thirty  miles  from  the 
sea.  and  the  steamers  sto])  when  within  ten  miles  of 
the  city.  'Jdie  Government  so  fears  the  foreii^n  war- 
ships that  it  is  miwilling'  to  deepen  the  river  for  the 
use  of  lari^e  vessels,  and  the  ten  miles  to  the  cit}'  are 
accomplished  by  sail  or  rowboat.  We  went  up  in  a 
steam  launch,  and  1  sat  on  the  eni;ine  ]datform, 
bundled  in  wrappins^'s,  durinj^'  the  two  hours"  sail  up 
the  Chinese  Rhine.  On  comini^'  near  the  city  we  were 
so  surrounded  by  a  swarm  of  junks  that  one  could 
scarcely  see  a  foot  of  clear  water  ahead.  There  were 
hundreds.  — ■  n(~).  thousands  of  them,  all  filled  with 
women  and  children.  Those  near  us  looked  \-er\'  clean 
and  attracti\-e.  The  Foochow  boat  -women  have  a  dis- 
tincti\-e  st}le  of  hair-dressing'.  'Jdie  coil  at  the  back 
ends  in  a  cone  tip])e(l  Avith  a  brass  ornament,  and  the 
st_\de  of  the  hair])ins  is  startlinL;'  to  a  stranger.  The}- 
wear  three  broad  sil\-er  blades,  shaped  like  dinner 
kni\-es.  standing  far  out  on  each  side  of  the  head. 
Many  of  the  women  wear  an  embroidered  band  around 
the  hair,  but  this  seemed  to  be  conhned  to  the  elderl\- 
ladies.  lluge  sil\-er  ho()])s  were  the  fax'orite  fashion 
in  ear-rings. 

I'nshing  its  wax-  slowly  ahead,  our  boat  at  last 
worked  its  \va\'  u])  to  the  wharl.  ( )n  landing,  we  were 
])Ut  into  sedan  chairs,  and  kind  1  )r.  liinman  saw  us  all 
safeh'  to  our  ])Iaces  ol  abode.  An  old  college  Iriend 
of  mine  is  ni\'  hostess:  and  with  tw()  lo\cl\'  r()oms  all 
to  nuhcli.  it  lias  been  ureal   fun  to  uni)ack  and  arranue 


17.S  R()L"\I)  'IMllC   WORIJ)    i\   SlUvXClC 

my  thinL;'s.  This  is  sucli  a  ])rett_\'  house  with  its  wide 
\"eran(lahs.  decorated  with  hu_i;'e  ferns  in  pots:  the 
rooms  are  !arij;'e  and  lofty,  and  there  is  a  lox'el}-  t^arden. 

I  ha\-e  a  beautiful  vie\v  from  the  four  windows  of 
my  outside  room.  The}-  are  all  in  a  row,  and  1  lo\e  to 
stand  there  and  watch  the  little  L;'irls  of  the  Mission 
School  ])la}-  ball  down  below.  They  do  not  throw  tlu' 
ball  back  and  forth  as  we  do,  but  try  to  see  how  loni^' 
they  can  keep  it  boundini;'  up  and  down,  whirling;' 
round  and  round  on  their  little  trousered  leti's.  1)()unc- 
in^-  it  as  the}-  i^o.  'J'hen.  when  I  tire  of  the  children, 
there  is  the  interest  of  watchin;.;-  the  tra\-ellers  pickini^- 
their  way  alont;'  the  l)anks  between  the  distant  fields. 
'Inhere  are  no  roads  in  China. 

S])eakini;'  of  children,  tlie  little  tots  in  the  kinder- 
i^'arten  are  the  "  cutest  "",  funniest  little  things  in  their 
'j;Ry  flowered  tunics  and  trousers,  —  and  so  fat  the}' 
could  hardl}-  wabble  throui^h  the  ,^"ames. 

1  hax'e  l)een  taken  to  xdsit  a  class  of  the  lar;.^e  ,^'irls, 
to  tell  them  something;'  about  how  the  deaf  are  tauL^lit. 
The}-  were  so  bri^iit  and  interested.  The  Chinese  are 
just  awakenini.;'  to  the  knowledge  that  the  deaf  can  be 
taut>'ht.  and  that  their  affliction  is  not  the  work  of  e\il 
spirits.  Amon^'  the  milli(ms  of  China's  swarmins^' 
p()])ulation  there  must  be  a  i;reat  man\-  deaf  ])eoi)le. 
Talk  of  a  crowd  1  ^'ou  folks  back  home  can  ha\e  no 
idea  of  the  ])eo])le  liere.  There's  no  t^'ettiuij,"  awa\'  from 
them,  exerywliere  one  .L^'oes  the  \-er\-  air  seems  full  ol 
eyes.  .\nd  not  onl\-  does  the  land  teem  with  the  lixin^ 
it  is  ox'crrun  with  tokens  of  those  who  ha\e  li\e( 
Craxes  co\-er  the  land  e\-er}\\  here,  with  their  little 
brick   \\alls   and    tile   roots.      The   brown    i)ai)er   mone} 


Korxn  'I'll!'.  woRij)  IX  sii,i':.\ci". 


17') 


])lcicc(l  111)011  lliciii  for  ihc  use  of  tlie  dead  is  kept  coii- 
staiitl}'  renewed. 

Tlie  dust  ill  India  irritated  my  throat  badly  and  it 
lias  been  troublesome  e\er  sinee  ;  and  as  1  am  tired  out, 
1  am  taking'  needed  rest  here  with  a  Chinese  Doetor,  a 
.graduate  of  the  Women's  Medieal  College  of  IMiiladel- 
])liia,  who  is  treating'  mv  throat.  The  bright  yellow 
silk  ornament  she  wears  in  her  hair  looks  \ery  eheer- 
ful.  and  she  tells  me  interesting  stories  about  her  hos- 
pital. The  Chinese  Amah  who  makes  ni}'  fire  and 
brings  u])  my  breakfast  is  a  dear  old  thing  with  a 
whole  handful  of  sil\-er  blades  in  her  shiu}-  blaek 
tresses,  and  her  bare  feet  thrust  into  embroidered 
sli])])ers.  She  tries  hard  to  talk  to  me.  but  I  eamiot 
make  her  understand  e\en  with  the  sign  language. 
Perhaps  you  are  wondering  why  the  women  and  girls 
here  wear  trousers.  They  say  it  is  to  deeeive  e\il 
spirits  into  the  belief  that  they  are  men,  so  that  when 
they  swoo])  down  to  earr\'  awav  a  valuable  man  they 
may  get  a  good-for-nothing  woman  instead.  Xiee  for 
the  women,  isn't  it  ? 

(  )ne  ot  the  great  e\ents  of  ni\-  sta\'  in  h'oochow  was 
the  dinner  party  gi\en  me  1)\-  my  hostess.  She  had 
promised  me  a  real  Chinese  dinner,  and  when  the  im- 
l)ortant  da\'  eame,  bringing  a  number  of  the  loreign 
ladies  of  h'oochow,  we  gathered  around  the  long  table, 
set  out  in  Chinese  lashion  without  table  cloth,  nai)kins, 
kni\es,  or  forks,  h'.acli  i)erson  had  a  large  China  s])onii 
with  a  short  handle  and  a  ])air  of  chop  sticks.  Course 
alter  course  lollowetl  one  another  with  bewildering 
ra])i(]it\':  each  of  tlu'in  was  to  be  eaten  with  that  spoon 
or  the  chop  sticks.  I'",\t'r\thing  w  a--  bi'ouglit  on  in 
little    bowls.   —     the    kind    that    ti])    o\er    easily,    -      and 


180 


uDi'xn  Till':  woRij)  IX  silicxci': 


as  the  contents  \\cre  lari^ely  licitiid  nou  can  imagine 
the  laus^iiter  as  we  s])lashe(l  tlie  contents  o\-er  the 
table,  in  otn"  etforts  to  i^'et  hold  of  something'.  —  any- 
thing. —  with  tliose  two  little  wooden  sticks,  the 
spoon  with  short  handle  being  almost  as  difficult  to 
manage.  The  few  -who  were  e.\])ert  in  their  use  had 
their  hands  full  in  teaching  the  rest  of  us.  ( )ne  of  the 
Chinese  ladies  translated  the  mentt  into  hjiglish  for 
me.  afterward.  Among  other  delicacies  in  the  eighteen 
courses  were  lily  pads,  stewed  mushrooms  and  birds'- 
nest  SOU]). 

Moll}-  and  ]''rank  ha\e  been  on  a  tri])  iidand.  from 
which  they  returned  a  few  da\s  ago.  Thex-  went  uj) 
the  ri\-er.  taking  their  bamboo  sedan  chairs  with  them, 
as.  unless  one  goes  on  toot,  this  is  the  onlv  wa\-  to 
traxel  inland  in  China.  TIkw  took  their  own  cook 
along  also,  but  of  course  the\-  sle])t  at  the  Chinese 
inns  and  had  man\-  no\-el  e.\])eriences.  Moll}"s  brother 
was  married  at  the  I'nited  States  Consulate  last  night. 
The  Consul  gax'c  the  bride  awaw  The  house  was  a 
bower  ot  dowers:  there  were  ])rett\-  gowns,  delicious 
refreshments.  —  everything  that  goes  to  make  up  a 
beautiful  wedding  "  back  home  "".  'Idiere  was  nothing 
Chinese  about  it.  exce])t  that  the  bride  and  groom 
went  awa_\-  in  sedan  chairs,  amidst  a  fusillade  of  five 
crackers. 

The  day  set  for  our  tri])  to  the  Kushan  Monasler\' 
dawned  dark  and  gloomw  but  we  started  in  the  ho])e 
that  it  might  clear  u]).  Mollw  her  two  little  girls,  and 
1  in  chairs,  {''rank.  ICIsie.  Air.  and  Mrs.  .Mae  and  an 
elderly  Chinese  gentleman  on  foot.  This  fairious 
-Monastery  is  on  the  Kushan  .Mountain,  tlie  ])ri(le  ot 
l'ooch()w.      It   is  sexeral   miles  awa\'   on   tlie  other  side 


R(^L'\'l)  Till".   WORLD   IX   SlLF.X'Cl'. 


ISl 


i)f  the  ri\ei".  (  )n  reaching'  the  ri\"er.  our  chairs  were 
lashed  to  the  roof  of  one  boat,  their  ])earers  and  tlie 
two  men  in  charge  of  our  luncheon  were  ])ut  inside. 
and  the  rest  of  us  crowded  into  another  boat,  sitting;" 
wedii'ed  toj^ether  on  the  tloor  of  the  tin\-  cabin,  whose 
roof  and  walls  were  made  of  bamboo  mattins^'.  I'ans, 
and  an  idol  with  its  \-oti\e  llowers.  decked  the  walls. 
(  )ur  oarsmen  were  women,  three  of  them,  who  rowed 
with  a  lon^-  easy  sweep.  'Idle  ri\er  is  so  wide  that  it 
took  them  an  hour  and  a  half  to  reach  the  other  side, 
w  hen  we  w  ere  borne  aloni;"  sin^ie  file  on  narrow  ridges 
ot  land  aboxe  wet  rice  fields,  through  one  forlorn  \'il- 
lai^e  after  another,  w  here,  as  I  was  beiui^'  carried  alouL;-. 
1  looked  throu,i;ii  the  o])en  doors  of  the  houses  into 
dark  comfortless  rooms  with  the  earth  for  a  fioor.  The 
streets  were  ])a\ed  with  liUL^'e  flat  stones,  broken  and 
irreLiularK'  ])laced,  sli])])er\'  with  mud  and  slime.  Al  \- 
bearers  had  to  ])ick  their  wa\-  \er\-  carefully.  1  was 
L^iad  to  bei^in  the  ascent  ot  the  mountain  and  ^et  away 
irom  the  horrible  smell.  Most  of  the  waw  the  ascent 
is  up  a  lonj^'  stairwa_\-  of  stone  slal)S,  twistin;^"  aloni.;-  in 
a  i^radual  u])ward  climb.  We  sto])])e(l  man\-  times,  to 
let  the  bearers  rest  and  to  liax'c  tea.  The  ])riests 
ortered  tea  at  each  of  the  man\'  shrines  that  dotted 
the  waw  This  mountain  is  oxer  three  thousand  teet 
hij^h.  an<l  the  Monaster}'  is  a  little  more  than  hall  way 
u]).  We  left  om"  chairs  there,  and  after  watcliini^"  the 
sacred  car])  in  a  fish  ])ond  fi^^ht  for  the  lood  we  tlu'ew 
out  for  them,  we  went  (  m  loot  u])  a  winding'  ])alli  lii  a 
beautiful  ,L;ien  where  a  little  sununer  houx.'  \\a>  hidik'n 
aw  aw  It^  ui)i)er  >tiir\-  was  a  ])erlecl  copy  oi  ilu'  deck 
of  a  boat  with  its  cabin.  (  )m'  lunclnMiU  was  >])r(.'a(l  on 
dt-id<.    an<l    w c    were    in    the    mid'-t    I'l    it     wIumi    a    li^iit 


182 


ROUND  THK  WORLD   IX   STLF.XCH 


sliower  l)es^an.  and  our  tabic  had  to  be  niON'ed  l)ack 
under  tlie  ea\"es,  amid  nuich  merriment.  [^iinclieon 
over,  we  made  our  wdv  back  to  the  ]\b:)nastcry.  to 
wander  throut^'h  its  courts  and  ])cep  into  its  ])laces  of 
worship,  the  lar^'cst  of  which  was  huni;-  with  tablets, 
and  had  its  floor  co\-ered  with  kneeling;'  stools  for  the 
three  himdred  ^•ellow-rol)ed  (lisei])les  of  lluddha  who 
worship  there.  The  Abbott  received  us  in  his  study, 
and  i^'axe  otu'  two  little  skirls  orans^'cs.  They  obeying;- 
their  mother's  instructions.  res])on(led  by  shakini;' 
hands  with  themselves  in  ])ro])er  Chinese  stvle.  which 
delij^hted  him  exceedins^iy.  just  as  we  came  (Hit  of 
his  room  the  black  cloud  that  had  been  hovering'  over 
the  to])  of  the  mountain  broke  into  rain,  so  we  had  to 
hasten  our  departtu'c.  The  rain  fell  more  hea\dl\-  e\"er\' 
moment  while  we  were  descendin<4'.  and  by  the  time 
the  boats  were  reached  it  was  a  delntie.  \vhich  con- 
timied  mitil  we  were  safely  home.  The  three  men 
who  carried  me  all  day  asked  only  sixty  cents  for  the 
day.  twenty  cents  apiece.  ]\lolly.  who  was  born  in 
Foochow  and  understands  the  dialects,  sa^■s  that  one 
of  the  bearers  asked  her  if  I  cotdd  speak  l)oth  hjii^iish 
and  American,  thinkini^'  that  a  wonderftil  feat.  lsn"t 
that  funny  I 

SliAXCIlAT  A(;.\TX 
Dusk  was  just  fallini^'  when  our  tender  sailed  away 
from  the  dock  at  h^)ochow.  and  we  saw  the  last  of  the 
little  band  that  had  come  down  to  see  us  oil.  'I'he 
])iercin<4'  cold  wind  on  the  ri\er  dro\e  us  into  the 
shelter  of  the  cabin.  It  was  (|uite  dark  1)\  the  time 
the  boat  swtmt;"  around  to  the  ^anu'way  of  the  steamer. 
( )m"  ])arty  had  gathered  streni.;th  numerically,  and  now 
included    iM-ank.    Mollw    her    sister    iClsie.    lluddie,    his 


KOL'XD  'I'ill'.   WORLD   IX   SIl.l'.XCl' 


183 


two  little  sisters,  and  their  l<"()()ch(n\-  amah,  besides  the 
two  C.ra\  s  and  myself:  and  on  board  we  found  two 
elderlv   gentlemen   from   Xew   York  win-)   were  makini;- 


C'll  IXl'SI'     l!l-;('.('.AKS 


a  tour  of  the  wurld.  The  steamer  was  the  one  on 
whieli  I  had  come  down,  and  we  Idled  e\-er\'  inch  ol 
■-])aee  in  its  ti\i'  staterooms.  \\()i"ds  lail  nu'  in 
(U'scribinL''  the  dnllness  of  the  xowau'e.      \'.\v\\  those  not 


184 


ROUXD  THE  WORLD   I X  SILHXCE 


actually  sea-sick  kept  their  l)erths,  and  the  three  little 
ones  all  had  the  whooping"  coui^h.  Thex-  were  \er\- 
jolly  about  it.  amusini;-  themsel\-es  ha])pil_\-  with  their 
toys  between  ])ar()xysnis  of  coui^hini;-  in  which  their 
father  flew  to  their  assistance,  both  mother  and  nurse 
beins;"  too  ill  to  lift  a  head.  The  deck  was  wet,  and 
crowded  with  freis^ht  and  Chinese,  so  there  was 
nothing"  for  it  but  to  stay  in  ni_\'  stateroom  or  the 
saloon,  where,  three  times  a  da\',  the  Chinese  steward 
cleared  our  things  oft"  the  table  to  get  ready  for  meals. 
On  the  third  da}'  the  patient  little  engine  broke  down, 
the  anchor  was  i)ut  out.  and  there  we  stax-ed  f(_)r  hours 
while  it  was  being  repaired.  W  hen  at  last  it  was 
started  u])  again,  the  ca])tain  ])r()mise(l  to  land  us  at 
Shangjiai  at  noon  the  next  da\- ;  Init  two  hours  later 
the  anchor  was  (lro])])e(l  again,  and  we  remained  there 
all  night.  mo\-ing  on  once  more  in  the  morning,  when 
it  was  announced  that  we  would  reach  the  wharf  at 
Shanghai  l)etween  four  and  ti\-e  o'clock.  The  sick 
ones  re\"i\-ed  at  the  news,  and  we  were  all  thrilled 
with  excitement  at  the  ])ros])ect  of  being  released  from 
our  ])rison.  Frank  and  Molly,  being  anxious  to  catch 
the  boat  for  the  north  and  ])roceed  on  tlieir  trip  to 
I'ekin  that  night,  had  their  trunks  brought  U])  to  the 
saloon  Irom  the  hold,  and  went  t(i  work  to  re])ack. 
Meanwhile,  the  boat  crawled  u])  the  ri\er.  and  finally 
came  to  anchor  at  hall  ])ast  six.  And  then,  instead  ot 
going  u])  to  the  dock,  it  came  to  a  stop  in  the  middle 
of  the  rix'er.  We  were  much  disgusted  as  we  had  a 
mountain  of  hand  baggage,  our  trunks,  the  wedding 
cake  in  its  huge  tin  box.  and  sexeral  carxed  tables, 
l)ought  in  h'oochow.  to  be  loaded  into  rowboats.  as 
well    as    three    little    ones    and    ourseKes.  —  and    this 


RdUXD  THE  WORLD  TX  SILFA'CI': 


185 


just  as  it  was  getting  dark!  The  decks  swarmed  with 
Chinese,  jnishint^'.  jostHiiL;',  and  i^esticnhitini;'  wildlv. 
1  was  nearly  swe])t  oft  my  feet  as  1  went  down  tlie 
swayinii"  kidder  to  the  l)oats.  clins^ini^'  to  the  s^uard 
rope.  'i\)  add  to  my  fright,  the  man  who  carried  mv 
liand  baj^'L^'as^e  insisted  on  ])uttin!:;"  it  into  an  empty 
l)oat.  in  (Hrect  cHsobedience  to  my  i^estures  to  ])ut  it 
into  the  boat  with  the  (jrays.  J  couhl  do  nothing,'  with 
liim.  and  was  at  last  oblii^^ed  to  s^o  with  the  (irays  and 
lea\e  my  bagt^age  to  its  fate.  It  was  cpiite  dark  by 
the  time  our  boat  touched  the  wharf,  wdiere  Alollv  and 
the  rest  of  them  were  waitint^'  to  ])ull  us  u]) :  but  where 
were  the  two  ^gentlemen  who  had  ])romised  to  see  that 
the  Gray's  trunks  and  mine  were  brought  up  from  the 
hold  and  landed.  Xo  one  had  seen  or  heard  anything 
of  them.  We  dared  not  leave  the  wharf  for  fear  of 
missing  them,  and  the  men  would  not  go  and  lea\e  us 
three  women  there  all  alone.  After  a  long  wait  in  the 
dark  and  cold,  h^-ank  decided  to  call  for  a  rowboat 
and  go  back  to  the  steamer  to  see  if  he  could  find  them. 
—  Another  wait,  ddien  Moll_\-  heard  his  cheery  whis- 
tle o\-er  the  water.  Wdiat  a  welcome  we  ga\-e  him 
when  he  landed  with  the  four  trunks.  lie  said  the 
two  gentlemen  had  forgotten  all  about  us,  and  had 
decided  to  remain  on  board  for  the  night.  Their  con- 
sternation was  great  when  the\-  heard  how  we  had 
waited  tor  them.  We  made  (|uite  a  ])rocession  wlien 
we  finally  got  started.  There  was  the  carriage  with 
Molly:  I'.lsie.  the  children  and  their  amah,  four  jin- 
ricki>has  with  the  rest  of  us.  an  additional  jinrickisha 
with  baggage,  and  a  wheelbarrow  with  the  four  trunks. 
.\s  the  (".rays  and  I  had  to  go  \-er\-  slowl\-  to  kee])  with 
the    wln'idbarrow.    tlie   otlu'r^    mmhi    left    us    far   behind. 


186  ROUXD  Till':   \\C)RI,1)   IX   SILl-A'CE 

Wnx  can  imaj^ine  liow  welconic  the  liij'lit  and  warmth 
were  when  the  Ixnirdin^'  liouse  was  readied. 

Now  I  am  here  alone  with  strans^ers,  as  Ah)lly. 
Frank,  and  the  (iraws  left  vesterdav  for  I'ekin.  They 
are  taking"  only  two  weeks  for  the  jonrne}',  L;oin^-  and 
retnrnint;",  with  less  than  two  daws  for  the  stay  in 
Pekin.  1  am  tired  of  so  mucli  travelling;",  and  ha\e 
cabled  to  iiarry  and  Alary  to  ask  if  they  can  meet  me 
at  Nagasaki  if  I  sail  next  week.  In  the  meantime  I  am 
trying-  to  get  a  new  snit  and  hat.  I  think  I  ha\e  looked 
over  e\ery  bit  of  "  foreign  '"  goods  in  Shanghai,  and 
ins])ected  e\ery  "  foreign  ""  hat.  So  far  as  1  can  dis- 
C()\er.  there  are  exactly  fonr  ready-made  wool  suits  in 
Shanghai.  \''()n  should  see  me  going  out  on  a  sho])- 
])ing  ex])editi()n.  After  reading  all  the  adxertisements 
in  the  local  ])a])er  and  in  the  Shanghai  guide  book,  1 
write  out  a  list  of  the  places  I  want  to  \-isit.  and  take 
it  to  the  Chinese  head  clerk  in  the  book  store  on  the 
hrst  door  of  this  house.  lie  goes  out  in  the  street 
with  me.  and  when,  in  answer  to  his  call,  a  half  dozen 
jinrickisha  men  rush  u]),  he  picks  out  the  best-looking 
one  in  the  lot.  ])rocee(ls  to  instruct  him.  and  then 
stands  back,  looking  doubtful,  for  the  coolies  in\ari- 
ably  say  "yes"",  whether  ihev  understand  or  not.  1 
get  in.  and  away  I  go.  \\  hen  I  want  to  sto])  any- 
where I  ])oke  at  m\-  steed  with  m\'  mnbrella.  ( )l 
course  I  do  not  go  to  anv  of  the  Chinese  stores  alone, 
—  only  to  the  h'rench  or  Pjiglish  sho])s.  The}-  are  not 
far  from  here.  Shanghai  has  a  iM-ench.  (k'rmau  and 
h'<ngiish  concession,  as  well  as  the  natixe  cil\-;  and  if 
your  jinrickisha  man  does  not  hap])en  to  hax'e  a  license 
for  the  h'rench  concession,  and  xou  want,  as  1  did,  to 
go    to    the    steamship    office,    which    is    on    its    edge,    it 


RouxD  Tiiic  WORLD  IX  siij<:xci-: 


187 


would  l)e  necessary  for  }-ou  to  lea\e  your  jinrickisha 
and  walk  o\  er. 

Shanghai,  like  Manila,  comes  as  a  surprise.  It  is 
such  a  fine  well-built  ])lace.  The  Yangtse  river  Hows 
throut^h  it.  \\ith  the  broad  lUind  curving-  alonj^-  its 
banks.  There  are  trees  and  grass  at  the  water's  edi^e  ; 
and  the  foreiii;"n  steamers,  lying'  at  anchor  along  the 
middle  of  the  stream,  make  me  think  of  a  water 
])arade.  they  are  so  decked  with  dags  and  streamers. 

The  weather  has  become  more  spring-like  than  it 
was  when  1  was  here  before.  It  is  cjuite  like  our  April, 
but  the  Chinese  are  still  wearing  the  c|uilted  robes  that 
make  them  look  like  so  many  bundles  of  bedding.  1 
like  to  watch  the  wheelbarrows,  with  their  loads  of 
])eople.  The  coolies  who  push  them  ha\e  such  won- 
derful dexterity.  At  first  1  feared  lest  they  ti])  o\er. 
but  now  I  am  more  resigned,  knowing  that  the  gar- 
ments of  the  occupants  are  too  thickh-  wadded  to 
allow  them  to  be  hurt.  These  wheell)arrows  are  like 
nothing  else  on  earth!  I'eople  sit  on  shelves  on  either 
side  of  a  single  large  wheel,  and  miraculously  keej) 
their  e((uilil)rium  as  they  are  pushed  tii)-tilting  along! 

I  cannot  become  accustomed  to  the  sight  of  a  swarm 
of  coolies  acting  as  drav  horses,  ])ushing,  ])ulling  and 
tugging  to  mo\-e  huge  blocks  of  stone  and  other  hea\y 
loads  through  the  streets.  It  is  all  man-labor  here. 
The  big  vSikh  ])olicemen  who  stand  in  the  road  and 
regulate  trafiic  in  the  hjigiish  cit\-  hax'c  a  great  fascina- 
tion lor  me.  I  nearly  twist  m_\-  head  olf  e\ery  time  I 
])ass  one.  trxing  to  see  how  liis  long  whiskers  are 
twi>ted  n\)  into  liis  back  hair. 


At    last    I    ha\e   succeeded    in    •jetliiiij'   some   checked 


188  ROUXD  a'HK  WORLD  IX  STLKXCE 

woolen  i^'oocls  for  my  suit,  and  the  Ijoardino-  house 
people  sent  for  a  Chinese  tailor  for  me.  Me  came 
prom])tl}',  an  intellij^'ent-lookin;^"  creature  \vith  loni;" 
.qxMUeel  tini^er  nails,  and  t^ave  me  a  had  half  hour,  for 
it  \vas  (|uite  imi)ossil)le  to  tell  how  much  he  under- 
stood. I  showed  him  ])ictures  in  the  lashion  hook, 
showed  him  how  my  j^'owns  were  made,  i^ax-e  him  my 
jacket  to  use  as  a  ])attern.  and  am  hopins^'  for  the  hest. 
J'dsie.  who  keeps  house  for  her  hrother.  a  professor 
at  Xan  ^'ani^'  Collei^'c.  the  non-sectarian  Chinese  col- 
let^'e  in  the  country  six  miles  from  Shanii'hai.  inxdted 
me  out  there  to  take  luncheon  and  see  the  ])la}-  for  the 
henetit  of  the  h'amine  Fund.  The  i)eople  here  said  that 
that  was  too  far  for  a  jinrickisha  man  and  that  I  must 
ha\'e  a  carriaj^'c.  so  J  had  them  eni^ai^'e  a  cou])e. 
W  hen  the  time  to  start  came.  e\'ery  one  in  the  house 
at  the  time  came  down  to  see  me  ott.  and  all  exclaimed 
at  the  miserahle-lookint;'  horse,  insisting'  he  would  die 
before  we  had  i^one  half  way.  The  interpreter  was  in- 
structed to  tell  the  driver  he  must  chani;e  it  for  a 
better  one.  lie  insisted  that  it  was  the  best  he  had. 
The\'  ari.;-ue(l  for  a  loni;'  while,  till  tinalK'  he  aL;reed  to 
chaui^'e  the  horse;  and  to  sa\'e  time  it  was  arranged 
that  I  should  ij,()  aloni^'  and  sit  in  the  carriaij,"e  while  the 
transler  was  made,  the  li\ery  bein^'  onl\'  three  S(|uares 
awaw  So  in  I  i^'ot.  and  m\'  wih'  coachman  (lro\'e  away 
and  u])  to  the  stable,  where,  instead  of  chan^^in^"  the 
horse,  he  turned  around  and  started  for  Xan  ^  an^'. 
As  J  knew  it  wtnild  be  useless  to  remonstrate.  1  held 
my  ])eace  and  waited  to  see  ^\•hat  hapi)ened.  The 
brute.  howe\er.  de\elo])ed  a  sur])risin!_:,'  speed  and  en- 
durance, so    1    settled  down  to  en]'o\-   the  ride. 


ROIWI)  'I'llI'.  WORLD    1\   SILI'XCl': 


IS') 


\in\  nc\cr  saw  an^lliiiii^'  as  crooked  as  tlicsc 
Chinese  streets.  Tlie  Chinese  say  tlie  e\il  sjjirits 
alwavs  tl\-  straii^ht.  and  if  they  l)nni])  into  walls  they 
will  i;"et  frii^htened  and  lea\e  the  city.  The  llund  and 
Xankinj^'  Road  are  the  onh'  \\ide  streets  with  any  pre- 
tense of  straiii'htness  that  1  ha\e  seen  yet,  and  they  do 
not  keep  it  u])  far.  lint  v^hanj^hai's  crooked  streets 
soon  !4a\-c  Avay  to  conntry  roads.  (  )ttt  in  the  conntry 
the  trees  were  be^i'inninj^"  to  bnd.  and  xes^etation  to 
break  into  s])rin!4'  ^ior_\"  ;  bnt  the  air  was  cold  and  raw. 
and  the  little  brick  tond)s  with  their  hii^h  i)itched 
roofs,  which  co\-er  so  ninch  of  the  i^ronnd.  j^ixe  a  de- 
])ressinij  as])ect  to  the  landscai)e.  I  was  t^lad  when  we 
tnrned  into  the  i^'atewax'  ol  the  colle^'e  <.^ronn(ls.  lUid 
and  his  sisters  were  as  interestini^'  as  e\-er.  and  hdsie 
even  more  attractixe.  The  honrs  s])e(l  all  too  fast, 
till  the  time  came  to  540  o\-er  to  the  \A  lltin;^'  Chani;' 
.Memorial  Tem])le  to  see  the  i)lay.  Onite  a  little  i)art_\- 
of  ns  ■■  foreigners  "".  toi^ether  with  the  Chinese 
stndents,  made  np  the  andience.  The  actors,  whet 
were  also  stndents.  wore  the  foreit^n  clothes.  There 
was  no  scenerw  The  stndents  seemed  to  enjo}-  the 
])]a_\-  \ery  mnch.  ])nt  1  conld  not  make  out  its  i)lol,  — 
the  ])\'d\  bill  bein^'  in  Chinese,  —  and  those  around 
me  to  whom  1  a])])lie(l  were  no  better  olT.  hdsie  under- 
stands Chinese,  but  she  was  not  al)le  to  comt'.  As  I 
went  out.  1  sto])])e(l  for  a  ^ood  look  at  the  lile-si/.e 
bron/(,'  statue  of  IJ  ilnm,;'  Chan^',  the  first  statue  e\er 
erected  to  an\-  Chinaman. 

The  tailor  lias  brought  home  soun"  oi  m\  thiuL^s. 
The  skirts  look  (piite  nice,  but  tlu'  shirt-wai>l  is  a  si^ht 
lo  behiild.  it-;  \()ke  and  collar  ai"e  si  1  lumi\.      Mowiwcr, 


190 


ROL'XI)  'IMII':   WORIJ)    l.\   SIIJ'AC 


if  it  is  difficult  to  i;ct  clothes  here,  it  is  in  no  \\a\-  diffi- 
cult to  i^et  them  laundered.  Think  of  liaxdnt^"  six 
shirtwaists  beautifull}-  done  up  for  ten  cents! 


( )n    IJoard   the    Mongolia. 

Well,  here  I  am  on  my  way  to  Xai^asaki.  'Jdie 
cable  from  Marv  come  in  time  for  me  to  secure  a  state- 
room on  this  l)oat.  —  a  lo\el}-  one  too.  on  the  ui)])er 
deck.  —  a  corner  room  A\ith  port  holes  on  each  side, 
like  a  \vatch  tower.  It  is  steam-heated  and  \er}-  com- 
fortable. For  roommate.  I  ha\e  a  youny"  ,^'irl  from 
Formosa  who  is  on  her  wav  in  chart^e  of  her  brother 
to  a  boardin*^"  school  in  Enii'land. 

llow  it  did  rain  the  da}-  I  left  v^hani^liai  I  The  tender 
sailed  at  three  o'clock,  and  of  course  I  had  all  packed 
up  early.  Ikit  the  tailor  did  not  come  with  my  thing's 
until  the  last  minute.  The  men  were  alread}-  waiting' 
to  carr}-  my  trunks  down.  ?\lr.  l\\-ans  and  nn'  dear 
friend  jean,  who  had  just  arrived  froni  Foochow.  went 
down  to  the  dock  with  me.  ^\here  we  found  h'dsie.  her 
brother,  and  his  bride,  who  had  driven  six  miles  in  the 
rain.  Thcv  thought  it  ^•erv  forlorn  for  me  to  be  going 
all  alone,  and  among  them  the\-  hunted  u])  some  half 
dozen  ])eo])le  \vh(_)  all  ])romised  to  hel])  me.  The  sun 
came  out  just  at  the  last  moment,  so.  as  the  tender 
steamed  awa_\'.  1  could  look  l)ack  on  them  standing  in 
the  sunset  light,  its  glor}-  like  a  benediction  on  their 
heads.  Later.  1  found  some  old  friends  from  far-away 
()lo\ers\ille  on  the  steamer. 


ROLXl)  'nil'',   WORLD    l.\   SlLICXCl', 


X\l 


Xai^asaki.  jaiKin. 

A 'I'  last  I  am  in  ja])an.  the  land  tliat  has  l)ccn  llic 
()l)jcct  of  m\'  dreams  for  so  lont;'.  and  it  is  cxcn 
more  fascinating'  than  1  liad  ex])ected  to  find  it. 
I  am  liardly  willing'  to  cat  (~>r  slcc]).  I  am  so  anxious  to 
sec  c\"crytliin!:i',  e\'cn  to  all  the  little  knicl<:knaeks  in  the 
slio])s.  'Idle  \-cry  air  fills  me  with  \i\d(l  jo_\-  of  life, 
and  it  is  so  delig'htftil  to  be  with  1  larry  and  .Mary. 
They  ha\c  ])ut  their  fifteen  years  in  the  countr\-  to  the 
best  adx-antai^e.  'Jdicy  know  e\-erythinii'  about  it. — 
its  lani^uai^c,  customs  and  manufactures,  cities  and  bx- 
\\a_\s.  And  they  are  never  too  btisy  to  answer  (|ucs- 
tions. 

It  was  a  .glorious  morninj^'  when  the  Mongolia  sailed 
u])  Xai^'asaki's  narrow  winding'  harbor  to  anchor  in 
siL;ht  ol  the  town.  The  shij)  was  immediatcK-  sur- 
rounded by  a  swarm  of  small  boats,  and  the  decks 
tilled  with  cmdo  dealers,  hotel  runners  and  men  tixin^' 
the  ro])e  ladders  froiu  the  coaling'  boats.  The  Mon- 
golia was  to  take  on  coal  belore  ])rocecdin^'  to  Kobe. 
The  coaling'  is  done  1)\'  t^'irls,  who  line  ui)ou  the  ladder 
and  ])ass  baskets  Irom  hand  to  hand  with  most  won- 
derhd  ra])i<lit\'.  'idie\-  ])ut  in  nearl\-  four  hundred  tons 
an  hour  it  is  said.  The  decks  were  lhrou!_;ed  with 
eaL^er  Jai)anese.  all  bent  on  ensnariuL;'  the  tourists' 
money.  Mere  a  couple  of  hotel  runnei-s  wcmx'  kow- 
towini:^'  to  an  old  ladw  who.  unused  to  Japanese  po- 
lili'nes>,    lodkecl    ^rart'd    half   out    of   lu'i"    wils.      A    little 


192 


ROUXD  T]1J<:  WORLD   IX  SILHXCK 


further  on.  a  dilTerent  kind  of  deportment  was  shown 
by,  —  1  am  sorry  to  say  it.  —  a  fair  yonn<^  countr_\- 
woman  of  mine.  One  of  the  Japanese  who  had  come 
over  the  ship's  side  to  arrant^e  a  rope  ladder  for  a  coal- 
ini;-  boat  was  rude  to  her.  and  she  slapped  him  in  the 
lace.  1  had  just  turned  awa}'  from  this  scene,  when  1 
caui^ht  sight  of  IJarry  and  Alary  in  a  ])oat  below.  How- 
good  it  was  to  go  off  the  steamer  into  real  Spring,  the 
air  Avas  so  soft  and  tuild  and  such  a  contrast  to  Shang- 
hai. We  climbed  hills  and  turned  corners  in  the 
quaintest  narrow  streets,  where  each  l^right-eyed  little 
native  we  met  exchanged  a  series  of  most  profound 
bows  with  Alary,  while  I  stood  b}'  wide-e}ed.  Finall}-, 
in  turning  another  corner,  we  came  ])lum])  on  a  real 
white  Xew  England  house,  all  alone  among  its  brown 
foreign  neighbors.  This  ^\•as  where  we  were  to  board 
with  an  American.  The  drawing  room  is  full  of  treas- 
ures in  car\-ed  furniture,  bronzes  and  ])orcelains.  Mv 
bedroom  is  gained  by  an  outside  gallery,  where  there 
is  a  tine  view  of  the  (piaint  little  houses  clustered  on 
the  hillside  and  in  the  \-alley  below,  with  a  glimpse  of 
distant  blue  water,  and  all  around,  as  background  to 
the  picture,  are  hills,  and  again  more  hills.  Xagasaki 
is  beautifully  situated.  I  was  rushing  for  ni}'  kodak, 
when  Alary  stop])ed  me  b\-  saying  it  was  against  the 
law  to  take  ])hotogra])hs.  W  hat  a  shame,  when  the 
])lace  is  so  picturescpie  1  Its  harbor  is  re])ute(l  to  be 
one  of  the  prettiest  in  the  I^ast.  The  city  has  a  hetero- 
geneous ]:)0])ulation.  Alary  and  1  counted  ten  nati(,n- 
alities  besides  the  Ja])anese  :  there  were  Russian.  I'o- 
lish.  Dutch.  I'ortuguese.  Chinese.  Korean.  .Xorwcgian. 
J*'rench,   hjiglish  and  American. 

'J"he  streets  are  \ery  clean,  and  well  ke])t.  with  good 


ROUXI)  'I'll]'.   WORLD    IN"   SilJCXCl-.  1<)3 

hard  roads  in  the  level  part  of  the  eity  :  those  that  w  iiid 
in  terraecs  n])  the  hill  sides  are  many  of  them  ])a\ed 
with  stone  slahs.  and  each  terrace  is  carefully  hanked 
with  stone  work.  It  is  simply  fascinating"  to  ride 
throuj^h  the  streets  and  watch  the  life  there,  —  little 
b(\vs  and  skirls  runnini.i'  about  at  pla_\-.  with  babies  al- 
most as  bi^'  as  themselves  stra])])ed  on  their  backs 
Sometimes  baby  has  a  dolly  on  its  back,  and  the  tier  of 
little  heads,  risin*^'  one  behind  another,  is  too  amusing! 
Then  there  are  workmen  with  the  insignia  of  their 
trade  stamped  on  the  backs  of  their  blue  tunics,  and 
flocks  of  school  skirls  and  boys.  These  school  ,i;'irls. 
with  their  rosy  cheeks,  bright  black  eyes  and  shiniuL;' 
hair,  are  \ery  ])retty.  They  wear  their  hair  ver_\'  much 
as  our  twirls  at  home  do.  —  in  a  ponijiadour  and  braid, 
tied  with  ribbon.  One  can  always  tell  the  Japanese 
school  boys  and  .girls  by  their  dress.  The  boys  all 
wear  a  sort  of  divided  skirt,  a  cloth  cup  with  a  \isor. 
and  the  Japanese  geta.  or  wooden  shoes  with  no  stock- 
ings. The  girls  wear  a  ])leated  skirt,  red  or  ])ur])le. 
and  either  foreign  shoes  and  stockings  or  the  Japanese 
low  white  stocking  and  wooden  clogs.  The\-  look 
\-er}-  fresh  and  sweet  as  thev  trot  gailv  along.  usualK' 
a  whole  dock  of  them  together.  llarr}-  and  Mary  ha\e 
a  little  rest  from  m}-  (piestions  when  we  ride  out.  for 
we  arc  in  se])arate  jinrickishas,  and.  as  we  are  obliged 
])\-  law  to  kee])  in  single  tile.  1  cannot  si)eak  to  them 
witliout  bringing  our  whole  procession  to  a  hah. 
W  hcthcr  Irom  accident  or  design  1  do  not  know,  but 
it  is  alwaxs  .Mar\-  that  heads  our  ])rocession.  tlum 
comes  m\self  and  Ilarr\-  brings  u])  in  the  rear.  I  can 
admire  tln'  ])rett\-  color  of  .Mar\"s  back  hair.  and.  by 
dim  of  much  sipiirming.  get   far  enough  around  to  take 


194 


ROL'XI)  'IMII'    WORLD    IX   SILi'.XCl". 


in  JIarry's  e\er-sercnc  exprcssit m  :  l)ut  as  for  compaii- 
ionslii]).  1  iimst  rcsi^^'ii  myself  to  ]n'^  alon^-.  sceini;' 
e\-crvthini;-  I   ])()ssil)]\-  can.      ()h.  for  a  dozen  e\es  I 

Ja])ancse  jinrickishas  are  the  most  attractixe  J  liaxc 
seen  anywhere.  Thex'  are  all  so  new  and  fresh-look- 
int;',  and  ha\-e  nice  warm  rnL^s,  as  the  law  re(|nires. 
The  men  also  look  neat  in  their  dark  hlue  tunics  and 
the  long"  tit^'ht-fittin,<^"  blue  trousers  that  meet  the  1)lue 
tabi  at  the  ankle.  The  !on_g'  sleex'es  of  the  tunic  come 
down  o\er  the  hand.  ])rotectins4'  the  wearer's  hands 
from  sunburn.  The  slim,  dark  l)lue  figures  are  to])])ed 
by  a  bowl-like  hat.  held  on  the  head  b\-  a  wire  frame- 
work, 'bhese  jinrickisha  men  are  in\arial)l\-  ])olite  and 
obliging.  The_\-  always  wait  to  see  that  one  is  com- 
fortal)ly  seated  and  snugly  tucked  in  before  starting 
off.  and  AN'hen  one  leaxes  the  jinrickisha.  the\-  take  care 
of  the  wra])s  and  ])arcels. 

My  first  long  jinrickisha  ride  was  to  Moji,  umi  miles 
awa}'  on  the  gull  ol  ()l)ama,  along  mudd\"  rice  fields 
and  beside  thickets  of  graceful  bamboo,  with  lo\-el\- 
distant  views  of  .\agasaki  and  its  harbor.  l'*\er\-  step 
of  the  way  was  full  of  interest.  I  ])eeped  into  the 
(piaint  little  houses  we  i)asse(l,  made  lo\-e  to  the 
women  and  children,  ga/ed  with  interest  on  the  i)ed- 
dler  loaded  with  gail\-  colored  glass  lamjjs.  rcuKMuber- 
ing  that  one  of  the  first  things  Marry  and  .Mar\  did.  on 
reaching  Ja])an  fifteen  vears  ago.  was  to  write  me  to 
!)U}'  and  send  them  some  lam])S.  hdectric  lighting  i> 
now  conunon  all  ox'er  the  countrw 

Half  way  to  .Moji  our  jinrickisha  men  came  to  a  halt 
at  the  Tea-house  at  Tajami.  While  our  men  were 
resting.  1  had  m\'  first  e.\i)erience  of  ja])anese  tea.  We 
^trolled  into  a  prett\-  arbor,  where  a  bright-faced  uirl 


]>;()l'.\I)  Till':   WORLD    l\   SIIJ'.XCI'. 


vr: 


hroui^ht  us  a  little  traw  with  tiny  howls  of  the  clear 
^"reenish  licjiiid.  ami  little  ])aper-like  rice  cakes.  Mary 
instructed  me  in  the  ])roper  eti([uette.  N'o  money 
should  he  ottered,  as  that  would  he  insulting-,  hut  some 
small  change  may  he  tucked  under  the  tra\-.  In  for- 
mer days  this  was  always  wrapped  in  a  jjiece  of  i)a])er. 
hut  eti(|uette  is  not  so  strict  now.  .\t  Moji  wc  had 
more  tea.  and  walked  down  to  the  end  of  the  loni;' 
stone  ])ier.     Then  we  came  hack  ai^ain  to  .Vas^asaki. 

The  hill  sides  hack  ol  this  house  are  co\ered  with 
;L;ra\es.  h'rom  jtdy  l-'Uh  to  loth,  when  the  s])irits  of 
the  dead  are  sup])osed  to  return  to  earth,  the  i^raxes 
are  li_^iited  u])  with  lanterns.  The  little  twinkling- 
li,^"hts  all  o\-er  the  hills  must  look  \-er}-  pretty.  These 
hills  are  also  the  scenes  of  s^Teat  kite-t1\'in<;'  contests  in 
the  s])rinL;-.  when  men  and  hoys  of  all  a_^'es  tr\-  to  ctit 
down  each  others"  kites  with  strini;s  coated  with  pow- 
dered .L;iass. 

I  am  to  <^()  with  Marry  and  Mary  to  their  home  at 
Ka,^"oshima.  a  three  da_\s"  journeN'  1)\'  train,  small 
steamer,  and.  hest  of  all  a  dri\-e  of  o\er  se\'ent\'  miles 
in  a  nati\e  stai^e,  all  throiio-]i  ^  most  heautiful  country, 
where  lorei^'ners  are  seldom  seen.  The  folks  here  tell 
me  1  am  \er\-  fortunate. 


ni  l\asu,L;a  C'ho.  Ka^ovhima. 
we  reached  here  ahout  ei^ht  o'clock  la:-l  ni^^iit.  I 
enjoNC'd  the  Iri])  hu^elw  We  did  not  cinne  1)\-  the 
mo-^t  direct  roulc',  and  hroke  the  jonrney  1)_\-  spendini;' 
Snnda\-  at  Kumanoto.  It  was  rainin^^'  when  we  K'll 
the  hoardiuL^  house  at  .\aL;a--aki,  and  as  I  ani  ^o  tail  I 
cannot  ^cr  anxthin^  when  the  hoixl  of  the  jinricki'^ha  i-- 
u])  e.\ce])l   ihe   w  ater-prodU'd  hack  and   rapidly   miixin^' 


1% 


ROL'XI)  TlIK   WORLD    IX   SlIJCN'Clt 


lej^'s  of  ni}-  jinrickisha  man.  who  looks  Hke  a  roH  of 
matting-  out  wahvin^-.  as  Ja])anese  raincoats  are  made 
of  straw,  just  hke  a  stri])  of  mattinj^'  fringed  out.  ( )ne 
of  these  strii)s  goes  around  the  waist,  another  around 
the  neck,  and  tliere  he  is  I  To  watch  this  l)undle  mm-- 
ing'  was  amusement  enough.  Finally  it  came  to  a  stop, 
and  ])ut  the  handles  of  the  big  l)al)\--carriage  on  the 
g'round.  I  was  taken  !)}■  sur])rise.  and  slid  down  and 
out.  to  find  myself  in  front  of  the  K}'ushu  l\ailwa\- 
vStation.  The  few  ja])anese  in  the  waiting-room  looked 
at  us  in  amazement,  and  no  wonder,  —  we  had  such 
an  assortment  of  bundles,  bags  and  boxes.  —  o\er 
twenty  for  the  four  of  us.  I  wondered  how  we  were 
g'oing'  to  g'ct  them  all  on  board.  I  had  not  learned 
what  trax'elling-  with  llarr_\-  meant.  (  )ur  l)elongings 
miraculously  ai)])eare(l  exactl}'  when  and  where  the\' 
should  :  there  was  nc\-er  any  fuss  or  Hurry  ;  the  nec- 
essary jinrickishas,  or  boats,  or  \\hate\'er  it  was  that 
was  needed.  s])rang  u])  around  us.  and  in  the  midst 
mo\ed    llarr}-,  —  serene,  and  blandh-  smiling. 

The  train  came,  and  our  second-class  car  was.  1 
fomid.  like  the  cars  at  Imme.  excei)t  that  the  seats  run 
leng'thwise.  and  we  were  the  onlv  foreigners.  .\s  far 
as  Tosu  junction,  where  we  changed  cars,  the  route 
la\'  througii  most  beautiful  scener\'.  much  of  il  along 
(  'mura  liaw  wliich  is  famous  lor  its  beautw  (  )n  lea\- 
ing  the  bax'  we  sjjcd  through  numerous  ])retty  \-alleys 
where  the  land  was  terraced  all  the  wa_\'  u]).  each  ter- 
race being  banked  with  neat  stonework,  and  utilized 
as  a  rice  or  barlcN'  field,  ^^ome  of  the  fields  were  of 
scarceh'  anv  size  at  all.  and  all  ot  them  were  (*t  irreg'- 
ular  sha])es.  Ilarr\-  said  there  was  not  one  s{|uare  field 
in  all  japan. 


Rorxi)  Till':  WORLD  IX  siij':\ci':  i^)? 


When  our  lunch  basket  was  ()])cnc(l.  the  train  1)()\- 
br(m,y"ht  us  h(tt  tea.  That  boy  was  a  niar\el  ;  lie 
watched  oxer  the  comfort  of  every  one  in  the  car, 
o])ene(l  and  closed  windows,  adjusted  the  l)linds, 
tucked  ru|is  around  the  i)eople.  and  warned  theiii  when 
to  be  ready  to  s^'et  oil. 

It  was  intensely  aniusini;'  to  watch  the  ])eo])le  come 
into  the  car.  take  off  the  clos^-s  or  foreii^n  shoes  the\ 
wore,  and  climl)  u])  on  the  seats  with  their  feet  tucked 
u])  under  them.  Se\eral  of  the  women  ()])ened  lar^e 
bordered  handkerchiefs,  and  holdiui;"  them  delicatel}-  1)\' 
one  corner  in  front  of  their  faces,  sat  thus  for  hours. 
This,  and  the  lonj^-  rows  of  shoes  or  cloth's  alon^-  the 
tloor.  were  irresistibly  funn_\'  to  me.  The  women  all 
wore  the  Ja])anese  dress,  but  the  men  and  boys  were 
di\ided  in  their  allei^iance. 

W  hen  we  changed  cars,  the  bo}'  <)i)ened  the  window 
and  ])asse(l  the  luiij^a^'e  out  to  a  red-capped  porter,  who 
carried  it  around  to  the  riyiit  train  and  helped  the  boy 
there  to  arrange  it  in  the  car.  At  t'lve  o'clock  we 
tmished  our  first  day's  journe}'.  We  had  reached 
Kumanoto.  where  I  was  to  ha\e  my  hrst  experience  ol 
a  ja])anese  inn.  1  was  all  excitement,  and.  as  my 
jinrickisha  man  trotted  alon^'.  watched  ea^erU-  for  the 
liouse.  It  was  not  at  all  as  I  had  ex])ecte(l.  We 
turned  in  at  a  ,^ate  in  a  hi^h  board  fence,  and  all  three 
jinrickishas  drew  up  in  line  at  the  ste])s  belore  an  open 
door.  lmmediatel\-  a  trio  of  bri^ht-ex  t'd  maidens  ap- 
])eared.  bowini^"  to  the  lloor.  and  ))resenlini4  s]ii)pers. 
I  )own  on  the  ste])s  sal  llarr\-  and  .Marw  WOnderini; 
what  was  to  ha])i)en  next  I  bt'Stowed  nusell  beside 
them,  and  wa>  ama/.i'd  and  horrified  to  ha\c  m  \'  jin- 
rickisha  man   beuin    iti   unlxillou   m\    >1i(K'^.      (  )n   Itnik- 


198  ROUXl)  THE  WORLD  T  X  SILKXCE 

ino-  around  and  finding-  tlie  others  were  undergoing 
tlie  same  process,  and  taking  it  as  a  matter  of  course. 
I  tried  to  act  as  if  ]  had  l^een  l)rought  u])  to  that 
kind  of  thing.  1  had  a  great  time  trying  to  sliufde 
along  on  those  sli]jpers.  which  were  nothing  l)ut 
sole  and  toe.  in  most  ungraceful  fashion  1  crawled 
u])  the  break-neck  stairs.  —  they  do  not  know  how 
to  build  stairs  here  anv  better  than  in  India.  — 
and.  reaching  a  little  window-seat  in  the  room  to 
which  we  were  conducted.  I  sank  down  on  it,  feeling 
like  an  ele])hant.  Mar\'.  coming  in.  exclaimed  "  vou 
are  sitting  on  the  mantle])iece  I  ""  'idiere  was  ncU  a  sign 
of  furniture  in  the  two  rooms  they  ga\'e  us.  exce])t  flat 
silk  cushions  and  a  l)eautiful  bronze  brazier.  'Phev 
made  haste  to  bring  all  the  foreign  chairs  in  the  house 
u])  for  us.  but  as  they  were  all  of  the  high  straight- 
backed  \ariet}'.  1  ])ri'ferred  to  remain  on  the  "  mantel 
piece"".  The  walls  were  lormed  of  sliding  screens  ot 
wliite  i)a])er.  and  there  was  a  little  galler\-  around  out- 
side. We  were  hardl}'  in  the  room  before  a  maid  a])- 
l)eare(l  on  her  knees  with  a  tra_\-  with  tea.  She  came 
into  the  room  on  her  knees.  i)usliing  the  tra\-  on  be- 
tore. 

v^he  was  followed  1)\-  another  girl,  with  a  tra}'  con- 
taining a  beautiful  laccpier  dish  of  marshmallows. 
'i"his  inn  adxertised  "  luiro])ean  food  "  and  they  brought 
us  a  dinner  of  steak,  roast  sweet  ])otatoes.  bean  salad, 
with  slices  of  ham.  and  rice  serxed  from  a  new  wooden 
tub.  We  had  our  own  bread,  and  llarr\-  made  ex- 
cellent coffee  with  a  shin_\'  new  coffee  i)ot  he  had 
bought  in  Nagasaki.  lie  had  a  can  of  ground  colTce. 
and  heated  the  water  on  the  brazier,  where  there  were 
four  little  su])i)orls  just  large  enough  to  hold  the  ketlle 


ROrXl)  r\\\i   WORLD    IX    S1TJ':\CM".  IW 

over  the  l)e(l  of  li\e  coals.      'Plic  dinner  was  serxed  on 
trays,    one    for    each    ])erson.      'These    tra}s    liad    littk' 


Icet,  a    lew   inches   lonL^'.  and    werr   ])h'iceil   im   ihe    lloor 
!    n.nnd    it    in    no   \\a\    ea>\    to   kni-el,   nr   I'athci-   sit.    U>v 


200 


ROUXl)  THE  WORLD   IX  SILEXCE 


1  could  not  kneel  in  proper  Ja])anc,se  style,  beside  that 
tray  and  eat.  The  ja])anese  maid  who  ])reside(l  over 
the  rice  tub  had  s^reat  fun  oxer  my  awkwardness  with 
ni}-  knees,  but  was  kind  enouj^ii  to  commend  mv  dex- 
terity with  the  chop  sticks.  Ai'ter  the  dinner  had  been 
removed,  the  ja])anese  showed  us  how  to  make  ])a])er 
hair  strin<^-s,  a  bunch  of  which,  in  black  and  white, 
hunt4'  trom  the  knob  on  one  side  of  mv  tinv  lookin^;'- 
i^iass.  She  took  a  ])iece  of  white  ])a])er.  the  same  as  that 
Irom  which  the  wall  screens  were  made,  —  the  folks 
called  it  ■■  i)anes  of  window  ^iass  "  —  and  twisted  it 
u])  into  a  lono-  thin  cord,  which  I  found  almost  unbreak- 
able. The  black  ones  are  ])ainted  with  black  lac(|uer 
paint,  ddien  she  did  u])  .Mar\"s  hair  in  a  butterilx' 
bow  with  only  the  cord  to  hold  it.  not  a  sin^'le  hair])in. 
We  were  now  read}"  for  bed.  and  several  more 
maidens  a])])earcd  with  tpiilts.  As  we  were  foreis^ners 
we  were  allowed  three  each.  Mar\-  had  brouj^iit  sheets 
and  ])illows  :  for  coNcrint^-  there  was  another  thick 
ja])anese  (piilt.  'idiis  made  a  \erv  comfortable  bed.  as 
the  floors  are  co\ered  with  thick  soft  mats,  or  rather 
sections  of  mattinj^",  bound  (»n  the  eds^-es.  and  htted 
tii^iitly  to}4X'ther  like  an  inlaid  door.  This  is  wh\-  one 
must  not  wear  shoes  in  the  house.  The  ja])anese  lloor 
is  really  a  bed  and  no  one  would  think  of  walking'  on 
a  bed  with  shoes  on.  Sh.oes  are  left  on  a  rack  at  the 
outside  door.  It  will  be  some  time  before  i  i^el  used 
to  lea\'in54'  ni}'  treasured  shoes  outside,  or  to  ])uttin_n' 
them  on  out  there  the  last  thin*^-  before  ,U"oin,y"  any- 
where. Then,  too,  il  lakes  a  ,!_;reat  deal  of  san^- 
Iroid  to  wash  tace  and  hands  and  clean  one's  Icetli  at 
the  sink  in  the  courtyard.      Mary  took  ])it\'  on  me,  and 


R()l"\T)  Till':   WORLD    IX   SI  I.I'.XC'I-: 


201 


wiienex'cr  it  was  ])()ssil)le,  prcx-ailed  on  tlic  inn  ])C(>])k' 
1(1  brinj^'  water  u])  to  the  room  for  me. 

Kiinianti>  has  a  l)eautiful  ])ark,  which  was  thronged 
with  i)eo])le  the  afternoon  we  were  there:  and  it  wa> 
deli^'htful  to  see  liow  frankl}'  tliey  were  eiijovin^'  theni- 
seKes.  Chihh'en  were  roHini^'  o\er  and  oxer  on  the 
grassy  hillocks,  with  fathers  and  mothers  hel])iiii4'  and 
enconrai;in<4' :  and  there  was  a  constant  ])rocession  of 
old  and  yonni^-  trotting-  back  and  forth  on  the  stei)])iii';- 
stones  in  the  brook.  —  they  all  seemed  to  think  that 
the  best  *'nn  of  all. 

A  ja])anese  ,^-entleman  came  to  call  on  iis  in  tlu' 
e\enin,<4\  lie  was  in  full  luiro])ean  arrax  .  and  it  was 
amnsing' to  see  stocking'ed  feet  in  com])any  with  broad- 
cloth and  immaculate  linen,  for  of  course  lie  had  to 
lea\e  his  shoes  at  the  door.  We  were  all  >ittini; 
around  on  the  floor  when  he  came,  and  when  he  was 
seated,  the  ceremony  of  i^reetini;'  bei^'an.  lie  made  a 
])ri)found  bow  which  we  returned.  lie  made  a  secimd 
bow  and  we.  in  turn.  ackno\\dedi.i"ed  the  courtesy  in 
Concert.  This  was  repeated  a^ain  and  a^ain.  until  the 
])ro])er  resi)ect  had  been  ])ai(l  him:  and  then,  at  la>l. 
tea  and  coiuersation  ensued. 

We  were  u])  at  ti\e  o'clock  on  .Mimda}'.  and.  alter  a 
loni.;"  ride,  readied  the  station  in  time  for  the  'i.l'i  train. 
We  chaii.Lj'ed  at  .Misumi  to  a  small  steamer,  and,  alter 
an  unexenttul  and  not  \ery  attracti\e  sail  ot  h\t'  li(iui'>. 
lande<l  at  Komenoku.  where  the  ja])anese  al  tlie  land- 
iiii^'  were  oxerheard  disciissinj4'  the  ama/.iiiLi'  amount  ot 
lu.i:;'v,"a;.^\'  we  had  with  us.  After  luncheon  al  the  inn. 
Ilarrx'  >el  to  xxdrk  to  mak'e  tlu'  hard  wo(i(K'n  •-eats  (il 
ihe  basha,  tlie  Japanese  >la,m'  t'liai'li,  conifcirtable  \xilli 
nm>,   iiillows    and    air    cu>hionx.      Tln->t-    little    \x;ii.;onv. 


202 


ROUXD  TFTE  \\"C)RTJ)   I X   SILI{XCE 


which  are  under  gT)\ernment  nianag'ement.  count  six 
as  the  regular  number  of  ])asseno"ers.  so  Harr_\-  had  to 
engage  two.  one  for  us  and  one  for  our  baggage,  so 
that  we  could  ha\e  ours  to  ourseK'es.  l\ven  then  we 
\vere  wedged  in  so  closely  that  whenexer  one  of  us 
wanted  to  change  ])osition.  all  the  rest  had  to  change 
also.  We  were  six  hours  co\ering  thirt}'  miles,  as  the 
road  was  all  on  the  u])  grade.  The  road  was  \er_v  hue, 
with  substantial  stone  bridges  over  every  little  brook. 
and  e\er}-  bank  ])ro])])ed  with  stone- work.  Immense 
defiles,  over  two  hundred  feet  (lee]j,  had  been  cut  from 
the  hills  to  make  room  for  the  road  — an  immense 
amoimt  of  labor,  as  the  work  is  all  done  ])\  hand. 
Tourists  are  \-er}'  rare  in  these  ])arts.  and  all  the  littk' 
brown  ])eo])le  along  the  way  showed  great  interest  in 
us.  Tin\-  bo\s  on  the  road  took  off  their  ca])s.  mothers 
turned  their  babies  around  to  see  the  strange  sight,  old 
])eo])le,  going  home  hand  in  hand  from  their  dav's 
work  in  the  tields,  called  out  a  cheerful  greeting.  It 
grew  dark,  and  still  we  dro\e  on  and  on.  until  at  last, 
at  ten  o'clock  we  came  to  Sendai.  and  dragged  our 
stitt  lind)s  across  a  lantern-liglited  court  to  our  rooms 
in  the  inn.  —  l)eautitul  room.s.  with  the  woiidwork  all 
hand  rubbed  to  satin  smoothness,  handsome  rugs  and 
tine  bron/es.  And  thi>  countrx'  imi  owns  a  wlute  >ilk 
hand-])ainted  mos(|uito  net  that  cost  a  hundred  dt)llar>. 
<  )ur  ])ro\ision  basket  not  ha\ing  caught  u])  with  us. 
we  had  to  ha\'e  a  real  jajjanese  dinner.  Menu:  stewed 
--ea-weed,  broiled  fish,  sliced  raw  fish,  beef,  rice,  tea 
and  s])onge  cakes,  wliich  were  deHci(>u>.  Tlie  wholi' 
of  the  hotel  slat"!  turned  out  to  see  us  oil  the  next 
morning,  after  iiur  i)ile  of  luggage  hail  been  atigmeuted 
])\     >e\eral    large    Ixixes    of   Jajjauese    cand_\     wlucdi    tlie 


Roi'xn  rwE  WORLD  IX  sii.i-:\ci'. 


21)3 


liost  had  i;"i\en  us.  'I'lie  scenery  was  l)eaiitiful  all  the 
way.  'I'he  road,  ele\ate(l  al)()\e  rice  and  barlex'  fields, 
meandered  throui^'h  one  lon^'  narrow  \alle\'  after 
another,  and  all  alon^'  the  road  were  hu^e  hushes 
co\ered  with  tiny  white  roses,  and  the  hillsides  tlanied 
with  the  crimson  ot'  the  wild  azalea  and  the  red  of  the 
Japanese  niai)le.  We  cox'cred  fort\'  miles  during"  the 
da_\-,  and  reached  here  abotit  eiiiiit  oVdock.  just  out- 
side the  city  our  (lri\'er,  who  had  been  scowliu^'  all  dax', 
demanded  twice  the  jjroper  fare,  and,  when  llarr\- 
rebuked  him,  j^ot  "  tit^iy  "'  and  unharnessed  both  the 
horses,  —  the  one  drawint.;'  oiu"  basha  and  the  one 
following"  with  the  luL^'ti'aj.ie.  lie  reckoned  without  his 
h(ist  thotii^'li  :  for  withotit  wasting"  an\-  words  ilarr\ 
called  the  nearest  i)oliceman.  and  as  it  is  a^'ainst  tlie 
law  to  ask  for  n^ore  than  the  tixed  fare,  the  drixcr 
emeri^'ed  from  his  inter\iew  with  the  arm  of  the  law 
in  chastened  mood,  harnessed  his  horses  ai;:iin.  and 
broui^iit  us  here  without  any  more  fuss.  lie  was  re- 
(|uired  to  a])])ear  at  the  Police  C'ourt  the  ne.xt  day. 
'file  ja])anese  ex'identl}'  make  their  laws  for  use  and 
IK  it  f(  ir  I  irnameiit. 

.\>  we  droxe  ti])  to  the  i^'ate,  danciii!^"  i)ai)er  lanterns 
on  the  road  turned  out  to  be  little  batira  and  her  faith 
ful  ()'|lara  San  watching-  for  u^.  'fhis  is  a  charmim.; 
--])ot.  'flu'  liou>e  i>  realK'  a  ja])anese  house,  but  they 
iiii])ro\ed  it  till  it  has  all  the  adxanta^es  ot  the  Jaiiaiu'^e 
and  f(>rciL^"ii  idea>,  and  the  garden  is  so  ])rett\. 

It  i--  woiKhTful  what  charm  a  japanoe  gardener  can 
^■i\e  to  what  would  be  with  u>  only  a  little  yai'd. 
W  here  we  >liould  >ec'  no  pos^ibili tii>  be\ond  a  tlnwei- 
beil  I  ir  two.  a  few  lree>  and  a  .L^ra^^  plot,  they  make  a 
\c-ritable  littk-    IvKmi   with   ^hi-iib>,   winding   patli^,   >toiie 


204 


ROL-XD  Til]':  WORLD    IX   SILEXCE 


lanterns,  rcjckerics,  and  ])erlia])s  a  tiny  lake.  The  air 
is  hea\-y  with  the  seent  of  orang-c  l)l()ss()ms,  and  from 
the  piazza  one  can  look  o\"er  the  tree  toi)s  and  see 
loominj^'  up  aii'ainst  the  distant  blue  of  the  sky  the 
huii'e  cone  of  the  volcanic  mountain   Ixaimondake. 

The  week  here  has  Ik-cu  \'ery  deli.yiitful.      Kai^'oshima 
is    the    most    southern    city    in    Ja])an.    and    the    lart^'est 


AKKN'.    I.ArUA    AND    ()•|IAI^\    SAX    AT    •|-ill-;    CAKDI'.X    CA' 


in  the  i)ro\ince  of  Satsuma.  It  is  in  this  city  thai  the 
beautiful  Satsuma  ware  is  made.  We  made  a  \i>it 
to  the  factory  one  daw  In  the  show  room  our  cards, 
with  the  re(|uesl  that  we  be  allowed  to  \isil  the  work- 
sho])s,  were  _L;"i\en  to  the  youn<4"  ^emleinan  wlni  aj)- 
])eared.  lie  readilx'  consented,  and  we  were  >h(iwn 
into  a  room  where  about  a  dozen  men  were  at  work, 
souie  turning"  cu])>  on   the  ])otter's   wheel,  other--,   with 


ROL'Xl)  'nilC   WORLD    l\   SIIJ'.XC!':  2lt5 

small  sharp  instruments,  making'  tlie  delicate  (ii)en- 
work  in  incense  burners..  (  )ne  man  was  making'  in- 
cense boxes  in  the  sha])e  of  little  fat  images  of  Daruma, 
the  ISuddhist  saint  who  sat  his  leg's  off.  l'])stairs 
men  were  sitting  on  the  floor,  with  their  paints  on  low- 
tables  before  them,  engaged  in  ])ainting'  cui)s  and 
])lates.  The  whole  factory  was  lig'ht  and  clean,  and  a 
fit  place  tor  the  daint}'  ware,  'idie  men  worked  com- 
fortably, with  no  clattering"  machinery,  no  rush  or  fret. 
After  seeing"  everything".  e\'en  to  the  stock  of  cream- 
white  ])ow(lere(l  clay.  I  was  g'i\-en  plenty  of  time  to 
deliberate  o\'cr  nn-  choice  of  a  sou\'enir  among'  the 
])retty  thing^s  s])rea(l  out  on  a  table  in  an  ui)])er  room 
with  a  g'loriotis  \-iew  from  its  windows  of  mountain  and 
s]:>arkling"  blue  sea. 

(Jur  waiting"  jinrickishas  then  carried  us  to  a  stairway 
at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  and  on  climbing  u])  the  long'  flig'ht 
of  stone  ste])s.  which  are  nearly  worn  out  of  all  resem- 
blance to  stc])s  b}"  the  feet  of  couritless  pilgrims,  we 
came  to  the  cemeter}'  where  Saigo.  the  leader  of  the 
Satsunia  Rebellion  in  ISIT.  lies  with  his  band  of  fol- 
lowers. Xear  the  to])  of  the  stairwa\-  there  is  a  gigan- 
tic wooden  statue  of  JTim  with  a  rabbit-net  in  his  bell 
and  his  hunting  dog'  at  his  side.  A  band  of  a  hundred 
school  bo\s  from  the  countr\',  thirl\'  miles  away,  were 
there  with  their  masters,  and  formed  into  line  to  march 
home  while  we  were  looking  at  llie  toiid)s.  Xo  doubt 
it  will  be  long' before  tliose  bo\s  forget  their  \isit  to  tlie 
hero's  grax'e. 

.Mar_\-  and  I  had  a  delightful  iim'ickisha  ride  out  lo 
Iso,  in  the  suburbs,  where  the  wealthy  ja])aue^e 
ha\c  their  summer  \illas.  and  where  the  better  cla>>  o| 
tea   hou:-es  are   to  be    found.      W f   ])a>^e(l    the   >ummt'i" 


206 


ROL'Xi)  Till'".   WORLD    i  X   SlIJiXCK 


home  of  the  ])resent  ])rince  of  Satsuma.  and  tlie  hltle 
\-illa  built  for  the  boy  prince  wiien  lie  was  born.  The 
ride  along'  the  bay  is  especially  beantiful.  v^akura-jinia 
(Cherry  Island)  with  its  mountain  being-  in  ])lain  \iew, 
and  at  a  curve  in  the  road  there  are  a  i)ictures(|ue  lean- 
ing pine  and  a  stone  lantern.  The  ])inc  is  called  the 
Loo  Choo  ])ine.  because  in  the  olden  days,  when  J^oo 
Choo  was  tributary  to  J^atsuma,  the  boats  from  I^oo 
Choo  were  not  allowed  to  go  further  up  the  bay  than 
the  ])ine. 

Another  day  we  spent  some  delightful  hours  turning 
o\-er  the  contents  of  a  silk  store.  There  were  silks  for 
weddings  and  silks  for  funerals,  and  gorgeous  silks, 
threaded  and  wrought  with  gold,  for  obi.  dainty  crepes 
for  the  lad}-"s  inside  robe  and  lor  babies'  use.  —  as 
Japanese  babies  wear  silks  and  cre])es.  and  are  (piaint 
little  miniatures  of  father  and  mother.  Passing  along 
a  street  in  the  city,  we  sto])pe(l  to  watch  a  man  making 
candles  from  wax  extracted  from  the  nuts  of  the  wax 
tree,  lie  was  sitting  on  the  lloor  with  two  large  \-es- 
sels  of  dark  brown  licpiid  before  him,  in  one  hand  he 
held  a  ])uncli  of  thin  roimd  sticks  on  which  the  ])a])er 
wicks  for  the  candles  had  already  been  fastened. 
These  he  twirled  around  in  one  of  the  \essels.  keeping 
it  fidl  by  ladling  more  wax  in  all  the  time  with  the 
other  hand.  The  wax  adliercfl  to  the  wicks  and  he 
kei)t  them  in  motion  until  the  candles  were  tliick 
enough.  Then  he  took  them  otU  to  smooth  and  sha])e 
them  by  hand. 

Across  the  street  from  the  candle  maker  was  a  man 
at  work  on  ja])anese  und)rellas,  lie  had  several  frames 
])artl\'  made.  These  mubrellas  are  all  made  of  bam- 
b(jo  and  oiled  pa])er.      At  another  ])lace  the}-  were  niak- 


KOL'XI)  Till':   WORLD    I  X   SI  l.l'.W'l". 


.'(17 


')UiX  mats  for  tloors.  Tlicy  call  llicni  talaiiii,  and  niakc 
lluMii  of  se\cral  thicknesses  of  coarse  matting'  (|inlte(l 
with  linen  thread.  'iMie  top  co\er  is  of  fnie  qrass  or 
reed.  <;ro\\n  es])ecially  for  this  sort  of  matting'.  'Phex 
are  honnd  with  coarse  black  linen  and  are  all  the  same 
size,  three  inches  thick,  three  feet  wide,  six  feet  three 
inches  htnii'.  This  is  how  the  Ja])anese  can  alwaxs  tell 
the  size  of  a  room  by  cotintin<^'  the  mats  on  the  lloor. 

A  little  further  on  was  a  silk  factorw  These  places 
are  all  o])en  in  front,  and  I  sto])i)ed  to  watch  the  thread, 
—  almost  as  delicate  as  a  cobweb.  —  beinj^'  reeled  u]). 
and  marxelled  that  it  did  not  break.  WOmen  were 
at  work  weax'inm'  silk  of  different  i;'rades.  and  ])resentl\' 
we  were  inxited  into  the  hotise  to  look  at  some  of  it  : 
but  as  we  had  no  sli])])ers  with  us  we  jjreferred  to  sit 
on  the  ])iazza  Hoor,  around  by  the  ^'ardeu,  and  the  lad\' 
of  the  house  brouii'ht  out  trays  of  tea,  sweetmeats. 
raisins  and  ])ackaj.^'es  of  silks  and  embroideries. 


208 


KOLWI)  Tin-:   WORLD    l\   SIIJ'XCI-: 


X\'ll 


I'.luff  1  lotel.  Yokohama. 


WK  overslept,  ihe  last  morning"  of  our  sta\'  in 
Kai^-oshima.  and  had  a  j^"rcat  scramble  to 
catch  the  train.  O'llara  San.  Odlide  San. 
the  jinrickisha  man.  Laura.  Ilarr}-.  Mary  and  1  were 
all  struni;'  out  aloni^'  the  road,  running'  along  as  hard 
as  we  could  ])elt,  loaded  wth  our  numerous  boxes,  bags 
and  bundles.  Fortune  faxored  us.  and  we  got  there 
in  time.  The  clock  was  just  striking  six  when  our 
train  moxed.  Dear  little  I^aura  smiled  sweetlv  and 
bravel}-  at  us  until  the  train  bore  us  out  of  sight. 

The  train  ride  of  three  hours  was  beautiful,  along  the 
cur\ing'  shore  of  the  ba_\'  and  then  inland  to  Yoshimatu. 
the  end  of  the  line,  it  began  to  rain  just  as  we  left 
the  train.  There  was  only  one  basha  at  the  station, 
and  into  that  we  crowded,  with  all  our  belongings, 
with  all  the  curtains  down.  exce])t  the  one  at  the  end. 
to  kec])  out  the  rain.  liowex'cr.  this  one  window  ga\e 
such  a  \-ista  of  beauty  that  we  coidd  not  bear  to  ha\e 
so  much  shut  out.  and  so.  rain  or  no  rain,  we  pui  u]) 
all  the  others.  At  Kakuto  we  changed  to  another 
basha.  and  had  a  ]iast\-  luncheon  while  it  was  being 
made  readw  (  )nce  on  the  way  again,  the  road  began 
to  ascend,  winding  u])  along  the  side  ot  the  mountain. 
The  distant  \iews  below  were  glorious,  and  mir^t  be 
something  wonderful  when  the  skies  are  clear  and  the 
distant  hills  free  fi'om  the  \"eil  of  mist.  The  gloom  of 
the    wet   landscape   was  brightened   by   the   scarlet   and 


ROrXI)  Till':  WORLD   IN"  SlLl'ACl'".  _'()9 

niann)!!  of  the  wild  azalea,  and  the  yoiin^-  leaves  of 
the  camphor  added  another  totich  of  red.  W  hen  we 
were  near  the  top  of  the  mountain  \ve  had  to  chans^e 
hashas  ai^ain,  ste])pini;'  from  one  to  another  across  a 
sea  of  mud.  the  rain  ])ourin_u,"  meanwhile.  Jt  was 
e\en  more  beautiful  comin_<4"  down  the  other  side  of 
the  mountain,  the  road  zigza<.;\<.iin<;'  from  one  lo\el\' 
\alle}'  to  another.  Finally  we  reached  le\el  t^round. 
and  at  the  same  time  the  rain  came  to  an  end.  At 
the  Xabe-ya  inn.  at  ilitayoshi,  they  s^ave  us  rooms 
openiu!:;-  on  a  j^allery  over  the  ri\er.  and  hastened  to 
impress  us  with  their  foreign  splendor  hv  hrin^inL;'  up 
several  chairs  and  a  round  table,  which  the}-  set  up 
with  i^reat  pride.  The  hrst  thins;-  on  the  ])rot;-ram  on 
arri\-in^-  at  a  ja])anese  inn  is  a  hot  bath.  J  took  one 
that  first  nii;-ht  at  Kumanoto.  Alarv  is  so  thous^htful 
of  me.  vShc  stays  with  me  all  the  time,  thinkint;-.  I 
su])i)ose.  that  I  mi^-ht  be  frig-htened  at  beins;-  left  alone 
in  these  inns  with  their  ])a])er  walls.  That  niiiht  she 
went  down  with  me  to  the  l^ath  rooni,  which  was  in  a 
little  house  in  the  courtyard,  and  staged  near  to  kec]) 
the  Japanese  away.  This  time,  when  the  woman  in 
charg-e  of  the  inn  asked  Alary  if  "her  dau_ql-iter  " 
wanted  a  bath.  I  said  "  Xot  to-day.  thank  you  ".  Alary 
told  her  that  "  her  daughter  *"  had  a  cold.  There  were 
se\-eral  x-ouul;-  maids  who  made  a  i^reat  many  errands 
to  the  room;  and,  as  thev  exidently  wanted  to  oet 
actpiainted.  1  showed  them  ]>ictures  in  the  mat^-a/.ine 
I  was  readinj;-  while  liarry  and  Mary  were  taking"  their 
bath.  When  the\'  came  back,  looking-  parboik'd,  we 
had  supjx-r,  —  eating;-  on  the  lloor.  as  usual,  in  sjjite  of 
our  tint'  "  foreit^n  ""  table,  as  we  all  \-oted  it  a  bother  to 
<^v\    uj)   to  it.      The  ja])ane>e    maids   then    made   u])   our 


iin  Rorxi)  Till-:  world  ix  silicxci'. 

beds,  and  hung'  around,  waiting  lo  sec  liow  my  clotlies 
came  off;  but  1  frustrated  their  ho])es  1)}"  shutting  off 
the  electric  hght. 

We  were  all  u])  earl\-  in  the  morning,  ready  for 
departure  b\'  eight  o'clock.  (  )n  going  down  to  our 
boat,  which  was  waiting  just  below  our  gallery,  we 
found  llarr\-  had  alread\-  been  at  work  on  it.  and  made 


nrk     I'.OAT    ox    TIIK    KCMACAWA    KI\'i:R 


it  a  perfect  nest  of  rugs  and  cushion-..  \\  c  were  to 
sit  on  the  lloor.  and  there  were  high  board  sides  to  kec]) 
the  water  from  drenching  us  as  we  went  tlirough  the 
ra])ids  (  )ur  baggage  was  stowed  awa_\'  and  coxered, 
to  kee])  it  from  getting  wet.  A  small  bo\-  took  hi> 
place  at  the  one  oar  at  the  stern  and  a  man  with  a 
yellow  ])arasol  and  a  ])ole  made  himself  comfortable 
in  the  bow.      We  snuggled  down   in  our  ruu's.  and  m\- 


KorXI)  TIM'.   WORLD    l\   SlU'-XCl': 


iK'\cr-ti  i-l)e-t()r(;i)ttcn  day  on  tlu"  Knma^awa  ri\cr  l)c- 
i^'an.  I"ew  tourists  take  this  tri]).  as  it  is  so  far  ofT  the 
beaten  tracks. 


( ).\'  ■nil-;  KiMACAWA  iu\'i;r 


The  <la\-  was  jJC'rlT'et .  and  tlie  setMi''r\  U>v  the  whole 
ort  \  niiU-^  one  Iohl;'  dtdi^ht,  -  ihe  rixcr  tMirxini^"  In- 
wern   hii^ii   liills,   |)i\-U\    \illa,L;"es  liere  and   there,  enlti 


1\1  ROUND  TIM'.   WORLD    I  X   SILI-lXCF. 

\ation  e\'er}-wlierc.  W'c  met  a  (^"ood  many  boats  com- 
in,^'  u]).  (Iragi^'cd  by  scores  of  men  both  in  the  water 
and  on  the  bank,  as  the  current  is  too  stron|n;  for  row- 
int^'.  ( )ur  l)oat  was  the  only  one  g'oinj:;'  down.  Slio<-)t- 
inii-  the  ra])i(Ls  was  \-ery  exciting',  a  fresh  set  ai)])earini;- 
e\'ery  httle  while.  (  )ur  l)oy  ])ulled  steadilv  at  his  oar: 
Init  the  man  sittini.^-  under  his  _\-ellow  ])arasol,   siui^'in;^ 


"^ 

' 

•-  „'_ 

\"I]-:\V   FROM   THE   SHRI.XK    IX   Tili';   C.\\"l-; 


nonchalantl}-,  made  me  indij^'nant.  because  he  let  the 
small  bo\-  do  all  the  hard  work,  just  then  a  mass  ot 
foamiui.^'  water  came  in  sii^hl  —  down  went  the  _\  el- 
low  ])arasol  and  u])  came  the  man  and  the  ])ole.  Mis 
dexterity  was  wonderful.  lie  km-w  exactly  the  rii^ht 
moment  to  ])ut  out  his  ])ole.  and  just  the  s])ot  where  it 
would  be  most  e(Tecti\e.  I  chan_y"ed  m_\-  opinion  of 
him. 


R(IUXI)  Till-.   WORLD    IX   SlLl-A'Cl*: 


:i3 


Al)(>ut  11(^111,  when  it  was  _^"ettini4■  hoi.  we  came  lo 
the  g'reat  ca\"e,  reached  b}-  chnil)ini^"  up  the  hill  from 
the  river.  It  is  hung'  with  stalactites,  and  there  is  a 
shrine  on  a  ])latform  cut  out  of  the  rock,  high  up  inside. 

'idle  boatman  was  unwilling  to  stop  long  enough  to 
])icnic  in  the  shade  on  the  bank,  so  we  had  to  eat  our 
lunch  on  the  boat.  Lighting  the  hre  in  the  charcoal 
brazier,  we  made  tea  and  toasted  sausages  as  we  floated 
along,  holding  und)rellas  over  each  other  to  keep  us 
from  melting  in  the  hot  sun.  The  whole  left  bank  of 
the  ri\er  for  a  long  way  had  been  cut  out  and  l)anked 
with  stone  for  the  new  railwav  that  was  to  be  built  : 
all  the  work  ha\ing  been  (U)ne  by  hand  ! 

'idle  end  of  the  ri\er  tri])  came  when  we  drew  near 
the  l)ank  at  Vatsushiro  at  four  o'clock.  A  crowd  oi 
jinrickisha  men  came  rushing  along  the  bank  to  meet 
us;  but  instead  of  coming  to  blows,  when  they  saw 
tliere  were  not  enough  of  us  to  go  around,  tliey  drew 
lots  among  themseKes  with  ])ieces  of  ro])e.  to  settle 
which  of  them  should  tai<e  us.  A  train  ride  of  an  hour 
finished  the  day.  bringing  us  to  Kumaiioto.  where  we 
s])ent  the  night  at  the  same  inn  in  which  we  liad 
stop])ed  on  the  wa\'  down  to  l\agoshima.  We  were 
u])  early  ne.xt  morning  and  oti'  for  Moji.  a  train  ride  of 
more  than  fi\-e  hours.  At  .Moji  we  crossed  the  strait 
to  Shimonoseki  in  a  big  steam  ferry.  Shimonosi'ki  is 
on  tile  main  island,  and  the  Sanxo  line  ot  l\aiKva\'  is 
more  iuiro])ean  than  the  l\\usho.  There  was  also  a 
change  in  the  countr\-  and  the  ])eo])le.  the  coumr\- 
being  more  densely  ])o])ulated  and  clt)sel_\-  cullixated. 
and  the  ])e<)j)lc  more  urban.  We  liad  hmcheou  in  a 
dining  car  that  would  hold  eight  at  a  ])inch.  Marrw 
who  had   been   our  cook   all   along,   was  delisjhted    with 


214  ROl'XD  THE  WORIJ)   IX   SILFA'CK 

iItc  change;  but  \vc  x-olcd  him  the  better  c()f)k.  Dur- 
ing the  afternoon  we  rode  tlirough  tlie  l)eautitul 
scenery  on  tlie  shore  of  the  Inland  Sea.  till  darkness 
fell,  blotting  out  the  lo\-ely  ])ictures.  We  were  glad 
to  leave  the  train  when  Mivajima  station  was  reached 
at  half  past  eight.  A  bo\-  from  the  ]\likado  Jlotel  was 
waiting  to  meet  us.  a  sail  of  fifteen  minutes  took  us  to 
the  island  \\  here,  as  no  jinrickishas  are  allowed  and  we 
did  not  want  to  walk  o\-er  a  mile  in  the  dark,  we  em- 
barked again.  —  this  time  in  a  row  boat.  —  and  were 
landed  on  a  beach  where  se\'eral  ja])anese  with  jjaper 
lanterns  were  waiting  to  guide  us  through  the  woods 
to  the  little  house  that  had  been  ])re])ared  for  us.  The 
two  rooms  had  foreign  furniture  and  1  was  so  glad  to 
see  a  real  bed  again.  A  laughing  little  dumpling  of  a 
maid  brought  us  tea  and  hot  water.  I  \vas  delighted 
when  1  emerged  in  the  morning  to  hud  that  our  little 
hotise  was  ])erched  on  the  bank  ol  a  i)retty  little  brook, 
siu'rounded  b\"  a  fairy-laud  ol  woods.  There  were 
more  daint\'  little  houses  near  by.  which,  with  the 
larger  hotise  where  the  meals  were  ser\ed.  made  uj) 
the  Mikado  Motel.  Art  and  Xature  combined  to  make 
the  ])lace  fascinating.  There  were  fotmtains.  tiny  lakes 
with  gold  fish,  charming  walks  along  the  seashore  or 
through  the  woods  and  tame  deer  and  doxes  that  came 
to  eat  from  otir  hands.  The  Tem])le.  which  is  a  cele- 
brated one.  is  built  on  ])iles.  and  at  high  tide  is  sur- 
rounded b\'  water.  There  are  galleries  and  bridges 
all  around  it.  and  a  most  wondertul  torii  away  out  in 
the  sea  whose  sui)i)orts  are  made  of  the  trunks  ol  two 
inunense  trees.  There  are  stone  lanterns  all  along  the 
beach,  and  llarr\-  had  them  all  lighted  u])  one  night, 
taking  u^  oui   in  a  boat  >o  that   we  could  see   from   the 


ROUXD  Tm-,   WORIJ^   IX   SILKXCK 


:i5 


water  the  effect  of  the  m}-riatl  of  Httle  twinkhng'  hg'hts. 
The  tem])le  treasure-house  has  a  i^allery  over  six  hun- 
(h'ed  feet  loug".  huns^-  with  (|uaint  old  pictures  ;  and  on 
the  liiU.  hack  of  this,  is  a  hug'e  huiUhng  called  "  the 
llall  of  a  Thousand  Mats".  This  is  reputed  to  ha\e 
been  built  from  the  wo()d  of  a  single  tree.  Its  roof  is 
su])])orted  by  pillars  that  are  covered  with  wooden 
butter  paddles,  nailed  u])  there  by  visitors  for  luck, 
and  the  ettect  is  the  strangest.  Over  in  Maple  X'allcy 
is  another  charming'  Ja])anese-foreign  hotel,  and  all 
around  are  scattered  fascinating  curio  sho]),  and  stalls 
for  the  sale  of  cakes  and  sweetmeats.  'Phev  looked  so 
good,  so  exactly  like  our  ])eppermints  and  other  fa- 
miliar dainties,  that  1  hailed  them  with  joy  and  insisted 
on  buying  a  suppl}',  in  s])ite  of  Mary's  warning,  only 
to  throw  them  awa_\'  when  1  got  out  of  sight  of  the 
stall.  I  am  sure  L  could  ne\er  learn  to  like  things 
made  of  bean  ])aste. 

I  low  sorry  1  was  when  the  time  came  for  us  to  lea\e 
the  loxelv  islan<l.  The  train  for  Kobe  was  so  crowded 
that  we  had  to  sit  wedged  in  for  eight  long  hours. 
The  route  la\'  along  the  shore  of  the  Inland  Sea,  but 
owing  to  the  crowd,  and  to  the  fact  that  1  had  to  sit 
witli  m\-  back  to  the  windows.  1  could  hardl\-  see  any- 
thing outside,  wliicli  was  disa])])ointing.  'IMie  ])eo])le 
around  me  were  \ery  interesting,  though:  —  Chinese 
merchant>  in  silken  robes  and  tasseled  (|ueues,  i\oreans 
in  bagg\'  white  trousers,  and  jai)anese  ot  both  sexes, 
old  and  \iinng.  (  )n  one  side  ot  me  were  a  young  lather 
and  mother,  with  a  >mall  ba1)\'  ot  whom  the\'  wei'e 
\er\'  ])roud  :  and  oli.  Ikiw  the\'  did  tuss  o\er  it!  (  )n 
the  otluM"  >idi.'  \\a>  a  lad\'  in  rich  dark  robes,  who 
^nuiki-d  a  >mall  >il\c'r  ])il)e  and,  at   intl'r\a]^,  ])ow(k're(l 


216  ROUXD  TIIK  WORLD  IX  SILEXCK 

her  face  with  the  aid  of  a  wee  liand-g'lass.  Xearby 
was  a  Japanese  Christian.  —  a  missionary  to  Korea. — 
on  liis  wav  to  'i\)kio  to  Conference,  takint;-  his  lively 
three-year-old  dau^'hter  alon<^'  to  visit  her  "randniother. 
lier  antics  kept  her  ])oor  patient  father  on  the  juni])  all 
the  time. 

Jt  was  nearly  midnif;"ht  before  we  reached  the  'Poki- 
washa  Inn  at  Kobe  and  i^ot  nnder  our  futons  to  dream 
of  the  daw  We  had  an  amusini^-  time  in  the  morning;' 
with  the  landlad}-.  who  knew  no  hjit^iish.  but  thoui^'ht 
she  did. 

The  milk  for  our  l)reakfast  was  br()u_q"ht  u])  in  a 
])retty  l)lue  and  white  \ase.  They  said  it  was  a  saki 
bottle.  1  admired  it  so  much  that  I  had  them  ask  the 
landlady  to  let  me  buy  it.  ,^he  re])lied  that  if  I  would 
accei)t  so  triHing"  a  thin<^"  she  would  like  to  ])resent  it 
to  me.  I  am  i^'ettin*^"  (|uite  a  collection  of  things  from 
the  inns,  it  is  a  custom  in  this  cpiaint  little  country 
to  tip  the  ])ro])rietor  of  tlie  inn  instead  of  the  serxants. 
and  if  he  is  satisfied  with  the  amount  he  returns  the 
courtesv  by  offering"  a  ])arting"  gift.  The\'  ga\e  us 
blue  and  white  towels  at  Kumanoto,  and  large  boxes 
of  ja])anese  sweets  at  Sendai.  'idle  .Mikado  Motel, 
being  foreign,  did  not  keep  Japanese  customs. 

Kobe,  being"  a  i)ort.  is  (|uite  a  large  city  :  but  instead 
of  going"  sig"ht-seeing"  we  went  to  a  ])hotogra])her"s 
where  there  was  a  hue  collection  of  beautitul  \ie\vs. 
and  trans])arencies.  After  s])euding"  a  cou])le  of  hours 
\er\-  enjovabl}'  there,  we  rode  around,  had  luncheon 
at  a  little  tea  house  on  the  hill,  and  took  an  afternoon 
train  for  Kyoto,  'idie  .X'akamura  inn  is  so  close  to  one 
of  tile  tem])les  as  to  seem  a  ])art  of  it.  It  is  sui)pose(l 
to  be  a   foreigri   hotel,  and   our   rooms   did   ha\(.'   liea\v 


ROL'N'D  Till'.  WORLD   1  X   SlIJ-A'CF. 


oUl-fasliioned  furnilure.  but  one  of  the  beds  had  no 
sprin_q's  and  the  other  was  made  up  top-side-down  with 
pillows  at  the  foot.  Kyoto  is  renowned  tor  its  tem])les. 
but  as  my  time  was  gettin*;-  short,  1  larry  ])lanned  for  us 
to  see  onlv  the  few  in  whieh  he  thoui^iit  we  would  be 
most  interested,  bei^inning-  with  the  Kitano  Tenjiri, 
where  sick  ])eople  were  rubbins^'  bronze  animals  in 
the  hope  of  being"  reliex'ed  from  their  ])ain.  W'orshi])- 
])ers  at  the  >hrine  ])u]led  \igorously  at  the  bell  rope 
and  clappd  their  hands,  to  call  the  attention  of  the  g"(jd 
before  beginning'  to  pray.  At  the  Kinkakuji  we  made 
])art  of  a  ])art\'  taken  through  the  tem])le  a])artments  by 
a  priest.  These  rooms  are  renowned  for  the  sliding 
screens  and  kakemonos  ])ainted  b\'  old  masters.  The 
Japanese  with  us  seemed  to  admire  them  \ery  much. 
After  inspecting  them  all  we  were  led  into  a  room 
where  we  were  ranged  in  a  long  n>w  on  the  tloor  and 
served  wth  the  greenest  tea  1  e\  er  saw.  This  serious 
ceremon}-  o\er,  we  three  made  our  way  through  the 
g'arden  to  the  (lolden  I'axilion,  where  again  our  shoes 
came  ott  and  worsted  slip])ers  were  donned.  This  is 
something  we  go  through  e\'ery  time  we  go  into  a 
tem])le  or  ja])anese  house  and  1  think  it  \ery  tiresome. 
We  ha\'e  a  s])ecial  bag  for  our  slip])ers  and  button 
hodk,  and  the  jinricki>ha  men  stand  on  guard  o\er  our 
>hoes  while  we  are  in  the  tem])les.  This  i)a\ilion 
i>  interesting.  In  addition  to  the  gilt  statues  ol  go(ls 
and.  goddesses  there  is  a  re\iil\ing  library  iit  >acred 
book>,  and  the  common  ])eoi)le,  at  lea>t,  think  that 
b\'  gi\ing  it  a  coin])lete  re\o]ution  an  act  of  l)iety  e(|ual 
to  reading  the  whole  collection  has  been  ])i'rfoi-med. 
It  is  tile  third  tloor  that  ga\e  the  ])a\ilion  its  name. 
It  i>  comijleteK   >jilde(l,  wall>,  ceiling  and  tloor.  and  the 


218 


ROUXD  r\]K  WORLD    I  X   SlLl-'.XCK 


ceiling  is  eit^^hteen  feet  s(|iiare  and  made  from  one  piece 
of  wood.  Tlie  Ji'old  is  nearlv  worn  off  now.  l)ut  must 
liave  been  mag'niticent  once.  There  is  a  lake  in  the 
""arden  close  by.  where  linge  car])  three  feet  loni.^' 
dis])ort  themseh'es.  The  little  islands  in  this  lake  il- 
lustrate the  art  of  the  landsca])e  i^ardener;  one  be- 
ins.i"  ill  the  shape  of  a  tortoise  with  its  head  and  le.s^'s 
all  drawn  in.  another  the  tfjrtoise  with  its  head  and 
feet  out. 

A  distant  hill  was  ])ointcd  out  as  the  "Silk  llat 
Mountain  ""  so  called  because  one  of  the  Enii)erors  or- 
dered it  co\ered  with  white  silk  one  hot  day  so  that 
he  mii^'ht  ha\e  the  ])leasure  of  looking-  at  somethini;' 
cot)l.  The  Kijomizu-dera  tem])le  is  on  a  steep  hill, 
and  the  street  that  leads  u])  to  it  is  lined  on  both  sides 
with  fascinatin,^'  sho])s  full  of  L^a}-  toys  and  earthen- 
ware. These  sho])s  are  all  o])en  in  front,  with  their 
wares  temi)tini^iy  laid  out.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  a 
stee])  stairway  t^'oes  up  to  a  two-storied  ^'ateway  in 
which  are  liideou-^  i^iant  j^'ods  ])ainted  bri^'ht  ^reen  and 
blue,  and  all  s])otted  with  ])a])er  s])it-balls.  h'ach  of 
these  s])it-l)alls  re])resent  a  wish.  The  wish  is  written 
on  a  i)iece  of  jjajjcr.  and  its  writer  chews  it  u])  and 
throws  it  at  one  of  these  gentlemen.  If  it  stick's,  the 
wi>h  will  ci  )me  true. 

The  llii^'ashi  (  h'ast  )  1  loni^'wauiji  is  a  new  teni])le 
that  is  ma,<4-nificent  with  ^'ilt  and  ])olishe(l  wood.  The 
bronze  fountains  and  lanterns  in  the  courtyard  are  \ery 
hue.  The  tem])le  itself  is  comi)osed  of  two  buildings, 
with  ])eaked  roofs  that  ha\e  the  ])ectdiarity  of  beins.'; 
double.  The\'  are  counected  by  a  co\ered  jailer}'  and 
the  lar<4-er  of  the  two  is  the  largest  buildinj^'  in  jai)an. 
W  hen   pa>sini_;'  alonj^-  the    \erandah   at   the   >ide  of  thi^ 


R(H'\"n  TIIK  WORLD   IX   SlLl-.XCK 


building'.  I  was  attracted  1)\-  a  lar^e  an]  nf  odd-li  n  ikinj^- 
dark-colored  rope,  and  on  asking'  al)out  the  ])resence 
t)f  tliis  incongruous  ol)iect.  they  tohl  it  was  ro])e  that 
liad  been  used  to  lift  the  beams  of  the  ceihn^'  into 
])osition  —  there  are  no  derricks  in  japan  —  and  was 
made  of  human  hair,  j^ix'en  l)y  tliose  wlio  wislied  to 
liehp  in  the  l)uihhnii'  of  the  teni])le.  and  wdio  l)ein^-  too 
])oor  to  ,ui\e  money.  L;a\e  tlieir  hair  instea(k 

We  i)assed  the  Mikado's  I'akice  se\"eral  times.  l)ut 
there  is  no  achnission,  and  nothinj^'  can  be  seen  al)o\'e 
tile  hiiih  outside  wall  e.\ce])t  a  jjcaked  roof  or  two 
aniim^'  the  tree  to])S.  This  plastered  outside  w;*.ll 
])ainted  ])ale  yellow  with  the  ti\e  white  lines  that 
denote  Im])erial  ])roi)ert_\-.  has  the  ])eculiarity  of  ha\in^- 
a  roof. 

I  )urin^'  our  all  da\-  ride  Irom  Kyoto  to  N'okohama  it 
rained  hard.  At  this  1  was  much  (lisa])i)ointed.  as  the 
route  la\'  o\er  the  lanious  Tokaido  or  "  luistern  Sea 
Road"'  alon^'  which,  from  the  se\enteenth  centur\- 
down,  the  l)iam\-os  or  ^reat  lords,  with  tlieir  retinues 
ha\e  C(ime  \earl\-  to  court.  The  road  is  also  lanious 
lor  ii>  >u])erl)  \iews  of  h'uji  :  but  alas,  tlie  rain  and  lo^i 
blotte<l  out  e\er\tliiiH4'.  'idiere  was  an  interesting'  i)arty 
in  the  conii)artnieiit  with  us.  two  lathers  and  mothers 
with  >mall  children  and  one  woman  alone  with  two 
~~turd\-  \ounLi'>ters.  W  hen  .Mar\-  asked  her  the  baby's 
a^e  and  >lie  replied  three.  Mary  exi)lained  thai  >he 
meant  one  \ear  and  a  hall,  as  the  japane>e  date  ai;e 
from  the  New  Near  and  all  the  little  ,L;irls  celebrate 
their  birllida\>  i  m  Marcli  :i(l  and  all  the  b'i\>  oii  .Ma\ 
.")lh  without  rec;ard  to  the  actual  dale  of  birth.  There 
were-  aKo  three  xiiun^  ladie>  wln)  --eemed  to  be  tMii(i\- 
iuL^    v;ic\]    .ither''-    C(im])an\     \-er\     much.      (  )ne,    a    \ cry 


221)  ROUXI)  Till':  WORLD   IX   SlIJvXCK 

l)eaiitiful  ^'irl.  had  a  headache,  and  the  other  two  put 
pieces  of  court  ])laster  arcjiind  lier  neck  and  forehead 
and  she  lav  down  to  rest.  1  took  stolen  looks  at  her, 
to  find  she  had  a  Ihuldhist  rosary  concealed  in  her 
hands,  and  was  tellini;'  her  beads,  and  stealini^-  an  oc- 
casional i^iance  our  \\a_\'  to  ascertain  if  we  knew  wdiat 
she  was  doing'. 

'J'he  niufi  Jdotel  is,  as  its  names  im])lies,  situated  on 
the  bluff  where  the  foreij^'u  ])oi)ulation  of  ^'ohohama 
have  their  homes.  It  is  an  old-fashioned  ])lace,  — 
just  a  collection  of  houses  thrown  into  one.  1  ha\'e  a 
"  cute  "  little  room,  uj)  under  the  ea\-es,  where  I  bump 
my  liead  on  the  ceilinii"  in  moments  of  abstraction. 
There's  a  sort  of  ba}'  window  at  one  end,  which  g'ixes 
me  a  \-iew  of  the  trees  beyond  and  a  bit  of  road.  .Most 
t)t  the  !.;"uests  are  .American,  —  Arm\-  or  .\'a\\-  men, 
en  route  to  or  from  the  1 'hili])])ines  with  their  fami- 
lies. 

.After  a  da}-  or  two  here  we  went  over  to  Tokio. 
The  Industrial  lv\])osition  beino-  o])C'n,  Mar\-  and  1 
s])ent  a  day  in  I'yeno  I 'ark.  This  is  the  lart^-est  i)ark 
in  ja])an,  and  is  famous  for  its  cherr\-  blossoms:  but 
unfortunately  it  was  ])ast  their  season.  Tlu-  collection 
of  ivor\-  carx'ini;'  in  the  h'ine  .\rts  buildini.^-  was  the 
most  wonderful  1  had  e\er  seen.  .\n  infant  catching- 
dies,  cut  trom  a  single  ])iece  of  i\-or\-  and  half  tlie  size 
of  life,  was  sim])l\-  bewitching.  There  were  old  men, 
women,  and  children,  Irom  a  few-  inches  to  a  foot  in 
heig"ht,  all  as  natural  as  life,  with  each  detail  ])erfect. 
.Xear  by  were  son-ie  beautiful  gold  lac(|uer  bo.xes  and 
tra}-s,  ai-id  1  could  use  u])  all  my  adjectix-es  oxer  the 
])orcelain  ;  then  1  lost  my  heart  o\er  cases  full  of  fasci- 
nating ja])anese  clollie>,  kin-ionos  ol   crepe  and  of  silk. 


Rorxi)  Till':  woRi.i)  i.\  siij:\ci*. 


221 


brocade  stiff  with  i^old  thread,  and  jeweled  clasps  to 
fasten  the  obi. 

l^'urther  on  A\ere  i^iass  cases  full  of  dried  hshes,  hu!:ie 
bundles  of  somethinti"  that  looked  like  brown  honey 
comb  but  was  reall}'  sea-weed,  and  delicious-lookiuL;' 
jellies,  cakes  and  sweets. 

( )utside  the  buildint;'  it  was  as  ^ay  as  i)ossible  ;  tlut- 
terin^'  flasks  and  brii^iit  ])a])er  lanterns  swunj^'  from  tlie 
trees  in  festoons,  and  c\"er}-where  were  crowds  of  <;"ail\- 
dressed  little  ])eo])le.  The  flower  i^'arden  was  lull  of 
roses.  .Near  the  f^'arden  a  ])a\'ilion  was  dex'oted  to 
the  arrant^enient  of  flowers,  an  art  which  e\ery  Japan- 
ese lady  must  coiuit  amoni^'  her  accomi)lishments. 
i'*ach  arran^'cment.  as  well  as  the  vase,  has  its  own 
special  meaninj^'.  h'or  instance,  a  spray  of  ])ine  and  one 
of  sweet  william  in  a  bamboo  vase  means  s_\d\-an  de- 
li,i4ht.  There  were  a  few  i)eo])le  sittin,^-  ou  the  floor 
in  front  of  the  flowers.  Rememberini;"  what  1  had  heard 
of  the  worship  of  flowers.  1  asked  .Mar\-  if  it  was  true 
that  the  ja])anese  \vorship])ed  flowers,  and  it  those 
])eo])le  were  ])ayinL;'  their  (kwotion  to  them.  "  (  )h,  no." 
she  said,  "■  the\'  are  onl\-  sittini^"  on  the  floor  in  i)ro]H'r 
Japanese  style,  just  as  we  would  seat  oiu"sel\es  if  we 
wanted  to  take  a  lon^"  restful  look  at  anythiui^'. 
Some  iif  the  ja])anese  occasional]}'  bow  to  the  flower 
arran,^ements,  but  that  is  oidy  to  sliow  their  a])i)recia- 
ti'Mi  nf  the  art  of  the  ])er.son  who  made  the  arran^e- 
menl.  just  as  some  a])])reciati\-e  admirer  mij^ht  bow 
his  head  in  the  presence  of  the  work-  of  a  master  ar- 
tist.'" 

W  (■  had  liffin  at  the  Seiyoken  Ibitrl.  climbed  a  Ioul; 
slairwa\-  to  a  i)]aleau  >  ni  a  hill  t<i]).  whrrt'  tliere  was  a 
fiur  \iew.  and   wound  u\>  ihe  da\    b\    lia\in!j'  sonu-  l; 1 


ROUND  'IMIlv   WORM)    1 X   SIIJ-.XCI': 


ice  cream  at  a  little  ])lace  on  the  e(l,u"e  of  the  lake  and 
ex])lorini;'  a  lot  of  little  sho))s  nearby.  1  think  it  is 
L^'reat  fun  to  ])oke  throuj^'h  the  little  shops  and  see  the 
curiotis  tiiini^s  for  sale. 

From  Tokio  we  took  a  n_\dnii"  xdsit  to  Xikko.  fixe 
hours  away  b}-  train.  The  last  half  of  the  \\a_\-  was 
throu<i'h  wild  and  beautifid  countrw  where  the  hills, 
as  in  K_\-usho.  were  coxered  with  red  azalea.  Just  1)e- 
fore  the  train  sto])])ed  we  had  a  !4iim])se  of  the  famous 
ax'cnue  ot  c\'])tomerias.  The  woods  around  Xikko  are 
majLj'nificent.  and  the  tem])les  are  beautifull}'  situated 
amon,^-  the  trees.  'iMie  swift-tlowiny-  rix'cr  is  crossed 
by  a  red  lac(|uer  bridj^'c.  onlx'  o])cned  for  royalty 
h"\"ery-(lay  ])eople  use  another  bridi^'j.  The  roof  of  the 
summer  ])alace  ot  some  of  the  lm])erial  Trincesses  is 
pointed  out  amoni;'  the  trees.  X'ear  a  ])rctt_\-  landscape 
garden  is  a  curious  black  coi)i)er  cohimn.  su])])ortcd 
b}'  tixe  shorter  ones,  with  bars  that  cross  throuj^'h  its 
centre.  This  column  is  su])])ose(l  to  a\ert  e\il  intluence. 
A  beautiful  axenue  of  cyi)toiiicrias  leads  to  a  luii^e 
.Q'ranite  torii  :  then  comes  a  tliii'ht  of  stcjjs.  crowned  1)_\- 
a  j;"ate,  throuii'h  which  we  went  in  com])an}'  with  a 
whole  troo])  of  small  l)o\-s  and  i.;irls,  bcini;-  taken 
throut^h  the  tem])le  in  charge  of  care-takers.  They 
were  "  ctUe  '"  little  things  ;  the  largest  did  not  look  more 
than  eii^iit  \ears  old.  We  sto])])ed  to  watch  them  and 
call  otit  o-hio.  —  i^ood  mornini;'.  —  to  which  tluw  re- 
s])onded.  The  ij^'dlc  throu.L^h  whicli  we  had  just  jjassed 
was  carx'cd  with  animals,  lions,  unicorns  and  strani^'c 
unknown  beasts,  and  the  court  was  surr<iunded  1)\-  a 
bri,i.;ht  red  wall.  The  buildini^s  hert'  were  onh'  stone 
houses,  but  they  had  such  (|uaint  car\inL;"s.  (  )n  one 
the  .^ables  were  car\ed   with  cle])hants:  on  the  wall  of 


RorXI)  'JMll'.   WORIJ)    l.\   SllJ'A'CI". 


_'_'3 


another  were  the  tlircc  fannnis  m()nkc\s  lioldinj;"  ])a\\s 
to  e}cs.  ears  and  lips  to  sii^'nify  tlicy  could  neither  hear, 
see  nor  sjieak  e\il.  We  climbed  another  Hight  of  steps 
and  jiassed  throui^'h  another  g'ateway  inside  which  were 
two  lions  in  the  act  of  leaping"  down.  W  ere  we  not 
l)ra\e  to  ]:)ass  such  a  barrier?  Iiowe\-er.  these  lions 
were  only  stone.  The  small  children,  bavin""  left  a 
neat  row  of  wee  straw  sandals  at  the  stej^s.  were  now 
i^oini;'  tbrougii  the  temi)le  in  this  court,  and  we  followed 
them.  1  carried  away  a  i^'eneral  impression  of  ba\"in_<;- 
seen  a  wonderful  blaze  of  t^'old  and  color,  hideous  idols, 
and  an  immense  drafi'ou  crawlini;"  o\er  the  ceiling", 
.Another  tlifjht  of  stei)s,  and  we  came  to  a  beautiful 
•^-ateway  with  carxed  i)illars.  'Jdie  ])anels  on  the  inner 
side  were  covered  with  extremel}-  ^'racefid  ])ainiini.is 
ot  con\'entionali/.e(l  peonies:  this  <4'atewa\-  has  an 
ui)])er  story,  and  all  around  this  are  carx'cd  tillers" 
heads  with  real  wire  whiskers.  The  balcon\'  railint;' 
re])resents  children  at  ])lay,  and  under  the  roof  are  ^.^ilt 
drai.;"ons  with  i^apiuL;'  red  mouths.  To  crown  all.  a 
lite-like  demon  looks  down  on  one  from  the  \-cr\'  toj). 
.\nother  court,  and  then  comes  the  Chinese  .^ate. 
which  leads  to  the  main  shrine,  and  which  with  its 
inlaid  wood  and  the  t^'olden  trellis  of  its  fence  is  a  ht 
settinj^-  to  the  carx'in;:;'  and  ,L;"old  of  tlie  shrine.  This  is 
a  lari:;e  room,  witli  smaller  ones  at  eacli  end.  The 
walls  and  ceiling'  are  coxered  with  birds  and  llowers. 
r>ack  ot  this  is  the  chai)el.  which  is  n<it  open  to  \isi^ 
tors. 

Out  ot  the  o])])osUe  side  of  the  courtwird.  on  our 
w.iv  to  b-\asu's  touib.  we  ])as^ed  through  a  diior  (ixer 
which  i^  tlu'  oll(.Mi  rt'])r(  iduced  ])aintin;^'  ii|  a  >leepiuL^' 
cat  ;  on   the  other  <ide  i^  a   moss-t-(  i\ xTt'd   stoui'  uallerx 


224  ROL'XJ)  Till-:   WORLD    I  X   SILI%XC1<: 

from  which  a  long'  stone  stairway,  s^uardcd  \)y  a  wall, 
goes  up  through  the  woods  to  the  tomb  ui:)on  the  hill. 
It  was  so  still  and  peaceful  that  a  spell  fell  u])on  me. 
and  I  sat  down  on  the  ste])s  of  the  little  cha])el  to 
dream.  Just  on  the  other  side  of  me.  guarded  1)_\- 
bronze  gates,  a  mossy  stone  wall  surrounded  the  pago- 
da-shaped tomb. 

( )n  the  way  back  to  'J'okio  a  _\'«)ung  fellow  countr}-- 
man  who  had  joined  us  entertained  me  with  a  most 
diverting  history  of  his  ex])eriences  at  a  Japanese  inn. 
They  asked  hiiu  if  he  wanted  a  hot  bath,  and  when  he 
said  "  }-es  "'  conducted  him  to  the  bath-room  instruct- 
ing him  on  no  account  to  soap  himself  until  he  came 
out  of  the  water.  Jle  said  he  had  just  left  the  water 
when  the  door  ()])ened  and  a  woman  came  in,  who 
proceeded  to  dixest  herself  of  her  kimoncj  and  go  down 
into  the  water  in  calm  disregard  of  the  startled  boy, 
who  tied  in  haste  and  consternation. 

( )n  Saturda}'.  Mar}-  and  1  were  out  sight-seeing. 
Tokio  streets  are  not  ])retty.  but  they  are  \-ery  interest- 
ing. The  Jai)anese  are  so  neat  that  their  little  houses 
alwa\s  look  inxdting.  ()ne  rareh'  sees  a  dirt\-  child, 
and,  e\ery wdiere  we  went,  the  women  were  washing,  or 
tlie  washing  was  out  to  dry.  Hut  you  would  not  know 
at  first  that  it  was  washing:  they  ri])  up  their  kimonos, 
for  the\-  are  only  run  together  with  long  stitches, 
wash  the  ])ieces,  and  stretch  them  out  on  a  thin  board, 
and  set  the  boards  u])  against  the  house.  And  the_\' 
are  fore\-er  watering  the  streets,  —  with  a  i)ail  of 
water  and  a  di])])er. 

We  rode  around  the  wide  double  moat  that  sur- 
rounds the  lmi)erial  I'alace.  The  green  bank  on  the 
other  side  is  dotted   with   pines  and  to])])cd  by  a  stone 


ROLXI)   'Pill".   WORLD    1\   Sll.l'.XCI': 


wall.  All  thai  (nie  can  sec  back  nf  thai  is  a  cmujiIc  "i 
hii^'h-liitclu'd  root's  anions;"  clustering-  tree  to])>. 

Shiha  Park  in  no  way  compares  with  Xikko  in  nat- 
ural beauties,  but  the  temples  are  said  to  be  hner,  and 
they  really  are  more  wonderful  in  carxini;-  and  color, 
the  Incites  beinj:;-  a  mass  of  carxiui^'  on  a  lary-er  scale  than 
the  car\in^'  at  Xikko.  The  corridor  leading'  to  the 
sanctum  was  where  the  i^'reat  lords  rani^ed  ihemseKes 
to  wait  while  their  master,  the  v^honun.  ])enetrated 
alone  the  Holy  of  Holies  to  worshij)  the  sjjirils  of  his 
ancestors.  We  were  allowed  to  enter  the  sanctum, 
with  its  _i;'ilt  walls  and  numbers  of  red  huMjuer  tables 
at  which  the  ])riests  sat.  There  are  rows  and  riiws  of 
bron/.e  lanterns  in  the  court.  The  tombs  of  the  Sho- 
i^'uns  are  on  the  hill  behind. 

Another  afternoon  we  started  directly  after  luncheon, 
with  two  runners  f(»r  each  jinrickisha,  for  the  Iris  gar- 
dens, at  Horikiri.  The  wa\'  la\'  throuj^ii  the  .\lukii- 
jima.  where  a  beautiful  axenue  of  cherrx'  trees  lines  tlu' 
ri\er  bank.  Horikiri  used  to  be  the  old  execution 
Liroimd.  and  on  account  of  so  much  blood  ha\in,i^'  Ijchmi 
spilled  there  the\'  sa\'  the  Irises  ^tow  belter  and  fmei" 
than  in  an\-  oilu'r  >i)ol.  It  was  a  little  earl\-  in  ihe 
season  for  the  tlowers.  but  there  were  eiiou.^h  oi  the 
--tateh'  beautii'--  o])en  to  ^i\e  lue  an  idea  how  beaiuilul 
the  f'n'ld  mu--l  be  when  in  its  i;lory.  We  had  tea  in 
oiu'  of  the  numerous  little  >uinmer  hini^r'-  belore  >tart- 
iuL:'  on  the  return  jounuw  .  All  tlu'  wax.  jieoplr  were 
out  in  holidax'  altire,  and  -ucdi  a  number  oi  baliie- ! 
i-Aer\-  old  man  ami  almost  cwi-i-y  child  had  ;i  bab\ 
^traiiiicd  to  hi^  bacds".  <  )nc  ..hi  nian  had  a  ll^w  rr- 
trimmcd  hal  vccnnnL;l\  dan,L;linL;  from  lii-^  vh'iuldcr^. 
When     1    -ot    tiearer    il    re-oKi-d    itself    into    tli>'    lu-ad- 


226  ROUND  THE  WORLD   IX  SILI-:XCE 

gear  of  a  sleeping'  child.  You  cannot  imagine  how 
funny  it  is  to  see  the  children  in  their  kimonos,  with 
an  English  i)inafore,  and  a  flower-trimmed  straw  hat 
on  top.  I  think  the  children  are  spoiled  by  being  car- 
ried when  they  are  so  big  and  sturdy.  To  my  mind  the 
bright  ])retty  little  girls  are  the  most  attracti\-e  sight 
in  japan.  1  wish  we  could  import  jinrickishas  and  the 
jinrickisha  men.  the  former  are  so  comfortable  and  con- 
\enient.  and  the  men  are  so  intelligent,  helpful,  careful 
and  honest. 

I  wanted  to  visit  the  School  for  the  Deaf  before  lea\- 
ing  Tokio.  so  Harry  sent  a  note  to  one  of  the  Secre- 
taries of  the  I'.  S.  Legation,  asking  him  to  get  us  a 
permit  to  visit  the  School.  We  had  to  lea\'e  Tokio 
on  Monda}'  afternoon,  and  when  Monday  morning's 
mail  brought  a  note  from  him  in  which  he  deeply  re- 
gretted being  unable  to  get  the  desired  permit,  as  the 
-Minister  of   Education    was   out   of   town.    Harry   said 

Xe\"er  mind  ;  we  will  go,  and  I  will  see  what  ]  can 
do  with  the  aid  (*f  our  \isiting  cards  "".  h"or  the  sake 
of  additional  s])eed  we  each  had  two  runners  for  our 
jinrickishas,  and  even  then  were  beginning  to  think  the 
ride  was  \-ery  long,  when  at  last  our  men  turned  int(»  a 
gate  in  a  high  board  fence,  and  stop])ed  at  the  door  of  a 
large  frame  building.  The  doors  being  wide  open,  we 
walked  in.  and.  as  good  fortune  would  hax'c  it.  the 
gentleman  walking  along  the  hall,  to  whom  Harry 
s])oke,  ]>resenting  our  cards,  turned  out  to  be  the 
Principal  himself.  He  was  most  cordial,  and  not  only 
consented  to  our  \-isiting  the  school,  but  went  through 
it  with  us,  introducing  us  in  each  class-room,  where  I 
tried,  but  unsuccessfulU'.  to  talk  to  the  mutes.  I'inally 
we    were    taken    to   the    chai)el.    and    when    the    school 


ROL'XD  TlIK  WORLD   1\   SlLl'.XCl-.  Ill 

assembled  there  the  I'riiicipal  wrote  a  loni^'  adch'ess 
in  tea-chest  characters  on  the  black]:)oar(l.  Afterwards 
he  took  us  to  the  Art  Department,  where  a  miml)er  of 
hoys  were  at  work  on  water-color  desii^ns.  lie  had 
one  of  them  paint  several  fans,  which  he  ,^a\c  me,  to- 
gether with  some  flower  studies. 

-Mary  and  I  returned  to  the  lUutY  Hotel  on  Monday 
e\ening\  and  the  faithful  tailor,  accordin"-  to  his  prom- 
ise to  hrino-  home  my  thiuijs  early  on  Tuesday  morn- 
ing'. l)r(niu,"ht  them  before  six  o'clock,  and  stood  out- 
side my  door  until  1  o])ened  it  and  found  him  there. 

ilarry  came  on  from  Tokio  this  mornins^",  Wednes- 
day, to  see  that  1  and  all  mv  bat^'^age  i^ot  safely  on  the 
llonj:^"  Koni;-  Maru.  I  have  ])asted  steamshi]:)  labels 
on  m_\-  trunks  for  the  last  time,  and  my  last  da}'  in 
ja])an  has  dawned  bri<^ht  and  beautiful. 


ROL'XI)  'nWi   WORLD    IX   SlLl'.XCl': 


XX'III 

( )ii   Hoard  ilic   llon;^"  Koni^-  Maru. 

IAAI  be<4innin«^-  to  feci  as  if  1  liad  always  l)cen  on 
lliis  l)oat,  and  all  other  e\ents  in  my  life  were  but  a 
series  of  dreams.  Jt  is  ni\-  first  loni^'  \o\ati'e  on  a 
small  steamer.  The  Tacitic.  which  1  liad  always  imai;- 
ined  as  calm  as  any  tropical  lake,  has  been  as  titrbulent 
as  the  Atlantic:  and  one  feels  the  motion  so  much  more 
on  a  small  boat.  We  \\ere  hardl}-  well  otitside  Yoko- 
hama Ha}-  before  a  wa\e  washed  across  tlie  saloon 
com])anion-wa}'.  and  otir  ])orthole  had  to  be  closed. 
There  ha\e  been  a  few  bright  warm  days  when  the  sea 
was  smooth,  when  we  cotdd  nuwe  around  and  ex'cn 
ha\e  deck  L^ames.  ( )ne  of  these  was  Antipodes  Daw 
when  the  shij)  crossed  the  line.  .A  l)is4'  canvas  swim- 
ming- tank  had  been  ])ut  tip  on  the  lower  deck  for  the 
acpiatic  s])orts,  and  a  few  of  the  gentlemen  did 
■"stunts""  for  otir  amusement;  for  further  celebrati(.)n. 
there  was  a  ball  in  the  e\'enin£;'. 

We  anchored  oiT  I  loncjltihi  abotit  noon,  one  gdorions 
day.  ten  days  after  leaN-in,^-  ^'okohama.  After  waiting- 
for  the  I  lealth  (  )fficer  to  come  out  to  the  shi]).  w-e  \vere 
all  sent  into  the  saloon,  and  as  the  ])asseng-er  list  was 
read  we  had  to  \\-alk  tij).  one  by  one.  and  get  a  ticket, 
without  which,  we  were  told,  we  would  not  be  allowed 
1(1  come  on  board  again.  Luncheon  was  in  jjrogress 
when  the  shi])  came  u])  to  the  wharf,  but  we  were-  all 
rL-ad\-  to  go  off  almost  as  soon  as  the  stairwa\-  had 
been  let  down.      The  ti\e  of  us  were  soon  wedged  intu 


ROL'XI)  'IMIl'".   WORI.I)    l.\   SIl.l'.XCl': 


_'>') 


a  surrey  and  ott  to  see  all  we  eciuld  before  our  ship 
sailed  again  at  seven  o'elock. 

Ilonolulu's  business  streets  look  just  like  those  in 
any  eastern  town  of  the  I'nited  States,  but  the  resi- 
dence part  is  a  bit  of  Southern  California  with  its 
])rett\'  bungalows  in  their  gardens  of  tropical  luxuri- 
ance. The  road  tij)  to  the  I'ttnch  P>owl.  an  extinct 
\olcauo.  was  wild  and  lovel_\',  and  the  \iew  from  there 
glorious,  though  we  saw  it  throtigh  a  smart  shower, 
with  the  stm  shining  gaily  all  the  time.  We  hurried 
ou  to  the  A\'aikiki  Seaside  Hotel  to  watch  the  bathers 
and  nati\es  riding  the  surf  on  planks,  'i'here  we  had 
some  tea.  and  hastened  awa_\'  again,  through  the  city, 
as  fast  as  i)tir  horse  could  go.  getting  glim])ses  of  the 
Koval  I'alace  and  the  home  of  the  Princesses,  and  of 
the  grotmds  of  the  (  )ld  l'eo])!e's  Home.  'Jdiere  tlie 
driver  gathered  tis  glorious  waxen  magnolias,  gua\as, 
and  bananas,  then  hurried  tis  on  for  a  ])eep  at  the 
Aloana  and  l\o\al  Hawaiian  Hotels,  and  finalK'  raced 
us  off  to  the  ])ier,  where  a  long  row  of  natixe  women, 
with  garlands  of  flowers  around  their  necks,  sat  on  the 
tloor,  selling  flowers.  'iMie  clock  was  just  about  l<i 
>trike  >e\en.  —  we  were  saxed.  After  all.  the  steamer 
did  not  lea\e  until  nine  o'clock:  but  we  did  not  venture 
to  go  off  again,  not  wishing  to  risk  getting  left,  as  we 
knew  e\er\-  berth  in  all  the  steamers  for  a  month 
ahead  had  been  engaged  and  oue  of  the  otVicers  told 
me  thai  there  were  four  hundred  pas>engers  lell  in 
Hoiiululu.  waiting  for  a  chance  to  go  ()U. 

All  the  slrwards  in  thi^  ship  art'  Chinese.  My  tabli- 
■-Irward  i>  a  tonthle^s  old  felliiw  with  a  long  (|ueue 
whic-li  he  WH'ars  tucked  into  the  pockc-t  <il  tin.'  bhu' 
lim-n    ]>inafore    that    co\x-r>    him    down    \i>    the    ani<les. 


23(1  ROUXD  TWll  WORLD   IX   SILEXCE 

ile  lias  constituted  himself  a  committee  of  one  to  look 
after  me,  and  embarrasses  me  considerably  by  his 
attentions. 

'J'he  ever  thoughtful  ilarry  and  Mary  left  a  big 
bundle  of  beautiful  cards  for  me.  <^ne  for  each  day  of 
the  voyage,  so  I  am  transported  back  to  japan  e\ery 
morning. 

().()(»  o'clock  Thursday  e\-ening. 

The  <!1(M)  miles  between  Honolulu  and  San  Francisc<T 
are  now  drawing  to  an  end.  and  though  no  land  has 
been  sighted  yet,  everything  is  ready  for  landing.  Our 
trunks  ha\-e  all  been  taken  away  from  us  and  all  the 
baggage  is  ]:)iled  up  read}-  to  be  carried  otf.  We  are 
tingling  with  excitement. 

Half  i)ast  eight.  —  There's  a  light  on  the  horizon 
and  the}-  tell  mc  we  have  been  telegraphed,  and  are 
only  t\venty-ti\-e  miles  from  San  PTancisco.  We  sailed 
from  Xew  N'ork  on  a  l.'ith  and  today  is  the  l-'!th  of  the 
month,  but  of  course  the}-  will  not  allow  us  to  land 
before  morning. 

I\le\-en    o'clock  —  A    ])ilot    has   been   taken    on.   and 

lights   are   flashing  all   along  the   shore.     The   wind   is 

Ireezing  cold  ".      It  does  not  seem  true  that  it  is  reallv 

blowing   from    ni}-   nati\-e   land,   and   that   soon    1    shall 

see  vou  all  once  more. 


Books  of  Peculiar  Interest 


••SI-(;(;ESTI0X.    its    law    and    application,"  or  "Thr 
Principle  aiul  Practia- of  Psycho-Therapeutics."' 
]!\   Charles  F.  WinbiKfler.  Ph.  iM. 

52.00  11, ■! 

"CHRISTIAN  SCIENCE  AND  KINDRED  SUBJECTS:  THKIR 
FACTS  AND  FALLACIES." 
Bv  Charles  F.  Winbijfler.  Ph.  M. 

?1.00  iiel 

"A    PSYCHIC  AUTOBIOGRAPHY." 

By  Amanda   T.  Jones,   author  of  "Ulah,"  "At lantis."  etc..  with 
introduction  bv  James  H.  Hyslop,  Ph.  D..  LL.  D. 

51.50  net 

"THE  BLACK  TRAIL." 

By   Edith   Macomber    Hall.    M.   S.   (',.         A     handsome    Rift-biHik 
of  thrillinR  detective  stories. 

5LlW  net 

"(;RAPH0L0(;Y:  THE  BRAIN   BEHIND  THE  PEN."     U-ssons 
in  (iraphoIoRy.     Illustrated. 
By  Edith  Macomber  Hall,  M.  S.  C. 

Paper,  5L50  net 

"THE  STRAN(;E  STORY  OF  AHRINIZMAN." 

Bv  A.  Silvani.     With  two  illustrations  bv  the  author. 

51.00 

"FOUR    EPOCHS    OF    LIFE."      A    daring,    yet    delicate  b(«ik   on 
Se.xu.al  Purity. 
By  E.  Hamilton-Muncie,  M.  I).,  Ph.  M. 

51. .=^0  net 

"SIMPLE  RE.MEDIES  FOR  PLAIN  PEOPLE." 
i:y  Eli  (;.  J<mes,  .M.  D. 

51. .-0  net 

"ROUND  THE  WORLD  IN  SILENCE." 

I!v  .-\nn.i belle  Kent,  uith  >i.\tv  h.'ilf-tone  illustrations. 

51.50 

"REMINISCENCES  OF  AN   .\R.MY  NURSE." 

By  .Adelaide  W.  Smith,  with  forty-five  half-tone  illust  rat  ion>. 


G REAVES  PU  BLISH  IN(;  CO. 

1.^4  NASSAU  S  TRKK  r,  -   NK.W  YORK  Cll  ^' 


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